madkaw

Installing my WCR axles and ST rear seat bar and they aren't getting along. I took out the spacer bushing on the sway bar , but still need more. The bolt I'm using ran out of threads so I will gain a bit more when I can tighten the ends more. Anyone else deal with this ?

Glad this thread came up since I am getting ready to go EFI with my 71 . I have a hybrid fuel tank also(CJ-5) , and I have been using the stock vent box, but I want to just get rid of it. Fuel Tank inc just uses 2 vents on their universal tanks. One for the filler neck and one other to vent tank to atmosphere. My problem is tank is right up against floor and the vent needs to stay vertical and there isn't much room to go anywhere. I could use the original vent line and run the vent up front and grab a canister off of some other car. So doing all this emissions cause me to get check engine lights now?

Dragging up an old thread . Buddy got a 280/280 Isky . We went to degree it and same issue- wrong numbers . Pretty sad if you ask me. To make matters worse we found the balancer that Damper Doc rebuilt was off TDC by at least 15 degrees . Don't assume anything guys

I think it's a matter of paying the man or getting a different head . So you find out how much it is to weld but that is just the first part. Did you consider a p79 or p90 and shave? How about a mn47 and port . An early e31? Why box yourself in with the 42 head that will need so much work . That work should be left to the professionals

I guess I really got lucky since I heard and drove mine before plucking it from the motor. 500$ and sold everything I could pull off the car-lol

Good deal!!

Looking for the later version of the spray bar, or a new one! PayPal ready. Pics please

Okay- I'll be waiting

Pics sent to S_finnerty1018@comcast.net quote name="Aswad1981" post="1174401" timestamp="1467691978"]Got the whole rig except module.$150 shipped.

Tried to find it on eBay so I can get one, but can't seem to find a current listing. I'd buy if I could find:)

I know you posted this on classic too. Not sure why you think something better than a stock unit. A gear reduction unit like pictured is a later year STOCK unit. Best advice is to take your starter and find someone who rebuilds them locally. Maybe they can throw a few more winds in there so it will have more torque

I'm interested also

The title says it all. Just the pedestal will work, but would consider the whole rig. Paypal ready

I don't mind paying premium price if I'm getting a premium part. Almost 300 for a flawed part? Don't think I would be happy. If I told them I was painting it so appearance was not priority - then maybe

So you are saying you used an early HG that had oval shaped holes and you came up short on the top and bottom. It's not easy to see the oval shape unless you are looking for it. You throw that 31 on there and your CR is going to take another jump! Were you using a 1mm gasket ?

.035 gap? Shouldn't you be 40+

Cam?

Hate to hear you learned the hard way . I had some issues with that machinist himself -as far as running a business- but I think he knows what he's doing. He was so frustrated with those valves and refused to use them. Inferior quality in hardness. He said the valves wore funny on the stems and they cut weird too.

Damn- the same old boring sh!t

Google my friend. Just searched Cometic gaskets. They have about 4 different thicknesses I believe

Don't see many pics of these so I thought I would share . This one is a .026" gasket. Looks like quality stuff and should be for the price. Plus you get a cool sticker too!!

Doing more searching and pulled up RaceTeps page which sell the 4070 carter for their triple set-ups. They run NO regulator . Now if you read advertised psi on these pumps they are described as 4-8 psi? Gph is twice the rating as my carter which is 30gph . The more I think about , the more my head hurts-LOL. Actually, a pump on a triple set-up is feeding three bowls compare to most one bowl set-ups-makes a difference?

Okay-so the regulator is gone. I ran the car with the fuel pressure gauge out on the bonnet and it is showing 3.5 at idle. Driving around it fluctuates slightly from as low as 3 to as much as 4. Not sure what to make of that. It seems when driving and coming to a stop the pressure rises slightly to close to 4 and harder runs it dips to 3. Kind of hard to duplicate a dyno run on the street to watch my AFRs . It did seem that the AFRs did start to creep lean around 5K rpm in 4th gear, but now I'm 100mph+. I believe the Carter I have is good for 30gph-surely enough. So what about float levels? Could the float level set at the ragged edge of the minimum not be enough on a long WOT run? I think that the pump that has ample volume should keep the pressure right at advertised 4psi, or line loss should be accounted for? I also need to do a voltage check at the pump

I could never get my 40's smaller than a 62 pilot. You should be able to get that idle less also with that cam.

Fascinating as always! Every time I read another post in this thread I realize what an amatuer builder I am- but I'm okay with that:)