Miles

This can be a bit confusing. The Toyota S12 + 8 caliper came in two versions: solid and vented. See pictures. And then there is the S12W caliper that only came in the vented version. You can use either the S12 + 8 vented or the S12W calipers if you want vented brakes. The main difference is in the piston size. Both vented versions of the Toyota calipers require the use of a 84-85 300zx non-turbo rotor The non-vented S12 + 8 caliper will work with the solid stock 240Z rotor only. This may clear things up: http://driven-daily.com/build/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades Opinion: If your car is a daily driver, the Toyota solid rotor version is all you need and it is cheaper. The Vented swap requires a spacer to line up the caliper with the rotor. Also, the larger Toyota caliper may rub on your wheels which will require a spacer to move the wheel out. Don't forget that the Toyota calipers require a larger volume of fluid which means going to a larger 15/16" ZX master cylinder or a Wilwwood 1" master cylinder. Some people say that the stock MC is fine, but some don't like the long pedal travel.

You were given a lot of good advice recently in another post just like this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125902-240z-dies-when-choke-is-fully-open/?do=findComment&comment=1177199

Did you try post #5 above?

Welcome Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/

The door handle has a rod with a nylon adjustment nut. This adjustment can cause the door mechanism to unlatch the door if the nut is turned too far down the rod. You can test the adjustment by moving the door latch to the closed position and then pulling the door handle while watching for the latch to move. See pictures.

73z85.0 You bought the JTR, but did you read it? See page 8-2 of the JTR Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual. Everything you need to know about this install is in the manual.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100400-hesitation-on-acceleration/?hl=hesitation

Just checking the floats for dirt etc, is not what the other poster meant by "did you check the floats". Setting the height of the SU float level is critical to getting the correct amount of fuel to the nozzles. There is an adjustment on the float that has to be done correctly or you end up lean or rich. Bowel Fuel Level: See picture The best answer to your question is: You should buy the video "Just SUs" and watch it at least five times: http://www.ztherapy.com/

How about this: 1. Remove the thermostat and replace the thermostat cover 2. Remove the the top (return) hose from the radiator 3. Remove the bottom hose from the radiator and secure a garden hose up inside of it sealing the hoses with duct tape. 4. Turn on the garden hose full. 5. Start the engine reving it to pulse the water going through the engine. This way no scale enters the radiator and the water pressure/flow is increased by the water pump.

That is scale from inside your engine. Most likely you will find that scale inside the water pump as well. Heater and heater hoses too. Pull the heater hoses off where they connect to the engine and inspect for scale. Don't take the hoses off at the heater because they are a bitch to put back on. You might be able to flush the block and heater core out before you put the new water pump on. The radiator will just plug up again if you don't flush out the block. Maybe one of the L6 guys will know how to flush out the block.

If you need to replace the radiator Arizona Z Car sells a bolt-in aluminum radiator for Z cars. It is good quality and it is my understanding that it is a Ron Davis radiator with Z car mounting brackets. Keeps my SBC 350 cool in the summer. http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html

See the red paragraph in post 5.

Cooling System Tutorial: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

Google "how to test a thermostat" Also, YouTube has videos on this. You will need a thermometer for this test. Go buy a digital thermometer. A belt can slip with no noise.

Could be as simple as a loose V belt if it started suddenly.

Time to stop turning knobs and read up on SU carbs while you are waiting for the video to arrive. Watch the video five times and then go out to the car and identify every external part of the SU carb including every linkage and set screw. You will need this information to tune, repair and ask meaningful questions. Go to the download forum and download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for the Z car you have. It will be a pdf file. Take the file on a thumb drive to Staples etc and have them print it out for you. Google: "tuning su carbs 240z" 100s of how to tune/repair SU carbs on the web. Book mark the sites. Search HybridZ as there have been many threads dealing with your exact problem, some as recent as the last few weeks. Note: worn throttle shafts leak air, worn/bent needles and/or improper float adjustment make it impossible to tune a SU carb by just turning the mixture adjustment nut. You will need to purchase a "Unisyn tool" that is described in the video. Ztherapy and MSA sell them. The Unisyn is used to synchronize the twin SU carbs. It is explained in the video. There is an adjustment in the center (round disk with bumps) that is used to adjust the sensitivity of the red puck in the clear plastic tube. I usually adjust it so the red puck moves between the bottom and the first line on the tube. The carbs are in sync when the red puck reaches the same height on the tube for both carbs at idle. Note: everything on the SU carb must be working and properly adjusted before you do this. Do a Google image search for "SU carb float adjustment". There are some good graphics that explain why this is important. Until you develop and understanding of the SU carb there isn't much we can do to help you.

Buy the "Just SUs" video from Ztherapy. They also sell SU parts. http://www.ztherapy.com/

Get the low and high gauge readings and post. Don't swap, remove or change any more parts or mess with the timing or fuel system for now. You need to do a lot of reading first. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car. They are free on-line from several sources such as HybridZ, ClassicZcars, various Z club websites. Check out a website called zenon that has FSMs for download etc. The FSM may have a trouble shooting guide for your problem. Look in the HybridZ downloads forum for the FSM. Or Google 240Z factory service manual. As long as you own a Z car you will need the FSM. Problem diagnosis requires knowledge: Do a lot of reading on radiators and cooling systems. Google terms like: "runs hot at cruise", "engine gets hot at highway speeds" etc. Post some pictures of your radiator front, back and side.

Need to sort out what you actually have: After market temp gauge, yes? Have you calibrated the gauge? You added coolant. Did you refill the cooling system completely? Did you note water flowing with the cap removed" Can you identify the radiator? Stock, after market aluminum, etc. Post a picture. Confirm cooling system is full and water flow: cold engine With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Did the water level drop? If so, add water while the engine is idling until full and replace the cap. Can you see water flowing? Gauge calibration: Using an electronic digital thermometer with a probe (meat thermometer style) Record temperature off-highway speed. Take a reading off of the radiator (probe between the cooling fins) near the return hose. And note the temperature reading on the dash gauge. Write the number down. Record temperature after driving highway speed. Take a reading off of the radiator (probe between the cooling fins) near the return hose. And note the temperature reading on the dash gauge. Write the number down. Let us know what the temp readings are and the results of driving highway speed after verifying that the cooling system is full. Never rely on dash gauges - verify by doing calibration checks. So is it actually overheating or gauge calibration? I had exactly the same symptoms with my stock 240Z and V8 240Z. The problem was water flow and radiator capacity in both cases.

More information such as year and model Z car helps in answering questions. Replace them both and save a headache later. If you are not knowledgeable about Z car brake systems read up on the booster and MC change paying attention to "push rod adjustment" , "reaction disk fell out', bench bleeding etc.

Sounds like you have a good plan. Keep posting your progress.

Having the engine high and forward was probably ok as a drag car, but the car will handle better with the engine back and low in the engine bay. Next time you go to the store place a 24 pack of water bottles in the front of the basket and wheel around some corners. Note resistance to steering input. The first 240Z I bought had the SBC 350 and trans (four speed) installed which I thought would save time. It didn't. The engine was installed Scarab style like yours. After going through the car, and joining HybridZ, I decided to reinstall the engine in the setback position using the MSA V8 swap kit and replaced the Saginaw four speed transmission with a 89 Camaro WC T5. It was a lot of work to fix the mistakes the PO made, but it was worth the effort. For my second 240Z V8 project I bought a two-owner, well maintained, 72 240Z. It was much easier and resulted in a low budget daily driver based on: SBC 350 crate engine installed set back and low (not as low as the JTR) Camaro WC T5 transmission 280Z R200 differential poly urethane suspension bushings Tokico struts Stiffer springs 180 lb/in front 220 lb/in rear (AZC NLA) Arizona Z Car radiator with electric 3000 cfm fan Dyno: 240 RWHP (so it is still a 240Z!)

The engine mounts shown in your picture are based on the original Scarab engine install which was high and forward in the engine bay. You can pull and then reinstall the engine using JTR, MSA or John's Cars installation kits. http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/