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Showing results for tags '240Z'.
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This is one of the cleanest Z's I've ever seen. Does anyone know where I can find this airdam? The article i read on this car says its a 280z with a carbon fiber BRE front airdam but I've looked on the net and can't find anything that looks like it. If i do find it will it fit on a 240z? Thanks in advance!
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I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
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Just bough this BEAUTIFUL 1971 240Z from Texas without even seeing the car in person. I'm amazed How clean this car is. Frame is straight and rust is extremely minimal. All the regular rust areas are clean! I have a rebuilt LT1 and 4l60e with zero miles, planning on selling the 4l60e and getting a T56. Anyway Here is the car, I started stripping it for paint. Will pull drive train tomorrow after I get my cherry picker back from my friend. He borrowed it 2 years ago
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Hi Guys, I'm going to be in LA from 4th December 2014 to the 8th December 2014. I am willing to travel upto 400 miles from LA. I am interested in modified z's and un modified z's. I preffer the zg arches with wide wheels look but anything considered. I am looking for rust free examples complete or incomplete. I would preffer turbo converted cars but a well sorted N/A is also an option. The cars (I'm looking at buying two maybe three) will be shipped back to the UK. The cars will be collected by the shipping company in my presence, Cash or wire transfer will be the method of payment My private email is jmcl.testing@gmail.com I will require a fair bit of information about each car and will need to see deatiled photos. Cheers guys and I hope to here from you soon. Adam
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I thought I share my Datsun project here. I bought it about year ago from US. I looked car that was not too rusted, was running and cost under 5K. Finally found this -71 240Z from Hollywood. It was little over my budget, but seller was kind enough to drive it so shipping company, so I saved few hundred in there. And there was also lots of new parts included. Car had L28, 5 speed, R200 and Z31 ECU. After waiting two (long) months car finally arrived to Finland and it turned out to be in much better condition that I could never expect. There was almost no rust and car really was in driving condition. I drove few days with it and then teared it apart. And I also sanded it to bare metal. Only welding that I did was fill those side light holes because they are not needed in my country. After that it was time to paint. Painting was done in my own garage where I did small "paint booth". After painting it needed lots and lots of wet sanding and polishing... Previous owner had fitter Eibach springs and Tocico shocks but I wanted it to be lower so coilovers were needed. I bought BC Racing coilovers that were meant for S13 and fitted them to S30. I cutted original shock tubes and welded threaded collars in place of them. S13 camper adjust strut tops were too big for S30 strut towers, so I made smaller strut tops. There is not much camper adjust, but at least some. Previous owner had fit disk brakes to rear and 13/16" MC. I decided to upgrade front brakes with 300mm vented rotors and Outlaw calipers. I also did 5-lug swap using Z31 parts in front and rear hub was redrilled. I have always liked old BBS wheels and bought BBS RM. Wheel were originally 7.5" x 15" and rear wheels were widened 1.25". Interior was in quite bad shape. Seat cover was broked and dash was cracked. I repaired dash with fiber glass and painted it black. Seat was repaired with new covers. New gauges came from Speedhut. I have now driven about 5000km with my Datsun in this summer. Have been in few track days and few car meets. And it has worked perfectly. As for new engine I wanted some modern 6 cyl engine, and though RB25. However those are quite expensive and rare in our country, so I used something totally different...BMW M50B25 with 5 speed ZF310 gearbox. I used 2.8 crankshaft and pistons so engine is now 2.8 instead original 2.5. Also block height is shaved 2mm to get squish height to about 1mm. That shaving also get me 12:1 compression so I am going to use E85. As engine management I am using Megasquirt MS3. And I also have M3 throttle bodies and headers and some hotter cams. Engine is now totally rebuild with new piston rings, bearings, cam chain, etc. During this winter I need to get this engine fitted to Datsun engine compartment and get everything working.
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- bc-racing coilovers
- m50b25
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Recently aquired a 1972 240z with 108,112 miles. Having an new extra vg short block laying around and a set of cima heads and manifolds, I decided to swap the vg into a s30. Not sure on what turbo I will run, but im looking into compturbo 6262, or a borgwarner s200. Looking for around 550-600hp. Heres my list so far: Stock motor with ported cima heads and jwt springs relocate position of turbo from driver to pass. side (not enough room to keep on driver side) aeromotive fpr walbro 485 pump -6 feed and return line id1000 injectors compturbo or borgwarner turbo custom top feed fuel rail turbosmart wastegate boost controller R32 gtr front brakes calipers with custom bracket (I will be running 16" so I will try to fit the largest rotor in them. custom intake manifold with q45 throttle body had a pair of ARC z32 intercoolers laying around that I will have modified to a single. z32 brake booster, master cylinder and possibly pedal z32 clutch master and possibly pedal possibly z32 diff installed and thats where im at now. The paint on the car will be redone. I purchased a new center console, new seals from black dragon and a bre rear spoiler. The respray will be porsche's carrera white
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Did a quick search and did not find anything concrete. Have sourced Recaro Evo 8 seats. Has anyone installed these into their car? If so, any insight into fitment issues and bracket work. I know that the 240 can present a narrow space for an aftermarket seat. Any info is appreciated. Cheers, Ian
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So I can't seem to figure out this electrical problem. My turn signal switch worked for a while and then stopped working. Park lights still work when the headlights are turned on and hazard lights work, The brake lights worked for a while but recently stopped working as well (not sure if caused by turn signal problem) So I tried cleaning the connections by following this write up: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ and after they still don't work. So i borrowed a turn signal from another 72' 240z and still nothing so it has to be before the switch. Haven't had the chance to follow the wire and i'm not really looking forward to dealing with electrical since i just fixed an alternator problem which was a headache. Any input is appreciated.
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- Electrical
- Lights
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hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
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Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
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Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
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Putting together a new 240z project with 280zx turbo swap. Car needs lots of work. Putting my plan together now and know that I need the entire AC assembly, heater core, blower assembly, and vent and control set up. I was positive that I found a post last week selling all of these parts but having now searched for the past two nights without finding it I'm increasingly convinced that it was a dream.
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I am looking into purchasing a set of 16x8 Enkei Compe wheels for my 73 240z. If you have them on a S30 please post pictures of your car! The picture below is not my car but this is the only picture that I can find.
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Ok, my dad and I are about to put together my motor for my 73 240z and we have no clue how much power this motor will make. The head is rebuilt to stock its a 1973 E88 head. We have the Z Car Source master rebuild kit with .040 over flat top pistons, the pistons dont work with the head so we are having valve reliefs cut...we found this issue once we had the pistons and most internal in, check the clearance with #1 at TDC and the valves are coming in contact with the piston. Mods are; over bore(.040), header and AZC 4 barrel manifold/Holley 390. Any guess on horsepower at the crank would be greatly apreciated, I am geussing around 175hp at the crank. Thanks for any help.
- 16 replies
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- 240z
- horsepower
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Hey guys I was wondering what your recommendation would be for welding in a bung for a wideband on a stock 240z exhuast (71 series 1 if it makes a difference). I recently rebuilt and installed a set of Mikuni triples so to help with tuning I'm in need of a wideband which is something I've never used before. I've been researching on the net about placement and I can't seem to find a definitive answer I know it's recommended that the sensor be placed at least 18 inches from the head so I don't overheat my sensor but considering I'm still running the stock manifold and dual down piping do you think if I welded the bung into one of the dual down pipes that it would give me an inaccurate reading even though the down piping is collected at both sides. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
- 4 replies
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- wideband bung location
- stock exhuast
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From the album: 73 240z
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I am looking to do my first zed build and am trying to put together a soft budget before I get too deep (1972 240z). I have budgeted out most of the guts, but am having trouble finding the particulars on the body I am looking for. I love the look of the two body's below but can't seem to find the correct air dam or flares? I believe another post had the air dam as an IMSA 3 piece but do they fit with the flares I want? Also, I am new to body work and do not know how wide these flares are. My questions are... What type of air dam are these? What type and size are the fender flares? Will the air dam fit properly with the fender flares as shown in the picture? Sorry if these questions seem simple, I just don't want to spend money where it isn't needed and get the right parts the first time around. Thank you!
- 5 replies
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- 240z
- fender flare
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This is my new baby(AND GRAND BABY'S), thanks to my wife, it's my birthday present, came off the trailer just before i had to leave for work tonight. So i still haven't had time to really check it out. I drove it around the block everything so far seems nice and tight for a quick inspection. Overall very happy cant wait to get registered
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Hey guys here's my Z I picked up saturday! This is in addition to my dads project Z which is getting the full AZC susp. and other crazy stuff- this will be a little more modest as I don't have that kinda money to throw at this car hahaha 1973 240z, odo says 26,XXX so who knows how many miles. PO put what look like Konig rewinds? with new tires, 280z front brakes, and some poly bushings front and rear. lights/air/signals work which is nice. Covered in what appears to be black primer but body is very straight and frame rails, under hatch, and under body are essentially rust free which is why i jumped on this car. Car isn't running that great but I think most of that could be optimized by tuning the carbs. My other car is an '82 242 turbo so I'm not too familiar with carbs, better start learning. plans include: coils (either GC weld in or Megan weld in from mckinney motor sports) and camber plates finish off poly bushings where needed adjustable TC/LCA adjustable RLCA zg flares resized jdm wheels- longchamps, equip 01/03, ssr mk1/2/3, etc imsa 3 piece tail front airdam future motor swap Saving up funds from my summer job so progress should start in the coming week or two. Adrian
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New poster here... Just installed a new motor in the 71 240: F54/N47, comp cams 280s cam, 3x 40dcoe, headers, exedy regular clutch, flywheel from my l24, new timing kit, carter p4070, Holley 12-804 reg, mallory dist from l24. Also replaced 4 speed with 5 speed close-ratio. Using fork and collar from 240 trans because whatever collar came with 280 was too long and slave cylinder couldn't be mounted. The car makes a very odd sonar, red alert sound. It happens with the clutch pedal out and minor revs. Doesn't seem to increase with engine speed. Sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area... Strange. Also, I had to cut the tunnel/console to fit the shifter. Not needed with close-ratio?? Not so fast! I think the trans has an older bell housing on it. Serial 7y1594(1?). Oy. Gears 2 and 3 are mighty close, it must be the right tranny. New redline mt90 in the trans, too. Next problem: Carter pump mounted by tank, constant 12v. No need for regulator? Yeah right. Carbs poured gas out right away! Installed low pressure Holley 12-804 after filter in engine bay. Fuel pressure okay on initial startup, I checked it after a min and it was creeping up past 7psi. Adjust reg, no difference. Not running a return. Fuel is fed to carbs via 5/16" line. I thought these pumps had a bypass that would send gas back to the tank? I'll upload a short video of the sound ASAP.
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Hi, I'm fairly new to this forum and the world of Z's, but I'm hoping for some advice on what to attempt next. I picked up a '73 240z with a large list of modifications, including the SU carbs from a '72, and a "fresh built" l28 engine and head. I've done a small set of fixes and minor modifications to get it running, but as of yet have only had momentary success, and I have a suspicion that the electrical is to blame for the behavior. I've got a Pertronix electric points system installed, with the flamethrower coil that accomponies it, and have confirmed I'm getting a spark. I just replaced the old fuel pump and have it measured at about 3.5psi, checked for any obvious vacuum leaks, put new gaskets on the floater bowls on the carbs, and played with the timing to see if that was the issue, but no luck. I've managed to get it started and idling, but only once, and after no changes, it refuses to again for more than a few seconds. I've tried with and without the ballast resistor, and am going to try some new plugs today, but I just can't seem to pinpoint the issue. Are there any obvious fixes I'm looking over that could be suggested, or common problems I might have looked over? I desperately want to get this beautiful old car back on the road, and would hugely appreciate any and all suggestions. Let me know what information/pics I can provide to help, and thank you in advance.
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So, my question is does the front strut housing off of a 240 bolt directly into a 280z? The only reason why I ask this is because coilovers, and sectioning the struts is easier and cheaper on the 240 struts and instead of cutting and welding the strut housing onto my Z I wanted to see if I could just bolt in the whole front assembly and save myself some headache.