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Miles

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Everything posted by Miles

  1. Miles
    Sounds more like an open circuit. Back to basics: Get a schematic and trace/check the power circuit to/from the switch Check the power wire on the ignition switch. Power yes/no? Etc.
  2. Miles
    Type "r200 swap" in the search window above. Ditto Google "240Z r200 swap". It is documented all over the internet, here and other Z websites.
  3. Miles
    Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Good to have if you bought a v8 Z car. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/
  4. Miles
    Perhaps someone can post a side by side picture of 240Z and 280Z flanges for comparison.
  5. Miles
    I have done two 240Zs with R200 swaps and there have been no signs of binding or I don't notice. Might only surface in autocross etc.
  6. Miles
    Here are some suspension differences between the 240Z and 280Z: The 240Z is about 227kg. lighter than the 280Z and utilizes shorter, lighter springs. The 240Z's front springs are 14.7 inches long for the driver's side and 15.2 inches for the passenger side. The 240Z's rear springs are both 14.5 inches long. The heavier 280Z's front coil springs are both 15.98 inches in length. 280Z rear springs are 15.43 inches long. 280Z strut insulators are longer. The control arms are the same. So did Nissan solve the half shaft binding issue with modifications to the suspension? More droop in the control arms? Do the modifications allow more travel to control arms before binding of the half shaft? Are the 280Z companion flanges designed to allow more half shaft travel before bottoming out?
  7. Miles
    Pac_Man Please post how you were able to solve the soft pedal issue.
  8. Miles
    The 240Z uses 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare brake fittings. The Wilwood ad says: "as the inlet and outlet ports are 10MM X 1 bubble flare seats and do not require tube nut adapters to directly install tubing with bubble flare 10MM x 1 nuts." Bubble flair brake fittings on a 240Z will leak. The Wilwood PV i used has 1/2" NPT ports. So I used 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flair to 1/2" NPT adaptors. They can be purchased at Fly'n Miata or from other suppliers.
  9. Miles
    The S30 is a 40 year old small car. But fun if you drive it thoughtfully. Probably a side collision would be the worst. Avoid driving in the rain as the back end breaks loose easily. I never drive in the rain. Why a roll bar? For a street car or a daily driver the roll bar becomes something to bang your head on in a collision unless you plan on wearing a helmet driving to the store.
  10. Miles
    Has anyone looked at front - rear brake balance using this caliper with e.g., stock front brakes, Toyota vented/solid front brakes, ArizonaZ front brakes etc.? It would be interesting to look at doing some brake bias calculations using different brake combinations. Is this a better rear disk swap then a 240SX which hooks up directly to the stock parking brake cable?
  11. Miles
    Here you go. Note: Access to oil filter and starter. Flange at rear of transmission to allow removal of tail pipe for access to the drive shaft, parking brake, differential and rear suspension etc.
  12. Miles
    How did the Nissan engineers solve the "binding problem" on stock 280Z cars? Use 280Z control arms?
  13. Miles
    Your MC is not pushing enough fluid under pressure. Take the MC off the car and bench bleed it. See post #3 in http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109115-master-cylinder-bench-bleeding/?p=1020086 When you have the MC in a vice on the bench with the clear hose hooked up per the picture in the link above (post #3): Fill the tanks slowly so you do not create bubbles open both bleed screws. Make sure all fittings and hoses are air tight. Push the piston slowly so as not to create bubbles. If you see a lot of bubbles in the tank stop for 10 or 15 minutes and let the bubbles rise to the surface. Repeat until there are no bubbles. Be prepared to plug the output ports of the MC when you are ready to transfer the MC to the car otherwise fluid will leak out. At the car hook up the hard lines before placing the MC on the booster. Tighten the fittings finger tight. Once the MC is on the booster tighten the fittings the rest of the way. Resume bleeding the rear brakes. If there is still no fluid flowing while pumping the brake pedal then the MC is bad and you will need to replace it.
  14. Miles
    In order to be 100% sure all of the air is out, the piston must be pushed full stroke. On the car this can be accomplished by: Unbolt the MC from the booster, but leave the hard lines connected. Pull the MC out and away from the booster - the hard lines have enough flex to allow this. Attach clear plastic hoses to the bleeders and run into the tanks. Hold the hoses securely with clothes pins etc so they don't pop out and suck air. Open the bleeders and place a screw driver etc. up against the piston being careful not to scratch the bore. Push the piston slowly with the screw driver all the way until the piston bottoms out. Repeat until zero bubbles appear in the plastic hose. Note: sometimes air will enter around the hose where it is attached to the bleeder or around the threads of the bleeder giving the impression that there is still air in the MC and will also allow air to get sucked back into the MC. So make sure the hoses fit tight and just crack the bleeder enough to allow fluid flow. Speed bleeders insure that no air is leaking past the threads. I have been able to bleed a MC on the car with out unbolting it from the booster, but sometimes the only way to get all of the air out of the MC is to push the piston all the way until it stops as in bench bleeding.
  15. Miles
    Pac_Man In a situation like yours I prefer to eliminate the MC as a problem first then I know for certain that the MC builds pressure and can move fluid equally to each wheel. There two issues you may have to deal with: 1. air in the MC and 2. the MC leaking internally (pedal slowly sinks to the floor). So: Check for air Check that the MC holds pressure Go to the wheel cylinder: is it leaking? If so repair it. Bleed the system.
  16. Miles
    No, you don't need the car on an incline. There is most likely air in the rear section of the master cylinder. You will not be able to bleed the system with air in the MC. If you haven't done so, research how to bench bleed a master cylinder. If you do it off the car be sure all of the hoses and fittings you attach to the MC are air tight. After researching, make a logical check list of what you need to do starting with the MC.
  17. Miles
    The old finger trick.
  18. Miles
    Brake fluid eats paint down to the metal.
  19. Miles
    To check for fluid in the booster, you don't have to completely remove the master cylinder. There is enough flex in the hard lines connected at the bottom of the master cylinder that you can unbolt the master cylinder, pull it forward and then push it aside to look inside the booster for fluid. If there is no fluid then the leak is somewhere else in the brake system. If you remove the master cylinder completely you will have to bench bleed it before reinstalling it. Check the wheel cylinders and calipers for leaks first. Probably best after finding the leaks to take the car to a brake shop for any repairs.
  20. Miles
    If you allowed all of the fluid to drain out of the rear section then you will have air in the master cylinder which will require bench bleeding. Sometimes you can get the air out by bleeding the MC on the car by running a plastic hose from the bleed screw back into the tank. Even though the plastic tube is immersed in fluid in the tank air can still enter around the threads of the bleed screws. Have a helper open and close the bleed screw while you push the brake pedal. Just like bleeding the wheel cylinders. You can also install speed bleeders on the MC so you don't need a helper. If bleeding the MC in the car still does not result in a firm pedal, then you will have to remove the MC and bench bleed it. The procedure is documented in the brake forum. Don't allow the fluid to run out of the MC when reinstalling it in the car. Plug the output ports. To make mounting the MC easier, start the hard line fittings back into the MC before bolting it to the booster. In the future do not allow the tanks to empty out while working on the brake system. Fill the tanks and use a large rubber stopper or other means to plug the tank to create a vacuum so the fluid can not flow out. Secure the plug/stopper so it can not back out and leak air. You can also plug the ends of the brake lines to stop the flow of fluid. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-280022erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CN2v8PrfksQCFYVqfgodGFYAcw
  21. Miles
    Did you allow all of the fluid to drain out of the master cylinder rear circuit while you had the wheel cylinder off?
  22. Miles
    I have had problems with "rebuilt" calipers new right out of the box. Especially with the Cardone and the cheap Napa house brand calipers. Problems with new out of the box calipers include: Piston would not retract into the bore. Piston seals leaked. Caliper filled with rust and debris that showed up while bleeding. Removing the bleed screw I was able to shake out rust flakes/powder. It happens. If after you have ruled out all other causes take the calipers back and buy Nugeon brand rebuilt calipers at Napa. Other stores may carry Nugeon as well. Unlike the Cardone and other cheap brands, Nugeon calipers are rebuilt in the USA (Stockton, Ca).
  23. Miles
    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97317-extended-wheel-studs/
  24. Miles
    So you didn't unplug and lights when cleaning the sockets?
  25. Miles
    My marker lights just had two pig tails with bullet connectors. One of them got flipped. As NewZed stated above, unplug all of the lights and reconnect until the fuse blows. My thought is you have a hot wire that got connected wrong when you reinstalled the lights.
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