madkaw

That sucks. Now your budget just took another hit. $$ for those crankshafts. Dave have any at Rebello? Just talked to Dave the other day about my 3.2 build.

Don't know if I can help you with your specific questions - especially the transmission . I thought the zx trans were all vacuum controlled , no ECU control, so that shows you what I know-lol. I think most of the platforms are the same with the MS units, I think any MS would be better than stock ECU. I actually used some of the relays and such from a ZXT for my MS install. All I can say is that when you think you've read enough about MS , go back and read more

And putting MS in parallel with stock ECU- why? Have you read some of the installs on hybridz- like mine on the MS3x?

I'd say by listening to your question you have more learning to do . They probably recommended the SlimJim based on your knowledge . Did I use one- no- but spend days and days studying and Reading MS manuals . Because you know how to solder you can put a circuit board together ? And please use punctuation when posting so we can understand you.

One hot wire for power, don't have heat yet

Just finished 350z power , heated , leather seats. Really like the seats and yes it's tight. Managed to get drivers seat low enough to sit in there with a helmet on. I'm 6'2", so pretty happy with that. Yes they are a bit heavy and yes I would have preferred manual seats , but the price was too good to pass up and the stitching matches my car-lol

The injector does fit in the hole better with the other Oring and pintle . Though the Oring does not go all the way in the injector bore , it does look like it seals at the top. You do have to pull the injector out of there after seating it and the Oring shows a even mark around the edge like it is sealing . There really isn't anymore room for the injector body to seat since it is almost against the bosses on the runner now. The long pintle concerns me because the hole sits off of the injector spray holes. There is a gap between the pintle opening and injector nozzles, so will that impede the spray ? I guess I could run without the pintle caps also?

So I've read on line that folks just change out the pintle and O-ring on a 14mm injector at the manifold side to a smaller Oring to fit a 11mm hole. I bought a 14mm fuel rail from Pallnet and want to use it on my n42 intake. He sent me a "hybrid" seal kit with the rail, but not sure how it works. The pintle cap he supplied is longer than the one that came with my Bosch injector, but the O- ring is the same size , or very close. The O-ring is too big to fit in the manifold hole, just kind of seals it off sitting in the chamfer of the hole. So what am I missing here. It seems the O-ring should be smaller to allow to slide all the way in. I've never messed with injectors so I am an idiot when it comes to this. I did cut off the Bosch pintle cap and the one Pallnet supplied snapped on there, but couldn't use the spacer , just the Oring .

Right now I run a CJ-5 tank in the same location. I didn't need a fuel cell since I'm not racing mine. It is a plastic tank with metal cage. I also wanted to keep the fill point at stock location. Don't want fuel in my hatch. Getting ready to convert to FI and might change out my tank for a fully baffled steel one from Tank.inc . They also sell tanks with various filler necks to keep stock fueling. As far as fuel pump, just ordered a Delco OEM pump for a F-150. External pump with OEM reliability . Fuel inc. sells the tank with Walbro pump for about 400$

Kind of went thru a similar situation with a buddy and his fresh rebuilt L24. After the engine was warm it would rattle like detonation at around 2500-3000 rpm. We did every thing timing including a different dizzy. Tore the motor down for fear of damage. A different engine shop looked at and determined the bores were over honed and left too much piston clearance. The original engine shop tried to save original bore size and bones the sh!t out of it. I think it was like 6-8 thou over spec. Couldn't find any other reason for the sound. Engine is NOT back together yet. The bores looked like crap for what little miles it had on it.

They wouldn't ship?

I would also recommend stock ones in good shape!

Might have luck on eBay . I found old new stock Fuji valves pretty cheap. My machinist didn't like those SI valves . Something about the hardness not up to snuff

I have both trans - can I help by measuring something?

Great ! Options!!

I saw the pics of this head and its just a stock 42 chamber. I thought it was curious that it had this copper sealing on a basically stock chamber. Maybe had high CR pistons and was running race gas?

Not for nothing, but it seems like a lot of work when you can get the stock tach to work pretty easily with a tach adapter. For the most part I've read that the OEM tachs are pretty damn accurate and some can be adjusted. Buy a 50$ tach adapter and wire it and done. It will look stock and match the rest of your gauges if still using OEM. Since I have had my adapter on there it has worked flawlessly with the MS3X. Didn't you post that you couldn't get your tach to work before? Might give the wiring another try. It will a ton easier and faster than retrofitting something else. just saying...

That will have some compresson with the MN47 head.

You should be able to use a tach adapter to make the stock tach work which is probably better than most you can buy. I even got my current driven tach to work with MS3x with the 8920 adapter

Not all Pcv,s are the same, so choose wisely. You can use a stock Pcv , just put it in the middle of the run and use hose clamped on to the threaded end. I pulled a valve off the shelf at the parts store based on it fitting my set up, but it did not work the same. It bipassed quite a bit of air at idle vs. the OEM valve that hardly bypasses any air at idle. I was able to tune the car this way and it actually worked really well for idle and start ups, but didn't realize how different it was from stock until I put one on. I wish I knew what actual Pcv I was using ( for what car).

Beautiful build and attention to detail. You got this far so tuning the carbs should be bad. Didn't read the whole thread but hopefully you have a wideband to help you tune

Then please describe your build

I like the no spark plug wire look, but the nostalgic look of your motor it doesn't look bad. Could you run a Subby type COP and just go with a CAS ? I think the little coils would just blend in nicely on that valve cover.

I think the speedi sleeves are .011 thick

It's a shame the Speedi sleeves aren't a tad thicker-that would be a cheap ,easy fix for the shim