Miles

Your Z is almost 40 years old. Suggest that you consider a complete brake system rebuild before putting the Z back on the road. Otherwise you may experience a series of component failures. Best to clear all of that up so you will have confidence that the car is safe to drive. BTW well maintained stock brakes with good pads work just fine for most types of driving. Check out the brake threads.

RebekahsZ is correct. I had progressive springs on my first 240Z and the "progressive" part of the spring was collapsed just sitting. I replaced them with Arizona Z springs (NLA last I checked). If they are still available the Arizona Z "heavey duty" springs are 180 lbs/in. front and 225 lbs./in. rear as I recall. I have used them on two 240Z v8 daily drivers. Check with Dave at Arizona Z for spring availability. Do some research here on progressive springs for more background information. You may end up having to specify the length and spring rates you want and go shopping. Also, check out Classic Z Car club for spring choices.

Look here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEIC06

Look here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html

Try: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

I tried this once. Be prepared for the eye-roll followed by "BORING"!

Henery Ford said: thinking is hard work which is why most people don't do it. You are assuming that most people are rational problem solvers and will take time to think things out. After thirty-five years in engineering management I can tell you most people do not want to think too hard. This is why engineers are paid the big bucks i.e., to reason things out for those who can't or won't. Experienced mechanics already know about logical problem solving. There is much wisdom here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

Do you have a tape measure? Just measure the and cut the wood.

7/8 MC is what works with the T5 Camaro slave.

No, you don't need a proportioning valve. Your brakes are pulling because a caliper is grabbing on one side and not grabbing on the other side. Think about it and then fix/replace the problem caliper.

This has been covered hundreds of times here. Do a few hours of searching and reading on this topic. Keep it simple. Check that one of the connectors for the combi switch has not come lose. Happened to me after the car sat over the winter - no lights at all. One plug had come loose under the steering column. It still could be the combi switch. Check each wire on the switch with a volt meter and schematic. Also, keep two or three spare repaired combi switches on hand so you just plug and play when trouble shooting. Keep searching. End

Check the headlight/TS switch. Right of passage for Z owners. With my two Z cars failing lights are caused by the headlight/TS switch 98% of the time. The headlight switch contacts may need to be cleaned/adjusted. Very easy to do. Do a search on headlight?TS switch repair. There are several threads explaining how to repair the headlight switch in the forums. Also, do a Google search as there are many Z clubs that have written up repair procedures. There is also a member here and at Classic Z Car named Dave who repairs headlight and turn signal switches. You should keep extra switches on hand so you can just swap them when your lights start failing. Keep them repaired so you can just plug and play. My 240Z sat over the winter and the first time I checked the lights they were all out. One of the harness plugs under the steering column had come loose.

CFM in = CFM out Do the math. One unique approach is to use under hood fans - see picture.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum.php

Search brake forum.

That is a stock OEM mustache bar bushing replacement. I used them on a stock 240Z years ago. Also, look here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/37044-stock-mustache-bar-bushing-flare.html It looks like you could cut off the extra length with a hacksaw.

The one vs two row question has been debated to death here. Do more searching as there are several long threads on this issue. I have used the Camaro radiator recommended by JTR in two 240Z builds. They have been fine in the California central valley as daily drivers. Just be sure to use a high flow fan. It really depends on how you will use the car. Again there have been long debates here so do more searching. A high flow fan properly installed is required. Do not use a fan that mounts to the radiator core unless you want leaks. For a fan I am using the Flex-A-Lite 180 with the JTR radiator. It is a good fit for the Camaro radiator. See radiator at: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-180 If my JTR radiator takes a leak I will replace it with an Arizona Z radiator since it is a bolt in. http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html If you go with the Camaro radiator use the JTR mounting bracket if still available. It is a good fit and isolates the radiator from the body to reduce vibration that can cause aluminum radiators to crack. Attached is a picture of my JTR radiator and fan set up. BTW, there is a discussion about numbers of cores in the Engine Components forum.

I am on my fourth rear 240SX caliper and the piston is already sticking after five months of use. I did some research on the Nissan and 240SX club sites and those guys do report a lot of problems with 240SX rear caliper pistons sticking/leaking. At this point I am considering replacing the 240SX calipers with something else. It is too bad because the 240SX rear calipers do work ok with stock front calipers.

It does happen. I had a run of three bad 240SX rear calipers. Two from Napa leaked out of the box. One Cardone remanufactured unit had a frozen piston.

Before you waste a lot of time and money, you need to methodically go through the primary and secondary ignition system components. Do you have a Chevy Haynes manual that covers the SBC engine? You will need one if you want to properly diagnose problems and maintain the engine. Any Chevy manual for the year of the engine you have will work. In addition to the cap, have you checked for voltage at the coil? If you have a spare coil you can swap it in to see if it improves anything. Yes the HEI is an improvement, but make sure that you just don't have a points, loose wire or power problem after checking the coil and replacing the cap. Note that the HEI may require more space so check your firewall clearence and your stock Tach will not work with the HEI distributor. Google is a good way to obtain information on SBC engines. There many Chevy websites that you should research and bookmark for future maintenance/performance issues.

If you are going to own a stock Z then you need to also own: - Just SUs video from Ztherapy: http://www.ztherapy.com/ - Factory Service Manual (FSM) - free downloads available. Search HybridZ - Haynes Z car manual You should also join Classic Z Car as they are more focused on stock Z repairs and modifications. You should find the information you need from above sources.

Go here: 6th post from top: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/

The answer is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/

The larger MC will actually require more pedal force than a smaller MC. The reason for using a larger diameter MC is when larger volume calipers are used such as the Toyota 4x4 vented calipers. If you are keeping the stock front calipers and going to 280ZX calipers on the rear then the stock 7/8 dia. MC should work. Only go to a 15/16 in. or 1 in.MC if the pedal throw is too long. The smaller 7/8 in. MC provides more hydraulic "leverage" then the larger MC such that it will take less pedal force to stop. Better advice: keep the stock brakes. The 280ZX rear disk install is not a performnce upgrade. Do more research in the brake and the FAQ sections before you waste a lot of time and money. Just rebuild and maintain the stock brakes and use good pads such as Hawk Blues etc. You may want to bone up on basic brake hydraulics before modifying your brake system as the changes tend to have a domino effect that can make brake performance worse. And no, a proportioning valve will not solve anything with this particular modification.

My first set of 240SX rear calipers leaked around the seals after only two years. I replaced them, but I have had a run of bad luck with remanufactured 240SX rear calipers. I had to replace two Napa remanufactured calipers that leaked right out of the box. I have also had a new remanufactured Cardone 240SX rear caliper piston freeze the first time I pumped the brakes. Now when I buy 240SX calipers I check the piston retraction at the counter before accepting them. Just spin the piston in and out with the retraction tool to make sure there is no binding. I did some research on some of the 240SX and Nissan club sites and found that 240SX rear calipers have a history of the piston not retracting even when new.