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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/20 in Posts

  1. So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it
    2 points
  2. As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start th
    2 points
  3. Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
    2 points
  4. almost done tuning the transmission (shift/throttle timing)... IMG_0405.MOV
    1 point
  5. Sorry about the JTR and JCI info. I was some time ago and I got the info a bit confused. I figured I was too old the try laying on my back and juggling a transmission on my chest and knees, so a mechanic friend did it at his workshop. Absolutely no dramas. He removed the transmission first and then the bell-housing. Had to replace the flywheel, clutch and pressure plates, and slave cylinder as a complete package. He had trouble bleeding the system so I have the car back home and will fit a new M/C when one arrives.
    1 point
  6. @AydinZ71 ya typically ill do a paper template, tape it all over the car and if I like it I'll either make a wood or wire buck.
    1 point
  7. Here's a picture of my current rear arms. The inner portion pivots on rod ends and both outer ends that attach to the upright are adjustable. I am currently designing another set that has the short outer adjustable arm towards the front of the car instead of at the rear. Absolutely no issues with these though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
    1 point
  8. I've heard of a few people have had issues with the upper bushings in the Konis, and I suspect that there are a lot more who have the issues but don't know it. Cameron aka Heavy85 is the one I can point to off the top of my head. Opinions on shocks are kind of like brakes IMO. You get people who put gigantic brakes on the front of their Z and couple them with rear drum or crappy tiny rear disc and then they report that the car stops so much better, etc. Most people, IMO, don't know what proper brake bias feels like, I say this because I was actually one of these people. I went to a driver'
    1 point
  9. You are absolutely correct. Since I posted this, I went back and checked the rule book. No way this will compete in ITS. It has been lightened extensively. No way I can add-back 200lbs to meet the min weight, amongst other things. This car will continue as spec EP, but will qualify for some other vintage specs (beyond SCCA). If I race it myself, It will likely be vintage club and maybe SCCA vintage racing, as I don’t have the time to train or funds to compete in EP (at least for the time being). I had a great conversation with @gnosez and he was super helpful! Going to take her to
    1 point
  10. Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.
    1 point
  11. Hi, I'm very shortly commercialising 15x7 +0. For 15x8s, you'll need to contact Gavin Doolan in Australia, he should be on here or contact via AusZcar and/or Facebook.
    1 point
  12. A couple of things based on 17 years and over 225+ track days with a 240 race car: Stock diff mount welded with two steel bars (17 years and no issues) Engine HP ranged from 150 to 350+ @rw Ran stock half shafts for 15 years with no issues Used any number of R180 diffs (3:90 Quaife/4:11 Quaife/4:38 OS Giken) Ran a 4:44 R190 LSD (stump puller) Swapped in an R200 3:90 w/Quaife using 300ZXT CVs w/Modern Motorsports stub axles The swap to the R200 was in response to toasting two R180s due to the 250rwhp/250#storque/10 inch wide rear R7 Hoosiers. One w
    1 point
  13. Hey guys, you might have seen my posts in the various facebook groups over the last couple of days, but finally I´ll post here too, after I gathered most infos about the commonly asked questions. I’ve a glass manufacturer on hand who will produce new glass for our S30 Z’s (2 seater) It will be thinner and therefore also lighter but still obtain all safety regulations including the E sign and also the DOT number. So fully street legal in Europe and the US including all necessary testing that goes with it. Some might think thinner means a weaker windshield and al
    1 point
  14. Sometimes a reality check is needed and that can be provided here by looking at Z race cars and their results. The fastest Z's have always used the basic stock suspension, it's great that there are those who think outside the box and who are willing to put their $ where their mouth is, Once they do that however they need to turn a profit so they have to be commited to their product. What does not seem to be widely understood by potential users is the complexity involved in any suspension redesign. At the very least the actual dimensions and locations of all components needs to be established u
    1 point
  15. Since the 5/8" all thread is smaller than the original pin over time you will develop what is called fretting. The fretting is a type of wear and can create a rusty looking finish. I personally would stay away from all thread and just spring for the pins.
    1 point
  16. I searched and could not find any information on wiring up an upgraded Honda wiper motor and using a universal 3 position switch. I have the Speedway wiring harness and could not get the stock wiper switch to work so needed an alternative. This worked for my 75 280z. You'll need : 30/40 Amp Relay Inline fuse 30 amp Universal 3 position switch
    1 point
  17. I used to say exactly the same about Harbor Freight... Then they came out with their "Icon" line. "Snap On" quality for 1/4 the price. I have tried them. I hate to say it, but it's true. They are going to completely change the market for pro-level tools worldwide.
    1 point
  18. As jhm said, a lot of the track attack stuff is very much not final versions and has run into some hangups for some people. Ohm is great to work with in my experience but he straightforward about the fact that the included axles for the rear kit have been the biggest pain and setback as a company and the biggest reason some of these kits have long lead times. Hard to find truly reliable machine shops to outsource the work to. Don't bother looking into the Hell Z. It's been a whole year since any update. If you're very sincerely trying to go all out and have that sort of budget, it
    1 point
  19. There used to be a rule on the site that there is no "best". Your choice depends on your plans. You haven't defined your plans, so really, your thread is just about what choices there are.
    1 point
  20. @jhm I ended up switching to TTT's micro BBK. I plan on purchasing the micro for the rear as well and then installing 15x8 -0 Enkei Compe wheels. I plan on lowering it pretty low, I realize I may have to roll the rear fender lips a little bit.
    1 point
  21. Shout out to my man Stefan who gave me the Tip on this NOS Front Fender for sale. Actually it said NOS but, i'm not 100% sure. it has a weird Handpainted primer-layer on the outside, but other than that looks prety NOS. it's in perfect shape (aside from a few small storage dents and scratches), has absolutely no rust (Some very small surface rust spots) and looks straight After all that's exactly what i needed, so i don't really care if it was NOS or not and i just believe in it *lol* Had to test fit it of course but nothing seems wrong with it. Looks nice in my g
    1 point
  22. IMHO, stainless steel is one of the most difficult (if not THE most difficult) material to work with for brake and fuel lines. The hardness of SS makes it more difficult to get leak-free connections as compared to softer metals. If the leaks are on the smaller/slower side, you may be able to resolve via loosening and tightening several times....helping the metal to take a "set" within the connection. It also helps to do this with the fixture unbolted from its mounting point (e.g. leave the Master Cylinder unbolted, or at least loose, on the brake booster when tightening the front and rear l
    1 point
  23. I’m here because of a few reasons: 1) seems to be populated by more seasoned, experienced people 2) I don’t do Facebook... too much political content and trolling. I do Instagram though. I post pictures of my work, and just unfollow people when they post a political (left or right) image.
    1 point
  24. Ahh, that is the question people have been trying to answer for a very long time, good luck on quest to find the answer. You might want to join a local Z car club, there will be many guys there that will be willing help you in lots of ways. https://njzclub.com/ https://datsunnissanclub.wordpress.com/tag/nissan-z-club-of-new-jersey/
    1 point
  25. one more week to go before Nismo Fiesta. There's a lot still to do. I really only expect to get it put back together and running to be able to get it down there. Real test and tune will have to wait.
    1 point
  26. I'm not sure who owns the artwork, but that would be cool to do. Just a warning having witnessed quite a bit, group buys and such can get out of hand real fast especially with money and such involved. I know there are on demand printing outlets nowadays. A bit more pricey and more overhead, but benefit of being able to get the items out quickly and one at a time.
    1 point
  27. Catching up on everyone's kits as fast as I can, here's what the complete cradle looks like with the optional crossmember. Snapped the picture before we bolted it back into Kyle's v12 datsun project.
    1 point
  28. While I have my dash out, I thought I would tend to the many non-working dash lamps. I'm replacing all the bulbs, but in fact I have found only one bad bulb (cigar lighter lamp). All other problems are caused by poor connection between the outer contact (i.e. not the base) and the bulb. Most of these can be fixed by cleaning or tweaking. But in one case, I got too agressive with the tweaking and broke off the contact. Using tin snips, I cut out some 0.008" phosphor bronze to match the original. I didn't attempt to create the original 'retention tang', but instead chose to rely on a
    1 point
  29. Back again. Couple more updates. I got the driveshaft adapter back from my machine shop. and it fits like a glove between the BMW CV joint and the r200 input flange. I guess my measurements were pretty good and their machine work was top notch. I also went ahead and got the tires mounted onto my wheels and tossed them on for a brief test fit. Granted there's no sub-frame in the car to hold the wheel in place very much, but just hanging there, it's looking pretty good to get away with out any fender flares. In front sub-frame news, I think I have all the
    1 point
  30. Pad compound and rotor size have very little impact on overall bias. They can be used to tune in brake feel, but it's within a few percent and at the end of the day, don't effect clamping force. At the end of the day you need to start with the correct piston stagger, which I'd hope T3 can figure out. A prop valve certainly would be a good addition, I won't dispute that. I do wish generally that these companies would tell you what calipers they use. Saying "Wilwood 4 piston" is about as useful as saying "New calipers" since Wilwood has so many caliper piston sizes within the models
    1 point
  31. Hey guys new member from Vancouver BC. Finally got my hands on a 73 240z. Needs some passenger quarter panel work from first inspection but will probably find more as I dig into the car. Struggling with which way I wanna go with this car... do I swap in a ls, rb, etc. Currently also building a 77 trans am that’s had a lot of work done. Should be done soon... well at least I hope so lol
    1 point
  32. I followed @grannyknotsuggestion. Spent $10 on a canister from a Miata at a junkyard. It makes a huge difference with the fumes!
    1 point
  33. @seattlejester KYB shocks were installed months before the clunk began, I know what you mean by the spacers and didnt need to use any as the struts sit fine in their housings. I should have mentioned, that before doing the mustache bar bushings, diff mount+straps, trans mounts, I had much much worse clunk then I have now. after all that work was completed I had no clunking or noise from the rear end for a few months of driving. now all of a sudden I have this new clunk but its slightly different sounding compared to the original clunk which was solved at the time by the work mentioned above. I
    1 point
  34. Got the Z tuned today! Made 295 hp and 340 ft/lbs torque at the wheels on 87 octane. The tuner thinks he can get to about 350 hp on 93. edit: makes 305 on 93 - I guess the tuner overestimated his abilities Still, 305 at the wheels is plenty fun!
    1 point
  35. Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.
    1 point
  36. It sounds to me like Madkaw has a prop valve installed in the rear circuit, and has it dialed all the way down. You can only "bias" a dual master cylinder system, otherwise you are proportioning the amount of force to the rear. This would be mostly in line with what OP had to do. Would be helpful to know the model Wilwoods you are using, as saying you are running Wilwoods all around is just like saying "I run calipers all around". If you know the MC size and the size of your pistons in the caliper, you can do some pretty simple math to tell you where you should be, and how much pr
    1 point
  37. Hi guys. Long time lurker in AZ. I have had a handful of of S30's, a Z31T and a Z32TT. Been around Z cars for almost 30 years. Please picked up a 75 280 about 2 years ago and I have been slowly messing with it. It had some pretty beet up fenders but they aren't rusty so I'm working on them. The car had a bad paint job on top of 2 other repaints so she is going to metal. I've had a few cars with triple mikuni's and already got some more but not sure if I'm going to go that route or not. Technology is cool after all, so is boost. I also already have done a ZX 5 speed swap and have the
    1 point
  38. Do you have the vacuum hose connected to the booster on the brakes? If so, disconnect it and plug it. You may have a big vacuum leak internal to the booster.
    1 point
  39. Spot on. I didn't have the time to email or call last night, but I sent them an email today with the pictures. I got a response in 4 minutes saying they'd take care of it, and another email 40 minutes later saying a new set with proper packaging would be on the way within a couple days along with a return label for the original set. I've never had to deal with T3 post-sale before, but it's good to know that their customer service is excellent.
    1 point
  40. I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake boos
    1 point
  41. Fuel reserve warning light stopped working a while back so (after confirming continuity of the yellow/blue wire from the sender to the light) I changed the sender and the issue has been resolved. I used a replacement unit from @zcardepot.com which is of excellent quality, has the exact same factory connections and cost $78 (compared to the unit offered by MSA at $200 plus you need to splice in a different connector!!!). I made a wrench out of 2" PVC pipe to turn the lock ring very easily, which makes the whole job a breeze. With a Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of one end of a
    1 point
  42. I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
    1 point
  43. All, I think I was able to resolve my wire identification question (using the FSM). From my combo switch to the Datsun side of the harness: red/blue = blue yellow/green = blue/white yellow/black = blue/yellow Based on the pinout provided in the swap thread(s), this would leave me with black = ground and blue/red = 12V+. I have not successfully tested yet, but I will confirm once I do. ………......…………………….. 70' Datsun 240Z __________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white-------pin 86 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white
    1 point
  44. My build has moved on quite a bit now, you make a list of things that need to be done and then keep finding other stuff to add to the list. I am very pleased with what the trimmer has done for me, all in leather and a decent price as well. I had to paint the floors and fit the sound deadening before it could go for trim, I also did a dry build of the dash and seats etc. Here some pics for those interested.
    1 point
  45. I'd be interested to hear a more in depth discussion of why mounting the diff and rear control arms to the two largest pieces of hardware in the rear of the car (that go through the rear frame rails) isn't such a good idea? Maybe something that integrates the locating holes. On my car, the factory dropdowns were woefully inadequate. Pretty flexy in lateral loading, the only real thing preventing shift was pressure from the opposite wheel. It's even been suggested by several members on my build thread to connect the factory mustache bolts to the rear control arm pickup points for a
    1 point
  46. Please do not post in the FAQ sections. I have moved this topic to where it should have been started.
    1 point
  47. Hi all - I’ve been meaning to comment on this for an age, but the car is now with me in the UK. I am planning on doing a build thread but progress so far has been slow & dull as I rewire the car. I’ve not even driven the thing yet! Although that may be a way off as I found a load of metal in the old engine oil during a change. Joy! Best place to see updates for now would be on Instagram @Ryan_Trott
    1 point
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