NewZed

Find the letters on the hubs first. If both sides have the same letter, then swapping the spacers wouldn't matter. In post #6 where i said give it a beating, I meant a few hard corners and miles, to warm things up and maybe reseat things. The way they designed that system the nut and washer on the axle are used as the press for the bearing race. So if things were tight initially on the races and their seats, even the high torque might not get them fully seated.

You might just go give it a good beating and retorque the nuts. Specially if the castings have the same letter.

The spacer matches the hub casting. So it could be different side-to-side if the hub castings are different. There's a letter stamped in to the casting that should match the letter on the spacer.. It's all described in detail in the Rear Axle chapter.

Did you measure the spacer and compare to the table in the FSM? And did you torque the nut to spec.? I've read that the spacers can get a bit crushed after miles of use. Nissan calls it a "distance piece" and it's matched to the hub casting.

It's an anvil that Nissan provided with every car. It bolts to the bottom of the diff mount crossmember. Actually, it's a vibration damper. Many people remove them and never notice a difference. It is a handy weight and/or anvil to have in the shop though. Nissan doesn't mention it much in the FSM. I've only found one instance.

madkaw's talking about the shape of the curve, less so the max number. Still no numbers. not even measured times, so it's all sensation. The same power curve with a bump at the top might feel less torquey than an engine with less max power. I remember getting beat by my friend on his boring old XL125, against my peaky two stroke 125. He had power everywhere, I had to wait on mine. Mine felt faster, but his was faster Plus he outweighed my by 20 lbs. Very frustrating.

At least he kept the scraps so he can undo it later. Part 2. The music isn't bad.

Swap your wheels front to back. See if there's a change. I had a broken belt in a tire that caused a vibration. Autocross is hard on tires. And rims if you hit something.

You changed at least two variables at the same time. Going back to #2 will move the power up the RPM curve. And you're tuning by ear and butt. You've lost the honk of the triples so it will sound less powerful, of course. Without numbers though, you're really just guessing, and any suggestions are mostly bench-racing. Unless they have numbers to compare. No offense intended to the prior suggesters but the comments seem to be about expectations, with no measurements. Also noticed this - "WOT AFR is very consistent ( beauty of MS).", and remembered that you want to be rich when you're around the torquey part of the power band. You didn't give the numbers though. So maybe there are still some tuning gains to be gained. How do your ignition timing advance curves compare? Another variable.

Check any flat area where a mouse (not likely rats) can sit and pee and poop. They pee wherever they go so the pathways to the flat places are important also. I found about 1/4 inch of poop on top of the glove box in a parts car bought, and a nest in the blower for the AC system. Your main problem though is that they pee everywhere. So anywhere they went is everywhere they peed.

The OBX is essentially a knock-off isn't it? Maybe you got a counterfeit knock-off.

Good luck.

Just realized that you said reliable, not stronger. The stock 1975 coil's primary circuit resistance is apparently 0.45 to .055. So, just thatching that range would be the way to go to find a replacement. But it won't be more reliable, unless your old one is failing.

You edited the original post so it's not clear that you even asked a question. But here's an answer to your edited post. #1. My coil is a GM HEI coil. It has a primary circuit resistance of about 0.5 ohms (edit - changed from 0.8. Forgot about meter leads.). My ignition system is not the factory system. #2. Your first question is actually two questions in one so can not be answered. Plus you haven't given enough detail about the rest of the system. You said that you're getting "ignition components". Plural. But you only mentioned one coil. What are the other parts you're getting? Sorry. It's just not clear what you're trying to do, or planning to do. The 1975 system is an electronic ignition system but it's low power. Swapping to a different coil might get a stronger spark but will probably cause your ignition module to fail due to the higher current. The systems are old and failure prone, after all of these years, even in stock form. If you're planning a stronger ignition system there are many different ways you can go. Swapping the coil to a Pertronix coil isn't the way to do it.

Try starting fluid and see if it will start and run for a few seconds. Measure fuel pressure before pulling injectors. Fuel pumps can run in reverse, they're DC. Confirm fuel pressure, don't assume. Looks like you might have some good info from the previous time it started but you went all weird with the Star Wars comment. How long ago, what did you change between when it actually started, and now?

If you don't have the control relays, you'll need to come up with your own system. "M" is the fuel pump.

What do you want that wire to do? Power the pump? Ground the pump? You could look in the 1981 Nissan Service Manual. The EFEC chapter probably shows it.

I've seen that in the past, but don't have it now. It seems to be malware on individual computers. I don't know about the solution provided in the link below but the description of what it is is good. Sometimes the malware fix downloads have their own malware. If you search around you might find a way to uninstall the malware yourself. I've had to do that after downloading free software. https://malwaretips.com/blogs/underlined-words-popup-ads-removal/

My mistake. Got my time spiral backward.

I thought you were talking about the year of car. 1978 was the last year of the Z. Maybe you were talking about the year of your memory. That's a long time ago.

So it was a 280ZX, not a Z? I notice that you have a ZX. That would be a big clue.

How about some details of the car. 240Z, 260, 280? Engine? You provided "chopped top" but there must be more. Color? How and when did you get the information that you have? From Hybridz? Sorry, it's probably clear in your mind but you haven't really given many clues. Good luck.

If you search the forums for "Finland" a few names come up. It doesn't work in the Members section, for some reason, but it does for Forums I'm going to guess it's this guy though - http://forums.hybridz.org/user/32042-boben/ You have to choose the area you want to search, in the drop-down by the Search box. Doesn't look like I can link my search term., it's probably in a Cookie. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Here's a picture -

It depends on your engine management system. But you can run them on the Datsun EFI system without doing much, if anything. Some people don't even bypass the resistors. The Datsun 280Z system is primitive so any opening and closing time losses are tiny compared to the overall level of fine-tuning you can do.

Your stock 1975 has electronic ignition already and the specs are probably better than the Pertronix. Pertronix is old technology, it's not "high energy". You'd be going backwards. If you want a stronger spark you should change to a 1978 module or convert to a GM HEI module, or MSD or Crane. Besides that, I don't think that Pertronix makes a part for a 1975 280Z distributor.