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Found 60 results

  1. Many of us know how difficult it is to get our later model V8 280z cars thru California smog inspection. While pre-1976 Z cars are smog exempt, anyone with a 77 or 78 Z car had to deal with CARB referee. Today I was looking at the CARB rulebook and I saw the following statement: "Vehicles with collector motor vehicles insurance policies that are at least 35 MYs years old are exempt from the visual inspection [as required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Cal. Health and Safety Code], but must comply with the emissions standards for its model year and pass a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks" My vehicle is not my primary vehicle and a collector car policy thru Hagerty Insurance only cost $350 per year. I have always believed that the California Air Board should be concern about what comes out of my tailpipe not is under my hood. A properly tuned catalytic converter equipped LT1, LS1 should easily blow cleaner than a 35 year old L28. My 78 has just reached the 35 year mark and this would make the biannual smog inspection much easier. Has anyone attempted to use this loophole yet?
  2. Hey Guys! I am new here and I have a 1978 280Z. It has a blown head gasket which I am in the middle of replacing, that and the timing chain. After doing that I am thinking about swapping in a KA24DE. I can get an engine, harness, and ECU for about $300 at a local pick and pull. What I am wondering is weather I can put the KA24DE in the Datsun with the stock 4 speed manual transmission. I have read on this forum that the KA can fit in the 5 speed but is tilted the wrong way. I am guessing that the KA will also bolt right up to the 4 speed? I am pretty good at fab work and have my schools shop to work in. I can also get a 5 speed from a 280zx or from a 240sx on craigslist, although the 240sx trans would require a custom shortened driveshaft and I am trying to do this on the cheap (or maybe could I just move the engine and trans forward 2 inches?). My preferred method is sticking with the stock trans and bolting up the KA, could I do this and make a custom oil pan to accomadate for the odd angle? Or would I have to tilt the stock trans? Thanks, Cooper. Ps. The reason that I am doing this is because I would like the MPG and reliability of the KA.
  3. Hey guys! This is my first post on the fourm, but i have been looking through posts for about 2 months now. I am a 16 year old high school student who LOVES the datsun Z cars. It has been an intrest, basically an obsession, to build one of my own. So i guess i just have a bunch of questions that i would love to have answered. Thanks! Alighty guys, so i have very little knowledge in mechanics but i have tons of family friends who just so happen to own their own shops so i dont think actually doing mechanical things would be a huge problem. So basically what i want to do is build a 240, 260, or 280Z. I currently drive a 2007 nissan maxima and i love it but i really want a manual transmission and i love the way the Zs look. so here are my questions and inquiries. should i go with an already partially restored or restored z and just fork out the extra cash? or go with one i can restore myself. should i stay with the stock engine or swap to a 350z, i forget the numbers and letters, motor or even a L28et? of corse i want to go fast hahaha i dont want a track moster or a show car. i want something nice looking and fast(16 year old fast) that wont berak the bank in upgrading parts what will i need? i guess my thing is i want to know what is the best platform for building a Z and i want to know virtually everything to build my Z thanks guys, i know my questions are very vague but it's hard to describe exactly what i want on here thanks again guys!
  4. I am savign up to get an engine to drop in my 73 240z. At first i wanted an ls1 to drop in, but i am now leaning toward getting an lq4. that being siad, does anyone have experice with this swap, knowledge about crucial elements i will need to know. first question being how hard is it to swap an ls6 intake onto the lq4. SHould i consider getting a Fast intake instead of an ls6 intake? will the fast intake fit under a stock hood? if so, what size do i need to get. also what other stuff is intailed in the swap?i hve been doing researh and have bits and pieces of informaton, but am still a little confused on the whole swap i am planning on pairing this with a t56 tranny. any info will help. please... i need help
  5. Klmykvl

    L28et

    I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got
  6. Hey Guys, well, i've reached a point in my project where i just had no clue what to do to get it running right other than to take it to a shop. Long story short.... The car has idling problems/ boost leak problems?e Car turns on and runs and can be driven. But the car definitely has a major lack of power as boost gets nowhere near stock psi. i checked for major leaks with a home made boost leak compressor based gadget to test leaks on piping from turbo running through inter-cooler all the way to intake plenum. gauge on tester goes down very very slowly but Not sure whether or not that should cause such significant lack of power. Car when driven barely gets to spool much boost, let alone set off the greddy type S BOV. there is fuel, there is spark. Timing i can't even get done accurately since the car idles and runs, spits, like crazy . seems like it the problem is aiming toward a boost leak problem; however, this project having been done from ground up by me and being my first swap, the margin of error remains.... electrical wiring schematics were gathered from intel from this site based on previous wiring diagrams from L28et to 240z swaps. I took it to a Datsun specialist shop here in (SAN DIEGO, CA 91911 )nearby that has remarkable yelp feedback and honest to god the owner of the shop seemed like a knowledgeable great guy and interested to fix on it.... but after 3 months of waiting i was dissapointed to hear he was unable to get positive results as (and i quote) " specialize in N/A for the most part" which would've been nice to know prior to wasting my 3 months ANYWAY! Does anybody know of a good shop here in SAN DIEGO, CA area that does honest and good work on 240z's in a timely manner for a decent price? or anybody who could take a look at it and figure out what needs to be addressed. the wrenching i can do. but with the TIME i have free it's just not feasible for me to LOOK or TROUBLESHOOT. i need someone to say " THIS, THIS, and THAT. i can get it fixed for _____and running right, otherwise its ____ for the diagnosis and have a nice day. HELP! Here's a link to a youtube Video of the car when i took it for a short ride to the end of the block, as you will notice, the car had issues staying on when cold. hopefully by hearing it maybe some of you could throw some educated guess/recommendation http://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=y79Rjd1uI60 Some pics.
  7. Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
  8. OK, I just want to be clear I looked around already, but I've found a lot of conflicting information on the subject. I want to swap the R200 open diff on my 280z for the CLSD from the 88 Z31. I already have the new diff, but I haven't gotten a chance to try and install it yet. So far I've gathered that this is a bolt on swap and the ONLY thing I have to do is swap the driveshaft companion flange. Now, Some people say that I need to take off the finned cover and put my old non-finned cover on. I'd like to retain the finned cover so my diff won't overheat. Is there a bolt-on friendly (read: no welding) way of doing this? z31 mustache bar or something? Is this even a real problem? Thanks guys.
  9. Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here at HZ. Last month I picked up a 280z with the stock 80k mile L28 and auto tranny. Obviously thats not gonna fly with me hahah. Im planning a winter build of a RB25DET swap. I know there are many build threads to read but I have one question. How does the RB's transmission fit? Are there any recommended motor mounts that help make the transmission fit with the stock driveshaft? or fit betting inside? Thanks guys, I love this community already -Nate
  10. I'm looking for an apater to bolt a t3/t4 up to the stock zx manifold. I've looked on ebay and found several but it looks like there are a couple different flanges that coupled the t3 to different makes, so I was wanting one that fit our cars, obviously. lol The flange on my compressor housing is bolt hole, center to center 3" x 1 1/8". Thanks fellas
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