Chickenman

Toe Out is an old Autocrosser trick and yes it will lead to wandering on the street. Some tires will " Tramline" more than others. Toe Out can be wicked bad in the Rain. Fact is, Toe out is seldom needed in Autocross. It's a crutch to get the front end to turn in, when other solutions are available. I've Road Raced, Autocrossed and Hill-Climbed for many, many years. Mostly with Big HP RWD cars. Have NEVER needed to use Toe Out to get the front end to bite on Turn In or during any other phase of cornering.. And I like a nose that turns in very sharply. Most people run too much front spring and anti-roll bar in Autocross. And not enough rear brake. A good Autocross car should be wickedly unstable at Road Racing and Hillclimbs. Totally different setups. Only exception is FWD cars... they may need Toe Out in Autocross. But those are horrible things any way!! LOL.

My 10.3 to 1 CR 280Z has a 280ZX starter and man it spins the motor over fast. Great starters.

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That's really old and outdated information from the original Bowling an Grippo software and early boards. MSExtra software, is totally different. That's one of the big problems with MS. Too many versions of Hardware, cam be built many different ways and Library of information is very scattered and often misleading to the neophyte.

OP Do yourself a favor and go with Hi-Z injectors or Low-Z injectors with the factory resistor packs. The MS PW current limiting has some big issues. Doesn't work a large majority of the time with ANY of the recommended settings.

I wouldn't cheap out on Valves. Bad place to try and save money. Cheap valves can drop a valve head = $$$$ Edit: SI Valves are good, Ferrera are excellent. Manley used to make excellent SS valves for Nissan. They may still make them, but not listed in current catalogs. If you can find NOS Nissan valves, they are very good quality as well. Edited : Sorry about the SI Valve info. It was SuperTech that I was thinking of. Very popular in Audi/VW Turbo engines

I could have put it out the right side I guess. But somehow I think that would have only made me deaf in the right ear. Mid 70's. No Earplugs ( Cotton Wool ) and no DB limits. We finally got some DB limits around 1978. 110 DB at 100 feet... LOL. I was blowing 112 DB at 9,200 RPM with the side exit. Went to rear exit and got it down to 108 DB with a spiral core muffler. Sex, Rock and Roll and Loud race cars... Yeah Baby!!!

Asbestos is still allowed ( In smaller percentages ) in Brake Pads, Brake shoes and Clutch discs. You can get Pads ( Ceramic, Carbon ) and shoes ( Carbon ) that are asbestos free. Most brake shoes in North America are going to have some asbestos. You have to buy a Premium style, such as Carbo Tech to get asbestos free. Get documentation from the manufacturer on if the Pad or Shoe contains any asbestos. You can buy new clutches that are asbestos free, such as Feramic and Puck style. Feramic ( South Bend ) is fine for the street. https://www.asbestos.net/exposure/products/automotive/clutches/ Check with Australian customs to find out exactly what the regulations are. See if reduced amounts are allowable or if there is exemptions for Pads, shoes and clutches. There shouldn't be asbestos in any other part of the car. Only other thing I can think of that may contain asbestos is a Catalytic converter heat shield. I don't recall if that was an asbestos sandwich construction, but it should be easy to check. That can easily be remedied with a Stainless Steel shield if a Cat is still required by Australian laws.

I have an F54 with Flat-tops and an N47, slightly shaved. CR is in the 10.3 to 10.5 range. With the stock camshaft the engine was very prone to detonation and was hard to run on anything but 93 or 94 Octane. Timing at 32 degrees. Car has headers, 60mm TWM Throttle body and 2.5" exhaust.. After engine ate itself on a trip down to Cali, I had a new one built in Portland. Same specs only this one had a Schneider 280 cam. That really woke the engine up and it will happily pull past 7,000 RPM ( Head was completely rebuilt as well with new springs ). Stock cam ran out of breathe around 5,800 rpm. Can now bark tires in 3rd gear and it is so much more fun to drive now. Has that lovely 6 cylinder " Big Cam " Lope at idle ( 1,000 RPM ). You're giving away an easy 30HP by running the stock cam. I can now comfortably run 33 -34 degrees of timing on 91 Octane gas. I do get some audible pinging between 4,500 and 5,500 RPM on 91, but that is a slight lean spot in my fueling. Really hot days it likes 94 Octane better though. High CR ( over 9.5 ) and a stock cam is a waste of time on Pump gas. You can get away with 100 Octane fuel, but the question is... why? Unless it is a temporary thing there is no point. You won't make any more power than a 9.0 - 9.5 CR engine ( Stock camshaft is the limiting factor ) and you are just throwing money down the drain buying 100 Octane fuel.

Measured from the very bottom of the strut, where the steering arm bolts on. These are 280Z front struts. Strut overall length is 14 5/8" after cutting ( not including gland nut ) . Spring perch is 8 1/2" from the very bottom of strut. Shocks are KONI Sport 8641-1142 . Toyota MR2 rears

^ Sorry been a bit hectic the last couple of Daze. I'll get them measured for you by to morrow morning.

I prefer grounding to the head or block far away from starter or coils ( If COP or CNP ) . Starter is a high EMI transmitter. I don't like any grounds near it. I've also read that you can get eddy currents near the starter ground when cranking. Those can induce impedance in the ground wires.

Nope. On exhaust/ Intake stroke you have valve overlap at TDC. Even on stock Cams.

Just got these built up ( finally ) for my 280z. TT3 DIY coil over kit with Eibach 250 lb/in springs. Koni Sport MR2 dampers. And some other bits and bobs in boxes etc:

No, HP and Torques curves cross at 5250, but Max Torque is usually well ahead of Max HP

PM sent...

From helping out some members here, I can tell you right now that you can't just Copy and Paste MS Tunes. Every engine is different and it seems every MS build is different. You really do have to start from scratch with the Default Tune for the Firmware version installed on your ECU. The ability to build MS with so many variations and build Options is one of it's greatest strengths. It's alo one of it's greatest weaknesses. Compared to retail boxes like HalTech, AEM, Link, Adaptonics etc...MS just has too many variables in the hardware builds and build quality to make any " Standard " tunes. Every Home built DIY box seems to be different . Used boxes are the worst, because you are relying on the building skills of someone who may not have a clue on how to build electronic components. And you may not be sure of what hardware is inside. It's fun as a DIY science project. But trying to sort out a Tune can be very steep learning curve. It can be done, but you can't take shortcuts. . Build a Tune from scratch... copying tunes from the Internet doesn't usually end well.

Can you post up your .msq so we can have a look at it? At least by using the dropping resistors you are halfway ahead of the game. Megasquirt and Tuner Studio PW Current limiting seems to be hit and miss from MS forum questions and articles. . There was a discussion on Guild Of EFI tuners the other day about injector drivers, and how different ECU manufacturers handle PW current limiting. So me are really good... others Meh.

We Road Raced with stock Nissan NA pumps for years back in the mid 70's. Before the Turbo pumps ever existed. More than enough pressure and volume even when used with oil coolers. Sometimes we'd use a small washer on the inside of the cap nut to shim the Bypass springs a little. That was the go to Wet Sump set up back then and it worked very well. The Nissan Competition bypass springs were usually too stiff. One competition and one stock spring worked well as JMortensen has already mentioned. The old rule of 10 lbs per 1,000 RPM ( 20 lbs minimum at idle ) with Hot oil still holds true today. Anything over that is just wasting HP and putting more stress on the drive gears.

I did that on my race Datsun 1200. I'm now partially deaf in left ear...

Used to race 240Z's back in the late 70's. Fully gutted but never really had any exhaust fume issues. I think your number one problem is your exhaust exiting under the car. Extend it all the way to the rear. That helps a lot. Make sure you extend it a good distance past the rear of the car . About 6" to 8" past the rear valance is good. There is a low pressure area right under the rear Valance that will suck in fumes if you cut the T/Pipe off too short. Never had to cut any holes in rear T'gate glass or any where else. No one else did either. Not saying that cutting holes in the rear Lexan won't work. Just that we never had to do it. What we did do however is run a drivers air duct blowing air from the A pillar onto the driver. Drivers window was open ( removed ) and so was passenger side. Install the W/Strip that seals the Hatch if you've removed it. That is one W/strip that you must keep in place. On the inside of the Hatch is a large rectangular hole that is covered by a trim panel. 90% of cabin fumes are sucked up from the T/Gate latch opening, then circulates through the T'gate and get sucked into the Cabin of the car. Seal this rectangular section off with a thin sheet of plastic or aluminium. Glue it in place with Silicone RTV and a few well placed Pop Rivets or screws. Even 3 mil plastic Drop sheet will work. If you are not using the factory latching mechanism ( Hatch pins ), close off the latch hole with a small patch panel. Seal it with RTV. This is in a very low pressure area and will suck fumes in. Hatch pins create their own problems, so think about sealing those as well if you use them and have drilled thru holes in the hatch. Couple of other things. Use gaskets or RTV to seal the T/Lights. Although this is not as big a deal as the Hatch latch hole. On the inside of the left quarter panel you will find a hole ( or two ) for the Antenna grommet. Stick a rubber plug in it. The 1/4 panels to wheel house seams are sealed with Black Mastic. It often dries up and falls out. Break out the RTV or Mastic sealer again and re-goop. Other than extending the exhaust ( which has to be done ), these steps add next to nothing to the weight of the car. And really eliminate fumes. Sealing the large rectangular hole section of the T' Gate helps immensely on a Race Car or a street car. I've employed most of the above sealing tricks on my street car, and it's now a pleasure to drive. No more fumes!!!

EFI Hardware is an Australian company and make nearly everything in house. Personally I've always found that Australian and New Zealand products are normally very good quality. The guys over there are Hard Core.

Juts stumbled across these. From EFI hardware so should be good quality. Reasonable price IMHO. Combine with your favorite Triple manifold, add injectors and Bazinga!! Note the 6 degree throttle blades. Would be a neat conversion from a Plenum manifold for someone... whose name may or may not start with an " S " Edit I suppose a link may help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Cylinder-DCOE-45mm-Throttle-Body-Kit-inc-TPS-Ram-Tubes-Fuel-Rail/261879001624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

A lot of shops making Z intakes? L-series not very many at all, and some of the Manifolds were junk. Now these guys make serious stuff and can make anything your little heart desires. Serious kit and serious $$$. Drool is free however... https://www.facebook.com/customplenumcreations

I found a couple of Plastic adapters at Home depot. Best choice seems to be a 1/2" NPT PVC reducer bushing. Schedule 40 so should be good to 200 F. 48 cents each... so I think I can afford a few mistakes!! Found some PTFE reducer bushings ( For Chemicals ) at McMaster Carr that are good for over 400 F. $37.00 each!!