randy 77zt

on my z many years ago i bought parts that i thought would make my car handle better.car is a 77.i bought a sway bar kit.then i stared running driver schools/open track days.the combination of my other parts made a car that would go straight down (front wheels skidding)turn 6 at infineon.i replaced the 1 1/16 front bar to a 3/4 front bar.problem solved.the 1/116 bar now lives under the rear of my van.after making my car run infineon turn 6 my car feels very balenced and easy to drive.only mod after that was to relocate the lower control arm pivot points up 3/4" and out 3/4" on the front .car is a compromise-a street/track day car.not all of the aftermarket parts will work after testing.but how many people can find a place to safely find the limit of the car

nascar puts me to sleep.i would like to see some aussie v8 supercars mixed in with the nascars at infineon or watkins glen

you might have the heater hose problem fixed-but my 77 with factory a/c has the hose nipples coming straight off of the core inside the car.this would make it easy to bring the heater hoses out in a better spot.awesome work

how much time can you stand pulling parts at pick&pull?my diesel crank and 9mm 810 rods were pulled at pick&pull total cost about $200.member 510six donated some vg30dett pistons.my machinist bored my f54 block,balenced the assembly,bored and bushed the small end of the rods for floating pins,bored the block and assembled for $500.i used a nissan piston ring set from courtesey nissan..this set up is supposed to be about 8.3-1 compression ratio.if i wanted to go back to normally aspirated from turbo it would just need a piston change to flat top vg30 pistons.i run a n42 head and it is turboed..displacement is 2960cc.sometimes you can pay people on the spot to pull the parts-just stand there and watch.when its 90+ degrees and there is no shade pulling a diesel motor to scrounge the crank is a tough job

if you can find a 81zxt dizzy you can put a magnet in the bottem of the rotor and use a industrial hall sensor with as threaded body.very easy to do

any recommendations?i have a 10 year old autometer in the clock spave in my 77.having a passenger watching my laptop and reading the vipec ecm data shows the boost gauge to be very far behind in what my engine is really doing.my idea would be a fully electronic gauge using a map sensor.the outputs on the vipec do not support a boost gauge.anybody know of anything that would work?

i used to use 280zxt efi .i used any 280zxt ecm on my 81 with no problems.seemed like a injector driver transistor would go out on hard use

last time i got lash pads i got them from from robello.try sunbelt-i think they are on the east coast

i guess i got off easy when i was working in the middle east.

i think you need to study the wiring of theses things and figure out how they work. irun the chevy truck coils with a vipec ecm.the coils have their own built in driver transistors.your ecm will direct fire the gm coils with out any other aftermarkit goodies.the less wiring the better.i built a brackit with sheet aluminum the bolt to the side of my valve cover.i use magnacore plug wires.ditching the distributor will make your timing more acurate

check both the block and the head with a straight edge.i clean out the head bolt threads in the block with a tap,brake cleaner and compressed air.use NEW head bolts.i use a felpro on l28et with no problems

most of the parts line-up sounds good.i would wire up some gm lsx coils to the haltech and find a good tuner with a dyno that likes haltech.plus install a 2mm head gaskit.after playing around with another ecm i installed a vipec with gm coils and i am having a pro tune the car after the turbo is rebuilt.tired of playing games with my car

i ran ms for years .i wanted my car to run like a new 2010 car.i gave up on ms and switched to vipec.as with anything there is always the disclaimer-results may vary.the ms seemed to take constant fiddling

if you are going to tow with it try to keep the length between the rear axle and the hitch short-this keeps the trialer from whipping the rv.try to know how much you will use the rv -it might be cheaper to rent if you dont use it enough.when rv's sit -its what kills them.the hoses and seals dry out-then the first tip on a hot day and your broke down.more places will service a class c .class a are harder to work on .if you can get a pusher diesel with a 6 speed allison go for it.i used to work on motorhomes for at a ford dealership.not a fun job under a flat rate pay situation.do a complete trans service every 20k

i have had this problem before and now its back.what i found was wear bewteen the diff case and the back of the spider gears.you can see the flange for the axle shafts move up and down a little too.i usually get this after a replace a r200 after about 2 years.i think its from having too much fun with the car.if you have the r200 on the bench with the cover off ,axle flanges in and hold 1 axle flange and rotate the other you will see the spider and side gears moving around ,problem is my current r200 is a clutch type oem 300zx unit and i am sad its pretty much junk now.going back to a 280z 3.55 open unit.

i dont know anything about the speed hut units but gps speedos have been used in offshore race boats for many years.most modern cars use some kind of electronic speedo and andthe old drive cables havent been used for years.

back when i was young we used to pick cars up and move them by hand.or in this case put it on its roof and park a large 4x4 next it.i have been looking for an old ford think electric car to put a 1000cc bike motor in.a redneck smart car

it appears that my old turbo(60-1 ,t3 stage 5 turbine ) some how has a problem building boost.i suspect a problem from 5 or 6 exhaust backfires runing my last efi system.any way i want a car that has about 350-400 rwhp with good mid range driveability.not a dyno queen.something that i look forward to driving.in my old age i realize that turbos are like camshafts-bigger is not always better.my engine app-l28et stroked and bored to 2960cc.isky turbo cam on ported n42 head .vipec v44 efi with 440cc injectors

tony-on those cummins turbos there was a sleeve running in the turbo right behind the turbine.the actuator would push or pull the sleeve closer to the turbine-changing the a/r ratio.on cold start these engines would pull the sleeve all the way to the turbine-you would hear the turbo spool up then it would release.

jake -its a new box with the correct plug for your harness.try apex speed technology in los angeles

jake -they have a rb25 plug&play vipec for your app.i would highly recommend it.i really like the vipec on my car.its autotune system worked a daily driver tune out on my car in about an hour-and i suck with software.it would let you get rid of maf sensors

currently running bpr7es-projected tip resistor common ngk plug.1 heat range colder than stock.my car is a built l28.headed for the dyno on monday.i was thinking of having some br8es(not projected tip) on hand on the dyno day.the tip would be running colder on the br8es.i really dont thinkthose fine wire plugs are the ticket-they are really engineered for 100k milage late model cars.any opinions?

time for snap-on leak down tester?arp head stud kit?i always try to get a good diagnoses before taking things apart

i have run the walbro for awhile no problem.440cc injectors run by a vipec ecm.probably wouldnt try any more than that though.the pump is plumbed directly to my tank with 11mm line on a gravity feed.line to front was repleced with 3/8 tube