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Showing results for tags '280ZX'.
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Hey can anyone make those brackets for the rear end s13 swap into our 280zx also any other guidelines or tips on install would be great
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Hey guys I know these been covered alot but iam still kinda confused so I got an 82 280zx 2 seater iam wanting to swap an z31 r200 lsd with turbo axles since there stronger iam trying to get the diff axles hubs stub axles and the flanges are they basically bolt in like anything else needed or stuff like that and also has anyone done that swap and used z32 cailpers in rear
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Greetings everyone. I have a nismo 2way LSD that I would like to attempt to install in an R200 3.90 from a 1981 280zx (if that is even possible) and use the 29 spline inner stub axles that came with.
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Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
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This S130 has been my dream to build for almost 2 decades. I have always been a S130 guy, but started my Z journey with a z31 50th AE when I was in high school because that’s what I could find in my price range. Now I can fully realize this dream build! I am going for a reliable street daily driver with mildly improved performance but mainly just modernization. I have been working for quite a few years already and have started various sub-projects that may be of interest to other S130 people. This is one of the bastard models of the Z families so more sharing and development is helpful to all! The car is an 83 NA. I can’t remember when I bough this car, but my earliest picture is in 2015 when i started the rust remediation! Somehow lacking any starting pictures Of the external car ... the earliest pictures I found of the outside are after I had already tackled most of the exterior rust and painted those areas black. I was toying with the idea of alternative tail lights and grabbed some datsun tails from a junkyard to see how they looked. SiBr’ed some patches onto the floor pan. As the car was torn down, i found a sweet deal on a parts car with a seized motor. Since i needed the Motor out of my build to paint the bay anyway, I slapped the NA motor into the grey car and drove it around for a few years. I original bought the parts car to rob the black interior from once I finished the body work. I sewed up this center console pad to make my elbow more comfortable.
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Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
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Quick update for anyone wondering about these seats I have a 1983 280ZX and I threw in some corbeau GTS II seats with shaved bases and a corbeau dual locking slider on the driverside and a single locking slider, on the passenger side. and corbeau bolt in seat brackets. I'm 6 foot tall but have a 30" inseam so you can imagine my torso is a bit taller than normal. Anyways they sat higher than stock and I ran out of head room and had to drive kind of slouched with the T-Top sunshade removed. To fix the passenger side I removed the sliding rail and bolted the bracket straight to the seat, reinstalled and I now have plenty of room, even with the sunshade installed. I will be doing to the same to the driverside. But removing the slider makes it difficult to install the rear-outer bolt but its doable especially if you have small arms. Other than that, great seats that work with with my 2" 4pt harnesses.
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I recently got a 1981 280ZX Datsun. The car runs well and I love it, though I wanted to make some upgrades/mods to it, specifically the start and locks of the car. I essentially want to have remote locking and starting of a car. I have found very few kits that do both, most kits either lock or start with the remote. I could have two remotes but that doesn't seem logical to me. I'm very new to the realm of cars and especially electronic work on cars however, I do have friends that are willing to help me with this stuff, any suggestions on how I can incorporate both of them into 1 remote? Thank you
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Hey guys, I’m working on a blow through set up on my L3.0 flat top engine. I’ll be running a P90 head all stock with light blending and port clean up. Stock turbo exhaust manifold, t3/to4e .50 trim Garrett turbo. Haven’t picked the FMIC yet or piping. I know I need the oil pan and oil lines. my question is this, I’ll be using Atomic EFI (2) and a Clifford manifold. I’d like to use MSD 6al along with it. The TBI atomic has a timing control feature id like to use. I was wondering if I could use my NA dizzy and just lock the timing. Also if I can do this, how do I set it up to control timing? I’ve searched all over and can’t find to much on it and I’m in WV. There aren’t any Z guys around me. (From Florida originally) the reason I really want to control the timing is because I have a flat top engine. I don’t want to blow the dang thing up if I decide to run 15+ psi. any help on running this kind of set up would be awesome. Parts list etc? 😁🇺🇸 Thanks guys!
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Just bought the FAST EZ-EFI kit from Z Car Depot for my 1983 280zx. Put it on my car the other day and it runs worse than it ever has. Car will idle but is very hard to start and really rough when it's running. Using any more than 1/4 throttle will stall the engine. When I am able to rev the engine it's terribly rough. Feels like or an ignition timing issue. I know that when I removed the old EFI harness I disconnected a connector going into the distributor and the new harness did not have a connection to plug back in to the dizzy. Since adding the EZ EFI, ignition timing has retarded itself about 10 degrees at idle. Advancing timing does not help the issue. I have setup the ECU with all the correct parameters listed with the info from zcardepot. ECU doesn't throw any codes, all readings seem mostly normal for not being tuned. It feels like it could be a vacuum leak or vacuum not hooked up correctly as well however my vacuum readings are perfectly normal. Has anyone else has this issue? I will add pictures of the engine in it's current state along with the connections that were left unplugged when adding the EZ EFi kit, Including the oil temp sensor. Does this stuff really get left unplugged?
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Hello! I just picked up a 1983 280zx, but am absolutely torn between two Air dams I know nothing about. Does anyone have any idea where I can get either of these? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Hey Guys , May dad passed away a few years ago and left me his 280zx. It has some really bad rust on the rear quarter panels all around the small windows and rear corners. Floor pans and frame rails are also completely shot...Little bit of rust at the base of the wind shield but i can have a friend fab that entire piece. My question is this, Where can i buy the rear quarter panels and floorpans/rails??? Also, How hard is it to remove the quarter panels? Are they just tack welded in?? If so, it seems it would be very easy to replace for a good welder. Any help would be great! Getting a new frame isnt an option as it would not have the sentimental value it has now. Thanks guys
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Hello! First post here, was wondering what everyone used for their fuel setup on their stock tanks. I have a '79 280zx with a 5.3 (l28 saved for a 280z), stuck on what way to get the ls fuel pump to the stock 280zx pickup tube in the tank. Would there be any safety issue if I use a kit like the one pictured and just clamp send/return from the tank directly to the Corvette style regulator, or would that work just fine? Any info would be great, thanks!
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Hello Team, Anyone got any recommendations on places to purchase replacement engine mounts for a 280zx? Are any engine mounts from other Nissan's or Datsun's compatible? Would appreciate any advice on this.
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So I found an '82 280zx in beautiful condition for having sat out in snow, rain, sleet, hail, sun, etc. for almost 12 years. I contacted the owner and he told me he had no plans of restoring it and will give it to me for $1500. There's almost no surface rust and the engine still runs after all this time. I am planning on completely restoring it then in the future modding it as I make it through college and stuff. There is a slight misfiring issue whenever it starts, but the owner says he thinks it's spark plugs, but to be safe i'm replacing the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, oil filter, and ignition distributor rotor to get it running smoother. The driver side seat cover is torn, so I will also be getting new seat covers and also probably a dash cap since the old one has cracks all over it. I will then use that to learn manual (I know I'm a disappointment, I've wanted to learn for so long, just never had the chance to). I will post some pics of the car so you all can see the current condition and give updates as I find out more. The plan is to have the car in 2 months, then get it back running within that month, then drive it for a week or so to learn stick then I will set it in the garage and start the internal restoration. If anyone has any recommendations or if you find anything in the images, feedback would be very appreciated.
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Hello all, I have a 280ZX with an R200 open diff. In the next few years I plan on swapping the engine to make some more horsepower (300-500hp), but want to make sure my axle can handle it. I know the R200 is sturdier than the smaller diffs, and that problems often happen when one wheel spins. An LSD also helps for track driving, and driving in general (no I will not do a welded diff). There are several LSD carriers for the R200, marketed for the 300ZX, such as the OEM, M Factory, and OBX. There are plenty of forums and videos of people swapping the carriers for the S30 chassis, and they all talk about converting to 300ZX CV axles. My question is- If I swap the carrier for an LSD, can I use the 280ZX CV axles?
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hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb -
I have this lock looking thing on my driver side fender. I can't find pictures of this online or anything on it. It looks well done like it came out of the factory like this though. https://imgur.com/a/K8w7Wfr
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I'm picking up my 280zx with a manual trans and 90,000 miles. It needs brake lins but thats it acording to the owner. I plan on making this a project car and one day a weekend car. I'm not looking the get a ton of power out of it but I do want to make it look nice. I'm a good craftsman and fabricator in my opinion so I plan on making a lot of stuff in house. I want to lower it a good bit, give it some offset wheels and fender flares, and paint it all on a budget plus spruce up the inside. I can make the flares no problem but I'm not sure how im going to do the suspention. $900 coilovers are awsome but not in the buget for me. I have a welder though. I'm looking for links to diy suspenson maybe and what I should look for in rims. Also is $800 a decent deal? or not so much. best deal in my area but I have heard of people getting better deals Let me know if you have other Ideas for my project to. Thanks, Isaac -
So I just got my 1981 280zx its pretty rough but its 5 speed manual that runs and drives for $800. They guy said in the add that the car had 90,000 miles and I didn't notice the car read 9,000 miles. what does this mean could he have rolled it back or did he replace the dash. The title says nothing about the milage. Is there anything I can look at to gauge its milage. how can i check to see if the dash was replaced or tampered. Also does any one know how the check button works on the dash? Evenm when the engin is running it doesn't do anything when I press it. Is it broken or is there somthing else I need to do
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hello everyone I'm new to this forum and was wondering what kind of setup everyone is using for ungraded suspension parts on their 280ZXs? i haven't had much luck finding anything in terms of struts/ coilovers that work, and am curious as to what everyone has done
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Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3
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I have an '83 280zx and I wanted to replace my old steering coupler but after searching online, I can't find a rubber/poly replacement that will fit. Only ones I'm finding available are couplers for the manual rack 280zx or s30 models. I'm wondering does anyone know if any couplers from any earlier models will fit despite all these websites telling me otherwise? I'm trying not to resort to buying the pricey solid aluminum one from T3. Here's the link to it: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130/steering-coupler-280zx-power-rack
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This post is to present some of the progress (with pictures that I have made (with alot of help) on my 280ZX. The first generation ZX (S130) doesn't get much respect from the early-Z crowd, but I have always preferred the more-finished look of the ZX. I got mine as my first car in 1996 and it hit 200,000 miles in 2001, I pulling the engine to rebuild it and decided I would clean up/paint the engine bay and restore the body. Here is some of the progress... This is just a test photo, since I've never posted before. I will post more pictures in the following posts...
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i bought my zx a couple years ago now my goal is partially a restomod but also creating a racecar setup. at the moment im finsihing up with my engine work including intake with pallnet rail and new injectors and the works and a header thats all fine and dandy but my big issue is the body! originally the only rust i found was the spare wheel well but that turned into small patches on all for quarters and passenger floor pan and rails, battery box, to my current discovery the windshield area both on the roof and the wiper cowl. with my lack of experience in body work i cut out the passenger floor and welded in some new steel not have bad for a rookie. i already planned on buying new fibergalss fenders for the front so no need to fix the fenders and i think i can handle the rear quarters but don't know how to work with the windshield trim areas. unlike the s30 the cowl doesn't unbolt so obviously i have to drill out tack welds. and i dont even know what im going to do with roof at the moment but im looking for advice from someone thats had to repair these particular areas before and i know i should have bought a new shell long ago but im in this one deep plus this has been the greatest learning project possible.
