Neverdone

If you're not building a track car, why do you need to adjust your front suspension?

You can weld in corrosion holes on an engine. Make sure whoever is doing it knows exactly what they're doing though. Considering however that you have a Z that isn't in mint condition, and the value will change by a negligible amount, it might be cheaper and easier to just get a new L24 that isn't pitted out.

According to Rockauto and Autozone, the 8.75" brake booster is on 1995-2001 2WD Tacomas. There's a 96 at a Pick'n'pull near me. I'll see if I can go yank the booster and measure the bolt pattern today or tomorrow and take pictures and what not. Would be neat to have a readily available booster upgrade for 200 bucks that's truely plug and play.

Question 1: If you don't know what you're doing, and you're not willing to spend the time looking up how to fix it, I would absolutely take it to someone who does know how to fix it. This isn't a slight against you, I have no idea how much time or money you have. Question 2: If the area where the door has rusted is still in tact on that bashed up door, then cut out that portion of the door and weld it onto the area where the rusted door after cutting away the cancer. Question 3:

I've now bookmarked this thread. I was planning on getting a champion 3 row radiator and buying their two fan option, but now I'm totally just going to do this. I'll see if I can make a CAD drawing of the shroud when I'm finished. Question though: Why not just wire the grey/white wire to the thermal switch?

what gauge wire did you use to wire the thing up?

Does the Volvo fan really need that 70amp relay? Almost all other relay kits come with a 30amp fuse.

The RT Mount attaches to the strap mounting holes in the chassis as well for longnose R200 swaps as well. I'm not following why that really matters.

Buy both, return the ones you don't like.

That last sentence literally caused every engineer who designs suspension for a living to have a simultaneous aneurysm. So that's great, they're all dead now. I hope you're happy.

Usually you put the expansion joints just aft of the exhaust header to help mitigate vibration through the really long pipe that it's connected to. Where would you put them?

Those are XXR 527's 16x8.25, 0 Offset, 205/50 16 Tires As far as that spoiler, That's a Xenon 5128 rear spoiler. It's made of plastic. You can get it cheaper at Andy's Autosport right now if you really want it.

You wouldn't be the first to graft the front suspension out of a E36 BMW if you wanted something similar, but different.

Go to your local community college and take a class in welding if you're really worried and want more than getting your degree the University of Youtube. That being said, there's a lot of guys out there who put a lot of great information on this on Youtube. Picking up some random pieces of sheet metal, cutting them and welding them back together is great practice. Plus when you're done you have a welder and have learned a new skill!

That would drive me insane looking at it every time I opened the hatch. The rest of your car is looking pretty good right now. Are you going to be ok with that rather large cancerous section that's constantly getting worse?

That's a photoshopped 370z.

Zcardepot sells the brackets to use Maxima calipers. https://zcardepot.com/all-products/brakes/rear-brakes/rear-disc-brake-caliper-conversion-bracket-set-disk

where are you going to mount the brake booster and clutch master cylinder?

The shortnose R200 is also found in 1990-95 Infiniti Q45's, Infiniti J30's, and Nissan 240sx's. In those there are variations on output shafts, gearing, and if it came with an LSD or not.

The R230 for the most part comes out of a Z32 300zx turbo. You can also get the R200 out of a 89-95 Q45 which also comes with an LSD. Mounting them has always been a bit of an issue as they are shaped vastly different than the longnose R200 or stock R180. There are some options currently out there, and they are well built, but they aren't cheap. But nothing that's really good usually ever is.

You sure it's the Rheostat that's blown, and not a fuse? Also, try turning it all the way to one direction, and then all the way to the other a few times. Your connections could have corrosion on them. Sweeping through the full range could clean them.

Maybe, other V8's have fit.

A thought to consider. Singer, a car modifier who creates some of wildest 911's out there, remove all of the exterior body panels that are made of steel and replace them with carbon fiber...EXCEPT for the doors. Their cars are well into the 6 figures, so it's not like they just didn't get around to it. I do not know the reason for them not do it. It could be a safety thing, or possibly a legal issue, But even they don't. Personally, I wouldn't. There's a lot of other areas to lose weight on the car if that's what you're after.

This is the sticker he's talking about. It's on the underside of the hood. If your car doesn't have one, you can literally by one from MSA for 25 dollars.

Got any pictures of what you have now?