NewZed

With a Hall sensor don't you just increase the voltage to get better S/N? Maybe your input voltage is low. Seems like you're missing the benefit of going to Hall sensor over VR. I think the main purpose of developing the Hall effect sensors was to get a consistent square wave signal of pre-determined voltage, or strength, much greater than any noise on the line. Isn't there something in the data logs that shows output voltage from the sensor? Seems like you should be able to better quantify and optimize the signal you're using, than just spinning the trigger wheel and hoping the pulse count is right. The problem seems to be more difficult than it should be.

The 280Z and 280ZX used the same transmissions. Problems in the 280Z will probably be the same in a 280ZX. You might have less space in the transmission tunnel with a 280ZX though, so the two inch move might be take some hammer work. ZX's seem generally more cramped for space than the Z's, by eye, although I've never had a ZX so don't know for sure. You will probably be the first to do this swap. Good luck. Read these: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111158-my-cheap-z32rb26-tranny-shifter-bracket/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/47599-z32-tranny-install-writeup/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101735-z32-transmission-adapter-kits-for-l28/

Might be color. I have a 1/76 with silver nuts. I just went out and tried a black nut that I pulled from a 77. They're identical. Except color. Nissan has a surprising quantity of parts still available for these cars. If your local dealer can't get them Courtesy might be able to. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/WindshieldWiper/tabid/1675/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/nut-lock-p-311583.html

The 3.54 R180 was used up to 1983, at least. Copied the 1983 specs. from the FSM. Only 31 years old! I see them around occasionally in the wrecking yards. They cost about $90 around here.

Looks like you had it pretty close in Post #1. Just replace Tokico Illuminta and Spring Kit with KYB and Eibach lowering springs. You had new urethane bump stops on your list already. Then beware of bumps, either large or hitting at high speed. That's the intermediate cost option. Even cheaper would be to cut your stock springs. The assumption is that you're replacing to get the car lower for street driving, not go racing.

Wouldn't this show in the wear pattern of the teeth? If not worn in already, it should show up on the bench with some marking and turning. No measurement tools needed except a good eye.

Well, good luck with it. Engine RPM can be affected by three things - air supply, air/fuel ratio, and timing. Timing is a possibility but if you had your vacuum advance connected to full-time vacuum I would have expected idle speed to increase and stay high. Engine speed affects fuel pressure through the FPR vacuum hose, and timing advance through the advance diaphragm. Maybe disconnect those things, then start the engine and see if fuel pressure varies, or behavior changes. Here's an odd possibility - there's a rag or piece of paper stuck in the air intake that gets lifted and blocks air flow at higher RPM, then falls off and lets air in when RPM drop. RPM increase, air block, RPM decrease, aor open, etc.... It's probably a fuel supply issue though.

What does the above mean? And what are you adjusting? The vacuum gauge doesn't do you much good with the idle speed jumping up and down. The weird idle could be from a loose, undamped AFM vane, causing fuel enrichment to jump up and down. Check that the weight is still attached, they've been known to fall off. Or the AFM spring is so loose (maybe too much adjustment) that the vane is bouncing around. Take the cover off and hold the counterweight and see if idle stabilizes.

I have a 78 ECU in my 76. The manual transmission Federal models seem to be the same over the years. The oil pump switch for the fuel pump showed up in 78. Of course, Nissan could have started early with some late 77's. A look at the AFM plug, and probing with a meter would tell.

A cheap axle option might be shown at about 6:55 in the video linked here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117369-awesome-240z-on-youtube/

You should be able to create sparks all day long without harming or overheating anything. That's what happens when the engine is running. And it's actually "easier" for the coil to discharge across a fouled plug than a clean gap. Blowing a 20 amp fuse consistently is not good. There's something not right. Might be that your "dwell" or coil primary "on" time is too long. The coil primary circuits aren't getting broken to discharge the coils, and the long dwell is causing your fuse to blow. Or you have a short on the coil ground side that isn't allowing a complete circuit break. I would double-check the coil circuits and settings. Just a some impartial observations. I don't have any idea what specific MS circuits or settings would be involved.

Apparently I edited while you replied. You got my typo. Good catch. They're just the holes left over from casting the parts, plugged to complete the job. Occasionally they pop out when the coolant freezes. But it's just a coincidence, not intentional. Described in the link I added above.

Core plug. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

The early tachs "watch" current flow on the positive wire to the coil, as I understand things. Either a threshold current or voltage rise and drop needs to be reached, I assume. Somehow, you need to get similar action on that wire. There's probably a way to do it using resistors and/or re-wiring or another circuit from MS that follows cylinder firing. The later tachs, like the 280Z's, follow the action on the coil negative wire. Probably just voltage rises and drops past some trigger value, since there is a hefty resistor on the the tachometer wire circuit in a 280Z. Get in to the principles and you might be able to fake something.

On the slotted spindle pins - is the slot wide enough to allow the bolt movement side-to-side? The nut on one end is going to pull the bolt in and clamp things down until it stops on either the lock pin or the bolt head. Just wondering if the slot is for anti-rotation alone or side-to-side location purpose, or both.

That's impressive and kind of weird. Is this home-made cider vinegar or some special brand? How do we reproduce these results?

Print the drawing from #3 and take it and your axle to the machinist. Replace six holes with four. Another complication to consider if you do make a thinner adapter - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54719-cv-adapter-to-cv-shaft-issue-does-not-bolt-down-against-mating-surface/ There's threads everywhere on this topic. Here's another adapter. It's six bolt and looks thick. I wonder if guys are making them thick to get the axle nut to clear the CV end-cap. More measurements needed. http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/products/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

Back to your original dilemma, to trust the shop, or to trust your faulty measurements: probably best to get the right measurements before you do anything. You can't make a good decision until you know what you're dealing with.

Don't have an answer but curious if you mean that .005" is the range that you get measuring the same spot (your measurement error range), or if you mean that the head thickness varies by .005", from side-to-side, end-to-end. They're both bad, one means you're not sure what your measurements really are, the other means the shop didn't keep things very parallel and/or flat.

Don't they all look like that at the bottom. It's the rest of the tube and its bends that matter, right? The whole thing.

These might help. "fe" is for Fuel and Exhaust. The attached picture is from the 1982 version. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

I did a little more looking around and found that DIYA specifies that they're Hall sensor works with their square-tooth wheels. Implying that they don't work well with the pointy teeth wheels. So the sensor might not work with the 24-2 Toyota wheel (I have no idea what tooth shape Toyota has). http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/trigger_wheels_index.htm For anyone thinking about just getting a DIYA Hall sensor to solve a trigger problem. There's more to it.

I think that this guy used to make a kit for the L6 engine. Worth a look, and maybe an e-mail, he would probably know, or might make a custom one for you. http://www.mazworx.com/products/drivetrain/enginetrans-adapter-kits/complete-adapter-kits/

The cap only lets air in, through a spring-loaded valve. Not out. There's no easy solution. Unless you confused air escaping with air entering. Air entering wouldn't cause a "burn" though. Find the charcoal canister, or the lines to it, and make them work. p.s. Use more capital letters.

Just a note for anyone getting 404 errors. This seems to work to get to the page that comes up in the search engine - insert index.php in between org/ and /topic. Before ................hybridz.org/topic/............. After ...............hybridz.org/index.php/topic/................... Just something to use to get by in the meantime. Edit - the above doesn't work anymore. Google brings up a link with the word forum now, instead of topic. Completely replace the word forum with index.php/topic and you'll get there. Hopefully this is irrelevant after Friday.