calZ

Why do you need a re-think? Wouldn't you have noticed if your cardboard mockup hit the tie rod?

I'm always impressed by how nice the KF Vintage panels look. Hopefully the fit just as nicely. Have you seen the finger controls you're able to get for TIG welders? Might be worth picking one up if you prefer to TIG with how many panels you'll be replacing.

Is this some kind of advertising bot? The bumpers look nothing alike, and I don't think the Skillard product even existed when this thread was started.

Does anyone have a shop they've got experience with for rebuilding water pumps? I've acquired a sought-after diesel pump, but it's used. Right now my top 4 options in order are: 1. Flying Dutchman http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/ Seem to have a good reputation, as I've found them recommended on multiple different classic car forums. 2. http://www.az-rpm.com/wprebuilding.html Found via Google, but advertised services give me confidence. 3. http://www.waterpumpman.com/ Same as above. 4. https://egge.com/water-pump-rebuilding/ Local to me and have been around forever, but seem to focus on very old, domestic cars. Anyone have work done at one of these shops or similar work done elsewhere you'd recommend?

If you wouldn't mind sharing your research, what's unsafe about it?

So you're just filling all the rust holes with filler? What about the large ones where entire areas are missing?

The frame rails help support the entire front of that car. If your sway bar is bending your entire frame, you've got issues with more than sway bar mounting. I think the sheer number of cars with upgraded bars that have torn sheet metal around the mounting nuts shows where the weak point is.

Three sides? Really it's just the one side. The common fix is to just weld a thicker spreader plate over the area.

Push the clutch in and turn the key?

Why the desire to go vertical? Just for packaging?

Judging by his profile, I would guess that he owns Milkfab

I'm looking to buy 1973 240Z pedal assembly with the larger brake booster hole pattern. I have a 1972 assembly as well as a 280Z assembly, if someone is more interested in trading. I'm located in Los Angeles, but willing to pay for shipping if necessary.

Also because the market for $2k replacement rails is super small

Yeah. A header made for the larger square ports should be larger than any round port. It isn't really ideal for perfectly smooth flow, but it's functional and likely won't be noticeable.

You can use a square port manifold on a round port head I believe, just not the other way around. As long as the square gasket holes are larger than the round ports, it'll work.

You're selling the Z32? How much are you asking?

Now that I will agree with. You don't need all the capture area, and angling the ducting to act as a diffuser and increase pressure at the expense of velocity is good for the radiator. It doesn't match your statement that the angling would create a venturi effect and increase airflow at low speeds, though.

Explain what you mean by inward and outward bends. If I'm reading it correctly, you're saying that having a narrower opening and increasing the area of the duct towards the radiator will increase the velocity of the air going through the radiator?

I've never owned one, but R230 should be an R230. If it's the same diff, the center sections should be swappable.

http://www.ozdat.com.au/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Bending the shroud inwards would be a mistake, imo. A flat piece of aluminum is bad enough in terms of blocking flow. Moving it even closer to the core would mean your radiator area is now the size of your two fan openings.

There are products like this, but you'd have to find one that matches the Datsun thread. https://speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/speed-sensors/speedbox-cable-included-gps-vss-to-mechanical-drive-speed-converter/

Shade tree guys should still use respirators. PPE is very important in the garage

Pictures would help

It's not viewable unless you're a member of the page. Have a screenshot?