clarkspeed

That is pretty cool. But those rotor choices are enormous, heavy, and expensive. I am taking my setup from 12.19x1.25 down to 11.75dia on a 8 x 7 BC. Common as dirt circle track size, cheap, lighter, and more than adquate for my application. Still pretty cool they released those.

nice car

I am also in the middle of building a tube car. Not for the faint of heart! If you search the classifieds I think there still are some pictures of the partially finished shell I purchased from Chris Leone. He had already completed a full roll cage and front end. I ended up redoing most of the front clip and I'm now finishing up the floor, trans tunnel, firewall, etc. Slow going when you only get maybe 6 hours/week to work on it. Maybe some day I will start a build thread on Hybrid. Eventually it will become a IMSA GTU tribute car. A lot depends on how much you need to replace. Most of the rear of my car was intact, but no floors, firewall, or front. If you can save/restore/reinforce the strut towers and frame rails I think it makes an easier project. Brace everything out before you start cutting out panels. That is assuming you are not building a race car. The project gets a lot more involved if you need to locate and square suspension mounts, then you need to build up on a flat plate. And you start thinking about all those compromises you might like to fix like Tube80z mentioned. You can probably do it all with square tubing if you don't put in a cage. But I found I can lighten things up quite a bit since I have the cage providing structure. Either way plan way way ahead on what you want to do and don't "build as you go". And you had better know how to weld and how to identify a good or bad weld. Google for the MGB tube build thread. Might give you some ideas of what to do and not to do. Like mentioned above, he built up the entire car and it came in at 2400# or something like that.

That is a clue. There can be a lot of difference between radial and bias. To dial them in will most likely will require some testing with different pressure, camber and toe settings. The difference in tire spring rates might also require a spring rate change. It takes a little time. I would expect some oversteer or instability under trail braking in that condition, but none mentioned. That's why I ask. And it didn't look like Dan is running a splitter. I've seen some strange things over the years and what works for some people may not work for others. Sometimes the answer is don't trail brake so much. I think getting the tires to work is most important. If the overall grip is off, and you are "rolling over the tires" rather than "skating on ice", then stiffer is the way to go. I agree with your direction because tires are a lot gripper these days. Either pressure change )1psi = 60-80lbs/in) which you already tried, or spring rates. I wouldn't call 500/425 soft for a production based S30, but you should go higher if the car/tires are asking for it.

That looks like a VW Golf trail braking! Dan is running a fairly stiff set up and looks to have a good deal of mechanical grip in the pic. Going stiffer might cure the problem, but always remember every change has a secondary effect. What is the real problem here? Oveall grip? Corner entry understeer or oversteer? Grip levels and getting the handling right are much more important than trying to cure the wheel lift. It works good for a VW, maybe it works for you too!

A tech article from Driven Race Oils by Lake Speed their Lubrication Engineer talking about using ATF as an engine oil. It depends on how long you want to use it and load conditions. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/oils-lubricatebut-long-conditions/ Also a good basic article on engine oils. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/racing-oil-101/ They also have plenty of info on zinc and why you need or don't need it in other articles. I heard Lake speak at the MSC expo last year and it was very informative.

I use a Griffen double pass. It was from some Ford app that had the right width. I used aluminum tubing and silicone connectors from Silicon Intake Systems to custom plumb it.

OMG!

Absolutely. I'm not a lubrication engineer by any stretch, but can only repeat what oil company reps and professional engine builders have told me. The oil cushion on start up is quite critical to bearing wear on both passenger and race cars. There really is no protection until the shaft is rotating and a wedge is allowed to form.in the bearing. A thiner weight oil provides enhanced protection during this period and is faster to form the wedge. That's why you see so many passenger cars moving toward the 0W-5W multigrades and most race cars running multigrades. Of course a sump heater would make a difference also. BTW, I was also told there were only 3 synthetic oil base manufacturers, Exxon, Chevron, and BP. And only 4 additive manufacturers. The secret is in the mix of course, but it is not that big a secret. It's more of blending for a particular market or application. Diesel oils, like your Rotella, are blended with higher detergent additives. Race oils are blended more with additives that resist fuel contamination and the degregation that comes from it.

I just read this post. Low pressure could have been the oil pump. Make sure to change it out on rebuild. As far as oil, there is plenty of info on the web. Bobistheoilguy. How hard you push it on track and how much you spent on that engine should influence your decision. I stay away from additives and straight weight oils. Most damage happens on start up. For a severe duty L6 stick with a multi-grade at least 40w or more for higher temps and to allow margin for some degredation. 40W oil turns into 35W oil when contaminates are introduced.

This has me thinking again. What is the best way to quantify lateral g's? It's pretty much a normal distribution of data. At the Runoffs we saw almost identical G's from Hoosier R7 DOT's and slicks. Peaks at 1.8, but when I look at a smoothed plot the average is more like 1.25. And that is typically what I find when taking an average for 1/2 second or so continous loading.

LNA in Greensboro. Sam will build you some power.

I guess I just saw your earlier post, what RPM were you shifting at? It's not a trival task to have a 8k RPM engine with the big bore and stroke. Better to shoot for something that will deliver power < 7200RPM and use that big flat torque curve to your advantage coming out of the corners with a crappy ratio Nissan transmission. I'm sure it can be done if you pay attention to the details, and Rebello may report a high limit, but in the last couple of years I have seen 3 oversize engines wipe bearings when rev'd often over 7k. And one was mine. I know there are a lot of theories on this with vibration and all, but the simple solution is keep the rev's down.

Perfect

Balance the lower assembly, get the bearing clearances dead on, ARP rod bolts and main studs, accusump, then go race. Stuff happens sometimes.

Really? That is some serious downforce. That's much more than any of the cars I've worked with.

At far as caster and camber, Im setting up a car now on jack stands without hubs. A digital angle gauge on strut works fine for locating things.

I flip mine around all the time. Only use the 2 close holes and shaved the washers to fit together.

Double A arms are the best solution if legal, no doubt. Every purpose built race car has them for a reason. Better camber control. The Koni upper bushing wear is most common problem. Not sure why it happens in some cars and not others. Weight? I know some 240's that race forever on them. The Bilstein P30's are bullet proof. 450# is no problem. But not an easy task to get the valving right. But it easy to get sort of close.

On the engine, I also have a Nissan comp pan but have noticed my Accusump working in 6 and 7 before. Seems 6 loads the oil up on left side and then throwing it into 7 really pulls it out of sump. Noticed it most when my oil pump was marginal. As far as incident, that is tragic. A little oil can make a big problem. On other hand, a couple years ago a guy left his drain plug out and oiled down entire back straight. We ran the race with no problems. BB corvette was running 180 there. My guess is something broke. Especially if he made it to the brake zone. When I started HPDE many years ago I stuck with the priority of safety, reliability, and then speed. Hans, 5 pt harness, roll bar, and a single pc firesuit are not overkill.

These are the ones I fabricated using a simple jig. Used a 3/4 x 5/8 for the front rod end and 5/8 x 5/8 for others. Used QA1 rod ends and have about 4 or 5 race weekends on them so far with no problems. Also made some oil-lite bronze bearings for the inner pivot.

2nd the callout for Sun Central Z Club. In Orlando,I get all my work done at Dover Cylinder Head if you cant find anything over there.

Did the oil pressure drop? Turns 6 and 7 will put the oil on 1 side of pan.

Like the dash wiring. Plugs are a great addition.

Bob Leitzenger uses them to build his 510 L20's. I would say it is safe that they know what they are doing. They are well known in the vintage racing circles.