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  1. He's saying although we are launching a DOHC head in 2024 we readily admit it will be pale in comparison the mighty KN20 from Datsunworks. At least that's what I'm hearing.
    4 points
  2. well old story , but MAG58 was right, mercedes M104 head is possible on a datsun L28 stroked , build is not over but we will see what happens soon bye bye Didier
    4 points
  3. **UPDATE Went to court yesterday and basically played dumb. Told the judge that "I went to the state ref and he told me since the car is so old that he couldn't do anything to certify it. So how do I go about taking car of this ticket. The vehicle is a pre smog vehicle so I've never had to SMOG it" The judge said "Ok so what Im going to do here is dismiss the case cuz it seems like your car doesn't qualify for an inspection. Sorry about the inconvenience Mr. Soto" I tried to play it cool but I was so happy. After reading all the horror stories from other people about having to revert to stock and all that I was lucky I guess Hope this thread helps someone going through something similar
    4 points
  4. Greetings Everyone, Due to the increase in spammers HybridZ, registration has changed from being automatic to manual. That means one of the Admins will need to approve any new registrants. If you ask or tell someone about HybridZ (please do) let them know registration isn't automatic anymore. We'll do our best to stay on top of any additions and hopefully you all will see a lot less spam. Thanks, The HybridZ moderation team
    4 points
  5. Don't tell my wife Like I tell other people. some like to fish, some like to bowl, I like to make.
    3 points
  6. Unfortunately, it is too late. Maybe for round 6 in a couple of years Got the shirts in and will start breaking things down and shipping things out next week. This week is busy with work travel, so appreciate your patience while I get a few out each day on my lunch breaks.
    3 points
  7. They received all of the shirts without backorders and are starting on printing this afternoon!
    3 points
  8. I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.
    3 points
  9. First start up since starting the restoration. Kind of shocked she started right up on the first go. Was expecting something on the MegaJolt to need fixing, but it worked great. Went with Magnacor wires, but they made a mistake and did not fit them up with the right coil boots. Being remade and shipped, so I am using 05’ ford explorer NGK wires for now. Went with a “7” heat NGK plug on account of the 10:1 CR. It’s raining this weekend, but just need to dial-in some crude alignment and she will be road worthy IMG_2339.mov
    3 points
  10. Just wanted to say again a HUGE "Thank You" to @cockerstar for doing this (a FIFTH time)!!!! Really appreciate all his time and effort to make this happen. You da' man, Ryan!!! 👍👍
    3 points
  11. Yup! Been daily driving it, 300+ days a year, for the last 4 years. Approaching 75,000 miles on the turbo build. No regrets.
    3 points
  12. Life has been kicking my ass lately! Between my job changing significantly, being super sick, and some significant medical issues with my daughter I haven’t made the progress on shipping orders that I have wanted to. Post here if you’re really itching to get yours and I’ll move it to the top of my list. Otherwise I’m moving along as ordered. I’d like to get these wrapped up so I can transfer the remaining funds over to Dan.
    2 points
  13. We’re going on track this Sunday at Willow springs Will set-up the car tomorrow at a friends shop since they have a flat-level garage floor (which I do not). Also in the middle of adapting the front brakes to 280zx rotor and caliper per EP spec-line. Caliper mounting on the strut assembly will require some welding and drilling, so it will have to wait till after this weekend. Greg Ira was nice enough to ship me some race pads he has that fit the OEM calipers.
    2 points
  14. Lower part of the bumper is started. Used a fiberglass gnose to take dimensions from, happy with how everything is coming out.
    2 points
  15. Hi everyone! I have the shirts and should be able to start getting some out today. I was primarily working from home at least 80% of the time, but my job just got pushed to 60-80% travel so I haven't had breaks at home like I used to.
    2 points
  16. Well, after more testing, it seems to be a user error. Was able to drive for a good hour today without and bucking/shudders. I think it's a combination of a new clutch and upgraded transmission/rear end that I have to get used to. The car seems to like higher rpms when starting from a stop, and a different clutch engagement that what it was before. Car is much more fun with the new parts. Not a fast car, but a fun one.
    2 points
  17. No, you just pull the bearings off of the front of their shafts. The countershaft bearing is pretty tight to the gear and takes some trickery. The mainshaft bearing needs a puller with long arms. You can push the rods back to get more room. The transmission will have multiple gears engaged but it won't matter. When you reinstall the front case put it in a single gear (one rod moved) to avoid locking up the transmission by accident. Here's a decent video about the countershaft bearing, different tranmsision but same concepts. He did the same thing I did, clamping a two jaw puller in to the gap, otherwise the jaws pop off. The mainshaft is a more normal operation but the length of the shaft has to be managed. It takes some work. If you have friends that have pulled bearings or gears it might be worhtwhile to get some more ideas and tools on-hand. Notice the odd combination. Go to 4:00 if it doesn't start there.
    2 points
  18. 4th gear doesn't use the countershaft, it's direct drive. That's a good clue. Sounds more like the countershaft bearing. Looks like you'll need to split the cases, so you might as well do the mainshaft/input shaft bearing also. It's not a super-finesse job. Just needs some ingenuity. It's fun. Part of Z ownership. Here's a good illustration of the parts you'll be looking at. I'm sure that there are "how-to" videos out there somewhere. You can get a factory service manual on the internet that shows how to take it apart. Good luck. https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
    2 points
  19. "Grinding" is not very specific. Can you add details? Have you driven it? Is it the same in every gear? 71B's are known for destroying the adapter plate bearings. Did you find any metal on the drain plug magnet? If you've been driving it you might drain the fluid and see how it looks. Might also be worthwhile to lift the car and get underneath with the engine running to see if you can locate the noise. Replacing the main and countershaft bearings is not very difficult. You only have to split the cases and pull the bearings off of the ends of the shafts. The adapter plate bearings are more difficult.
    2 points
  20. Order is with the screen printer and will keep you guys posted when I get an ETA on delivery.
    2 points
  21. Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost? Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno.
    2 points
  22. @calZ, I spoke with John yesterday and I'm going to do another round. 36 item minimum from my print shop, but I think we can hit that!
    2 points
  23. I am still around, I don't check regularly. I still have my Z. I joined here when I was 15, I am about to turn 38.
    2 points
  24. my hood mold is made for racing only, no inner reinforcement and no stock mounting hinge supports, design for hood pins mount only.
    1 point
  25. Updates below. Tracking info should auto populate in PayPal. Started at the top and am doing Tshirt only orders first since they go in bags and are the fastest to prep. Will keep the list updated as I go. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 15. Sonethirty - PAID 16. S30TRBO - PAID 17. S30TRBO - PAID 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID 27. jnjdragracing - PAID 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID 31. JonRHD - PAID 32. 75280z - PAID 33. 75280z - PAID 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID 37. LanceVance - PAID 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID 45. AydinZ71 - PAID 46. AydinZ71 - PAID 47. zredbaron - PAID 48. zredbaron - PAID 49. zredbaron - PAID 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 53. evildky - PAID 54. torqen2k1 - PAID 55. torqen2k1 - PAID 56. torqen2k1 - PAID 57. torqen2k1 - PAID 58. torqen2k1 - PAID 59. torqen2k1 - PAID 60. Mayolives - PAID 61. Mayolives - PAID 62. Mayolives - PAID 63. bkz72 - PAID 64. Wizzurp - PAID 65. Wizzurp - PAID 66. Leon - PAID 67. Gollum - PAID 68. Gollum - PAID 69. Gollum - PAID 70. AB240z - PAID 71. AB240z - PAID 72. AB240z - PAID 73. AB240z - PAID 74. AB240z - PAID 75. AB240z - PAID 76. AB240z - PAID 77. AB240z - PAID 78. AB240z - PAID 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID 85. clarkspeed - PAID 86. niner11 - PAID 87. 1970 240z - PAID 88. 1970 240z - PAID 89. 1970 240z - PAID 90. 1970 240z - PAID
    1 point
  26. Installed on the car now. The rest of the interior is just about finished, I'll likely start a separate thread for that as I 3d modeled a few other hard to find parts as well. Also I still have two other sets of the column covers printed if anyone is looking for a replacement.
    1 point
  27. You’ll lose nothing in my opinion, Fuel injection has a tunable acceleration feature just like a pump on the Webbers. I ditched mine for fuel injection and it was way better everywhere and no hundreds of dollars to make a jetting change, just a few click on the keyboard to make changes and tune it. I would never go back.
    1 point
  28. @Gumiho3 If you are referencing this picture then yes that is a green wire that supplies power for the PNP. In my case Hexa Garage never hooked up the wire running from my PNP to the ECU so I was powering that green wire at the plug but it never told to ECU to trigger a start signal and I had to borrow a snap-on diagnostic tool with Nissan protocols to see that, so you may want to bypass your PNP switch entirely and just run a signal directly to that pin on the ECU plug. I’ll check my FSM quickly and get that pinout for you. It is pin #109 (marked it on the image). Remember this pin out is from the harness side so it is as if you are looking through the connector when the wire side is facing you.
    1 point
  29. @jhm @tube80z helped me out. super simple solution. For anyone in the future, double check the size of the image (1600x1200) is what i resized to
    1 point
  30. Hey everyone. I developed and 3d printed an adapter to go from the vintage air mini gen II tube to the center vent on the 280z and figured others might want to utilize it as well. I'm figuring $20 and it's shipped to your door (U.S., I don't know about international shipping). for mine I mounted it in a carbon fiber center section so I also can include the stands to offset the air vent and a cut template to utilize.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. I realized I wasn’t keeping up with my threads . When I worked in the RR I would get stuck in hotels and had lots of time to post and desk wrench . Then I retired and went bonkers working on Z’s to support my habit . 3 years later and my back is broken and I just keep busy on my stuff .FB was okay but I do miss these forums . I especially miss the great talent here , but I am always referring people to this site for real info and not a social media opinion . Funny thing is I bought a 720 and started posting on Ratsun because that was about the only site for these trucks . Today I looked and my thread has 40k views - who would have thought . The guys there have been very helpful and I try and ignore the threads that are political in nature . This site has been the most helpful for me with my z .
    1 point
  33. I haven't been here in a quite a while, though I have been on Hybridz since the late 90's. I did a small stint with Porsches. (Daily drove a 944 and put 140K in three years up here in the Great White North!) Went back to Z's with a very low mileage 280zxt. I got tired of worrying about putting on mileage on it, so I sold it and bought a 370z touring. I've been mildly modding it over the last year. No more crazy turbo swaps into S30 series for me. I did move again and got myself a large detached 2 car garage that I have been upgrading it over the last few years with insulation, heat, lighting, flooring, tv and stereo (obviously lol). No more working on a gravel driveway for me! I actually enjoy having friends come over and wrenching on their cars for fun! I may be doing milder stuff these days, but I still have my hand in custom fabrication and porting/polishing, and generally working on stuff that improves general VE of engines, weight savings and parasitic losses. Stuff I can do on my own without resorting to expensive "bolt on's"
    1 point
  34. Thanks, man! I appreciate the suggestion. I've subscribed.
    1 point
  35. Its 6 bolts to take the pressure plate off, and you would have to do that to inspect the clutch disk. The clutch disk is the wear item, so that's what you would need to inspect and make a call on whether to replace it or not. I would at least take it apart and inspect it.
    1 point
  36. Alright I have two complete sets printed. The finish didn't come out as nice as the prototypes because this material (PETG) is harder to work with but they are functional. I tested sanding and painting this material and it worked without issue but I plan to fabric wrap mine. @ihavearustedz @mutantZ Feel free to send me a PM and we can work out payment/shipping if you are still interested. I was thinking $100 for the upper and lower piece, I'm not really making money on these considering how much time I invested getting them produced but they will be significantly more durable than any original parts. Also if anyone is curious here is the gauge pod I designed to mount onto the upper cover. I just drilled holes in the cover to mount it. It's a 52mm gauge pod but the gauge I have has a 60mm face, but still does not block view of tach or speedo at all, even though it appears to in the photo.
    1 point
  37. Negotiated a bulk discount with the printer and am hoping to place the final order today or Tuesday, depending on how busy work is. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID 3. MAG58 - PAID 4. Crespo79 - PAID 5. Jeffrox - PAID 6. jhm - PAID 7. onthego- - PAID 8. onthego- - PAID 9. pepper - PAID 10. pepper - PAID 11. ModernS30 - PAID 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID 15. Sonethirty - PAID 16. S30TRBO - PAID 17. S30TRBO - PAID 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID 22. Oki570Z - PAID 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID 27. jnjdragracing - PAID 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID 31. JonRHD - PAID 32. 75280z - PAID 33. 75280z - PAID 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID 37. LanceVance - PAID 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID 42. 1 tuff z - PAID 43. 1 tuff z - PAID 44. Zlost - PAID 45. AydinZ71 - PAID 46. AydinZ71 - PAID 47. zredbaron - PAID 48. zredbaron - PAID 49. zredbaron - PAID 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID 53. evildky - PAID 54. torqen2k1 - PAID 55. torqen2k1 - PAID 56. torqen2k1 - PAID 57. torqen2k1 - PAID 58. torqen2k1 - PAID 59. torqen2k1 - PAID 60. Mayolives - PAID 61. Mayolives - PAID 62. Mayolives - PAID 63. bkz72 - PAID 64. Wizzurp - PAID 65. Wizzurp - PAID 66. Leon - PAID 67. Gollum - PAID 68. Gollum - PAID 69. Gollum - PAID 70. AB240z - PAID 71. AB240z - PAID 72. AB240z - PAID 73. AB240z - PAID 74. AB240z - PAID 75. AB240z - PAID 76. AB240z - PAID 77. AB240z - PAID 78. AB240z - PAID 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID 85. clarkspeed - PAID 86. niner11 - PAID 87. 1970 240z - PAID 88. 1970 240z - PAID 89. 1970 240z - PAID 90. 1970 240z - PAID (85 paid)
    1 point
  38. I plan to drive this car at some HPDE events and local club events but not on a professional level. Yes I am concerned about front end lift. The car has about 1 inch of rake and a large air dam in front of the radiator that should help keep air out from under the car. I sure I will need to make adjustments to fully sort out the car. I have a few more braces to add for the fenders and some belly pans for aero. The car is pretty smooth underneath except for the exhaust. I will post a driving video as soon as I get the car tagged.
    1 point
  39. Ok, so i think i have a working prototype for you to try out. I did a stepped lip on the side that buts up against the brake actuator and then did a minor fillet on the side that goes against the car. The inside diameter of the bushing is 28mm instead of 28.5 just to give it a tight seal against the metal "cup that it fits over. I just printed one off and will make a second one that is a little longer (21mm instead of 17 because i figure with the stepped lip it will slip up the shaft that it is sealing against). Again, i do not know how TPU filament is going handle some of the road debris and grease but it does handle heat just fine. I have made all the grommets for my engine bay out of this stuff and it still looks new after two years. If you want me to ship these to you, send me an address in a private message.
    1 point
  40. Hey Aydin, in the US, the 3.9 was '04-'05 only unfortunately. The '06 was unique in that it was a CLSD 3.54--'07 and later were all helical 3.54. Good thinking! I'm planning on inspecting the carrier and replacing clutches once the diff arrives. I had ordered fresh clutches from Racing Diffs with the thought that I was going to refresh my current diff but now they can be used for the Subi unit. Speaking of which, the diff has now arrived from the dismantler and is in Tyler's hands. He has gone the extra mile to pull the cover and take plenty of pics to confirm that it's indeed a 3.9 CLSD. ❤️ It'll be shipped out from Japan after New Years so hopefully in my hands in a few weeks!
    1 point
  41. Make sure that the suspension moves freely through the full range. Can remove springs and compress the strut with ratchet straps and make sure you don't feel any solid resistance.
    1 point
  42. To fit the struts I had to get creative. I already had camber plates welded and did not want to modify those. The BC setup is nice but not a large amount of camber adjustment. Not much problem for the front. I only needed a 1mm thick bushing to fill the gap between the shaft and camber bearing. After I tried to drill something several times I ended up just 3d printing one. The rear required some fabrication. I had slotted the towers and built my own camber plate/spring perches. To retify I duplicated the plate in aluminum and bolted the BC bearing holder from the bottom.
    1 point
  43. I have the ability to do them at home. I dont have a sublimation printer. So I can not print on shirts. I do that a cutting plotter and heat press. So I can do simple type of designs. Multi color is no issue. The logo posted by ihavearustedZ are easily done. If this is something everyone would be interested in, I have no problem taking it on and making it happen. I can also do stickers or banners.
    1 point
  44. Almost ready for the drive back to Utah tomorrow. Car has been running quite well since swapping the ignition coil. I'm currently in "square" GM truck coils, and next year plan on fully swapping all of them out for reliability so I'm not having the issues I had this summer. Christmas visit I think will finally be time to run the AC lines. Over 1000 miles on it just since Thursday, and probably another 1000 between short rides here and the drive back to Utah before I head off to Mexico again. Got to do some nice rides out here on the islands as well as up to Vancouver. Despite the repeated frustrations, and various rattles and small noises I'm not expecting becoming extra obvious with so many miles in it, it really is a joy to drive and I'm happy with how insanely different this thing is from even a few years ago. I was telling my brother in law that it's weird looking back at old folders of pictures I had of other cars for motivation because my car is better than most of them in most ways now haha
    1 point
  45. Another swap that I personally like is the K24 Honda. Yes it looks kind of silly in that big engine bay, but you will be putting the engine weight behind the front axle. Not sure if that officially constitutes a "mid" engine, but that a huge plus for road racing, autox, etc. You will also be shedding well-over 100lbs of engine weight compared to the L6 with nearly double the power (in NA form!). If you just want a street car, and plan to drive it more like a grand tourer then id go with the 6 or LS. If you want a small, light, great handling Z with more power than you would expect from a 4-banger, K24 might be for you. Only other negative I can think of is.... well... it sounds like a honda. Like all Honda's, they kinda sound like lawnmowers IMHO.
    1 point
  46. Old post but since someone just reached out over PM to ask me for advice about this very swap, I'll post here what I wrote them for others who find this post through search: I ended up installing the Datsun flange on the Subaru diff with an impact, just ratcheted it on. Bad idea. You need to find a better way to do it so you don't end up screwing up the input bearing on your diff. Mine started whining more and more after a while, and while I can't be sure that the way I installed the input flange is the cause, it is the most likely cause. I would take the extra time to do it right next time. How I would do this next time: get a long piece of L-channel steel from the hardware store, and drill two holes in it so you can bolt it to the input flange and hold it in place. With the diff on the ground and the L-channel bar as a means to stop the flange from spinning, use your torque wrench to tighten the nut to the exact torque spec (136 lb/ft). You can probably make this easiest for yourself if you lay the diff on the ground with the front support, and putting the L-channel piece to your right when looking at the diff. Now all you need to do to stop the flange from spinning while tightening the nut is hold the diff on the ground (perhaps get a buddy to hold it down).
    1 point
  47. I watched this "Ultimate Factories" show about a month ago and they were at the BMW engine factory. They were talking about how cool the aluminum block was for their I6 motor, and how hard it was to cast. A good 15-20 minutes of the show was about the block. I was surprised when they said that the block ended up weighing 90 lbs. An LS1 block weighs 92. I don't know how accurate the weight they quoted on the show was, but I know the 92 lbs for the LS is accurate. The Chevy I6 was discussed briefly a couple years ago. I think the issue was that it was too tall. Here's the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87482 I'm not sure if they ever pinned down the height issue or not. I still remember that Baja truck. Thing sounded insane, like an old F1 car or something.
    1 point
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