NewZed

Beware the difference in combustion chamber volumes. Those two heads are not the same. You could also have an exhaust port and manifold issue with the N42. Neither or your replacement choices would be considered a direct swap option for an N47.

Not bad. Keep an eye on it for melting or deformation. The material used was most likely not intended for high heat.

It will work, they're interchangeable. Get a Zerk fitting and re-grease the u-joints before installing.

If it's not standing off of the radiator body it's just blocking flow through over half of the radiator. Better to leave it open for high air flow at speed and guaranteed air flow, through the fan, when stopped.

Get on to Rockauto.com. Drivetrain>Universal Joint. Looks like Dana Holding Corporation owns Spicer. www.rockauto.com

I'm just trying to have some fun while making a point. You obviously had a gauge connected but didn't measure the most important number. Almost every thread you'll see on measuring fuel pressure mentions 36.3 psi. Hard to understand why it wasn't done. I think the criticism was deserved and well-delivered. Good luck and carry on...

You haven't even mentioned the most basic pressure measurement, pressure without the FPR vacuum hose attached. The base pressure. Rig something up to see the pressure when the problem happens. You could have done both of these in the time it took to write your post. There's a story they tell in philosophy courses about the old philosophers sitting around looking at a horse trying to deduce how may teeth it has in its head, based on how and what it eats. When all they need to do is open up its mouth and count. Seems like you have more of a philosophical than a practical leaning.

A piece of string and a tread groove? Works well if you're shooting for zero.

Did the distributor work before (see the FSM for setting gap and testing the pickup coil, if not)? How do you know the HEI module isn't working (check for spark)? Have you tested the coil + and - terminals for voltage with the key at On and Start? Have you confirmed ground from the mounting grommets on the module? Get a meter and do the basic tests.

Disconnect the battery and measure voltage again. You're not comprehending what the numbers are telling you. Forgot to say that you should not have an external regulator.

14.8 and 13.5 show that your alternator and its internal regulator are working correctly, although that's a big drop between the alternator and the battery. Check for current flow with the engine off. You have something connected to the harness draining power. If you just installed something electrical disconnect it and see if the problem goes away.

Your battery needs replacing or a good charge. Disconnecting the battery with the engine running can damage an alternator, don't do that anymore. Are you really ready to swap a motor?

Found this article on cnet.com. Kind of amusing. Might be appropriate for an Automotive 101 sub-forum. http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-34980_7-57617077/oily-bits-the-cylinder-head-and-valve-train/

These are not good criteria for choosing an engine.

Part of the Factory Service Manual. Has dimensions for "tramming", which is apparently what straightening a bent chassis is called. Good general descriptions of what's important on the body also. You can't go wrong by at least reading the first few pages. I haven't done this kind of work but if I was I would probably tie the strut towers, front and back, together with a tower brace on each, then set the body down on a level surface with pillars supporting the body at the tower tops. Or at the inner control arm mounts. No suspension. That's just a first inclination though, there may be better ways.

You can also check the Body chapter after you're done to see how badly warped things are. Or before.

From about 72 on the drivetrain is entirely rubber-mounted. Rubber donuts on the ends of the transmission cross member, so no precision on alignment. There was a thread a little while ago that mentioned the effect of the floor panels. Some said they had little effect, but one member said that their body got a little rubbery with the floor panels removed. Search the internet for monocoque chassis articles and you'll probably find a few references to the effect of every surface of the body on stiffness. They'll make you wonder if you should even put flat sheet in the floor instead of structured. It's interesting reading.

You can get easily misled if you just use the generic name for these materials. PEX plumbing tubing is polyethylene based but has very different properties than milk jug polyethylene, for example. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-linked_polyethylene "Polyurethanes" can have properties from jello-like to rock hard. Nylons have a wide range of properties also. And the multilayer hoses can have very different fuel resistance, inside versus outside. Stick a piece of EFI hose in a cup of gasoline and the outside will get gooey and make your hands black if you touch it in just a short time. The very thin inside layer has all of the fuel resistance. That's why any sharp edges or nicks on injectors or hard lines should be smoothed before using. Best to choose your specs. and make sure whatever you use meets them. Any hose that doesn't come with specifications is probably not designed for extreme use. Don't choose anything by its popular name.

So you have a 78 with an empty engine bay and you're gathering parts. Makes more sense. Make sure you get the right exhaust manifold for whatever head the L28 engine has. Square versus round.

You should probably define better what you mean by "L28". Do you want a complete engine, with manifolds, injectors, water pump , thermostat housing, etc.. still attached? Do you need the AFM, distributor, ECU and other engine control parts? The parts from a 1978 long block will transfer over to a 1983 long block. Easier to find a long-block than a complete engine. Any L28 from 75 to 83 would work except that you would want square port exhaust for 75-76. Good luck. Edit - you posted while I was writing. It's not clear what you're looking for, your CL ad in #5 iists everything except the engine, you said you need an engine in Post #1. Contradictory. Good luck.

I only see one. You borrowed that picture? Doesn't look hopeless, if yours look like that. Your favorite penetrant, heat and patience might get it out. Don't screw up the stub, get a good solid grip on it before twisting. Drill a hole through it to get penetrant to the back side of the threads.

Those are flat-top pistons, your 77 came with dished pistons. They're different. You may not need new pistons if your engine has not been abused.

Here's a whole car in Seattle. Take the motor, sell the body to PicknPull, and the transmission on CL. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4275686630.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116291-looking-for-set-of-stock-280zx-injectors/?do=findComment&comment=1090211

Check your dealer. Some of the old parts are still available. See below. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/Distributor/240Z/ForManual/tabid/1688/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/spring-gov-p-276887.html Also, your dist. number doesn't show up as a 240Z number, close but not quite, but the list in this thread may not include them all. Your dealer might have a dist. number part reference for the spring. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html