Neverdone

Do you just not want to go with the obvious choice of the SR20, or are you asking if there's a better, cheaper, turbo 4 out there? The only other option I could even think of that "could" be done on the cheap-esk side of things would be a Mitsubishi 4G63, or possibly a Volvo B234 or a BMW M42. All the engines have issues and different sets of costs associated with them, and I don't know if you could get them up to the 400 mark cheaper then the SR.

What mirror are you going to be using to mount into the housing?

https://skillard.com/products/datsun-280z-license-plate-light That do it for ya?

Do you have a picture of said tube? What engine is this? What car is this?

He put one in the FAQ section, which you can't reply to. The other two...no idea. They don't open for me either. His answer is simple though, and doesn't need a post. "My gas tank is full of shit, should I clean it?"

Prices of S130's will never be anywhere near the price of S30's. It's an 80's ugly car without having the charm of being an 80's box. I'm sure, as a car, they are better in basically every way then the S30. But people are always going to take the better looking one. This is true for everything.

You and about 25-30 grand and whole lot of time can have this.

Looks pretty similar to the Le Mans Blue that they put on E39 BMW's. It's gonna be hard to really tell because the lighting on all of those pictures is different, and changes the color.

Yeah, do it. What if it's great? Then make mounting brackets for everything and document how to do all the hard parts. We're gonna run out of SR20's at some point, having more stout turbo 4's is a good thing.

280zx has a completely different body. Why would it?

People have completely cut out the entire front section of the car. If you're cutting a structural member, just remember to reinforce it somewhere else. Having a weak frame with stress concentration points in it isn't a good idea, but you can overcome these.

Z31 300zx front hubs can be used, but in the rear you'll still need some sort of custom option. Some people re-drill the rear stub axle to accept 5 studs. Other than that, you're looking at a billet stub axle or some sort of new rear upright to accept a completely different kind of axle (like the Techno Toy Tuning Shortnose R200/R230 rear end swap) Silvermine motorsports can re-drill your stock stub axles if you send them to them if you can't find someone to do it locally.

If you're considering parting it out, I'd be interested in the radiator, front windshield, and those caster arms.

To not upgrade the master cylinder, means you're pushing the same amount of fluid, which means you're not pushing a larger caliper cylinder, which means you're not running a larger caliper. The only way an "upgrade" could do this, would be changing out your brake pads, and possibly rotors with holes drilled in them. Doesn't sound like much of an upgrade.

What is the lug offset? 5x100? 5x114.3? 5x120?

How much are you selling the BRE and 432 spoilers for?

Are you trying to use it as a temporary means to have a parking brake, or do you just wanna do burnouts? If you're trying to use it as a parking brake, just know that if pressure is able to get through the linelock (which they have a tendency to do) eventually your parking brake will lose pressure and basically turn off. If it's just for burnouts, I'd get the cheaper one, because you're gonna need the extra money for more tires.

If you're worried about returning to stock, don't get fender flares.

I like the custom knuckle. 2 questions 1) Is that an aftermarket wheelhub? 2) Where does the front of the diff line up? in line vertically with your front diff mount, or slightly behind it?

Longnose R200 is 4.25" spacing, Shortnose is 4.75" spacing. If you do get the finned cover you'll have to get a different transverse bar to connect the drop mounts for the rear suspension. The fins clash with that the stock piece and you have to raise it up. Arizona Z car does it like this. To get both the mustache bar and everything else it's about 550 bucks. Not super cheap, but it'll work, and it'll look fantastic!

Even a stock 240z has wires and electrical systems. You're just trading an engine ECU for balancing carbs...which involves casting black magic spells to make work 100% correctly. Also, post pics of your engine bay. There's not exactly a lot of BMW powered Z's running around. The rear end clunk is solved here. It replaces the strap that goes over the top of the front end of your diff. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

It's this one. Link isn't clickable for me either, but if you copy and paste it in your browser it works.

How long will an L24 last you? If you're an expert in those engines, and that's what you want, then I'd sell what you have and go that route. But if you aren't an expert in either engine, then I'd do some research on what you have now. Learn how to replace Vanos seals, learn how to replace the plastic thermostat housing with a metal one, learn how to replace your water pump with one that has a metal impeller instead of the shitty plastic one that some early E36's came with, learn how to replace your mechnical fan with an electric one so that the nut that holds it on doesn't come loose and explode. Other those those failure points, it's pretty similar to any other engine. You need to change the oil. You need to make sure its gaskets aren't leaking oil. There's nothing magical about it, or nothing that can't be learned with a good service manual and reading up more on the failure points I brought up earlier. I guarantee you without even looking, there's at least 3 youtube videos of guys replacing every single one of the things I brought up that basically holds your hand all the way through it. While BMW parts aren't nearly as cheap as Toyota Camry parts, they're probably on par on cheaper than 50 year old Datsun parts.

I'm not a huge "racecar" fan. I never understood why people spend what seems like zillions on cars that have raced... But there are TWO race cars that I could 100% justify buying if I had more money than god like many people seem to have nowaday. This is half of them. God damn is that cool.

Get the 6 speed out of a Z4. It bolts up to the S50 (you'll probably need a different slave cylinder to make sure everything works and more than likely have to modify the shifter arm). But right now, you have no overdrive. its' 1:1 gear ration in 5th for the M3 transmission you're using. BMW got around this by running a 3.15 diff in the back of the E36 for the manual versions. You're probably much higher than that because that is low. The 6 speed out of a Z4/330ZHP/a buncha other BMW's (ZF GS6-37BZ is the transmission) While this thread isn't 100% what you'll need to do, it'll outline the basics of what you'll need and issues that you may come across. https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=790149 With the ZF GS6-37BZ final drive of .85:1 and rear diff with 3.545 (Subaru made an R180 with this ratio on some years of STI) you'd be running about 2650 rpms at 65mph.