NewZed

Unless you're injecting in sequential mode, back-of-the-valve targeting isn't really significant, from my learnings. Only one intake valve will actually be open per injection event in batch mode, two in semi-batch. Apparently, even good vaporization out of the injector isn't that significant either, except for emissions purposes. That's why the primitive Nissan injectors (from Denso or Nippon-Denso?) shoot a narrow stream even though the Bosch design of the time, that they're based on, sprayed a cloud. Just some thoughts. It looks great in the minds eye to see a cloud of fuel vapor thrusting past the intake valve to do its work. But it doesn't seem to add up to much, in reality. I learned most of this from a French model on the internet, Beware. Forgot to say that I've had a set of Bosch injectors (028 150 116), that sprayed a nice big beautiful cloud of vapor, on my stock 1978 L28 and EFI system, and a set of original 1978 Nissan injectors, that sprayed a tiny jet stream of fuel, and they ran and idled essentially identically. That's why it's in mind. I built a flow tester to test flow rates, leakage, and see injection form. Results were kind of disappointing, but kind of comforting also. One less thing to be concerned about.

The number of teeth doesn't really matter for traction control, does it? It's the rate of change in rotational speed that the unit monitors. As long as the unit gets a good signal from the sensor teeth it should do what it's designed to do.

The rear crankshaft seal is the wearing part. You can replace it from underneath the car with the transmission out and dust cover removed. I don't think that those "stop-leak"s for oil work for long. They have swelling agents that soften the seals, I believe, but the material also weakens and wears faster. The leaks come back.

If the switch is stuck closed when it's in the transmission, then opens when you remove it, the next place to look would be in the transmission, or at how the switch is seated. Could be that the switch you installed sits too deep and closes the circuit. But first you need to know if the switch itself opens and closes like it should, then go from there.

Sounds like the harness shorts out when it's connected to the switch. Make it stop doing that. Either add some insulation or bend the two tabs on the switch farther apart. IF the switch is correct AND disconnecting the harness turns the lights off, that's the only possible cause. By "switch is correct" I mean that it's open circuit when the trans is not in reverse and closed when it is. Use a meter or test light to be sure.

Which gears? All of them? 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5? And are you really banging gears like you're trying to break something, or just shifting fast? The synchro gears just match gear speeds, there's not really much to get stuck there. Sounds more like you've damaged the shift rods, balls and adapter plate with the gear-banging. The balls aren't dropping back to their neutral locations. If you take it apart to look at the synchros, you'll see those parts anyway. But I'm just guessing. duragg knows these transmission details by heart. Give better details and someone might know for sure.

Did the car have the vibration before you installed all of the new stuff? If yes, then it's probably stuff that was already on the car. If no, then it's probably the new stuff.

My thought, more fully-formed, is that tuning the MS side for problems picking up the teeth is pointless (pun!) if you're getting a square wave from the sensor and MS uses it correctly. As you said, you're getting a solid zero or twelve volt square signal at MS, so MS has what it needs. Noise at the sensor would just add more zeros and twelves, noise on the wire to the sensor would add some intermediate voltages that the VR circuit would use to trigger. Shielding on the wire from MS to the sensor might help. In other words, if you're getting a clean sensor square wave, just too many of them, then the problem is on the wheel side of the sensor. If you're getting too many voltage spikes that the VR circuit sees as a trigger, then the problem is noise in between the sensor and the MS board. I don't know if MS datalogs will pick that up. An oscilloscope probably would. Just trying to break it in to logical pieces. Don't try to work on all of it once. Seems like you're trying changes on both sides of the sensor, and at the sensor.

With a Hall sensor don't you just increase the voltage to get better S/N? Maybe your input voltage is low. Seems like you're missing the benefit of going to Hall sensor over VR. I think the main purpose of developing the Hall effect sensors was to get a consistent square wave signal of pre-determined voltage, or strength, much greater than any noise on the line. Isn't there something in the data logs that shows output voltage from the sensor? Seems like you should be able to better quantify and optimize the signal you're using, than just spinning the trigger wheel and hoping the pulse count is right. The problem seems to be more difficult than it should be.

The 280Z and 280ZX used the same transmissions. Problems in the 280Z will probably be the same in a 280ZX. You might have less space in the transmission tunnel with a 280ZX though, so the two inch move might be take some hammer work. ZX's seem generally more cramped for space than the Z's, by eye, although I've never had a ZX so don't know for sure. You will probably be the first to do this swap. Good luck. Read these: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111158-my-cheap-z32rb26-tranny-shifter-bracket/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/47599-z32-tranny-install-writeup/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101735-z32-transmission-adapter-kits-for-l28/

Might be color. I have a 1/76 with silver nuts. I just went out and tried a black nut that I pulled from a 77. They're identical. Except color. Nissan has a surprising quantity of parts still available for these cars. If your local dealer can't get them Courtesy might be able to. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/WindshieldWiper/tabid/1675/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/nut-lock-p-311583.html

The 3.54 R180 was used up to 1983, at least. Copied the 1983 specs. from the FSM. Only 31 years old! I see them around occasionally in the wrecking yards. They cost about $90 around here.

Looks like you had it pretty close in Post #1. Just replace Tokico Illuminta and Spring Kit with KYB and Eibach lowering springs. You had new urethane bump stops on your list already. Then beware of bumps, either large or hitting at high speed. That's the intermediate cost option. Even cheaper would be to cut your stock springs. The assumption is that you're replacing to get the car lower for street driving, not go racing.

Wouldn't this show in the wear pattern of the teeth? If not worn in already, it should show up on the bench with some marking and turning. No measurement tools needed except a good eye.

Well, good luck with it. Engine RPM can be affected by three things - air supply, air/fuel ratio, and timing. Timing is a possibility but if you had your vacuum advance connected to full-time vacuum I would have expected idle speed to increase and stay high. Engine speed affects fuel pressure through the FPR vacuum hose, and timing advance through the advance diaphragm. Maybe disconnect those things, then start the engine and see if fuel pressure varies, or behavior changes. Here's an odd possibility - there's a rag or piece of paper stuck in the air intake that gets lifted and blocks air flow at higher RPM, then falls off and lets air in when RPM drop. RPM increase, air block, RPM decrease, aor open, etc.... It's probably a fuel supply issue though.

What does the above mean? And what are you adjusting? The vacuum gauge doesn't do you much good with the idle speed jumping up and down. The weird idle could be from a loose, undamped AFM vane, causing fuel enrichment to jump up and down. Check that the weight is still attached, they've been known to fall off. Or the AFM spring is so loose (maybe too much adjustment) that the vane is bouncing around. Take the cover off and hold the counterweight and see if idle stabilizes.

I have a 78 ECU in my 76. The manual transmission Federal models seem to be the same over the years. The oil pump switch for the fuel pump showed up in 78. Of course, Nissan could have started early with some late 77's. A look at the AFM plug, and probing with a meter would tell.

A cheap axle option might be shown at about 6:55 in the video linked here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117369-awesome-240z-on-youtube/

You should be able to create sparks all day long without harming or overheating anything. That's what happens when the engine is running. And it's actually "easier" for the coil to discharge across a fouled plug than a clean gap. Blowing a 20 amp fuse consistently is not good. There's something not right. Might be that your "dwell" or coil primary "on" time is too long. The coil primary circuits aren't getting broken to discharge the coils, and the long dwell is causing your fuse to blow. Or you have a short on the coil ground side that isn't allowing a complete circuit break. I would double-check the coil circuits and settings. Just a some impartial observations. I don't have any idea what specific MS circuits or settings would be involved.

Apparently I edited while you replied. You got my typo. Good catch. They're just the holes left over from casting the parts, plugged to complete the job. Occasionally they pop out when the coolant freezes. But it's just a coincidence, not intentional. Described in the link I added above.

Core plug. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

The early tachs "watch" current flow on the positive wire to the coil, as I understand things. Either a threshold current or voltage rise and drop needs to be reached, I assume. Somehow, you need to get similar action on that wire. There's probably a way to do it using resistors and/or re-wiring or another circuit from MS that follows cylinder firing. The later tachs, like the 280Z's, follow the action on the coil negative wire. Probably just voltage rises and drops past some trigger value, since there is a hefty resistor on the the tachometer wire circuit in a 280Z. Get in to the principles and you might be able to fake something.

On the slotted spindle pins - is the slot wide enough to allow the bolt movement side-to-side? The nut on one end is going to pull the bolt in and clamp things down until it stops on either the lock pin or the bolt head. Just wondering if the slot is for anti-rotation alone or side-to-side location purpose, or both.

That's impressive and kind of weird. Is this home-made cider vinegar or some special brand? How do we reproduce these results?

Print the drawing from #3 and take it and your axle to the machinist. Replace six holes with four. Another complication to consider if you do make a thinner adapter - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54719-cv-adapter-to-cv-shaft-issue-does-not-bolt-down-against-mating-surface/ There's threads everywhere on this topic. Here's another adapter. It's six bolt and looks thick. I wonder if guys are making them thick to get the axle nut to clear the CV end-cap. More measurements needed. http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/products/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/