cgsheen

Oops OOPS! You're correct again. I'll go back and edit my incorrect posts above. The transistor "collector" should be grounded.

You posted a component diagram, not an electrical diagram. The stock 280ZXT Ignitor (Power Transistor, Electronic Ignition Module) is grounded to the frame and has two wiring connectors via a "T" shaped connector on the ignitor: B/W from the ignition switch = battery voltage at IGN ON and Y/W = signal from ECU to fire the coil. The stock Ignitor passes power to the coil "+" terminal via a short B/W from the Ignitor to the coil. The output from the Ignitor is an L (blue wire) that runs to the coil "-" terminal. The amplified output of the Ignitor causes the coil to spark. I would say: look at the Turbo electrical diagram and you'll see what I'm referring to. I don't think I'm "mis-remembering" anything (apparently, I WAS!) - I've been over this dozens of times with multiple people and hands on with the stock coil/ignitor on numerous occasions. I don't know if the PRW-2 will work as intended, but I used one (unknowingly) with my F31 (Infiniti M30) engine management system for years. That was with the stock F31 coil and wiring harness setup however. I've never personally used one to drive the stock 280ZXT coil. However, it'll be an interesting replacement if it works for Ricky... But, the scheme follows the diagram above where the transistor "base" is connected to the Y/W from the ECU, the transistor "collector" is connected to the B/W (battery voltage @ IGN ON) (transistor "collector" should be tied to GND) and the transistor "emitter" is the L output to coil "-" It could be that the PRW-2 will perform the same function. I would say yes. Sorry for my mis-information, the transistor "collector" should be grounded (not powered) so change the power wire to GND. I'm interested to know if this works as a replacement, so be sure and let us know. And I hope you've double checked and cleaned your wiring connectors...

The coil/ignitor wiring is different in the early-to-mid 1990's Nissan's that used the PRW-2. (true but not relevant) From the Power Transistor wiring diagram above: W/B = transistor "base" = trigger = input from ECU (Y/W on Ignitor "T" connector) L = transistor "collector" = voltage input or source = (on L28ET Ignitor this would be the B/W +12V (battery voltage) @ IGN ON) GND - The stock ignitor gets it's GND from the frame (coil bracket attached to fender...) B = transistor "emitter" = signal out to coil = (same as L (blue) on L28ET ignitor -> "-" terminal on stock coil) The difference (and confusion) in the wiring: Power @ IGN ON in the later cars is delivered to the coil and then thru the coil to the Power Transistor collector. (On the stock L28ET, it's the opposite - power @IGN ON goes first to the Ignitor, then from the Ignitor to the coil "+" terminal) The output of the emitter is shown to go to the coil to trigger spark, but is also "tee'd" to a pin on the ECU that is tied to GND in the diagram. I'm not smart enough to know why the tie to ground... (again, not relevant...)

^^ Hard to answer that question without knowing how good you are at wiring and electrical. Your question about using a 280Z EFI harness on an L28ET with a Z31 MAF and ECU leads me to believe that either you're a wiring wizard - or... The problem with all L28ET ECCS harnesses (and all the L28E EFI harnesses) is: AGE. They're all pretty hammered - connectors crusty and oxidized, wire itself oxidized. They were never really weather-proofed and the corrosion leads to faulty connections and oxidized wire leads to skewed sensor readings due to the added resistance. Most people - myself and 98blackbell (tooquick260's Dad) (along with countless others) included - start with the stock or stock-ish ECCS harness, spend countless hours trying to find the problems it's causing or that pop up randomly AND THEN move on to the engine management system we should have installed in the first place. Oh, I ran mine stock for years. And it was a great learning experience - believe me... But honestly, I wish I had all those hours back. I wish I had put all those hours into a different ECU and management scheme from the start. Getting back to your question (because I doubt someone is going to post: "Here's exactly how you do that! Step One:") Download the FSM's for both your 280Z and the 1982 280ZX, learn everything there is to know about the L28ET and it's ECCS. Now learn all about the Z31 ECU and MAF and how to adapt the wiring between the 3 different models. Read all the threads here on HybridZ about the swap, swap wiring, Z31 ECU adaptation... Then get to work! A turbo engine in these things is a blast!

The Coil/Ignitor from a VG30 engine can also be used as a replacement for the stock coil/ignitor - it's a package, newer style, and easy to wire. It's been my experience that the Ignitor is easy to blame and not normally at fault. Not saying that it can't happen, but mostly I find the problem elsewhere. HEI worked flawlessly on my L28ET for the time I used it. If a new ignitor doesn't fix the problem, look at the CAS optical module (mine had a solder joint that cracked on the 4-pin connector and caused a very random shut down), and look at the rest of your wiring and connectors on the ECCS harness - they gotta be clean and tight.

I actually scratched my head for a second when I read your first post, but I knew what you meant... I've seen you comment in various posts regarding thermostats but I've never wandered to the Cooling System thread - SO - I was actually really glad that you posted here and explained your reasoning. What followed was pretty amusing...

+1

I'm an old school plumber & HVAC tech so I actually prefer copper refer tubing with standard flare fittings to the o-ring stuff they use on newer cars. Done properly, they hold tight and are easy to replace or repair. Make sure both sides of the flare on the tube are clean and use a little or your refrigerant oil on both surfaces (interior and exterior of the tubing end). Snug the flare nut up - always use two wrenches - and don't over-tighten. The tubing and flare fittings will last nearly forever if they're not abused. After you get some pressure in the system, you can check for leaks with soapy water in a spray bottle. They make commercial products for gas leak detection too, but some "Dawn" (or other liquid dish soap) mixed with water works just as well. Spray the joints and look for bubbles...

I think you need to back up a bit with that first pic. I think we need more context. The Black/Blue and Black/Yellow in the area of the coil usually go to the ballast resistor. (Both are a feed from the ignition switch - Black/Yellow is always "start signal" on these Datsun's) So... Better picture and download the Factory Service Manual. Studying the Ignition system will help I think.

If you look at the Body Electrical section of the 1972 Factory Service Manual, you'll see that the circuit from the Ignition Switch to the Starter Solenoid is simple, has no other connections, no relay, no fuses . (It will go through at least one connector - from the dash harness to the engine bay harness - maybe more than one) Pretty much one wire straight from the switch to the solenoid. B/Y is only used in the Datsun harness for this one purpose. Use the harness diagrams in the FSM and you can trace it's path. This is one of the most common problems in Z cars. You just THINK yours is different than everyone else's... Make sure you have a complete circuit from the ignition switch and install the starter relay kit and you won't have the problem anymore.

http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

You're using a Mac. That's your problem...

Best of Luck with the swap!

Does (did) your A/C work? (system charged, worked normally before you cleaned stuff)... If so: To check the "yellow wire" that you think may go to the A/C compressor (and I think you're probably right...): Turn the ignition to ON, turn on the A/C as if the car were running, check the yellow wire with a volt meter (multimeter) - it should read battery voltage (~12V DC) if you know how to check voltage with a multimeter. Now, turn the A/C OFF - should read 0V DC... If that's what happens, connect it to the A/C compressor (magnetic clutch). Next: Take the "T" connector off the Ignitor, Check the voltage on the Black/White wire part of the connector. Should be 0V DC if the ignition is OFF, should be battery voltage if the ignition is in the ON position. If you have ~12V at ignition ON that's correct and you can plug the "T" connector back to the ignitor. Do you know how to check for spark? That's the next step.

The short wire coming off the A/C compressor is the "magnetic clutch". It looks like the condenser is wired correctly - Black/white wire with a bullet connector close to the coil, thru the condenser, then to a spade on the distributor body, correct? It looks like the coil is connected properly. Can't see the "T" connector on the ignitor very well. "T" connector has a black/white and a Yellow (yellow/white) - right? BUT - the condenser and A/C magnetic clutch have nothing to do with the engine starting and running. Either or both could be disconnected, and as long as everything else is hooked up right, the engine will run. Take a better picture of the "two loose wires" you're talking about...

Just Patience...

Stance-USA struts have a different thread pitch than Megan Racing coilovers so they wouldn't work with your Megan threaded adapters. I have personal knowledge in this regard as I started out with McKinney's kit on my 260Z. Sorry, you'd need to cut your adapters off and weld on the Stance-USA adapters to use our kit.

Sorry, I was being dyslexic - you're correct Namor. We've done 4 or 5 fiberglass air dams and they've all fit reasonably well. (they've all taken a little tweaking, but that's working with composites...) I've editing my post above. That's my air dam going on Goldie - when she was orange...

Peter in Phoenix shared a picture of his 280Z front suspension going back together. Looks great!

ding ding ding... And, the headlight buckets are all the same early to late. The only difference you'll find is that some will be composite and some will be steel. edit: The stock valence pieces have captive nuts, mount behind the headlight bucket, and bolt through the headlight bucket.

Had to chime in - at Sakura Garage, we have no "extreme low" kit. The Stance-USA coilover kit we offer has always allowed an installed ride-height from stock to - well, very low. Lucas figures that he can get the frame rails on his late 280Z 1.5" from the pavement. That's not where his car is set, and I would never recommend such a stance. But it is an example of the amount of adjustment we've always had in these coils. @kona41 & rome03 - Thanks for the kind words!

I think there's plenty of room on the left for boost. Nice little cross flow up front...

Not at all. No, no, not at all.. I'm always happy to help people with their engine swaps, wiring problems, and I can certainly build a harness when someone has the need. I also really appreciate your recommendations! But I believe Bernardd has a fairly complete solution - and he was first (in more ways than one)... It would be well worth the OP's time to shoot him a PM, get the info, weigh his options. Actually, the final sentence was really the point of my first post - Think a JZ is any easier to wire into an S30 than an L28ET? Should be: same-same - wiring wise...

PM Bernardd. There really isn't a "plug-n-play" solution for a swap into an S30. Even if someone already has or builds you a harness, it still has to be wired into the S30 (which is NOT difficult but seems to stymie a lot of people...). The answer would be to have your "harness provider" label the connections that have to be made from the ECCS harness to the chassis wiring. Seems to me that a shop that could figure out how to wire a JZ into an S30 could do the same for an L28ET...

I have two shops near hear (one in Mesa, one in Tempe) that carry the side-bulb welt in bulk and sell it by the foot. One is a paint shop that sells retail and has a bunch of paint/body & detailing supplies. The other is a upholstery shop that sells odds-and-ends , has auto, marine, and general upholstery fabric, leather, and supplies. They also happen to carry a bunch of auto fasteners and weatherstrip. I can buy it there too. They also carry the window channel weatherstrip that perfectly fits a Z.