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Showing results for tags 'springs'.
Found 18 results
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I have found a few threads on this issue, but no real resolution. The front sits noticeably higher (over 1") after the installation... it appears the front didn't even drop a millimeter from stock. Springs: Eibach Lowering Kit Shocks: KYB Checks: 6305.001 springs are on the front. 6305.202 springs are on the rear. The label and part number are right-side up so you can read them. The springs are seated properly. The control arm bolts/nuts were tightened with the load of the car (not on jack stands). Does anyone have a clue as to why the front did not lower? Seems basic enough...
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hey guys I have a '83 280zx pretty much stock everything except for the engine stuff (turbo and intercooler). My car drives like a bowl off jello, and I wanted to buy new shocks and springs. and I'm cheap, so no super cool expensive coilover sets (beside the car doesn't run well, so I won't shell out money on a car that, after 4 years of screwing around in, still won't run well) and I don't want a car that too low for very daily driving. I found out that KYB shocks are everywhere, there is some Gabriels as well on some sites. so I guess, for basic, stock like performance, i'm covered for shocks.. but the only springs I could find is an eiback lowering kit (1 inch lower) for a lot of money ( https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20c01 ). if anyone aware of stock like (or mild drop) springs available anywhere? There are some AC delcos listed in a few place, but back order everywhere.. thanks! seb
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The springs: https://zcardepot.com/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z?variant=21384265269361 I'm planning on installing new springs and struts and I've found this option. I don't race my car and my suspension is totally stock so far, I feel my springs and struts are fine I'm just looking to lower it. I want a 1.5 or 2" drop, I like that the springs I've linked seem linear and not progressive. They don't give much of a description of who makes these springs or where they come from though. Has anyone used them? Would you recommend them? I like the amount of drop some people get with the Tokico springs but we all know they're discontinued. I don't think I'll go the eibach route because I've been reading that they don't drop the ride height much. Also if anyone's running other brands like vogtland or STAGG etc. let me know what you think about them.
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As I've mentioned briefly here before, I'm nearing completion of my electric conversion on a 1977 280Z. The conversion has resulted in a significant change to the car's weight balance, and I need advice on suspension adjustments to go along with this. In lieu of the ~500 lbs L28, there is now a 120 lbs electric motor: And where the spare tire well/gas tank once was, there is ~300 lbs of batteries and battery housing: As a result, the ride height is quite high up front: The rear looks fine to me though: This car will be a daily driver around town and on freeways. I have no plans to track/autocross/etc (and would need to do a major overhaul of my battery pack to set it up for that). So I'm looking for a way to lower the front while keeping the ride comfortable for daily driving. It's been suggested that I just cut the springs up front, but others have warned that's a horrible idea. I'd rather not spend big money on a fancy setup with a ton of adjustment meant for racing that I'll never use, so is there something in between that might work better for me? -
Full set of BC Coilover springs for sale. One pair is 62.220.006, never installed. One pair is 62.180.005, lightly used. $50 per pair, shipped anywhere in the U.S; or $90 for all four springs shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.
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Hey guys, I just started installing my Eibach ProKit springs on my 240z. I brainlessly painted over the part numbers on the springs so I had to do a lot of research to figure out which one was which. The longer non-progressive spring is 6305.001 and goes in the front, I believe, and the progressive shorter spring is 6305.202 and goes in the rear. This is correct yes? I installed the longer non-progressive spring (what I believe to be 6305.001) on one of the front struts last night and the spring looks to be slightly bent out sideways -- i.e. it's not straight up and down. You can also see that it's not straight because the piston rod is not visibly centered within the spring. I'm not sure if it's just not seated properly or what. I did notice the spring coil ends are in the little groves in the strut cap and strut base. See the pictures below and see what you think.
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Hi, I'm looking for a set of springs for my 1981 280zx Turbo. I would really prefer Tokico but would consider other brands. PM or email guku416 at yahoo. Thanks
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I need new springs, my old (25+ year Tokicos are sagging in the rear. About all I can find to replace them are the Eibach progressive rates or the Vogtlands. Somebody please give me some pros and cons. The car is mostly street driven, LS2 powered, and a little heavier on the rear axle than the front. Thanks, Mike
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Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
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Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring fourth photo: on the car
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I just installed a set of Vogtland springs, and they lowered the car an even 2". Its a little lower than i would have liked, but its alright. But i am concerned about the amount of travel it took away from the suspension. It looks like there is only about an inch left of travel before bottoming out. Is this normal?
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Hi, if anyone has a set of these (preferably uncut) let me know, found out Dave doesn't make these anymore!
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I just installed vogtland springs and stagg struts on my 71 240z the front shocks are all the way up against the bump stop I thought the VA part number was supposed to go to the front and HA was supposed to go in the back the back I can't tell if they're up against the bump stop because of the boot. -
I recently received a set of the new coilovers BC Racing has developed with JPN Garage. I know a few of you are anxiously awaiting yours so here are a few pictures of mine. Please note: I received mine as part of a sponsorship with the website I run which is why I have mine a bit earlier. Enjoy!
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I am looking to buy lowering springs for my 280Z that is riding high since it went on a diet and shed some weight. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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So I have a really loud and awful sounding squeaking noise coming from my rear suspension. it is happening only when I either go over a large bump, or I accelerate. It is BY FAR worse when accelerating, its almost constant squeaking/metal on metal? screeching sound. I'm having a lot of trouble trying to narrow down what could be causing it because I recently replaced all my bushings with urethane bushings, and replaced the struts. I have tried spraying my bushings with silicone spray, but that doesn't really help. I have tried having a passenger crawl back there and see if they can narrow down the problem area while I was driving but met with no success that way. I've tried taking out all the rear interior and driving with the hatch open but that did nothing. I've tried pulling the driver's side LCA (I'm convinced its on the driver's side... at least mostly) and re-greasing and sanding down the bushings to make them fit better, but that did nothing either. What could be causing a squeak under acceleration? Which bushings should I look at? Is it possible its the springs scraping the spring perch? Is there supposed to be some kind of pad between the two? Its SO BAD when accelerating, even like 1/8th gas it will do it. But cruising and braking it is silent. Any insight would be much appreciated. I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but I figure that since I have a 280z, this issue would be specific to that car, Mods please move if this is in the wrong section. -
Hello from the UK! I've started to restore my rusty Datsun 206Z and having done a lot of research about suspension and coilovers I am in a bit of a pickle. Now from my understanding there are several ways of getting the Z lower. I've read through numerous threads about strut sectioning and also info on the 'screw on' McKinney (there are others) set up. However it doesn't seem to clarify how low you can go and level of adjustment with each set up. I would like to know the height adjustment and capabilities of each set up please. I plan to fit a 1JZ circa 400bhp in future but in the meantime will be running triple webers. Does this effect what front springs i should go for? What set up do you suggest? Do I get the McKinney Sleeves and camber plates then get some other coilovers to screw in? Not a fan of Meguns. We have these in UK that a lot of the drift boys use - http://www.hsdcoilovers.com/ I want my car to go this low but not this low all the time - http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/05/the-peoples-choice-sunnys-240z/ I dont know how much higher this can be adjusted from how it sits now. Using the car the odd weekend for fast road, drift and maybe the odd track day. Maybe even Nurburg. Thanks in advance -
Hi there, I am looking for a set of lowering springs for a 76 datsun 280z. Something that gives me a 1-1.5" drop. Eibach, Tokico etc. If anyone has some for sale or knows of where I can purchase (in stock)...please let me know. Thanks! Rich
