Jump to content
HybridZ

cgsheen

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    672

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen
    Edit: Removed this post...
  2. cgsheen
    You could pull the CAS out of a newer Nissan at a yard... The distributor type VG30's in the Maxima's, Infiniti M30, Z31 use the same optical module (different package, the top of the circuit board isn't exposed). They're slightly different than stock, but they'll bolt in and use the same plug. The only problem I've had with a CAS is a "intermittent shut-down" deal caused by a broken solder joint... To me, it sounds like fuel. Don't forget about pressure and VOLUME. You can have a restriction that doesn't show a decrease in pressure, but will definitely affect volume. Return lines? (sounds like it's picking up something and clogging, then falling off / opening up and picking it up again?) Otherwise you have a really unusual fault...
  3. cgsheen
    Else do this: Grab a hunk of wire and run a new Tach signal wire from the (-) post of the coil to the resistor under the dash. (this can be temporary, just as a test, so you can do it "quick and dirty"...) The Tach signal MUST go through the resistor. The resistor is always outside the dash harness under (back behind) the glove box. It's a small square-ish thing with two wires. (it's in one of the pictures above) CUT the blue wire (coming from the original coil and ignition module) a few inches from the resistor and splice in your new wire - you're replacing the original wiring to the resistor with your new wire. From the wiring diagrams, it looks like the '75 and '76 have two blue wires - the '77 and '78 have a blue from the coil and a Blue/White out to the Tach. If you have a '75 or '76, you'll have to verify which of the two blue wires at the resistor goes to the Tach and what one comes from the coil/ignition module... (In all cases, the Blue wire also goes to the stock ECU, so make sure to abandon everything but the wire going from the resistor to the Tach) See if the Tach works now. No? Check the wiring from the resistor to the Tach. (you can check the entire length of the wiring: connect you new wire to the resistor but not to the coil yet, unplug the Tach. Use your electrical meter to check continuity from the unconnected end of your new wire to the signal wire pin on the Tach connector.) You've already made sure the Tach actually has power and ground, right? (You won't find a RED for power on the Tach connector. On the '75 - '76 it's Green and is common with the water temp / oil pressure gauge. On the '77-'78 looks like it's Blue (signal wire is Blue/White) and common with all the other gauges. Black for Ground in all cases. The three wires to the gauge itself are together on one side of the connector, the four pins on the other side of the connector are for lights.) Still NO?
  4. cgsheen
    If it runs with the distributor out of position, you have the spindle in wrong - you're probably off a tooth or so.
  5. cgsheen
    Your stock Tach wire was blue and attached to the coil (-) terminal. It's in the harness that crosses the front of the radiator (goes to all the lights and etc.) and comes back into the engine bay. Hook it up to the L28ET coil the same way. You'll need to disconnect your stock electronic ignition module under the dash. (At the very least, disconnect the blue wire from the module and tape it off...) Otherwise, your Tach signal will come from the Ignitor output to the coil, through the resistor under the glove box (that black square-ish thing in your second picture), then to the Tach. Just follow the wiring diagram.
  6. cgsheen
    Greg had a nice phone conversation last Saturday with Jim W. up NorCal way. Some of you may know his little black S30 autocross car with the gold stripes. He has used a Ground Control setup for quite a while and just switched to a set of these Stance-USA SS Coilovers we sent him. He's apparently a pretty good autocrosser, and I guess he likes his new suspension setup. He was telling Greg about setting some new records and how he's taken a second-and-a-half off his lap time! A second and a half! Well, congrats Jim! Glad you're enjoying the new suspension setup and we'll look for your new U-Tube video! Drive the heck out of that thing!
  7. cgsheen
    Nick and I were at the Z-Bash and wanted to pick some up while we were there. No stock then either...
  8. cgsheen
    Coolant drain...
  9. cgsheen
    The "new" coil and ignitor: The "T" connector is for power and ECU signal. Power comes from the Black/White you already have at your stock coil. With the new coil, it'll power the Ignitor and then to the coil (+) with the wiring that's already there. The Blue is output from the ignitor to the coil (-). You need to add the Yellow from the ECU to the Ignitor to get the "signal to fire" and that's all you'll need... That's also where your existing Blue from the stock coil harness will connect - it'll (re)connect the tach signal. You need to disconnect the stock Electronic Ignition Module under the dash (at the very least, remove the Blue wire from the module and tape it off). (on the '76, the Blue originates at the Ignition Module and "tees" off to both the coil (signal to fire) and through the resistor to the tach (tach signal. If you remove the link to the stock Ignition Module it just becomes the Tach Signal from the "new" coil/ignitor...) As for the fusable links, I do the same thing - use the 280ZX link block - and just tie it to the battery Your research was correct - you can use the '82-'83 harness. The CAS signal and wiring are the same.
  10. cgsheen
    Did you remove or disconnect your stock electronic ignition module from under the dash? The blue wire on the stock engine is the "signal to fire" to the coil, it also "tees" off under the dash, to the resistor, and then the Tach. If you haven't already, you need to remove the blue wire from the stock module. Then check your tach. Did you have the distributor spindle out of the engine and/or are you sure it's set properly? Did you check your mechanical timing? Get the engine set to TDC on compression stroke, check position of the rotor. make sure it's pointing to the cylinder one post on the cap. You can undo the distributor adjustment bolt - take it all the way out. turn the distributor whatever way it takes to get the engine running. note it's position. If it's outside the adjustment window, you need to reposition the distributor spindle properly. When it's set correctly, the adjustment bolt will be almost dead center of the adjustment range with timing set at 20 degrees. There's a picture in the FSM of how the top of the spindle looks when properly installed, but lots of people seem to have trouble with that.
  11. cgsheen
    A bit of misinformation here. My early 260Z has a build date of 07/74. It has 240Z style front end (grill, turn signals, lower valence pieces). It had pistons on the bumpers front and back, but "slim style" bumpers. It has 240Z style suspension, a rear sway bar and an R180 differential. The interior and rear end styling are 280Z - or I should say that the 280Z inherited it's interior and rear end styling from the 260Z. My early 260Z has factory installed air conditioning and the redesigned dash, blower and venting arrangement that allowed that to happen. The door cards are not 240 style, they are the same from 1974 through 1976. My seat mounts are the same as the 240's. Those changed in '75 I believe (my son's '76 definitely has different seat mounts). The interior of my "early" has small diamond pattern vinyl on the trans tunnel and carpet similar to the 240's. Not the full carpet of the 280.
  12. cgsheen
    There are four wires to the distributor. Just check the red and black to see if it has power and ground. Signal back to the ECU (green and white) is a little trickier. Leave that until you've double checked your coil and igniter wiring. Make sure you have power to the coil and igniter at IGN ON.
  13. cgsheen
    The vinyl and foam shrink and warp over the years. They dry out and crack. You may want to warm them up a bit. If it were mine, I'd put it in just like you were trying in the pictures but first stick a stiff piece of plastic or a piece of manila folder (stiff but thin paper or plastic sheet or the like) on the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the opening to help the gauge make it past the edge of the hole without busting up the vinyl any more than necessary. Pull the sheet out as you're pushing the gauge in - it's gonna catch on the ledge of the gauge pod anyway. I did kind of the same thing with my clock housing years ago. I mounted the boost gauge innards from a 280ZXT into my clock housing. That's been my boost gauge ever since I did the turbo swap.
  14. cgsheen
    Looks like the ground wire to the AFM to me. Your other ground wire - the one with the 2 ring terminals - Large ring to the body (fenderwell), small ring to the intake manifold. Your picture is so bad, I'd have to go to my cabinet in the back of the shop and pull out an ECCS harness to divine what that bullet connector you have in your hand is. What color is the wire going into the bullet?
  15. cgsheen
    Anyway you do it, you'll probably have to clean up the ends - so use what you've got. With a tubing cutter you'll need to ream out the bore as the wheel "reverse flairs" the tube. The cutting wheel is probably stronger than you think. The trick with any tubing cutter is to slowly increase pressure and roll that thing around a couple of times each time after adding a little pressure until you're through. Do it enough and you'll learn what each type of material takes to get a good cut and keep your wheel from breaking... With the compression fitting, lube the ferrule and the threads of the adapter or connector. (slip the nut on, slip the ferrule barely on the tube, slip the fitting on, apply a little lube to the male thread of the fitting and the ferrule, pull the nut to the fitting and hand tighten it before you put the wrenches on.) We plumbers use teflon paste but you can use any lube. The lube will keep the threads and the ferrule from cracking due to heat (friction) while being compressed. Don't over tighten your fittings.
  16. cgsheen
    Patrick and his nice little Late 260Z completed a 2-day NASA event a few weeks ago here in Phoenix, completing HPDE1 and passing off into HPDE2. That got him pretty stoked to drive his car! I think he's loving that camber adjustment and his Stance-USA coils. Here are a couple of pics of him and his Z last weekend at the P1-Mussleman Track down in Tucson, AZ. He went down to join the Datsun Southwest crowd at the track - looks like everyone had a great time.
  17. cgsheen
    What are you doing with the old engine? I'd like to have that intake manifold...
  18. cgsheen
    Tony, - assuming there was an actual rationale for this engine builder - Why use dished pistons with this block / head combo? Building a turbo engine? Plus, will you guys that know these engines help get Randalla the information he needs. He's resistant to having anything done to the bottom end - IDK why... A few of us here in town have been telling him to swap the pistons for flat-tops. I'm sure he'd listen to someone who actually knows the "whys and wherefores" (not me...) and explains the course-of-action and benefits. Or, at least the difference between what he has and what he could have... Don't hate me Randy, I'm just trying to help!
  19. cgsheen
    Since that day in 2009 when I put this car back on the road! This IS Arizona after all... I was lucky that this frame had factory A/C - the interior stuff was all here & all I had to find was engine bay parts to get it working. The stock fan always sucked and the squirrel cage plastic only lasted a few seasons before the thing cracked and came apart. Best thing that ever happened - made me go look for a replacement... edit: Besides this, be sure to check the grommets in your firewall - seal up all the ways hot engine bay and/or outside air can penetrate the interior. (shift boot, weatherstrip, etc.) You always want some cabin air exchange, but after all these years most Z's "leak" way more than they need to...
  20. cgsheen
    The Kia "squirrel cage" fits the blower box well when you remove the stock spacers - no rubbing anywhere. As you can see, It's also quite a bit larger and has more fins than either the stock fan OR the Honda fan. (that's why I chose it initially... While at the P-N-P years ago, I had a Honda blower in my hand (looked kinda wimpy to me...) and came across the Kia (it's also not just the Sportage that uses this blower) - there was just no comparison between the two blowers. The only downside is the modification to the blower box to get the larger cage through the hole. It moves a lot of air - definately a huge improvement over stock. If the S30 vent configuration wasn't so stupid, it would blow you out of the cabin. As it stands it overcomes many weaknesses of the ventilation design through sheer force... Don't forget to seal up the spaces between vent parts with new foam strips and check the hoses & tubing for leaks behind the dash - get all that air blowing out the vents not lost behind the dash!
  21. cgsheen
    On the US models, the early series used a smaller brake booster and the pedal box was narrower. The clutch pedal was made of thinner metal than the brake pedal and had a bend along it's length to add strength. When they went to the the larger booster, they had to space the master cylinders farther apart. The box is slightly different, the pedals farther apart at their mount point, and the clutch pedal "bar" is as thick as the brake pedal. It also has a bigger bend to get the foot pad back next to the brake pedal. Here the "early" box was in the '70-'72. IDK about the '73. The later box was definitely used in all 260's (1974) & 280's. But, what made the difference was the brake booster being used... IDK if the booster change was at the same time in all markets'.
  22. cgsheen
    Really Jon? I agree completely with your first sentence. I'll take your word for the first half of the second sentence (and I think "mistafosta" probably does know). I can't agree at all with the latter half of the second sentence. Your third sentence is spot-on. The guys at Stance-USA take racing seriously, are very accommodating when it comes to special projects and custom valving, shock dynoing. I'm very interested to see what they come up with.
  23. cgsheen
    It's been a while since I bumped this - so, here's a bump...
  24. cgsheen
    While you're checking the sensors, check the wiring and connectors - clean, clean, clean them, both sides. JavelinZ has a late 280 that he dailies and gets through emissions every year. His is ALL stock though... If you end up needing a mechanic, go see Scott - he's a few doors down from us. 1985 E 5th Street, Suite 10, Tempe. I can get you his phone number but I don't have his card on me right now. He's sorted out a few Z's that we've sent down there - both EFI and carbed. He knows Bosch L-Jetronic - very knowledgeable about vintage imports.
  25. cgsheen
    Ya. Mine originally came from a pick-n-pull because I was there to "do the Honda blower swap". That's when I discovered the Kia blower. (I actually looked at every import in that yard because I thought the Honda blower looked kind of wimpy...) Mine has worked great lo these many years - but now that I know, I'd just buy a new one rather than go back to the junk yard...
×
×
  • Create New...