Neverdone

https://www.mcmaster.com/91390a210 Would something like that work? Not sure if it's the correct pitch, or even width, but it's something worth looking around on on McMaster Carr. It is just a big set screw.

1) It doesn't have a rear subframe. 2) Google "240z dimensions" there's a drawing that comes up as the very first picture. 3) Have you ever seen a 240z before? You can fit a V12 in there. 4) It'll fit a gas tank. 5) They won't feel modern, ever. 6) The battery pack alone weighs 1200 lbs. You're gonna be adding more then 500 lbs to the car. 7) ....what? Power steering pump? it's a 240z. 8) Don't ruin a clean one.

Speedhut makes GPS Speedometers that are available in KPH. They look nice and will solve your issue with an inaccurate gear driven speed reading. https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM4-GPS-03T/1/GPS-Speedometer-260km-h-Metric-(w--turn-signal-and-high-beam)

You're gonna need some big ass fenders.

Whatever "ambitious" engine swap you're planning on, has more than likely already been tried. Sometimes just asking, "Will 'X' fit?" is sometimes the quicker way to go.

You gonna be using something like this https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/bellhousings/honda/parts/RM-4096 Or, does someone make an adapter for the CD009 to the J series? As soon as you get the transmission sorted, I wouldn't see how this would be any more or less difficult then most of the other ridiculous swaps we come up with.

https://skillard.com/products/braille-battery-box if the sheet metal in the normal battery area is complete crap, might want to look into this as well https://skillard.com/products/s30-battery-tray-area-patch

Yeah. You can do that.

A longer line will always have more resistance to move material through it then a shorter one. You don't have to move nearly as much fluid, and with less bends, there's less places for fluid flow to "drag" against the walls of the tube. With a properly functioning proportioning valve, you can get around this, or you can just try and and get the lengths equal where you make your "T".

If he doesn't answer, you might get your info from here: https://www.carthrottle.com/post/tx4oK/ That picture I've been staring at for years, so you're not alone in recognizing a damn well sorted Z.

It's the steering wheel on the Hakosuka Skyline for the first GT-R. The R comes from, GT-R.

Start a monthly transfer of some money that goes directly into a savings account. Eventually that money will add up to something meaningful and you can then throw that money on your Z. Realize that above all else, a project car is going to take two things: time and money. Knowledge is also going to be needed, but that comes with time, so don't fret if you're not sure what to do now. The best thing you can do is limit the scope of your project as much as you possibly can. If you're looking for a fun, weekend car, then just clean up any rust holes you can spot, replace the sound deadening with some dynamat like material or lizard skin, and figure out what you're going to replace your gas tank with, and put it back together. Realize you don't NEED 300hp, you don't NEED coilovers, you don't NEED 17" wheels, you don't NEED massive brakes, and you don't NEED to have a world class paint job to really enjoy the car. Those are wants. If you can afford those wants (in both time and/or money) then do whatever you want to do. Start by creating a spreadsheet of how much certain things are going to cost, and realize that things start to add up quickly, and try and be as through as you can. Fittings and other small things may not seem like much until you have to order a ton of them. Then make a no bullshit assessment on what you're comfortable with spending on something that you'll probably never see a return on investment.

You don't get to just post a wildly different engine swap and then not post spec's or info about it! Give us the details man!

Fantastic! If you're going to upgrade the car, upgrade everything that ISN'T powertrain related first. Engine swapping is never cheap, easy, fast, and is never JUST the engine.

If you're going to use Poly bushings, be aware that using them on the stock tension rod in the front suspension is a bad idea. Read the linked thread, but it basically sums that the poly bushing doesn't flex enough and won't let the tension rod rotate at all, so it snaps. You can fix this by not using poly bushings on the tension rod, or change to an aftermarket tension rod that has a pivot point built into it.

What kind of bushings did you order? Rubber or Polyurethane?

Those are Panasport C8's. According to a guy selling them on HybridZ a whole lota years ago, they have are 17x8 with a 4.75" backspacing. Good luck trying to find them though.

Even though there's no such thing as an S30 that's ever "done", it's so nice to see one that's actually "done". Lookin great!

The main benefit, is that it's awesome. LOOK AT IT!

Yep. https://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Performance/Chevrolet-Performance-Tremec-T56-to-Small-Big-Block-Chevy-Installation-Kit/3515717/10002/-1

If you have a 350z, just measure it... If you dont, why are you asking? Do you have some monster engine that you're hoping to shove in there?

Maybe I'm missing something very important here, but it seems like a person with a drill, a tap and die set, and a hammer could make a new clevis out of some sheet metal pretty easily. Do you just not want to do that, or am I missing something.

Those are Western Turbine Wheels. I've seen a lot of 240z's with those, so you possibly could have ordered them from the factory. When I first bought my 240z, it was sporting one of those on the rear. But my car was a total pile, so don't take that as actually meaning anything.

I disagree with having to replace the cowl panel, it just needs to be sanded down, have the rust treated which is causing the bubbling, and repainted. At least the one I have was in worse shape, and I brought it back.