SleeperZ

Yes, 3.54 R200. The 280ZXT T5 is more difficult to install than the Nissan unit, and I know lots of people have had great success with the Nissan unit, but I didn't have one. I like the way the T5 shifts, especially with the Mustang aftermarket short shifter with the hard stops, and I know it handles 400ft-lbs and 11 second 1/4 mile times reliably.

For my 280Z, with L28ET and T5, I managed to find a transmission crossmember that almost lined up with the T5 transmission mount. I don't remember which Z or ZX it came from. I still had to slot the ears of the T5 to get it to fit. I don't know about a factory driveshaft, I had a custom one made for about $250.

I ran a 3.90 in my 280Z, and first gear was essentially useless, so I went back to the 3.54. I cannot attest to the "spooling", but I believe the reason I was able to get a faster ET with the 3.54 is I had one less shift to get to the end of the 1/4 mile. My best was a 12.89 at 110mph, 5600' elevation.

I've been running a T3/T4 with V1/V2 trim for years. Stock turbine, upgraded compressor, bought it from either Motorsport or Jim Cook, and I dynoed 313hp to the wheels at 16 psi.

Yes. Make sure your thermostat is working, your radiator is in good condition and your radiator and reservoir are full. It's easier to keep the engine cool at speed due to the air flowing through the radiator. If you have a coolant flow issue, it will tend to overheat when your engine is working, at speed.

Lowering RPM or changing coolant will not fix an overheating issue. If you are overheating at speed, you may have a closed thermostat or plugged radiator.

That works.

That's a heck of a deal, congratulations.

I have seen your thread on that, and it looks like a good option, especially that it allows more braking torque on the rear with the ability to reduce it with the adjustable proportioning valve. I am not yet certain that will fit inside 15" wheels, although my current solution easily fits inside 14" wheels...

There are some engines and weights for reference here:

Welcome to HybridZ. 1. Nobody runs stock boost with a turbo setup. With an intercooler, the factory Z31 setup makes 300+ hp with no other changes other than 16lb of boost and larger injectors. 2. Please document your claim that centrifugal superchargers make "huge" power with an overdrive and pressure relief. I am not familiar with them, so your description is intriguing to me. I'm not against superchargers in general, but they are not a short-cut to power. A variety of factors must be considered and paid for when designing a particular engine and induction system.

Rear discs should give me better performance because I intend to use Porterfield pads. I do not believe the factory drums can be fitted with a shoe of an equivalent compound, and the factory material is crap. I am already planning to install the 280ZX 15/16 master. My thought on the balance is since my caliper solutions for both front and rear are both essentially stock 280ZX, the brake balance with a 280ZX proportioning valve would be acceptable, but more balanced than a bigger (than 280Z factory) front brake and drums. And if I need more pressure in the back for the track, an adjustable proportioning would be appropriate.

I've been using the 280ZX front calipers for years with some track use. I think most people that run the S30 on the track realize that increasing brake capability on the front without balancing it on the rear will not get much benefit. The benefit I do get is just the vented 300ZX rotor and Porterfield pads last for a few more laps even though they do most of the braking. Of course the stock rear drums do next to nothing with this much front bite, and the diving into turns is extreme. So I am now, finally, doing a rear disc conversion using the '86 Maxima rear caliper and '82 280ZX rear disc. I think this caliper has the easiest interface to the parking brake, even though the late model 280ZX rear caliper has slightly more pad area to the disc. So I'd like to solicit thoughts on this with regard to braking balance. I have less braking grip on the front than if I had used the Toyota caliper. My setup should resemble a late model 280ZX, but with slightly less grip on the rear, assuming the same brake pad compound. I'd thought I should replace the 280Z proportioning valve with the 280ZX valve, but after reading some recent threads in this sub-forum, perhaps I should consider removing the proportioning altogether. My main purpose for the car is casual track use, and not much street use, but I just don't want to rear bias the braking to the point where it becomes unsafe. Maybe my best option is an adjustable proportioning valve, just to be sure? TIA

I understand why you call it the 680, but I think you should call it the 710, as that is the conversion of fluid ounces to milliliters....I like fluids, like beer. BTW, I REALLY like the the color, purists be damned. As a matter of fact I saw no negative comments about the color.

Yes, there is nothing like the sound of an N/A L28, I just love it. But I went turbo because it was bolt in and no internal work needed. Still sounds nice, and the torque of the turbo helps me get over my lack of cash and engine building skills.

I've seen some UK restoration videos, you'd be surprised at how rusty some of those cars get. I bet it would be worth it to source some in the US, that area does not commonly get rust (maybe in the mid-west.)

That's a really impressive fit.

Never heard anyone call any version of the stock L28 a "turd". They are all very good engines, including the L24 and L26, heck even the LD28.

From pictures, it looks like the crank is fully counterweighted, so make sure your pistons, rods and hardware all weigh the same and you should be good. It might be a good idea to check the balance of the crank by itself if you intend to spin it fast.

Wow, 6.7L, that must be quite a handful. Looks good!

Sounds like a good deal if that's all it needs. The car is likely to be quite rusty, so whether you should buy it depends on what you want to do with it.

Ugh, I was secretly hoping he'd lose interest in the project before he took it to his point. I don't think I can watch anymore.

OMG Derek, I know I'm not alone in vicariously living my car fantasies through you. That is amazing.

That looks amazing, very clean. I couldn't see a radiation fan in your pictures, do you have a pusher?

Interesting on the old photos of the full race cage how the main hoop anchors to the front edge of the rear fender well instead of to the floor just in front. Is it as strong or effective? If so, that is ideal for accommodating factory seatbelts for a street legal car, as well as potentially more room for taller drivers.