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cgsheen

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Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen
    Thank Goodness Summer is almost over!!!
  2. cgsheen
    Ya, headlight relay kit...
  3. cgsheen
    Exarctly...
  4. cgsheen
    Same trigger wheel (optical disc) is in the early 90's Infiniti M30 and the Nissan Maxima of the same era. Any VG30E (distributor type V6) will have that disc... Here in Phoenix, the early "4-door sports car" Maxima's are all over the parts yards.
  5. cgsheen
    I suppose you've already checked the fuel return line all the way back to the tank. Just go back over your fuel connections and tubing. Verify that you have the supply and return lines are connected correctly to the fuel rail. Make sure the fuel rail doesn't have a blockage. I always find it easiest to start at the source and follow the path it takes back to the tank... ( you can disconnect the return tubing at the frame rail and run it into a container. You should have very good fuel flow - the FPR will "back up" the fuel to maintain a certain pressure, but then the entire output of the fuel pump will flow out the return line to be returned to the tank. ) You know how much fuel pressure you should have - ~36.3 PSI with the engine not running - ~36.3 PSI MINUS your manifold vacuum when it is running (unless you're in boost ). That's what the stock ECCS is expecting. My manifold vacuum is usually 10-11 PSI (maybe 11-12) at idle. And... you can always run an aftermarket FPR...
  6. cgsheen
    Of the 4 wires connected to the L28ET C.A.S., one is Battery Voltage, one is Ground, one is the 60 degree slit signal back to the ECU, and one is the 1 degree slit signal back to the ECU. It's easiest to refer to the wiring at the CAS connector: Red = Battery Voltage, Black = GND, Green and White are the two "degree" signals back to the ECU (but I always get them mixed up). With the rectangular 4-spade connector pulled from the distributor, make sure you have voltage and ground with the ignition on. You can also check continuity of the green and white signal wires back to the ECU pins. Then plug the connector back in. You can find how to test the CAS in the 1990-1992 Infiniti M30 Factory Service Manual (probably also the Z32, Nissan Maxima - any of the VG30E distributor type engines...) Get the FSM from Nicoclub.com. They use the same type of optical module that the L28ET uses, and they describe how to test the CAS in their FSM (at least the M30 FSM does). Basically you remove the distributor (with the harness wiring still attached) and rotate it slowly by hand with the ignition on. You'll monitor the output of the green and white wires one at a time with your electrical meter. It's pretty easy to see the six "60 degree" signals turning by hand - a little more difficult to see the "1 degree" signals. The meter should jump to +5V momentarily as the CAS sends the pulse to the ECU.
  7. cgsheen
    Mine was from a 1999 Kia Sportage. I'm not sure about the year range otherwise. At the yard, I think every Kia blower of that era (late '90's, early 2000's) looked the same - no matter the model. I chose the one from the Sportage because it had the most cabin space... There are a couple of install threads with good pictures of the Kia blower. You might search for those and check them out. I didn't have the foresight to take pics of mine and my install.
  8. cgsheen
    Here's my original post - just after I found the Kia blower. I didn't realize it was so long ago. Still blowing strong though... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100692-280z-blower-motor-upgrade/?hl=sportage&do=findComment&comment=944052
  9. cgsheen
    It's on the right side of the throttle body (inboard). It comes up thru the body and serves as a "stop" to a little flange on the throttle linkage. There's a screw with a lock nut under there. Hard to get to as it's all "upside down". Not your problem, but everything you learn about your engine is a good thing... Your problem is still likely electrical. Wiring and connectors. Don't forget the problem I had with random shutoffs years back: Broken solder joint on the C.A.S. connector spades. May or may not be an issue, something to check if all else proves good. (Made the ECU lose the CAS signal and shut down - problem was fairly random but heat seemed to affect it as well...) You'd need a "new" optical module to check that out unless you can do board level repairs on the optical module circuit board... Get one from a 90's distributor type VG30E - Maxima, M30, Z31. You don't need the whole distributor, just the black optical module (CAS). Are you using the Air Control Valve (Air Regulator '82 280ZX FSM - EF&EC-page 55)? Have you verified that it works (test listed in the FSM)? It should get battery voltage at IGN ON continuously until IGN OFF. There's a bi-metal in there that opens and closes a shutter. It's a very simple part, but the shutter needs to open and close smoothly. You can pull the air hose from one side, turn the ignition to ON and watch the thing slowly open - it should take a couple of minutes. Fully described in the FSM (which is much better than my memory).
  10. cgsheen
    My car has factory A/C. I'm pretty sure everyone in this thread does as well. I guess I don't understand the rest of your question... The Kia blower is essentially the same as the stock blower. It has a slightly larger squirrel cage with more vanes and moves more air
  11. cgsheen
    You can, but then the recliner is on the wrong side of the seat. If that's a non-issue for you, try it. I've never done it that way... While I say "It's a bigger job that you think", the whole seat can be completely disassembled in 10 minutes or less, seats and bottoms swapped, and reassembled in another 10. It'll take you longer to get the 4 nuts off an early (240Z, early 260Z) to get the seat out of the car than to disassemble the seat itself. You guys with lates don't know how easy you have it...
  12. cgsheen
    Ooooh, I want that dash!
  13. cgsheen
    Not a stock evaporator core... Glad it came out though and that you got a picture of it. We would all be telling you the wrong thing concerning this particular evap core - stock evap core is entirely different.
  14. cgsheen
    The seat back and the seat bottom are identical. The sliders, rails, and side brackets (recliners - hold the seat bottom and back together...) are not - they are right/left side specific. To swap - disassemble the seats, swap seat bottoms and seat backs, reinstall. Ya, it's a bigger job than you think...
  15. cgsheen
    About time for another BUMP! We don't ship many of these out of the country. We've shipped a few sets to our Canadian brothers, but we just sent a set to a super nice guy with a really nice Z in Saudi Arabia! If you're anywhere near Saihat, look for Mohammed's 240Z! He has them in hand and I can't wait to see pics of his car once he gets these installed...
  16. cgsheen
    You don't need to pull the dash to remove the blower box.
  17. cgsheen
    Have you unbolted your fuse block and looked at the back side? The B/W from the IGN switch feeds two fuses (3rd and 4th from the top, left side). 3rd: Marked "F" - Green wire out to: Voltage Regulator, Water Temp Relay (except CA), "Check" Connector, A/T something, Catalyzer Hold Relay (CA), Bunch of Cat related stuff for CA models. 4th: Marked "Int" (?) - Blue wire out to: Hazard switch, Fuel Warning lamp, Ignition Interlock, Coolant Temp & Oil Pressure Gauge, Auto Trans Kickdown Switch, Interlock Relay. So... You need Battery Voltage on the B/W that feeds the fuse block. Check the back for heat / melting. Trace the B/W back to the IGN Switch to see why there's no voltage. Check and make sure it's not melted down in the dash harness. I'd want to know why there's no voltage at the fuse block. (The B/W will branch off various ways - From the IGN Switch it also runs over to the passenger side through the dash, goes up the passenger fender well, across the radiator core support, to the coil location...)
  18. cgsheen
    No. The 280ZX blower (and all other Nissans from then on) spin the opposite direction. The blower box is different due to the rotation. Nearly every other model import also. That was my conundrum while I was grazing thru the Pick-A-Part... The only blowers I found that were similar size and set up to spin the same direction as an early Z were the Honda Civic and the Kia...
  19. cgsheen
    I don't think so (at least not this easily), but I'd have to look at the circuit diagram for the Z32. They introduced a "safety circuit" and re-designed the fuel pump circuit at some point. With the Infiniti M30 ECU as an example, you have to rewire the entire circuit back to the fuel pump...
  20. cgsheen
    After the first swap we did, we started just using the ZXT fuel pump relay. It's actually a very simple circuit and then you just need to find the green wire to the fuel pump in the passenger footwell. You simply tie the "output" of the fuel pump relay to the Green (fuel pump voltage) wire in that harness on the passenger floor that runs to the rear of the S30. If you don't have the ZXT relay you can wire another standard relay in it's place. The circuit diagram describes this very well and it's simple to do. As easy as this is, DON'T wire the fuel pump "hot" - let the ECU control the fuel pump like it's supposed to. Much safer that way.
  21. cgsheen
    I'll want a set of two-piece door panels as well. If you build them, I'm assuming we're using our own uppers and covering them as we please.
  22. cgsheen
    Tempe Sales on Broadway west of Mill. Space Age Paint on Country Club in Mesa (South of Broadway)
  23. cgsheen
    Well,, at least somebody there knows that the S30 requires weld-on threaded adapters AND 2" adapters work for the 240Z and early 260Z but not the 280Z... It's as simple as reading their product list. They have pictures too.
  24. cgsheen
    Jon, it's a common "side bulb on welt" type of weatherstrip. We have a few stores in our area that carry long rolls of it and sell it by the foot. (I only pulled Kia weatherstrip once - now I just buy new in the exact length I want) I'd be surprised if there weren't a store or two near you that carried it. One here is an auto-paint / restoration supply shop that sells retail. Two of them are "Fabric Outlets" that sell odd lots of upholstery material for home, auto, and marine. They carry auto upholstery, weatherstrip, and carpet (trunk liner, head liner, foams, etc.). Hot Rod shop may carry it too...
  25. cgsheen
    That is awesome... Great watercolor - Congratulations!
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