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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. madkaw
    What motor Tim?
  2. madkaw
    Change the lifters to solid and put whatever you want in there as far as cam
  3. madkaw
    Well I hope to get to the dyno once more with my Mikunis before the weather gets too bad. I have a thinner HG I'd like to bump CR with before I go. After that I'm going FI on the little 2.4 .
  4. madkaw
    Fun vids. As long as your having fun is what matters right? Sounds like you have a lot of unknowns , but the motor sounds good for sure. Lots of research for me shows that these heads really need a lot of porting for bigger power. When Rebello heads show 40mm ports , I can't hardly believe it. Higher compression , bigger cam, bigger ports might be one direction . I told myself I wouldn't get caught up in the HP race , but I do want more myself:) probably won't be happy until 3.2 stroker . Going FI myself incase I get the turbo bug
  5. madkaw
    Great idea Jon . I need to redo this set up so I will keep this in mind!!
  6. madkaw
    https://youtu.be/0k7XEz_-KSI
  7. madkaw
    Dave at Rebello is interested in my diesel block so someone is doing something with them.
  8. madkaw
    Tool shed?
  9. madkaw
    I will have to go back and search, but I thought part of the attraction on the BC was there was a non- pillow ball option that had top hats that were insulated by rubber. For me- no more NVH is desired. I'd like to have better ride options as far as adjustable shocks. "Coil over " with smaller springs would be nice for bigger wheel options , but not ready to sacrifice any more on ride quality .
  10. madkaw
    Thank you for taking the time to lay out some basics - not a coil over guy. Questions though. Where is the rubber insulation at in the top hats? I looked at pics trying to make out the construction , but fail to see this. So camber plates are not needed with these and all camber adjustments are done by dropping struts? Or can you use both ? My confusion on install is that I thought there was not cutting involved or welding, but now I understand that the original strut housing is removed and BC is installed, welded , on. So really it's the same amount of work as section ing struts ?
  11. madkaw
    I guess I need a 101 class on how these adjust, install , etc... Keep looking but can't find much info
  12. madkaw
    Nice numbers . I guess there's something true about that squish stuff I plan on at least 11:1 on my build but will be using the mn47 . I can get 93 out here so sounds like I'm good . Making that power with 34 all in also confirms my research . Congrats
  13. madkaw
    I probably have one - I'll check when I get home
  14. madkaw
    Watching
  15. madkaw
    Sounds like your tentative plan would work for your goals . Just don't go wussy on the cam.
  16. madkaw
    Advantage of these compared to OER FI ?
  17. madkaw
    I like that fact that the HP on the 40's ! It's been said you can't make power with just 40's, but this seems very impressive .
  18. madkaw
    Put me down. I'm tired of being paranoid that my car is going to roll away
  19. madkaw
    I guess that's my question- so is a bracket and a cable that I am on the list for?
  20. madkaw
    Love my AZC system too!
  21. madkaw

    delete

    madkaw posted a topic in Drivetrain

    Delete
  22. madkaw
    Why do you say small valves ? Doesn't the 42 have the larger valves? I anxious to see you diesel intake . I have one on the shelf that I would also like to use. They have larger diameter runners besides being long- 35mm
  23. madkaw
    "Cheap one" is to drill your flywheel and use it with a gear tooth sensor. 30$ and your time . Of course this does mean pulling your trans , but the benefit is a very stable signal
  24. madkaw
    Don't forget guys- this bar is way thicker so spacing between the mounting holes gets slim- thus a much thinner bushing. The bushing sticks out past the metal bracket slightly at the frame and is squished when tightening down the bar . I don't see how it could be any thicker unless the actual mount holes were wider
  25. madkaw
    It's funny you say that Gira, because I've thought about that for the rear . Rear sway bar hits the boots on my WCR cv's under full droop. If I reduce end link lengths to clear boots then the sway bar hits control arm - ugh. Someone else suggested drool limiters but I know little about how to do it and the affect on my handling.
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