seattlejester

The OEM 7mgte injectors are 440cc low impedance, some of the aftermarket offerings can kind of go back and forth, I think TLF is a biggish vendor, but they use venom injectors so stay away from those. As chickenman said, buying the injector resistor pack with the injectors would be a good idea. On the supra it is a silver box with fins. Be wary the wires are fairly short so leave yourself quite a bit of room.

Replacing the lock rings would also help. Remember to clean the bolts off really well as well. They are big and tend to have a bit of gunk on them. Car looks quite good. Your lettering is a lot better than mine. Are they vinyl?

I think honestly I'm kind of in the same boat. I've done a lot that I want to do with the car. I'm doing cosmetics and going to work out some of the kinks, not sure if I'll have the means to hold onto it much longer into the future. I do appreciate the comforts a modern car brings, but I do enjoy the interactions the Z brings. Will be interesting what you decide.

I know one shop turned me away because they said they couldn't establish a frame of reference to start the alignment. Another shop told me that was basically bull, they just didn't want to take the time. I had the same thing happen with poly bushings. You have to use some type of thread locker on the inboard lower control arm bolts, similarly with those clamps make sure to use thread locker as well.

I kind of understand where you are coming from. Personally I plan on having a spare engine and transmission at some point, but that is due to a sense of ever impending doom and paranoia I happen to have. Having spares is nice, but the parts aren't unobtanium. You can buy spare rotor sections if you get a two piece kit and spare pads. You probably won't be able to walk into a generic parts store and get them same day for $40 a piece, but you could have a spare set with you if it is something you feel you are going to work through in a year. Given the cost of a track day having a full set of rotors and pads in your parts chest might not be a bad idea. Alternatively you can go with the vented rotors and 4runner fronts, granted even those I'm not sure if you could find same day off the shelf. Even rotors for my honda I had to wait a day.

Looks sweet. Love the little allen head screws. Subtle but clean.

Also it is of merit to look at what is the problem. If it is the smell of the exhaust or something of that nature there are sure fire ways to remove it. I know I hated my car when the inside was hot and I was getting dizzy from the fumes. Putting the exhaust out the side, sealing up the holes made a world of difference.

Hmm, that one is far more audible and you can feel it kicking. If the spring isn't helping it close that would be a problem. Injector resistors I believe are paired and it is that lone injector making all the noise. Probably better not to risk it. I probably will upgrade at some point. Just not sure if I was ready to now. Edit: I ordered another set of used injectors. Going to send them off to a shop locally to be tested if the price is right and get a set of 6 out of them. More reading to do on the upgrade path. Thanks for the brainstorm.

So I'm running into a lone injector that is unusually loud. I've isolated it and I can put my finger on it and feel that injector almost kicking compared to the other injectors which I feel just kind of pulsing away. Is that a sign of anything? Panicking part of me is thinking I should order new injectors. The reasonable part is thinking the AFR's are generally good so it isn't sticking open or anything. The logical part of me says to send off the injectors to be tested. Any thoughts? I'm almost contemplating grabbing a spare intake manifold and bolting the fuel rail to see the injector spray, but I fear that would make a massive mess everywhere. Some factors to consider Testing injectors would cost ~$40 for all 6 Test and clean would cost ~$120 for all 6 Reman'd injectors would cost ~ $175 for a set of 6 Then there is the upgrade path to consider. Thoughts very much appreciated. Car has a 2jzge NA-T running running a harness that was on a 7mgte, so it has a resistor box and 7mgte injector clips

Anybody have a set of front turn signal housings for a 240z for sale? It is ok if it is cracked. I am planning to order a clear lens, would be nice to have a full setup ready to plug in.

It's an STI rotor with a different pattern according to their website. I mean what are you doing to your rotors? Or are you running metallic compounds? I've never really heard of anyone being too concerned about the rotor to your extent before. I'm with you on the drilled rotors. You can get rotors in blank form TTT offers it as on option if you get their kit, I can't imagine silvermine would not. We've had glowing rotors after drives, still don't find them cracked or anything

Appreciate you putting in the time to figure some of this out!

...what is your concern? The silvermine kits use a OEM style rotor which you could probably pick up from a parts store. The TTT kit uses a hat/rotor setup and you can pickup replacement rotors for around $40 a piece, Brembo blanks used to run about $40 for my daily driver so pretty comparable I think. The few people I know who run a lot of track days don't replace rotors all that often. Granted they don't trailer their cars either so they tend to run street style pads which probably don't adversely affect rotor life as a harsher pad would.

I would almost recommend the bags. Those flat rate boxes end up pretty expensive since people started to abuse them shipping heavy weights and stuff.

Run it by the forum first . Half of my thread I think is me thinking out loud. The other half is me asking friends their advice and thoughts. I definitely can be annoying though The thing is car being toast is ok. You being toast not so good. A lot of people use the term cage incorrectly so if you meant a roll bar then that is fine in almost all aspects. A cage though is pretty unforgiving in our cars. You can do a pretty good halo bar, but there really isn't any bouncing your head off of that which can happen in even a slow impact crash, you can add the high density foam pads, but then you have essentially a 4-5 inch diameter beam right next to your head at all times. My car in full reinforcement spec has a whole bunch of bars, people always comment on my "cage" in reailty I think I might actually be removing it if not simplifying it greatly in the near future.

Oops I meant left assembly. The combo switch on the right houses the wiper switch which has several positions and the headlight switch so it is a bit harder to get rid of. You could do it though. Just a matter of where you put the switches and what functions you want to keep. A full cage is really not a good idea if you plan on driving on the street, which I imagine this would be for since I don't think any club or track association would pass tech with a fuel cell in the passenger compartment. Bash bars also really aren't designed to take hits really. They are designed to collapse to a certain extent for sure, but they aren't really an exo skeleton which is what would be required if you were aiming for the safety aspect. I too was really concerned with the fuel smell, but haven't had to deal with it. I think the AN line helps quite and making sure the vent points outward helps.

For sure, I keep loosing track of if you are here or back in Utah. Car seems sorted for the most part, so pretty comfortable taking it out now *knock on wood*

Yea mine does prohibit a traditional exhaust to some aspect, granted I shoot my exhaust out the passenger side so not as big of a deal. The aspect of having a fuel cell in the car would be: 1. Annoying, all that sloshing fuel, and if you have the return going to the top of the tank all the dripping sounds 2. Dangerous, not mentioning the sure fire hazard, but a full fuel cell is a lot of mass, on the brakes it is going to have to fight a lot of mass to keep that from moving. 3. Performance, you are shifting the weight up about 2 feet in the car.

Went on the first long drive to a cars and coffee last weekend. It was really great to finally be at a meet in my fun car again. It was a fun conversation starter as well. Popping the hood occured several times. The Mustang parked behind me and the owner was a really cool guy, I had seen his featured video on egarage, and he was just a pleasure to talk to. We compared our swaps, talked about people disapproving of the swap, kindred spirit right there. Mechanically the car didn't miss a beat, the temperature didn't go above 185, oil pressure stayed consistent when warmed up, and engine cruised without problem. A couple things did pop up of course. I think I lowered the boost to keep myself from glazing the clutch, so overboost was very apparent and intrusive. I imagine with a passenger in the car the increased load also made it kick in more readily. The rotating noise I was concerned about actually turned out to be the driver door just rattling. It seems it isn't quite tight against the car as if I put my hand on it and pull inward it goes away. The rattling noise in the rear was the hatch. The adjustment on the aerocatch seems to be a bit off so the hatch vibrates at highway speed. Putting a microfiber towel to space the hatch up took care of that for the moment. (Fairlady took this pic, I think it is awesome) After the meet I decided that instead of a planned cruise we should head up to Stu's Self Service Garage for some lift time. With both of us in the car it was rubbing the fender the rear on dips even with the dampers maxed out. Ended up going up about 3/4 of an inch. That leaves about 4 inches of height adjustment. I was thinking that that is still insane, but in retrospect if I had flares I would totally drop the car about an inch from where it was. Goodness I do like how the rear arms turned out. They were actually still covered in oil from when the 7mgte spewed its guts. It was a really good day. The clean underside does remind me that I should make the rest of the car more presentable as well. I have some aesthetic things planned for the near future. I'm even contemplating modifying the roll bar to give the driver seat a couple more inches of legroom.

The home depot one kind of sucks since it went to a flat end instead of a curved one. The curved one you could slide in between the crank and the seal, the flat one you have to do it like it says in the manual and cut a slit and stick it in and pry out if you don't want to knick anything. Make sure to clean that area really well, very lightly FIPG the outside and very lightly grease the inside. It is tricky to hold after, but apparently really worth it in the long run. I really like doing the high beam switch like that, gets rid of that whole right assembly especially if you have another switch for the turn signal. Hmm most bullet style mirrors are adjustable as well. You just undo the little slotted screw in the front and rotate and relock. No vibrations? Mine you can barely tell any shape in them, I imagine yours with the longer stem would be even more shaky. Honestly though not bad. I do think they are a tad long, but can't imagine they would look better being shorter nor any more functional. Your fuel cell just sits in the car? I thought that was really no bueno.

I didn't really say anything about fuel. It doesn't have to be, but a turbo dizzy would be easier to setup and allow for a bit more adjustment especially if it is the optical one that you just plop the DIY optical wheel into. You could go EDIS with a trigger wheel on the crank which doesn't require a distributor, you can go COP's which also don't require a distributor.

Throttle body is massive. The only real option is like $300+. The company that supplies the flanges used to sell one for a couple hundred, but they seem to be out of stock. Dexter adapted smaller. I cut off and welded on a smaller one. No worries, just wanted to make sure you weren't heading into a world of hurt with a front sump. Hmm then would you be planning on cutting the hood? The turbo sticking out is always a fun little treat. I'll have to add that to my list. The only option I've found that is complete was collins, their small size dual clutch was the cheapest option for a twin disk and kit and that was a solid 2k.

I'm not sure welding would be suitable unless you had a lathe and a way to balance them later on. If you track your car regularly I think it best to start looking at the options above, CFR is on here and offers them.

That is quite a nice work place you have there. I am assuming you meant "eBay shit" instead of easy? Nothing against them at all. I have a fair bit of parts whether that is the intercooler or catch can. I've also seen turbo's make decent power. My point is if you are trying to stay low buck, then stay low buck. I bought a $8-900 turbo with a warranty so when I opened the head and found some rust scale on the valves I didn't have too much of a problem having the head rebuilt. If my turbo was a $1-300 eBay turbo then not really a consideration wouldn't really be worth opening the block at that point. Just to cutoff questions at the head I would also guess by FWD you meant FFIM? What are you going to do about the throttle body? That was kind of the challenge for dexter and I. Did you really get a front sump? That may prove troublesome. What are you running for the ignition? Looks like the distributor is removed You mentioned microsquirt harness, are you going to run a microsquirt? My understanding was their ignition control was really quite limited. What adapter kit and clutch did you end up going with? 750 is cheaper then most I have seen. 150 for a clutch also seems like quite a deal.

Kind of a bad omen if you are asking that. Kind of like when a kid stares at a power outlet for a long time and asks you for a fork. An NA distributor has no electronic control if I'm not mistaken. Locking the NA distributor is a thing people used to do when timing control strategies were expensive or inapplicable. You set it to a value via a timing light and disable any manipulation strategies whether the springs or the pressure assist. Usually done by cementing the mechanism or jamming it to prevent it from working. Depending on what you set it at though you would either have a poorly running car at idle or a poorly running car up top (poorly running at top could be catastrophic). I think the most basic megasquirt units will do spark control via EDIS, so that is kind of a thing of the past. I think the only people that still do things like that are lemons racers who cannot spare the expense from the JY.