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  1. Hi: Doing some research and cannot find this; maybe it doesn't exist. Any stock pistons (flat-top or minimal dish) that will fit an L6 with roughly 30mm pin height in 86-88mm bore dia.? Thanks.
  2. I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
  3. I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  4. Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California
  5. Hi, I am planning to build a race car engine for my 280zx endurance Chumpcar racer. It's all amateur hobby racing and nothing professional, still it would suck very much if it breaks during a race. I am doing this 50% for power and 50% for reliability. I am a beginner hobby mechanic. I got all the OHC Nissan books My goals: - 100% for 10hours without blowing up several times a year. - Usable range 3500 - 7000 RPM (To keep cost down and keep some reliability) - 200HP crank (but 250 would be fantastic) Engine will consist of the following: - Megasquirt fuel only (can't do timing due to race regulations) - Race camshaft (Schneider 284-92F is a good candidate, 284/292 (236/244 @ 0.05"). 488/.504 lift) - MSA Headers - F54 block - N47 head (worth spending $650 for a Lonewolf porting?) - Some exhaust (2"?) I have a F54 block that comes with pistons but no head. This is what I plan to do: 1. Replace piston rings 2. Replace main and rod bearings 3. Replace all gaskets 4. New waterpump 5. New oilpump 6. New cam springs 7. New rocker arms 8. Should I get new pistons (block comes with pistons)? 9. Should I get a new Timing kit? Is there anything I should add to my todo list? Does the cam make sense? Is there something that is specially hard that I should leave to a professional? First time I ever mess with engine internals. I am not super tight on budget but forged pistons is way out of my budget. Many thanks
  6. Hey guys, I just got my car back from the dyno and I was a bit underwhelmed with the results - 156hp and 161ft/lb at the wheels (curves with AFR attached). The long block was assembled by a pretty reputable builder with the following specs: Bored out L28 to 2.95L F54 block with a N47 head 11.3:1 CR 290° cam with 0.490" lift Then I came along and messed something up with the following: MSA 6-1 header into 2.5" exhaust MSD 6AL-2 programmable ignition box triggered by a 280zx dizzy Cannon intake manifold Weber DCOE40s 36mm chokes 160 main 160 air correction F2 emulsion tube 3.5 A/V 55F9 idle The timing curve was initially dialed in by the tuner to eliminate knock with the 94 octane that I delivered the car with. The dizzy is locked out at 35°BTDC and the timing map they arrived at is attached. After the 1st round of results, I asked them to run some higher octane to get in all the timing that I thought was left on the table to control the knock. With 108 octane the car didn't pick up any power from advancing the curve that was developed with the 94. I found that a bit odd, but not sure how you argue with the data. The dyno was an eddy brake Land and Sea Dynomite axle hub set up. Let me know what your thought are on where I could look next, or if you think something is really bottlenecking the output. From all the searching I've done, it seems like all the hardware should support 200+whp, but we're not even close. Thanks! L28 dyno.pdf
  7. Looking to trade an N42 cylinder head for a P90 cylinder. N42 came off car that ran before it went into storage 15+ years ago. I really just need the head and the cam mounts, possibly rockers if they are in good shape as I be will getting a new cam, springs and valves anyway.
  8. I am currently building my motor on my 280z, and I was looking at having the head chambers welded up. The issue I have ran into is everyone wants big money to perform this service. I was was wondering what everyone's opinion was on if should even weld the chambers, or if someone has a reasonable source to have this service done. My current build list is as follows: N42 Block N42 Head / Ported & Unshrouded .030" over ITM Flat-top pistons 280z rods w/ ARP rod bolts ARP main studs ARP head studs Triple Weber 45 DCOEs with Cannon intake Advance Distributors re-curved 280zx distributor w/ E12-80 ignition module Schneider factory cam regrind 284-92F grind Intake Duration (gross): 284 Exhaust Duration (gross): 292 Intake Duration (.050”): 236 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 244 Intake Valve Lift*: .488" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .504" Lobe Separation: 107 Intake Valve Lash: .010" Exhaust Valve Lash: .012" RPM Range: 3250-7250
  9. So I have a 76 280Z 2+2 with a rough idle when cold. It also doesn't really like starting from cold. Have to give it gas to get it going. Once it heats up it is fine. But here is the kicker, on cold idle it seems to suck air up the tail pipe, which stops when it warms up. I held a lighter up to the tailpipe and watched the flame go up the tail pipe. It also smells like it is running rich, with a glorious off throttle backfire and some black smoke. Timing is good, fuel system has been pretty much completely replaced, compression was also checked, all 6 cylinders right around 135-150, not great but decent. I am wondering if it could be a valve lash issue? Not sure what else to check.
  10. Edit - First, thank you for any replies and to anyone who read my original post. I am learning this with the FSM and two repair manuals. I used a second set of eyes to go out and triple-check that I hadn't made a bunch of mistakes. The first cylinder gets a compression reading on the gauge at about the 45 mark (if it existed). When bringing the pulley mark to zero with the help from my second eyes, I get a completely different and much less dramatic looking scenario. The timing mark on the chain is a V (sitting at 2) versus a shiny which I couldn't find before. This looks less problematic than the crazy scenario I originally posted about but is still puzzling to me as the PO's mechanic didn't work on the timing but said there was a definite issue. Do these markings look off to you?
  11. Hi Folks, I finished a stout little engine build for a customer of mine here in South Florida. It's a 10:1, 40 over L28 with a decent cam. I assume I'll have to throw some more fuel at this engine but it's going into a stock 1976 280Z with the original fuel injection that was working fine. I have done many engines like this but never into a stock FI system. What is the preferred method of adding fuel? The less complicated the better! Thanks, Greg Ira RevTec
  12. Hi Everyone, Is this possible - putting an 80-81 AFM on a 76 S30? Someone has stated that there will be fuel pump issues as there is no connection for the fuel pump on the AFM (or something like that)? Any assistance is greatly needed. Or if someone has an AFM for a '76, would be willing to trade for this? Thanks, E
  13. Hey everyone, This is my first post to the forum, and I have a project and a few questions to share. I'm currently working on building a 6 carburetor setup for my l28 and have decided to use 6 30mm Mikuni motorcycle carburetors. I've selected these based on the airflow requirements of the engine while accounting for volumetric efficiency, engine speed, and of course engine size, and by comparison to some other carburetor setups (triple webers, various SU setups, etc). Needless to say, the Mikunis won't be compatible with the existing N33 intake manifold I'm currently running, so I plan to fabricate one from steel sheet and tube. My question relates to the ID sizing of the new intake manifold. I've read a rule of thumb that says the throttle body at the base of the carburetor should have an area that makes up 80% of the intake manifold cross sectional area. Based on this, I'm approximating an intake manifold ID of 33.54mm (see calculations below) Area of throttle body at carburetor base= (15mm)^2*3.14=706.5sqmm Area of intake manifold =.706.5/.8=883.125sqmm Radius of Intake manifold=(883.125sqmm/3.14)^(.5)=16.77mm Diameter of intake manifold=33.54mm Can anyone confirm whether this 80% rule of thumb is safe to go by? I know there are other considerations to make when it comes to resonance tuning and airflow, but I've had little luck finding anything conclusive. I'm also considering sizing the new intake manifold to match the ID of my existing N33 manifold and N42 head. Given the simple construction of the new manifold (going with steel tube and steel sheet), fewer changes in diameter might be better. Abrupt changes in diameter of the tube will cause turbulent airflow, which, while potentially useful for achieving an even fuel mixture, could also reduce throttle response (thus my reasoning for matching the new manifold to the head). Does anyone know the size of the holes where the head meets the intake manifold? I've done some searching around the forums but am unable to find this bit of information. Thanks for your help! Any and all advice is welcome. pkz
  14. I am looking for a complete set of of rocker arms for my N42 head that I can send in to be resurfaced. Mine are too pitted to be cleaned up.
  15. Hello all! This is actually my first forum post, as I have been lurking quite a bit. Please let me know if I have posted this in the wrong place. I am currently in the midst of a 240z restomod, with a remarkably clean shell out in the yard. I have solidifed the plan to put a RB25DET in it in the foreseeable future, as the charm of the RB engines has quite a hold on me Now the kicker is, I'm on a tight budget, being in high school and soon college. I want to begin to build the car and get the internals working before I drive it over to a paint shop to get a nice finish (it is currently primered). My initial thought was to go with the RB right off the bat, however this would result in the car being off the road and in the shop for much longer than I can stand, as well as be a huge task for a newbie mechanic. My current thought is to purchase a good ol' L28 and a 5 speed tranny for use until the car looks and moves how I want, then RB later when money is not as tight. Another reason is that I love the feel of the L series with a passion and want to get to know the engine before moving to bigger and better things. Is this a reasonable plan or will I sink too much money into an engine I plan to replace anyways for it to be worth it?
  16. 1971 240z "Kirin" Hi there! This is going to be my little Z build. Picked her up as a gift to myself after coming back from Japan. Today she sits eagerly awaiting to be fixed up and driven. After months of sitting I decided it was about time to get a move on it, so here we go! Last Updated: Dec 1st, 2016 - added a couple notes to self May 21st, 2016: Got it running after sitting for 9 months! Now it's sitting again -- Crank Keyway worn-out Note to Readers: I've linked most of the things I've purchased with their part number and a website. If you see something that isn't linked, or want to know where I purchased something, let me know! Exterior -Chassis: rusted -Body: dented steel panels, cracked fiberglass head buckets -Bumper: deleted rear bumper, ugly stock front still installed -Spoiler: Fairlady 432R Reproduction -Grill: Fairlady Z432 Reproduction (1 tuff z) -Paint : 918 Orange (original) -Misc: (order weatherstripping you lazy fool!) / (research rust prevention) / (research body work & paint) Interior Everything was stripped! Lend me your dry ice... Electrical -Battery: New Battery - Optima Red Top 25 / Autozone Universal Battery Mount / (correct size battery cables) -Alternator: upgraded alternator - 140Amp -Wiring Harness: stock (order pretty rainbow colored one - EZ) -Audio: no stereo -Lights: Headlights: Dapper Lighting 7" Classic V2 + White LED Halo (Halogen) / Tail lights: Dapper Lighting Sequential LED -Gauges: stock -Switches: stock -Sensors: Crank Pulley Flying-Magnets system -Ignition System: Distributor-less Simple Digital System Coil Pack Ignition -Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs (PN 739-BPR6EIX) -Spark Plug Wires: 8mm Street Thunder; Spark Plug Wire; Custom Fit 6 cyl.; Black (PN 895-51090) (soon to be removed) -Misc: deleted external voltage regulator / (research windshield wiper motor) Engine & Exhaust - Acc. Belt: Napa (PN _____ ) -Intake Manifold: Mangoletsi -Carburetor(s): Triple Dellorto DHLA 45M -Jets: -Air Filter: K&N re-usable air filter (x3) -Cam: stock? not sure -Block: P30 L24 (Matching #'s) -Head: E31 - Ported (size) -Distributor: stock (delete & plug) -PCV Valve: Valve Cover Breather PCV K&N (PN 800-613) / Crankcase Vent Breather Filter PCV K&N (PN 800-406) (re-route to exhaust) -Exhaust: (research heat shield) -Misc: deleted random wires and screws in engine bay Cooling / Fuel / Oil -Radiator & Plumbing: Mishimoto radiator (PN MMRAD-DATS-70) / Upper & Lower Mishimoto radiator hoses (PN MMHOSE-DATS-70) / 1.75" Mishimoto radiator Tension Clamps / (install custom overflow tank) / (research fan shroud) -Thermostat: 160 degree thermostat & new gasket / 1/4" BSPT Alloy Steel Hex Plug w/ Plumbing tape (x1) -Fan: stock (order electric fan(s) x2) -Water Pump: stock (order gasket) -Misc: deleted manifold / carb coolant line & plugged thermostat housing hole / rotated 90 Deg elbow towards water pump - new 5/8" rubber hose [on order] hose brackets --- -Fuel Tank: stock (research fuel cell) -Fuel Pump: stock (research electrical/mech) -Fuel Regulator: none (research bypass 4+ PSI w/ gauge adapter) -Fuel Filter: Autozone (generic) -Fuel Rail: (removed) -Choke: stock (need to tuck) -Misc: new fuel sending unit, o-ring & lock ring --- -Oil Filter: Fram (size) -Oil Pan: stock -Misc: n/a Suspension / Tires & Brakes -Axels: -Suspension & Steering: clunk. clunk. clunk. -Braking System: I'll eventually stop..(all stock) -Rims: -Tires: cheap Goodyears (insert size) -Misc: n/a Drivetrain -Clutch: custom clutch hardline (3/8-24NPT to M10/1.0) -Master Cylinder: Tilton-76 7/8" Master cylinder (PN 76-875) / adapter (3/8-24NPT double flare to 3/8-24NPT bubble flare) / Girling reservoir, offset 7/16-20 outlet, 5oz -Slave Cylinder: Beck Arnley slave cylinder (PN 072-1258) w/ adjustable rod & return spring / SS clutch hose (PN 21-2170) (order mounting shims) -Throttle System: -Transmission: '77-80 "wide ratio" 5-speed -Differential: not sure yet -Misc: n/a Miscellaneous -AC: none -Heating System: deleted -Bolts: Replacing all bolts with ZCarDepot SS Bolt Kit (PN 650-000) -Hoses: Replaced most fuel vent hoses Going to have to backtrack a little, I hope you don't mind...
  17. I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,
  18. From the album: 280Z Project - in progress

    1975 280Z with 3.1L stroker in Infiniti Beryllium
  19. From the album: 280Z Project - in progress

    1975 280Z with 3.1L stroker in Infiniti Beryllium
  20. I didn't want to detract from Derek's massive thread but I was curious if there was any information around on this video: http://tominis.info/watch/hDCfZUIMom8/dohc-twin-cam-l28-datsun-z-car.html Seems he mated 3 different KA24DE heads to make this happen. Video is marked for 8 years ago, so I'm wondering if the guy was on here before or if anyone knows any other info on this thing. Looks interesting to say the least, but I haven't found anything else on it.
  21. So back I Orlando. Put another gasket on the turbo to down pipe and it leaked again. You can actually stick a small flat head in between the top 2 bolts on the flange and wiggle the gasket. That's with the bolts tight. Looks like the down pipe flange is warped. I am going to get another gasket and try again. Just trying to help tooquick260 get on the road for this upcoming great weather here in Florida. Anyone had this issue?
  22. Hey guys, I got something out of the blue and hoping a random angel-sent individual will have some sort of assistance for me. I recently installed triple Dellorto dhla 40's on my engine via an SK manifold. The engine specs as follows: stock l28 bottom end with the exception of flat top pistons. The head is a rebuilt N42 head with a mild Rebello cam. The carbs have 38mm choke, 132 mains, 33 pump jets, 7772.8 emulsion tube, 210 air correctors, and 58 Idle jets. I should note that the engine ran with SU's (SU's were replaced with triples due to leaking throttle shaft) Replaced parts: plug wires, ngk bpr6es plugs, carbs were resealed, also rechecked all bolts With that out of the way, I am having much difficulty keeping the engine idling. I have tried backing out the Idle mixture screws 3.5 turns through 6 turns, and it still won't idle. If i give it a couple pumps, it will idle only for a second. I have checked for vacuum leaks but can't find any. I can keep it alive by giving it gas, which means its somehow not rich enough at idle. The idle jets seem pretty big, so is it just a simple vacuum leak that I am somehow missing, or is it something else?
  23. Hello All, I have an oportunity to pickup another good condition 240Z. I believe it's a 71. The owner says the motor is a performance motor, but she's not sure because it belonged to her EX...I'm not familiar with the L28 so what should I be looking for? Any pointers or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  24. hamchuck

    WTB L28

    Looking for one in running condition, intake and exhaust headers not necessary. A good-quality long block is acceptable also. I'm in Arizona and willing to drive up to 1 state away to pick up, but we could figure out shipping from anywhere else also.
  25. cegrover


    From the album: 280Z Project - in progress

    Engine compartment after AEM installation and new intake.
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