NewZed

If I'm reading right, the actions above are the last significant actions between when the crankshaft would turn and now, when it doesn't. Seems like the damper (I think you're calling it the crank pulley) reinstallation is the most likely cause. Maybe you jammed the woodruff key past its keyway in to whatever is behind it (I don't know what's behind it, I think more keys and keyways). 100 ft-lbs can do some jamming. Might try loosening the damper bolt or just removing the damper, then using the propeller shaft to rotate the engine. Put the car in gear and roll it. Inspect the woodruff key slots for damage first, might have to be fixed anyway.

A too-long bolt in the thermostat housing will pin the timing chain guide to the chain and sprocket. The threaded hole is open on the back. Not uncommon. Don't forget the belted accessories also. Alternator, AC compressor, water pump and fan.

You said that the clutch works. Not sure how you tested it, but if you have someone press the pedal while you try to turn the engine that should tell you if the transmission input shaft is bound up. Unless the input shaft is jammed inside the crankshaft pilot bearing, disengaging the clutch should leave you with the engine only. If it turns with the clutch pedal down, bit not with it up, then the input shaft is stopping the movement. The transmission output shaft should turn while in gear also, if the clutch is disengaged, since it's the engine and the transmission that are being engaged and disengaged. Except for the pilot bushing. In short, a working clutch system should separate the potential problem areas. Edited - spelling

Can't remember exactly where I saw it, two places I think, but it was very recently: check that you didn't use an overlong bolt to install the slave cylinder. Apparently it's possible to jam the bolt end in to the pressure plate cover that way.

Actually he said the post at the top of the picture, the "A" post, was disconnected. That would explain the lack of charging. He may have fixed that but doesn't realize that he probably blew a fusible link when the wire touched body metal as it was dangling around, shorting the battery. Wiring issues can get out of control.

Here's a picture of the older switch. I really don't know how the older ones work, I've just seen that they need to be reset if they get tripped. Maybe they have a tendency to get stuck? My 76 had the switch and it fixed itself as soon as I fixed the problem (calipers on wrong sides). The OP never said what year car he's working with.

Nissan changed the switch design sometime in the first few years of the 240Z. You're showing the newer design.

MC's have been known to destroy their seals when they see a new part of the bore. The booster just amplifies the force from your leg, Brake fluid is denser than air. There must be some pedal pressure, there's a spring and you're also pushing on the rear brake system.

I got the impression that the TPS should have a value at closed throttle and that MS is then calibrated to that value. In other words, you would tell MS that "6" is closed, and that whatever value the TPS puts out at wide open is 100%. Most sensors always put out a signal and the control system is calibrated to what you want those values to mean.

Here's a clue.

One cable or two? Maybe you're putting them on the wrong terminals. You're not really using that meter are you? You said you "put the meter on the ignition coil" but didn't report any numbers. You can check for a short to ground before you connect the battery. No need to look for sparks.

Hybridz member Nigel has done some nice work in the past. Wrote up the 71C transmission swap for the S30. Seems to know his stuff and he's dug in to the situation you're currently in. Worth a read for sure, maybe the next group. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113199-yet-another-rear-drum-to-disk-conversion-option/

So what are you seeing that's different between the two? Sounds like you think it's a clocking problem, since you mentioned drilling holes. There's a whole calibration procedure described in the Megamanual.

Missed the part about "you were tempted". Thought you already did it. There's a whole long procedure for testing the external regulator in the Engine Electrical chapter. But, it sounds like your L wire has just lost it's connection. I think that is described in FSM also. The simplest of checks is to just turn on the key and check for battery voltage at the T plug on the alternator. When working on electrical stuff, your first action is always to check that power is getting to where it's supposed to be getting. Once you actually use a meter for more than 5 minutes and either confirm power, or confirm no power, you'll never post again about "maybe I should check for power". It will be incomprehensible to not use the meter first. Some people carry meters in their car.

I think that the lines were all essentially the same over the years. Probably the same for all Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti platforms. It's the actuating cylinder sizes that affect pedal effort. The metal lines just allow fluid movement so size doesn't matter. The booster has to fit the mounting studs and clear other parts. The master cylinder should be matched to whatever it's pushing on. An all disc setup would need a different MC than discs and drums to get a good balance of travel, effort, and stopping power.

On 1 - you didn't say anything about rewiring to use an internally regulated alternator. It's not just a bolt-in and go swap. On 2 - have you read page BE-42? At least that's the page in the 1976 FSM. The 1975 version online doesn't seem to have a BE chapter. No signs of any meter measurements either. Take the gauge out and measure at the plug if you can't find the source wire.

Your thread is interesting, but probably not for your original reason. To those who question how an R&P can be cheaper than a set of tires - ivemade is in the region of the world that makes most of the world's stuff.. He just happens to be in the R&P region instead of the tire region. To ivemade - the desirable R&P ratio is determined by the transmission ratios and the tire size. Most cars come in about 12:1 on first gear x rear ratio (for example 3.062 x 3.9 for a 280ZX), and use about a 24 - 25" tire. Many early transmissions had very low first gear ratios, like 3.592 (with the 3.36 rear gear - 12.07) for the early 240Z, but that changed over time to higher first gears, and lower rear gears. So you need to do the math from first gear to tire size to decide what R&P ratio you want. It's interesting outside of your goal, because you know somebody that can make custom ring and pinion gear sets. The ring gear size is not changed when the ratios are modified, it's the number of teeth, with the ring gear size kept the same, to fit the housing and differential carrier. So if your guy really knows what he'd doing, all you need to do is give him a ratio and a ring gear size and he should be able to tell you what he can do, within a certain range, like 27:1, or similar. As I understand things... p.s. my use of terminology could be off.

Thanks. Still not clear what caused the temperature instability to go away (or what caused it in the first place). So you did everything at once, or did 1 first, then 2 and 3 at the same time? And the line from the water pump inlet that comes from the thermostat housing would just allow flow through the pump when the thermostat is closed. Not seeing that correlation. Probably insignificant in stock form but it actually is another short circuit for the pump, but a little different. A loop of coolant that doesn't pass through the radiator. So it cools the engine and head but doesn't get cooled itself. Anyway, it was an interesting problem. If you get a chance and want to add to the body of knowledge you might open up that ball valve and report what happens.

For the record - you did these three things in order, and confirmed the problem still existed for #1 and #2. But it went away when you did #3? I'm kind of nerdy and like the scientific approach. Just wondering.

Sounds like it's flooded, and the plugs are fouled. Remove all of the plugs, clean them up (or replace with new) and let the cylinders dry out. Don't make it complicated. It ran before, you have spark, wet plugs show that there's fuel. Assuming the "wet" is fuel and not coolant. Shops have been known to hoon a customer's car. Is the wetness fuel, for sure?

The comment about the AAR was just a point about things not working right. But it would be worthwhile to make sure it's not stuck open. Anything that lets air get by the throttle blade. Don't forget the EGR system. They've been known to leak. Intake manifold gaskets too. If the engine is running rich, any vacuum leak at all will raise idle speed. You should be able to drop the idle low enough with the idle adjustment screw that the engine dies. The fact that it stays down after stalling the engine seems to point at the BCDD. It's designed to use intake vacuum to determine when to open the bypass port, I think, along with engine speed and a solenoid. Could be that your high idle is self-reinforcing by creating high vacuum. Maybe. The system is described in the Emissions chapter.

It's not the CSV. That valve just adds fuel when starting. The BCDD can do odd things like that. It has a diaphragm that can leak and bypass passages that could get stuck open. Could also be a sticking throttle blade. Either linkage or gummed up in the throttle bore. All of these things have caused a high idle for many people in the past. Try pulling up on the throttle pedal with your toe to see if it's the linkage or blade. The BCDD is harder to diagnose. If the vacuum advance hose was on the wrong port then other things may have been messed with. The 800-900 RPM right after starting indicates your AAR isn't doing its job. "my latest breakthrough was moving the vac advance line from intake mani to the throttle body which fixed numerous idle/power issues. " Some background on who installed the engine and when would help give some context. Problems from nowhere are tough to figure out.

I've only been on the site a few years but even I can see that your numbers seem all wrong. Way lean for a turbo, even lean for a performance NA. Timing is completely off, actually probably impossible to be there, the engine wouldn't start. Slipping clutch so you don't really know what power output is. You should start from scratch and confirm things like TDC, measure cylinder pressure to get an idea of CR, adjust the carb for more fuel at the critical portions of the power curve. Stuff like that. Not sure you'll get a lot of advice with what you're reporting because the situation is probably incomprehensible for the guys who do turbo. And, don't forget, dyno numbers can vary by dyno and operator. Comparing numbers is pointless.

Reorganized some phrases. Basically, your problem is that fuel pressure drops below the normal 26 - 36 psi range it should be in when off-boost. Zero means that the pump isn't pumping, there's a blockage between the pump and pressure gauge, or that the FPR is stuck wide open. Your assumption is probably off. Cavitation and heat are not a direct correlation. Vaporization is not cavitation. "Vapor lock" does not cause cavitation. Just saying, these are all relevant words, they just don't really fit what you're seeing. Forget about heat and cavitation for a while and confirm the basics. Pump power, supply to the pump inlet from the tank, etc. If the problem lasts eight hours, that's plenty of time to get underneath and do some looking and measuring.

And a bunch of MAF settings that have to be set - http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/ms3pro_manual.pdf/ms3pro_manual-140.html Pretty sure I saw that you can run on MAP and use the MAF for other things. Probably what you're doing. But it allows you to drive the car until the MAF is right. Good luck.