NewZed

Probably a Pin 1 problem. The ECU needs to know what's going on.

"VG30E" isn't really very specific. For instance, Nissan went to sequential injection in 1990 for the 300ZX, which would be a nice upgrade over batch or semi-batch. I would think a 1990 to 1995 VG30E system might be the way to go. Somewhere in the 90's I think the systems got extra complicated, maybe 96. But pre-1990 might not be the way to go when there are tons of the early 90's VG30E cars out there. Pathfinders and Maximas, for example. cgsheen has done the swaps though so would know better.

Any or all of the three here could have a 3.9. Might be within distance for you. http://row52.com/Search/?Year=&LocationId=0&ZipCode=97225&Distance=250&MakeId=&ModelId=1572&Page=1

https://www.diyautotune.com/softwarelinks.htm

The cams have letters on the back, and the heads have numbers and letters at the bottom front of the head. No need to look for square ports.

Four year old fuel?

This is why you need to just start bolting things together. Then you'd know that the water pump doesn't use the AC idler.

Hydro-locking bends connecting rods. Have you had the engine apart yet? You might need more than pistons. How can you collect parts if you don't know what you need? Curious on how that much water got in there. Did you not have an air filter?

Automatics use a different bar. You can get a new one for $314 from Courtesy. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

I would read jmortensen's diff thread in the FAQ section. You might have some changes from stock. A welded R200 might be going backward. Or maybe Nissan converted to clip-in axles with the 280Z R180's. Edit - actually that picture I posted is from the 77 FSM. So what you have doesn't match. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

Maybe somebody buggered up the studs and replaced them with bolts. Posting a picture re the axles.

Without exceeding the speed limit, of course.... Drive at your own risk.

The trip meter shows that the cable is turning. The older speedometers use a rotating magnet, and a cup or disc shaped thing, and a spring to show speed. There's pictures out there is you search "how a speedometer works". You probably have a spider web or some sort of crud in the mechanism, its kind of sensitive. You could try to spin it free by driving really fast or use a drill motor on the cable end, or take it out out and see if you can break things loose by shaking it. Or take it apart and see if it's cleanable. There's a nice picture in this link - http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/how_it_works_speedo.htm

Firstly, you should probably start your own thread, describing what you're trying to do. Talking about getting an old engine running at the tail end of a thread about shaved intake manifolds won't draw much attention. Second, that's not a stock combination of parts. But you should be able to get it running well with the stock ECU, others have done it. But it's a low compression ratio engine. It's already at the typical turbo engine compression ratio. But you should know that already, it gets talked about all the time. Not many people, if any, run electric water pumps. With that pile of parts and planning for electric water pumps, you have a lot of work ahead. Probably best to just get some new gaskets and start bolting the parts together. Get the engine in the car and get it running. You can bolt any turbo parts on with it installed, and convert to Megasquirt too. Getting it running in "stock" form will let you know if the engine is even worth keeping, and you can learn as you go, and drive the car.

Coolant flows from the block to the head. The gasket would be designed to control and balance flow in to the head, I would think. So if all of the holes in to the head are open, you're good, the gasket can do its job. Seems like the gasket that matches the head would be the way to go. If there are holes in to the head that don't have a matching hole from the block then that's where working on the block to give the head what it needs might matter. I haven't seen where anyone's done that but maybe it happens.

The eight holes are two different four hole bolt patterns. Designed to fit two cars. Pretty sure the pattern changed somewhere on the way from 240Z to 280Z.

It always helps to describe what you do know, no matter how little. Just to show that you're a good investment. Or at least post some pictures for entertainment value. If you can't figure out the cold start injector, Megasquirt will take forever.

Howdy pallnet. I have a question about the barbed rails: do you, or can you, use 1/8" pipe thread for the 5/16" barb? If so, the rail could be drilled out later for 14mm o-ring injectors, if desired. The 1/4" pipe thread is too big on the big end and would be a problem to drill out. Asking for future reference.

The exhaust fumes in the cabin problem is written about all over the internet. Still seems like you might have two problems, or more. The exhaust on my stock L28 smells so sweet sometimes I lean down and take a sniff just to know that things are stilled tuned right. I enjoy when a breeze of exhaust blows in through the window. It was only close to horrific quite a while ago when my FPR went bad causing a super-rich condition. My engine is catalytic converter-free so the smell is unprocessed.

I don't know when Nissan changed the mounting point. Could have happened before the 280Z. I think that the interference with the fins is from the transverse link mount, or cross-brace (I can't figure out what Nissan calls it). The curved, stamped steel piece that bends around the back of the diff cover.

That is the normal way for a 280Z. Those look like factory bars and mounts. The rubber even looks in decent shape.

Your local Nissan dealer might be ab;e to get them or Courtesy (the link). Spendy. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearAxleDriveShaft/tabid/1730/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/bolt-drive-p-353949.html You should run solid mustache bar mounts (no rubber on the ends) with a solid front mount. Otherwise the solid mount will take all of the load, while the mustache bar wings just float and do not much. People have had the cross member metal fatigue and break with solid front mounts.

Sounds like garden variety exhaust system leaks. Lots of flanges and gaskets to leak from on a turbo engine.

I didn't really read all of your first question, sorry. I thought you were selling or asking in general. Since you'll probably tear it down anyway, I would take some tools out there and take it apart as far as the guy will let you, to see how things look inside. All it takes is one rainy day uncovered out of those 750 to get some water in a cylinder that sits in there and rusts. At least take the oil pan plug out and see if water or oil comes out. Water will condense frm just the air and sink to the bottom. Good luck.

In this new age of information, with so many people spelling out in detail how to get the most power out of these engines, it's amazing how many new people end up with the same plan, from the same sources, that will provide no real increase in performance, maybe even a decrease, spending money on things that probably don't even need doing. Maybe the shrinking of the technology interface to phone size has counteracted the increase in knowledge available, leaving most people at the very same place they would be in the 1980's. Fascinating! rick240, browse through the FAQ's and you'll probably realize that none of what you're planning is really worth spending money on. Seriously, I'm just trying to help. You could get an old 280Z or 280ZX engine complete and spend time tuning it to run right, without even cracking it open and probably be better off and save money. The F54 block was introduced in 1980 for NA and turbo engines. Don't listen to your adamant friend anymore.