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cgsheen

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Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen
    The Coil/Ignitor from a VG30 engine can also be used as a replacement for the stock coil/ignitor - it's a package, newer style, and easy to wire. It's been my experience that the Ignitor is easy to blame and not normally at fault. Not saying that it can't happen, but mostly I find the problem elsewhere. HEI worked flawlessly on my L28ET for the time I used it. If a new ignitor doesn't fix the problem, look at the CAS optical module (mine had a solder joint that cracked on the 4-pin connector and caused a very random shut down), and look at the rest of your wiring and connectors on the ECCS harness - they gotta be clean and tight.
  2. cgsheen
    I actually scratched my head for a second when I read your first post, but I knew what you meant... I've seen you comment in various posts regarding thermostats but I've never wandered to the Cooling System thread - SO - I was actually really glad that you posted here and explained your reasoning. What followed was pretty amusing...
  3. cgsheen
    +1
  4. cgsheen
    I'm an old school plumber & HVAC tech so I actually prefer copper refer tubing with standard flare fittings to the o-ring stuff they use on newer cars. Done properly, they hold tight and are easy to replace or repair. Make sure both sides of the flare on the tube are clean and use a little or your refrigerant oil on both surfaces (interior and exterior of the tubing end). Snug the flare nut up - always use two wrenches - and don't over-tighten. The tubing and flare fittings will last nearly forever if they're not abused. After you get some pressure in the system, you can check for leaks with soapy water in a spray bottle. They make commercial products for gas leak detection too, but some "Dawn" (or other liquid dish soap) mixed with water works just as well. Spray the joints and look for bubbles...
  5. cgsheen
    I think you need to back up a bit with that first pic. I think we need more context. The Black/Blue and Black/Yellow in the area of the coil usually go to the ballast resistor. (Both are a feed from the ignition switch - Black/Yellow is always "start signal" on these Datsun's) So... Better picture and download the Factory Service Manual. Studying the Ignition system will help I think.
  6. cgsheen
    If you look at the Body Electrical section of the 1972 Factory Service Manual, you'll see that the circuit from the Ignition Switch to the Starter Solenoid is simple, has no other connections, no relay, no fuses . (It will go through at least one connector - from the dash harness to the engine bay harness - maybe more than one) Pretty much one wire straight from the switch to the solenoid. B/Y is only used in the Datsun harness for this one purpose. Use the harness diagrams in the FSM and you can trace it's path. This is one of the most common problems in Z cars. You just THINK yours is different than everyone else's... Make sure you have a complete circuit from the ignition switch and install the starter relay kit and you won't have the problem anymore.
  7. cgsheen
    http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals
  8. cgsheen
    You're using a Mac. That's your problem...
  9. cgsheen
    Best of Luck with the swap!
  10. cgsheen
    Does (did) your A/C work? (system charged, worked normally before you cleaned stuff)... If so: To check the "yellow wire" that you think may go to the A/C compressor (and I think you're probably right...): Turn the ignition to ON, turn on the A/C as if the car were running, check the yellow wire with a volt meter (multimeter) - it should read battery voltage (~12V DC) if you know how to check voltage with a multimeter. Now, turn the A/C OFF - should read 0V DC... If that's what happens, connect it to the A/C compressor (magnetic clutch). Next: Take the "T" connector off the Ignitor, Check the voltage on the Black/White wire part of the connector. Should be 0V DC if the ignition is OFF, should be battery voltage if the ignition is in the ON position. If you have ~12V at ignition ON that's correct and you can plug the "T" connector back to the ignitor. Do you know how to check for spark? That's the next step.
  11. cgsheen
    The short wire coming off the A/C compressor is the "magnetic clutch". It looks like the condenser is wired correctly - Black/white wire with a bullet connector close to the coil, thru the condenser, then to a spade on the distributor body, correct? It looks like the coil is connected properly. Can't see the "T" connector on the ignitor very well. "T" connector has a black/white and a Yellow (yellow/white) - right? BUT - the condenser and A/C magnetic clutch have nothing to do with the engine starting and running. Either or both could be disconnected, and as long as everything else is hooked up right, the engine will run. Take a better picture of the "two loose wires" you're talking about...
  12. cgsheen
    Just Patience...
  13. cgsheen
    Stance-USA struts have a different thread pitch than Megan Racing coilovers so they wouldn't work with your Megan threaded adapters. I have personal knowledge in this regard as I started out with McKinney's kit on my 260Z. Sorry, you'd need to cut your adapters off and weld on the Stance-USA adapters to use our kit.
  14. cgsheen
    Sorry, I was being dyslexic - you're correct Namor. We've done 4 or 5 fiberglass air dams and they've all fit reasonably well. (they've all taken a little tweaking, but that's working with composites...) I've editing my post above. That's my air dam going on Goldie - when she was orange...
  15. cgsheen
    Peter in Phoenix shared a picture of his 280Z front suspension going back together. Looks great!
  16. cgsheen
    ding ding ding... And, the headlight buckets are all the same early to late. The only difference you'll find is that some will be composite and some will be steel. edit: The stock valence pieces have captive nuts, mount behind the headlight bucket, and bolt through the headlight bucket.
  17. cgsheen
    Had to chime in - at Sakura Garage, we have no "extreme low" kit. The Stance-USA coilover kit we offer has always allowed an installed ride-height from stock to - well, very low. Lucas figures that he can get the frame rails on his late 280Z 1.5" from the pavement. That's not where his car is set, and I would never recommend such a stance. But it is an example of the amount of adjustment we've always had in these coils. @kona41 & rome03 - Thanks for the kind words!
  18. cgsheen
    I think there's plenty of room on the left for boost. Nice little cross flow up front...
  19. cgsheen
    Not at all. No, no, not at all.. I'm always happy to help people with their engine swaps, wiring problems, and I can certainly build a harness when someone has the need. I also really appreciate your recommendations! But I believe Bernardd has a fairly complete solution - and he was first (in more ways than one)... It would be well worth the OP's time to shoot him a PM, get the info, weigh his options. Actually, the final sentence was really the point of my first post - Think a JZ is any easier to wire into an S30 than an L28ET? Should be: same-same - wiring wise...
  20. cgsheen
    PM Bernardd. There really isn't a "plug-n-play" solution for a swap into an S30. Even if someone already has or builds you a harness, it still has to be wired into the S30 (which is NOT difficult but seems to stymie a lot of people...). The answer would be to have your "harness provider" label the connections that have to be made from the ECCS harness to the chassis wiring. Seems to me that a shop that could figure out how to wire a JZ into an S30 could do the same for an L28ET...
  21. cgsheen
    I have two shops near hear (one in Mesa, one in Tempe) that carry the side-bulb welt in bulk and sell it by the foot. One is a paint shop that sells retail and has a bunch of paint/body & detailing supplies. The other is a upholstery shop that sells odds-and-ends , has auto, marine, and general upholstery fabric, leather, and supplies. They also happen to carry a bunch of auto fasteners and weatherstrip. I can buy it there too. They also carry the window channel weatherstrip that perfectly fits a Z.
  22. cgsheen
    Brian, Thanks for the close-up on the profile! Your pictures are much better than the ones on the eBay site. This molding looks very close to the original we saw in the '75 museum car. The outer edge may have been slightly thinner, but that's probably due to compression over the many years. Definitely a huge step above the door seals that Precision makes! I like the "sponge" used and the "U" shape of the bead. It has the flexibility of the bulb type, but a wider, straighter sealing surface on the side. I'm impressed actually.
  23. cgsheen
    I think I'd have to see it in real life. It looks fairly similar to the weatherstrip on Bob's '75 280Z "museum car" that we had in the shop. To me, it looks a little thicker, but I'm sure the weatherstrip on the 280 was compressed from 30 years of having the door shut on it. However, the original stuff is extremely soft and pliable. It conformed to whatever gap the door presented with ease. The doors closed with an unbelievably light touch (seriously - it was unreal...). The original was definitely a "flap" type seal - not a bulb - and definitely nothing at all like the stuff Precision sells... For the $100 the Ebay seller wants, I can buy side-bulb welt weatherstrip for three or four Z's. Still, after seeing the original, I lust for weatherstrip as good as that.
  24. cgsheen
    I was wondering if you could post a picture of the actual profile of the weatherstrip (looking directly at one end). This intrigues me as I've seen the original door weatherstrip that Nissan used and I'm wondering how this weatherstrip compares. Thanks. Never mind - found his listing on eBay and the photos show the profile I was looking for.
  25. cgsheen
    . Can you take the front suspension apart (struts with hubs out of the car) and lower the rear suspension down and out of the wheel well? (disconnect from the strut tower and drop it down - no need to remove the spindle pin, LCA, or hub) Can you remove the tophats, springs, and strut cartridges? Do you have the tools to cut the strut tubes off near the hubs? (Sawzall (reciprocating saw), hacksaw, grinder) Can you clean the hubs for welding prep? Do you have access to a welding machine (or welder) and ability to weld the threaded adapters to the hubs? Our Camber Plates are easily installed with a drill, cut-off wheel, and sawzall or hacksaw blade. We have instructions and installation tips on our website when you purchase our kit.
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