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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/20 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.
  2. 2 points
    As I mentioned on the previous page, a prop valve in the front is never a good idea. As brake pressure increases, the proportion of braking done by the circuit with the valve decreases. With a valve in the front, the harder you hit the brakes, the lower the percentage of front brakes you get. This is not good, because the harder you hit the brakes, the more weight transfers to the front wheels and off of the rears. So the wheels with less traction get an increasing proportion of the braking effort as you step on the brakes harder and harder. "Proportioning Modifications We could start this section by clearly stating that you should not modify your proportioning valve. But, what fun would that be? In all seriousness, making changes to the proportioning valve to effect brake bias should be left to those with the proper tools and measurement devices, but if you have tweaked your vehicle beyond recognition, this may be your only solution to restore a sense of proper bias to your braking system. We’ll start here with three of the most basic rules regarding proportioning valve installation and selection. 1. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed if the factory unit is still in place. Proportioning valves in series with one another can do nasty, unpredictable things! 2. If you have the deeply-rooted need to install your own adjustable proportioning valve, be advised that they should NEVER be installed in-line to the front brakes. The effect would be to make your vehicle rear-biased before you could say “terminal oversteer.” Front brake line pressure should always be left alone – only the rear pressures should be considered for proportioning. 3. In all cases, the basic brake system balance needs to be close to optimized to start with. This is the only way that a proportioning valve can be effectively utilized. You should never assume that simply adding a proportioning valve will address all rear-bias conditions, as even the best proportioning valves must be well-matched to the target vehicle." https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/d958a29e-4ebf-41fd-931f-bf7e4451801b/brake-proportioning-valves.pdf
  3. 2 points
    Found a site for downloading the FSM that I have never seen before, with a lot of nice information, link below http://240260280.com/Docs/
  4. 2 points
    The plan was to do some track days this year, so I needed some brake ducts and an oil cooler. I sold/bartered a set of series 1 scooped backing plates I had for a set of normal ones. No need to cut up the rare stuff. Took the new backing plates, cut them to 8" diameter, took a 3" exhaust collector and modded it to fit the cut down backing plate. Welded, drilled holes in the duct hole and then used cut off wheel and die grinder to open the hole in the backing plate up. Also took a section of the rim of the stock backing plate and welded it on for stiffness and to close the gap between the backing plate and the rotor vents. Doesn't look all that wonderful but I think it's going to work well. 1 down, 1 to go, then can modify my front end for the scoops and hook up the tubing.
  5. 2 points
    Old Thread, but if you are looking for a 280zx ducktail spoiler, we keep them in stock and ship out within 2-3 days. https://bhjautomotive.com/shop/exterior/280zx-tall-bre-rear-wing/ Thanks!
  6. 1 point
    Hi all! I thought some of you might like to see the the reinforcement I’m working on to rebuild my rusted out rocker. I have the “slip on” rocker cover for asthetics, but the inside will be home made. I have prepared a vertical rib (14 gauge) which will go down the centerline of the rocker and serve as the surface for jacking the car, and where both the floor pan and slip-on rocker will weld to. Between the inner axial rib and inner rocker, I have welded in additional ribbing to resist shear (20 gauge). I will add additional 20 gauge ribbing between the axial rib and the outer rocker. Just an engineer geeking out. I’m sure there is a lighter, more efficient design but I’m having fun. IMG_5198.MOV
  7. 1 point
    It´s just because it´s a Porsche. They did massive mistake with putting an engine in back of the car. Since then they are sruggling with it. Suspension and car dynamics are everything with weight. In that 911 they have so much weight in rear tires that suspension must be stiff, still weight is in corners by 90% outer wheel. What is fastest way to drive through corner? Yes, it is all weight equally in all tires. Nobody designs car wich is cornering just 3 wheels, unless you have to (because weight) WEIGHT IS EVERYTHING, that is where to start. And these Apex, Arizona, 3T system suspension things are basically just the same, because they don´t change dynamics. Adding static camber, etc. is helping but dynamics are still the same. To chance it you had to study you´r cars wheel movement in action. Put the car in poles, take the spring out of strut, and move tyre up and down. You want for 1deg camber gain per inch of a wheel travel. And that is just dynamic camber gain. Things you have to study, there is dozens. So buy these books, read them, think of what you just read and read again. Try to understand what causes what. I you don´t want use your head, buy some bolt-on parts and go driving... One thing last, there is no suspension that is best for everything, they are all compromice with something.
  8. 1 point
    As jhm said, a lot of the track attack stuff is very much not final versions and has run into some hangups for some people. Ohm is great to work with in my experience but he straightforward about the fact that the included axles for the rear kit have been the biggest pain and setback as a company and the biggest reason some of these kits have long lead times. Hard to find truly reliable machine shops to outsource the work to. Don't bother looking into the Hell Z. It's been a whole year since any update. If you're very sincerely trying to go all out and have that sort of budget, it's the best kit you'll find at near "bolt in" status.
  9. 1 point
    I bet when you were lower, your rear camber was closer to what the front was. That can make a big difference in balance especially if the tires are more camber sensitive. A little bit of toe can go a long way as well. Zero toe in the rear could be a big part of the looseness, depends on your rear toe compliance (rubber bushings or PU?). Also try zero toe up front or even a tad toe out to tone down the yaw rate gain a bit. YRG is essentially a measure of a vehicle's response to a given steering input--the more your point the tires out of the turn, the lower your YRG. Meaning point the fronts out and the rears in if you want to take some oversteer out. Softer springs could help but looking at how early the car oversteers during the cornering process is making me think that the main problem lies elsewhere. I could be totally wrong but that's what I'm reading in between the lines.
  10. 1 point
    Hi all! I bought my original 71’ in 2000, when I was 16. I had to sell the car to move across country. Now that I am settled again, I just bought another 71’. I’m not new to Z’s, but it has been a while. I was a mechanic specializing in Nissan’s back in HS and college. Now I’m an engineer working in the alternative energy industry. my old Z had an L28et with a T3/T4 and IV Supra intercooler. I did all the work myself, and intend to do so again. the one I just purchased seems to be an old SCCA racer. It has a fuel cell, complete cage, engine fire suppression system, stripped completely. Seller claims it has an R200 LSD. While I certainly recognize the R200 back there, I’m still suspicious of whether it is an LSD. its got the P90A hydraulic head, but still sitting on the L24 block. Must have been necessary to qualify in its class. anyways, just wanted to introduce myself!
  11. 1 point
    thanks, will do. couple of pics to show what I am working with for fun.
  12. 1 point
    @jhm I ended up switching to TTT's micro BBK. I plan on purchasing the micro for the rear as well and then installing 15x8 -0 Enkei Compe wheels. I plan on lowering it pretty low, I realize I may have to roll the rear fender lips a little bit.
  13. 1 point
    At least a year or so ago Carbotech will put any of their compounds on a set of shoes. I purchased Rockauto shoes and removed the material before sending them to in. As to keeping them cool I will take a picture of what an EP/ITS backing plate looks like after having a several holes cut to allow heat to dissipate. I ran steel drums due the amount of heat generated, I think with the holes cut I could have used aluminum drums instead.
  14. 1 point
    Great points! If its just a matter of noise, im going to pass on the rubber. Great point on the angular change... I didn't think of that till just now.
  15. 1 point
    New, wonderful, period-looking, dished and wide competition S30 wheels NEW ! 14x7J ET-16 PCD 4x114.3 CB 73.1 Weight 6.82kgs Color – bronze/anthracite Interior diametre (to pass over brakes and calipers) 345mm. Also fits Nissan PS30-B Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX and other Datsuns. Supplied with centre-hub stickers of either a Z design or REAL WHEELS (specify when ordering please) and an exclusive white, REAL leather key ring. Uses standard, tapered wheel-nuts : tyres (tires) fitted were 195/70x14R Prices (shipping included) : Europe : €920 UK :£936 North America : usd$1390 Australia, NZ, Middle East : usd$1440 /aus$1978 Any questions, measurements required, please don’t hesitate to ask.
  16. 1 point
    What's the proper "stance"? It's all subjective. Lowered cars rarely pay dividends on the street outside of crushed air dams and high-centered speed bumps. The 260 and 280Z have a higher stock ride height than the 240z, but lowering it an inch or two will produce the appearance of the earlier car. As for wheels and tires, a 225 50R15 on a 7" zero offset wheel seems to work nicely on a slightly lowered 280Z.
  17. 1 point
    Brian, I just went through this nightmare. You will need to cut it all out. The rear hatch slam lid is actually four pieces of metal spot welded together. Two vertical pieces that flare out in opposite directions, one lower “backing” which is what bends and creates your hatch mounding life. The LAST piece is what is visible and available for $130 Online. I attached some photos of my cut and rebuild. It took 2-3 weekends. I don’t have a metal brake, so I had to weld the 90’s. IMG_4558.MOV
  18. 1 point
    doing some final testing....(it repeats the dyno clip but there's more)
  19. 1 point
    My 3.25 ratio is rarely used, I am actually gonna re-lash the gears this time as I forget tooeach time I use it. I have been waiting for some new vents from the USA for 3 months now. They should arrive soon I hope. bathurst is a hard track to build confidence at, zero room for error for over half of the track. pretty proud of not lifting for the kink too!
  20. 1 point
    The price and popularity of S30's has been going up for a while now, well before the 400z was even officially announced that they were going to make it. With more and more cars becoming numb, fat, and auto-only, there is going to be a shift back into older cars that aren't necessarily as fast, but are perceived as "more engaging". Add in that the S30 is beautiful, and is becoming more and more rare due to many of them having been fully rusted away or crashed into trees, and the price goes up. Until the price of gasoline becomes absurd (i.e. 20 dollars a gallon or more), I don't see the prices of these going down any time soon/ever. The people on Bringatrailer with too much money have definitely shot the price up faster than anyone could have ever imagined.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for the info. The speedo difference doesn't bother me much. I'd just like to keep the revs down as much as possible when cruising.
  22. 1 point
    I spoke with Greg at Motorsport Auto today. They have been using the same vendor for these bushings for many years. Prothane I believe. He assured me that the inner sleeve is to remain in and they will PRESS in even though the bushing looks big. I will give it a try. Stay tuned.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Well long time and I have finally bested my PB in the Ls. 8.64@157!! Also will be on JJ arm drop fastest in america. Stay tuned ,-)
  26. 1 point
    I have a 280ZX setup that was on my car for over a year and worked fine with stock fronts but you will need to remove the proportioning valve and retention valve in the the MC. I recently upgraded to the SM Wilwood kit because even with $200 hawk pads they were getting cooked at the track. If your car never leaves the highway this won't matter. Please don't take what TTT told you at face value. I swapped an SBC in my garage and the rear disk swap was 10x more frustrating to finally get everything working. Also make sure you're aware of what is required to remove the backing plates. You need an adjustable prop valve. TTTs statement doesn't even make sense, if you don't need a prop valve then upgrading the fronts later would be pointless and throw off bias... Just saying There is a reason to swap to disks, just do it right or you will end up wasting time and money.
  27. 1 point
    I had a hell of a time getting my SBC V1.0 started on my first go around, replaced just about everything external to the engine with new stuff. Turns out it was way too retarded and any attempt to start failed or resulted in a backfire. Here is what I finally did and suggest that you do as well. -Remove #1 spark plug and valve cover (removing the timing cover is preferred but not easy) -Find top dead center of the compression stroke via methods already discussed (align crank and cam dots if you have the cover off, more accurate) -Take note of the position of your harmonic balancer "zero" line and mark it on the timing cover (I use paint marker) -Line up the rotor with #1 spark plug pole on the cap -disconnect vacuum advance -Rotate the distributor 15-20 degrees counterclockwise (if you have a clear cap this is very easy, I usually set mine so the rotor is resting just before the leading edge of the cap pole) It should fire right off, I use this method now every time I have to resent timing for various reasons and it works without fail. Now this is only a starting point and you will yield too much advance to most distributors but makes for easy first starts if you are doing a new engine break in. What I have learned is that it takes a pretty serious carb or intake issue for the car not to start AT ALL, running poorly is a different issue. If it still won't fire run a wire directly from the battery positive to the distributor 12v terminal and check your ground connections, the problems a bad ground can cause are immense and frustrating.
  28. 1 point
    Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  29. 1 point
    I assume you're talking about these: https://silverproject.eu/front-lower-control-arm-adjustable-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z/?currency=USD They are cheaper then what's offered by about everyone else, and they look cheaper too. Why they went with some welded in tube and bushing is beyond me when everyone else goes with a heim joint. Unless you plain on doing a lot of very specific tuning and adjusting the length, you're eventually going find a specific length you want, and then you have a arm that basically the same as the stock arm except probably heavier.
  30. 1 point
    I got a pair of barley used 370z seats. Fit great, I just need to install new floor pan before I mount them.
  31. 1 point
    Okay, now driven on both setups i can tell this mod is way stiffer than original. For normal winding roads, brisk thru roundabouts normal setup is more balanced for my use, but on highway driving faster stiffer feels bit safer. Wet auto-x track would be fun to test on both, i think stiffer would understeer a lot.
  32. 1 point
    Well I ended up getting the NCRCAs and T3 front triangulated bar installed. Two new tie rods and a fresh alignment (2mm toe out) in the front, I did find that the rear has a pretty big toe in issue. Nothing I can do about that at the moment but the tires don't seem to upset so I will just run with it. I did some more cage work in the mid and rear including a welded STB and connecting the main hoop to the roof rails. I still want to tie the front of the rockers to the frame rails and up to the strut towers but can't find time. The car feels extremely tight and planted now even a lower speed. The Hawk HT-10s should help in the braking department and give me more confidence. The biggest change though was an unexpected engine rebuild. I started to loose a rod bearing so why not just rebuild the whole thing and give it more power. I followed COMPs XE274 cammed vortec build and holy S does this thing scream now. I can tell I will easily be 30 mph faster down the back straight just based on how fast 4th gear is over. I plan to do some logging this weekend but I am estimating that 40-90mph in 4th takes less than 6 seconds which is roughly my hairpin exit speed. I haven't tested 5th gear out yet since I am only running up and down the highway and try to keep things safe and reasonable but if it pulls anything like 4th I will easily be over 130mph before I need to get on the brakes. Only two weeks left until proving day.
  33. 1 point
    I also made a front strap out of some 1/8” cable with some tubing around it. I already have a rt mount so if it translates any noise I’ll take it out.
  34. 1 point
    Always evolving. Stay tuned for some rear end work. I have found I have slight differences in my rear trailing arms. Even with the adjustable eccentric bushes I am unable to get any neg camber or toe on my right rear. Rather than reinvent the wheel, or add a new subframe we are gonna work on the mounts. The 9 inch rear cost me way to much to start from scratch.....
  35. 1 point
    It's been a while, but the car was painted. I haven't seen it in almost 5 years, but I'll be picking it up next month. Really looking forward to tearing it back apart and putting some finishing touches on my LM7 swap.
  36. 1 point
    Always one of my favorites Yasin. Please make some new videos of this car and the 951 as well.
  37. 1 point
    Why are you looking at the wiring on the combi switch? Unless you're replacing all the wiring, factory relays and all with an aftermarket setup, you only need to look at the engine bay connector wiring. I've got an early 74 260z and just wired up the honda motor, I believe the wire colors are the same. I won't be able to test it for a week or two because I'm still working on other wiring updates, but I'll report back when I do test it. I recommend adding a SPST relay to the circuit and lubricating the wiper linkage before swapping the wiper motor. I have very little experience with the Z, most of my car work has been old BMWs and Volvos, but I did take a multi-meter to a number of locations on the car and the voltage drop is pretty significant all around. I probably would not have done the swap as my wiring plans evolved and instead started with adding a SPST relay. You can quickly add the relay and possibly solve your slow wiper issues(also lube the two main wiper posts!). If it doesn't solve your issue, the relay won't have harmed anything or taken much time to install. If you unwrap the wiring harness where the wiper motor wires meet the main wiring harness about two feet from the engine bay connector there will be a LR (blue/red) single 18ga(16ga?) which splits into three and feeds the reverse light switch on the trans + washer pump motor. This wire is hot when the key is in and switched to Acc or Run. Cut this at the joint and the single becomes the trigger (85), the triple (87) receives +12v from a fused wire to the battery (30), and 86 is ground to the chassis. I found the new aftermarket honda motors don't use the wiring colors mentioned in all of the writeups, likely due to the generic vs OEM unit. Also, it's NOT a '91 honda wiper motor. '91 was the last year of one generation and the motor you want is from a '92 to '96 civic or '94 to '01 integra, part #76505-SR3-A01. I ordered a $40 generic unit off ebay and it came with the hardware needed and the shaft was notched like the OEM wiper so no grinding to it was needed. The wiper mount still needed grinding, approximately where my squiggly line is. The heat shrink colors match the generic wiper wiring colors and the connector pic is from zcardepot with a slight enhancement to the colors. '74 early ----- Generic 92-96 civic 260z 94-91 integra wires Black ------------ Black Blue/Red ------ Red Blue -------------- Green Blue/Yellow -- Yellow Yellow ----------- White Blue/white ---- Not used TL;DR - install a relay and lube wiper pivots first, easier, quicker, cheaper.
  38. 1 point
    Here's the first thing that pops into my head. If you think this looks good, I say go for it.
  39. 1 point
    Minor improvements for v3, namely the ability to jump from 2015 to 2014 brakes and back as needed. Also tabbed a few spots to keep it from moving around too much during welding etc. David still rocking v1 in his 800hp car without issues half a year later.
  40. 1 point
    Looking great! Is that an OEM part or some after market that you've plugged what looks like a water temp sensor into, that's attached to the radiator inlet?
  41. 1 point
    Had to custom make a couple of offset interior door handles, as the stock ones would not clear the roll cage door bars. I knew this was going to be an issue, and initially planned to just use a couple of pull-cables to open the doors, but that introduced issues as well. Namely, the cable handles, unless very small, wanted to hang down and get caught when trying to close the doors. This was a bit more work, but hopefully a better long term solution. Basically they differ from stock only in moving the lever approximately two inches downward so they open freely below the door bars.
  42. 1 point
    Eddie M. There are some LSD's available. If you have any questions let me know. Thanks, Chip JDM Powerhouse
  43. 1 point
    I would find a level surface, and some good reference points on the car body, and see if the car is tilted or the flares are one the car incorrectly. Or if something else is going on. Reference points might be something obvious like the back bumper, or the bumper mounting points. Or the inner wheel well arches. Or the sub-frame mounting points for the suspension. If the car boy is tilted,then adjusting the suspension is reasonable,and will bring the body back in to line. If the flares are off, then adjusting the car body will introduce other weirdness, like a tilted look from the back.
  44. 1 point
    Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
  45. 1 point
    Load sensors is interesting, especially with a set of scales being ~$1000.
  46. 1 point
    No. Nissan named two differentials the "R200". You'll see people calling them "longnose R200" and "shortnose R200". The longnose R200 came on the 280z, 280zx, and Z31 300zx. The shortnose R200 came on a bunch of Infiniti's in the 90's, and the S14 & S15 and maybe some other vehicles. Before you ask, I don't believe you can just swap the LSD from a shortnose R200 into a longnose R200 without a buncha work. I could be wrong, and as always, almost all of this info is out there already.
  47. 1 point
    On my newly finished 71' 240z that is running a Datsun Spirit 2.8 stage II, headers, and rebuilt SU's, the car was not easy to start with the more aggressive cam. I had a previous engine in another 240Z which was tripple Minuki's and I used a Nissan gear reduction starter and that made a big difference in starting the car especially in cold weather. I did some searching around online to see what was available and tried the one from Classic Car Performance know for making performance starters for British cars https://www.classiccarperformance.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter which uses 5 roller bearings, and it has made a huge difference in being able to start the car easily in cold weather. From my experience the more noticeable advantages of a quality gear reduction starters are when the car is either running a performance cam or triple carbs. The car starts on the first try which never happened before and with the aggressive cam it a person whom is not familiar with a choke and Z cars would easily flood the engine but now that seems to be a thing of the past.
  48. 1 point
    @ETI2K, since you asked about corrosion control...these are two good products to consider. Have used both for several years with good results. https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Dynatron-Auto-Seam-Sealer-Caulk/?N=5002385+3293193911&rt=rud
  49. 1 point
    A major driver behind this was to maintain a factory brake bias and make things match front to rear. There are plenty of big brake kits already available with Wilwoods and custom hats. That's not what I was trying to do. The Odyssey rotors in those kits are further away from the upright, so the caliper is mounted completely outboard of the stock ears rather than in-line with them. I might be able to find a different slip on rotor that works in a similar location, but then wheel clearance becomes an issue
  50. 1 point
    Here are the steps I took to make the unit work in my Z Thanks for the drop box mtnickel https://www.dropbox.com/s/uwtsk97izkkz4uo/240Z-steering.pptx?dl=0
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