srgunz

On my 240Z we put the rear studs in front and some longer Nismo studs in rear. The knurl must have been the same front and rear. It was quite a number of years ago I did this. I don't recall any problems.

Correct! Plus they were used on many club Z racers of the day. Not just BRE. Now I remember, they were called the LeMans wheel. Same company made them.

Those should fit just fine. Just different style. Yours are a copy of the 13" wheel they used on the Datsun 510's for racing back in the day. See the wheels on Rons car and you will see the correct style. Not many people left alive that remember the BRE Z wheel. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=15535

Unfortunately those wheels are not correct for the race Z cars. The wheels used on the BRE cars and Ron Carters replica are a different design. They did however make a skinny street wheel for the z that was a libra design.

Sounds alot like mine did. Was a very bad (loose) timing chain.

Based on my experiance with your carbs try those 180 airs first and drive it with the mains you have installed. Next pull the 160 mains and go to the next smaller (150). Drive again. Repeat with the 145 main. Repeat with the 140 main. Let us know. I think you will be going in the right direction.

I think i would buy the ones with the longer studs. Some send the studs along with the spacer. Just use the spacer and set the studs aside. If they come with the studs installed, pound them out and install spacer. Solved. I did buy some spacers only off ebay for my own. Same as you I had longer studs. They were fine for the rear but the centers had to be machined larger for the front hubs.

20 years ago when I still autocrossed, I wanted the frame rails reinforced fron the core support to the back end. Much like the Bad Dog rail set up. Nobody would do it for me because they said it was illegal to modify the factory 'crush zone'. They all were afraied to take a chance and do it.

OK. I will say it. Stop now and look for a better starting point. You will need several thousands $.

Just to let you know there are two styles of acorn nuts. The standard type that the factory steel wheels came with and the Bulge type. The Konig Rewinds I have take the Bulge style. I would call Rota to find out what to use.

Yep. I have 3 copies of that issue. A great collectors item. I look for that one at all swap meets. Looking for the one in mint condition.

Get ahold of pertronix tech help online or call. The magnetic wheels are known to go bad. They may send you a new one. Also check for shaft play and make sure the wheel is not hitting the pick-up coil. Also the wheel and the pick-up have to be kept clean.

Well when it starts to missfire you can see the tach jump around. That tells me ignition. IMO. Photos of coil, inside of dist. cap, inside of distributer, wire from coil to cap, points, condenser, etc will all help.

Look like 19 or 20 inch to me. Look not for me. Waaay too big.

Finger tight?? Won't the studs pull out when attempting to remove the nuts to remove the head?

Use this one. Its a direct replacement. I use it myself. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=85

Try here. http://jlbmotorsports.com/rims/konig-list.html#Bbomb

What he said!!! Also is this an early 260Z? Nowdays you cannot tell with bumpers being switched etc. What ignition are you using?

When I was in the AF we did use the Dow Corning 4 on our F4's. Being in England wet aircraft was the norm. lol. Also, you can buy conductive type connector lube as well. You want to be careful using it on multi-pin connectors though.

I cannot get at my 240Z until spring to measure my front hubs. Does anybody know the center bore size needed to fit a wheel spacer on to the front hubs? I have read others saying 64.1, 66.1, 67.1 and 73.1mm. I assume it is one of these? I want to search for a pair hub centric spacers for the front once I get the correct bore size. Thanks.

Upon reading further, I see where he says he has recieved an order to build one aluminun 240Z for the Datsun heritage museum in California.

These are old school 14 inch Minilites with 205/60-14 tires.

This may be the Z you saw also.

First of all I do run the factory installed return line for my mikunis. Note this line is smaller than the feed line so it is restricted in that respect. I run a pump rated 4-5psi and installed a FPR. It ran terrible. I finally removed the requlator and it was perfect. I have measured the psi at each carb and it is just a tad less than 3.5psi. So even with the 4-5psi pump, it actually measures much less than that at the carbs. These were my findings. I do not run any insulation on my fuel lines. I do have the inspection lids louvered as that is my only ventilation from the engine compartment.

I saw this custom manifold f/s and thought I would pass along. http://racine.craigslist.org/pts/1553445549.html