calZ

You need to be a donating member to post in the for sale section.

It's a 1971, so it's smog exempt. Possibility of back fees on the registration, but not smog issues.

Care to share this math? By itself, I don't think it would make a huge change, but eventually a lot of fractions of inches add up to a foot. Done alone I don't think it makes sense. If you're building the car with a mantra of "get everything as low as possible", then I say go for it.

Just think of it as shedding weight! Slightly smaller means lighter.

Everything looks fine for me

Spec sheet says 1.5mm air gap, but it depends on the target type. The Subaru ring is on the edge of the recommended specs, so I was worried it wouldn't read well. That doesn't seem to be a problem though.

Finally borrowed a power supply to test that the sensor and ring worked together. I didn't have an oscilloscope, so no waveform, but using a multimeter I could see the voltage alternate between supply voltage and 0 as the ring spun. That was kind of the last box to check to make sure this would work, so I'm basically considering this solved. If/when I grab some T3 uprights and do the final design, I'll update and upload the drawings for anyone to copy.

MSA says they came on the 432 and ZG models, and were options for all others. So I guess not truly "standard".

This is a passenger footrest. If your legs aren't long enough to reach the sloped firewall, this makes it a lot more comfortable to ride along. It was standard in Japan and an option in other markets.

Exactly. If you seal out the air, it'll run out of oxygen pretty quickly and any miniscule amount of corrosion will stop.

Jeff Priddy and Timz have done it. It's just a very expensive endeavor.

If you want to make sure the support structure crushes before the unibody, some pie cuts out of the tubes would ensure that.

Bearings, hub, cap, washer, nut, tone ring, and plastic version of the adapter. The aluminum adapter would add some weight over the plastic obviously, but less than a wheel spacer. The studs are also the extra long racing studs, and there is an additional stud.

3D printers are the best. You could easily make this by hand with a piece of aluminum bar and a washer rather than something machined, but when you can turn resin into solid with the click of a button it's easier as one piece. I can throw a drawing up for this too if anyone is interested. Only downside is that the T3 uprights have a brace that would interfere with the sensor mount, but I could just tie into the lower dust shield bolt on that side instead.

How did you mount the ring? Turn the hub down?

I don't think they do, but I don't have a haltech or motec in front of me. AFAIK every sensor is independent since they're all different inputs.

Meaning the uprights too? Or do you have the tone ring mounted to the 240Z hub somehow?

Eh, the part is going to be custom and pretty simple anyway. You'd just have to get yours with a 5x3.88" pattern instead of the 5x103mm

2.25mm height ~5mm width ~5mm edge-to-edge spacing

What's all part of the package?

A major driver behind this was to maintain a factory brake bias and make things match front to rear. There are plenty of big brake kits already available with Wilwoods and custom hats. That's not what I was trying to do. The Odyssey rotors in those kits are further away from the upright, so the caliper is mounted completely outboard of the stock ears rather than in-line with them. I might be able to find a different slip on rotor that works in a similar location, but then wheel clearance becomes an issue

Option 2 wouldn't even take any welding, I'm just trying to avoid something that's not easily reversible. The option 1 adapter would be doable, but it would be pretty complex and not cheap to machine. I had thought about making these available to buy or at least give out the drawing, but it's looking like it might be more of a one-off.

Bad news: Q45 caliper won't fit without either cutting and rewelding the mounting ears or making some monstrosity of a caliper adapter to mount them to the front. The sliding design makes an adapter to put them near the original spot a non-starter. Good news: 1990 Z32 NA calipers are made for the exact width of the Explorer rotors and are a fixed design, giving more room for mounting. Bad news: I picked up a Z32 caliper, and the 240z mounting ears don't allow for quite enough room for the Z32 caliper, meaning I can't get it close enough to the center of the rotor. Barring finding a rotor with slightly more diameter or going custom, I'm basically left with 3 options that I'll list in reverse order of practicality: 1. Make a ridiculous caliper adapter that ties into the two stock ears and the top side of the forward ball joint bolt, putting the calipers in a leading position. 2. Trim the tops of the ears off, drill and tap new holes further down, and make a dead simple adapter to put the caliper right where I want it. 3. Give up on my stupid, stupid dreams of a non-permanent modification consisting of OEM wear parts and go back to a proven brake option. Thoughts or ideas? Option 2 would be relatively simple, but I'd have to talk myself into hacking up good parts.

Is this something on my end or the server? Whenever I try to view someone's page, I get a "500 internal server error". Anyone else with this issue?

Rotor fits like a glove and is well within the range of other big brake kits as far as rotor offset change goes. Next step is getting the caliper adapter figured out.