NewZed

How about a W? W24. Here's one link that a Google popped up. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/110832-w24-block-n47-head.html Are you looking in the right spot, above/around the left side motor mount? Might be looking at the wrong number. Edit - the spot looks about right by the picture - http://www.xenons30.com/Engine.html Looks like a Maxima block - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67452-w24/

You could run two legs from the cross-member up to the old diff strap mount holes. The diff strap mounting bolts would be in shear and would stop the motion. Basically a boxed mount off of the cross-member with the two tongues sticking out front to hold the diff nose. It would be stronger but still puts a bending load on the tongues. Adding two more legs diagonally from somewhere close to the front of the tongues back and up to the diff strap mount hole areas would help that problem, making the tongues shorter. If there's room. As an assembly it might be pretty big and bulky.

That diff mount design puts a twisting motion on the four mounting bolts of the cross-member. The nose of the diff is pulling up on a fairly long lever arm with the four bolts of the cross-member as the fulcrum. It wouldn't be surprising if the heads of the bolts broke off eventually.

AEM says yours won't do internal "igniter" coils, the system has its own dwell control. Anyway, the LS2 coil itself isn't extremely powerful, it's the coil and its control system combined that get things done. You could probably find a way to bypass/hack the LS2 coils' internal igniter, which might be fun, but there must be comparable "dumb" coils out there. There's an AEM forum out there that might have some ideas - http://www.aempower.com

Does the AEM Series 1 do COP (near/at) or individual coil control. There's not much out on the internet about the AEM Series 1. Did you get instructions with it? Post a part number, the Series 1 probably wasn't named until they came out with Series 2. Most of the AEM internet stuff is about plug-n-play in to factory harnesses.

More details? Year, bumper style, wheels... There are a lot of brown Z's out there. There must have been something special about the one you thought was yours.

The PRW-2 transistor might be a better option. Does the same thing as the original, and designed for it. Pasted a link below. Most of the improvements cited in the thread are probably the same as those you feel after you wash your car. The ECU controls timing and dwell, no reason for a different transistor to have any effect.. It's a start but you'll have to put some thought in to the wiring. The second link has wiring diagrams. http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?17796-Upgrade-to-PRW-2-Ign-Control-Module-(Power-Transistor-Unit) http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Actually Stagg shows two different part numbers for the front of a 280Z. 552205 and 552206. Posting the three links that you probably looked at. The Brand page even shows the two gland nuts, so at least the pictures represent what they ship. Maybe someone at Stagg and/or Brand will see it and do some housekeeping. http://staggshocks.com/Stagg%20AG/Stagg%20AG%2075-78%20Nissan%20280Z.html http://www.brandcarparts.com/1975-1978-nissan-280z-stagg-front-shocks-and-struts-2.html http://www.brandcarparts.com/1975-1978-nissan-280z-stagg-rear-shocks-and-struts-2.html Edit - Stagg shows the same part numbers, with the same error, for the 240Z. They probably got their fronts and rears switched and put both 240Z and 280Z numbers on the page. Maybe 280Z rear is actually 552206, and 552205 (which you got) is the 240Z rear. Brand doesn't list part numbers, only application, so the order process is kind of screwed up. http://staggshocks.com/Stagg%20AG/Stagg%20AG%2070-73%20Nissan%20240Z.html Did your old gland nuts fit tightly on the top of the shock?

Put "Trident Engineering" in your thread title. It will catch the eye of anyone who might know. "Help ID motor" does not attract the eye. The machine work on that valve cover probably cost some time.

Thank you for the apostrophes. There is at least one thread in the last month on installing a GM V8 in to a 280ZX. Try searching V8 280Zx and see what happens. Use Google since the Hybridz search engine doesn't do two letter words. site:hybridz.org v8 280zx 2014 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118786-looking-for-v8-kit-for-a-83-280zx/ http://forums.hybridz.org/user/29243-daflyinghawaiin/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118569-l98-tpi-vs-lt1-swap-in-280zx/

The materials and process being used are very modern and will give a very high-strength product when done. But for what the part is, it seems over-designed. Unless it's meant to add rigidity to the body. Not to put a damper on progress, just a statement. Once the mold is built, you could spray chopped fiber and polyester resin, or even pour urethane or urea foam around an inserted framework. Done right, it could even have a soft touch to it, like the original. If he wants to make some money, shooting for volume might be the way to go. Another perspective. Carpenters think about wood and nails, mechanics think about metal and bolts. If you work with pre-preg and have an autoclave, everything looks like a structural piece.

Droop limiters?

Actually, there are more variations than just four. I only know what I've picked up from various magazines and the internet over the years. http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/efi-systems

Were I you I would ask - Was the engine rebuilt professionally (by whom, if so), or was it rebuilt in the owner's garage? What exactly does "rebuilt" mean? Where are the receipts? Which of the four FAST EFI systems is being used? Where is the dyno sheet? Then take it for a drive and see how it runs. Many people think that new gaskets and rings is a rebuild. Or new pistons and rings. Or just new gaskets. Your biggest problem is that you've been driving a newer maintenance-free car, and don't seem comfortable with engine work. You should probably take someone that knows engines along. People blow up fresh engines with turbos sometimes, just trying to tune them. Parts-wise, a professionally rebuilt engine, with a new FAST EFI system that works.might be worth the money alone. But an old engine with new pistons (because detonation destroyed the old ones) and a poorly tuned EFI system maybe not so much. The messed-up wiring has to make you wonder about the engine work. It does look interesting though.

If you're comfortable with wiring and wiring diagrams the S and L wires can be figured out from the Electrical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html Napaonline sometimes has a diagram for their parts. Like the Bosch reman, there's a PDF file about Bosch plug pinouts. Click on "Voltage Regulator Plugs: pdf file. Looks like H7 style, Hitachi. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Alternator-Remfd-90-Amp/_/R-BSAAL338X_0416358641 Rockauto.com has pictures of the plug area. Piece everything together and it's figurable.

Here's a start. Also, don't forget to look at the other side of the box.

Some say that you're fine with urethane on both sides if you also replace the inner control arm bushing. If it's worn the arm won't be in its correct location and stresses the end of the TC rod. You'll know you have a problem if you hear a lot of groaning as the front suspension works. Mine groaned until the end of a rod broke off. The groaning went away after I replaced the rear bushing with rubber. Eventually I replaced the inner control arm bushings but never put the urethane back on the backside of the TC rod. It really serves little purpose anyway since it sees little load except when the brakes are applied in reverse. The rod end breaks because the stiff urethane pushes on the tip if the rod, flexing it at the shoulder of the threaded area. That's where mine broke, after I nudged the curb in reverse lightly while parallel parking.. The end of the break had signs of flex fatigue, the curb finished it off.

Didn't Nissan have a similar concept for their hydraulic clutches? Used on the Pathfinders, probably others with big tires. Maybe it could be adapted for the GM system. If GM doesn't already have something.

There's some good information collected here - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

I don't think this makes sense. It's either/or, I believe. Search for the word "coil" and you'll find some good stuff here: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3trouble.htm

The ride height is about right, but he'll still have no droop even after fixing the fender wells and flares. The shock is topped out. It needs to sit somewhere between the limits, not at the top, I think, for a good ride. Just another consideration. The one inch from the 280Z top hat would give one inch of droop, if you choose to stay at 6" ride height, I believe. Looks like some math and parts matching ahead.

Meth lab or natural gas leak? NBD = No Big Deal? Really?

I had a slave cylinder once that only leaked in the middle of its travel. So it would hold pressure and seemed to move from start to finish of the pedal travel but wasn't moving the full distance. Got worse when it was hot. The sure sign that there was a leak was fluid behind the rubber boot. It should always be dry in there. Pop the boot off and look for fluid. I imagine something similar could happen at the master cylinder. The parts store hydraulics sometimes arrive from the manufacturer dirty with machining grit. So a new part can sometimes fail quickly. On adjusting - basically you want a small amount of play between the pedal and the actuating rod. And you want the slave cylinder piston to be starting near the bottom of its bore. But the slave is easy because if you have the rod to the fork too short the piston will just pop out or leak fluid. The first thing you should do is check the boot on the slave cylinder for fluid. It can hold quite a bit without leaking.

The dash? You mean gauges? Or power for the engine management system (the motor)? Carburetors or fuel injection? Not clear what you're looking for.

This would mean the struts/shocks are fully extended. The simple answer would be different shocks. No idea which. Maybe you have a mismatched set of parts, with the sectioning and the GC kit and the shocks.. Is that a 240Z? Could be a 280 with 240 lights and bumpers.