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The ad says it's $1000 for prep and paint, so I think a consistent color is more of his concern rather than the fine details.

ProTunerz makes one, but it's just a simple plenum. Looks nicer than the stock intake, though.

It does not need it and you can block it off. Someone on hybridz rigged up a way so he could switch between fresh air and recirculating, but it's not necessary. You could always just crack one of the side vents open if you want fresh air.

If the mounts don't fix it, you could always just put a small dent in it with a hammer where it rubs. I know it would be painful to do, but there have been plenty of tests showing that dents (especially just one) aren't going to noticeably affect things

Are you after just the bottom flange or like a full sewing pattern for the boot?

The left and right rear quarters are available from KF Vintage, and you can get a beaver tail from ZCarDepot. You'd be missing the underlying structure and floor pieces. If you can find another shell for a good price, you might end up money ahead by time you're done, not to mention the time difference. If you're attached to this shell, you could always find another Z in a junkyard and cut the back end off like someone did to yours.

Oh no! That's horrible and not something anyone should have to go through. Everyone ok? And any idea what happened?

Right, I was wondering about this part of your post: Upon rereading, I'm realizing that you were saying you could get only the spline and wheel stud portion new. I thought you meant you could press the bearing out of the bearing mount and use it in the old housing.

Do you have handy the cars or part numbers that still use those hubs? The only parts I could ever find were OEM for $300+ each, so I pulled two used sets from the junkyard so I'd have one pair for a backup. I'd love to have brand new bearings to match all the other new components

Your metalwork always impresses me. Great work

If you want to go with one piece, you may be able to get away with just making a relief cut up in the front where the floor slopes into the firewall next to the trans tunnel. Everything else is pretty flat, and that way you'd only have a seam in a relatively inconspicuous area. Going with two pieces might be easier than one and be the same esthetically, since the "joint" would be completely under the center console and dash

Did you ever get back on this? It was a fun project. Would love to see updates if you have any

People still care, I just see it here and on Instagram. The forum is really nice as far as documentation and being searchable though. Please keep posting here

Why the decision to go with 3 pieces rather than 2 per side? Worried about getting it to conform?

Looks good to me. I think rather than a slot, I'd go with overlapping holes like in this picture. It would make replicating setups and matching the left and right mounts a lot easier than with the slots.

I don't see a picture of you meant to post one

@tube80z Here's a bot for you to ban

Presumably use it as a stand-in for the VSS signal in vehicles that don't have it.

The DPS system uses the potentiometer to control the assist. The Silvermine kit adjusts the assist based on your speed.

They're generally pretty respected in the community. I've never heard of them not delivering, so I wouldn't be too worried about it not getting there eventually. Probably worth another call or email though.

You're exactly correct on the pressures. Each individual control volume effectively cancels out

I'd put the use of manometers above the capability of your average car builder, but fair enough.

RBs and LS engines are the most common swaps, but some people use Nissan VQs as well. Apex Engineered offers a front subframe with mounts for your choice of L, JZ, LS, RB, and VQ engines. The VQ would let you put a CD00A behind it if you wanted a brand new trans. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p7/Front_Crossmember.html If you want to stay with an L-series, Datsun works (sold through Godzilla Raceworks) offers kits to put either a CD00A or TL70 (BR-Z trans) behind them. Both brand new, more modern options. https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain

The flap will add a drag component, but the hope is that the added suction on the vent outweighs it. Hard to tell without testing or simulations though. Agreed on it just being guessing, though. That's what a huge amount of the amateur racecar aero you see is. Very few people have the knowledge or resources to properly test small changes like that. Wings and airdams are easy to measure, but smaller features get hard to isolate and measure.

You work fast. Looks great.