jeffer949

Ok i will take a shot at actually answering your question. the problems i see with the swap your talking about is the 2nd shift fork and the counter shaft bearing. To do the swap from ka tranny mated to the L6 bellhousing you have to bore out the countershaft bearing hole and you have to bore out the 2nd shift rod hole to 5/8. So when you go the other way the countershaft bearing is going to be to small for the bellhousing. Granted its an easy fix with a bearing swap but the bearing isnt cheap and you have to order it from nissan and it runs like 50 or 60 bucks if im not mistaken. Now on the 2nd shift rod your rod is going to be to small for the hole in the bellhousing. now you could make a bushing and put it in the bellhousing to make it work but unless you have a machine shop yourself, your spending more money again. So to answere your question the answere is yes it can be done but your going to end up spending probably around $100-$150 in parts and having stuff machined. so why not just get the sr tranny that can be had for cheaper. I know i can find ka24de trannys all day long for 100 bucks.

stock pistons do have numbers on the tops of them the stock zxt pistons have p90 on the top of them if im not mistaken. i havent taken any of the other engines apart so im not sure. It could also be a cast replacement piston also.

the 280z bae turbo kit used a j type coupler thing off of the na exhaust manifold. The 280zx kit had its own cast turbo manifold. the cast manifold has a t4 flange on it that had a exhaust opening that could of been opened up. So im assuming the 280z would have the same flange. So you need a t4 housing turbo or you need to get a t4/t3 adaptor and run a t3. I would just maybe suggest a rebuild kit. Check gpopshop.com they might have a rebuild kit for it.

was the tab touching the case though??

LoL chris i have to say your a man after my own heart lol. Im 26 and have been in cuffs 2 times because of my z. lol Well more because the fact that i forgot to pay tickets and my license got suspended a few times and then i would get pulled over. Fun stuff ehh?

I dont use a radar detector to tell me when i need to slow down i use them to tell me when it is actually ok to go fast lol. Once i pulled out of a car meet and took off on a run up through 4th gear. There was a cop behind me. There was a hill that obstructed his view lucily he clocked me at 90 after i had been on the brakes a LONG time. I went out and bought a radar detector the next day. lol .

Well lets just say my driving record was clean when i got my Z. I didnt get in trouble alot till i went turbo. Lets just say i have a court date on thursday for my exhaust being to loud and no turn signal. I dont know how the cop expects the exhaust one to stick as it has a full exhaust system and my car is rather quiet. But mine def. gets me in trouble. luckily not when it should ie. racing down the interstate at 2am lol

I have those are old pictures. Good paint job though

When i was on stock electronics i would have to take my right foot and every once in a while give the ecu a tap tap and it would start running better lol.

Not quite brickyard but i like it.

Take a big screw driver and put it in ujoint and use it as a pry bar to move the driveshaft.

The white means they are lean. The one dark one might mean that you have some bad oil control rings.

So the other day i was driving down the interstate. A camaro SS got on to the interstate and pulled up beside me. He looked over at me, it was a mid 40's guy that looked like he was going through a mid life crisis. He kind of had a smirk on his face and then floored it. I nonchalantly shifted from 5th to 3rd and got into. He already had like 2 cars on me and i quickly caught up and went flying by him. I then slowed down and got beside him again and he looked shepish and hurt that he just got creamed by a import. Its moments like that that make me love my car and make it all worth while. But im not gonna lie. I curse my car pretty much daily. Its getting less but it still happens. I say do what you want. and rust can be repaired.

i remember holding the light for my dad while he was worked on his Z's, Good times. The funny thing was like 2 thanksgivings ago my dad was in town and i blew a head gasket so i had to replace it and he helped me but this time he was hollding the light!! lol He did still remember what went where though which is amazing since its been over 20years since he has touched one.

With a mica pad so it wasnt grounding out. The drain is the same as the mounting tab so if you have it straight mounted to the case which is grounded its just going to take the least path of resistance and go to ground instead of go through the valve.

No its not the gm valve its the one that diy autotune sells right now. And I guess i should of been more clear. Im running the boost control in open loop mode so it only goes off of the boost duty targets instead of the kpa targets.

So i got the boost control to work. I still need to mess with it more but i was getting a pretty steady 10psi with the duty targets set at 40 percent. I want to mess with the gain some to see if i can get it a little bit more stable. And of course i need to raise the duty up alot to get me back up to 20psi http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#boost the the circuit mod that you do on the board. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ebc-electronic-boost-control-solenoid-kit-p-285.html This is the solenoid that im using from diy auto tune but i might try to use the solenoid that is built onto my HE351CW turbo. One thing that i did that im not sure if Prox. did when he tried it was i isolated the IRLZ44 from the case or what ever you have it mounted to. I wish i still had a camera so i could take some pictures and make a vid but it broke. So no dice.

Man that sucks Im on my second engine in like a little over 15 months. It sucks but it is kinda what to expect when we push the limits of these engines. Im debating right now on if i want to build my second block with forged bottom end or if i want to scrap the l-series or if i want to go with a 2jz-gte or a lsx. so many options and its really hard to make a decision in my book. Best of luck on everything and i look foward to hearing about your new adventure.

Ok guys it was still resetting so i decided to go all out and do the separate dirty grounds and dirty +12v as in this post. http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=285&start=10 I havent hooked up the grounds or the power yet but i will get that done tomorrow. It was resetting pretty bad today and this is the only thing im changing so we will see how much it helps.

Yes that could be a problem. I have a used set of ngk wires i took off when i switched to magnacors. They will still fine though. Want them? ill sell them cheap.

Hey challenger he was saying to take the injector clips off one by one to see if the car runs any differently. If it doesnt you have it narrowed down to that cylinder. so your not looking at the whole engine for the problem just that cylinder. You can do the same thing with the spark plug wires but be careful not to shock yourself.

Well i got my tps fixed. So now its on to play with the boost control. I rehooked every thing up and ill mess with the settings tomorow. ill let ya know how it goes.

Well i got it working. Turned out it was the db37 connection. i turned the cable around and it fixed it. So now its on to playing with the megasquirt boost control!!!!!!!

But. JBWelld................yuckie.....lol

You know you could of just made a cover to go over the top of the egr hole right? I took my old egr and used the bottom of it as a pattern and then i just cut out some aluminum plate and bolted it over the top with some gasket sealer. No jbweld and its reversible