jhm

Looks like a ST rear bar for 240, with some funky homemade mounting brackets. Even though it was originally designed for use on the 240, it's a very popular upgrade on the 260s and 280s, as it does not bind with the rear LCAs on lowered cars like the stock sway bar is prone to doing.

I have this one, if you're interested. (It has the "Datsun" insignia vs the shift pattern insignia.) Wood, metal insignia, and threads in good condition. $40 shipped anywhere in the U.S. PM me if interested. Thank you.

Ditto what clocker said....I had those model Prelude seats in my late '74 260 (with the catalytic hump in the trans tunnel) for a couple years and really liked them. Lightweight, supportive and comfortable.

Obviously you already understand that there's numerous variables at play here.....but the short answer is yes, you should be fine with the setup and usage you describe. I'm assuming your ZX has an R200?

If you don't get many responses, try "Ratsun.net" and "the510realm". Both are pretty good 510 forums.

If you decide to go with Hoosiers, I'd try buying used before springing for new tires. You'll save yourself a bundle, and you can try your fitment without spending a bunch of money on something that may not work in the long term for your application. I've bought from this guy many times, and have never been disappointed: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

The latest electric designs are pretty sophisticated and are getting good reviews. I think there are several threads in the Steering sub-forum on power steering conversions. Here's one OTS-type conversion, but I've seen others: http://zpowersteering.com/

Either there's a typo in the ad, or the seller has some high hopes. I would go look at it if it were closer to me. http://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/cto/5322955108.html

Sounds as though there's a short in your hot wire going from the switch (at the pedal) to the lights. You could try to track it down (which may take a while), or you could run a whole new wire. Not a very elegant solution, but certainly a quick one, if that's where the short is occurring. You should be able to test the leads at the switch with a multimeter. Check if you're getting 12+ volts at the fuse panel side; and check if there's continuity between either lead and a ground. That may help narrow things down a bit. Good luck with it.

Mike, you should be careful with that winch.....that cable could snap and cut you in half. I've seen it happen. That's really dangerous. Maybe you could lay a rug or something over the cable? It's under 2000 lbs of tension and could whip back cutting everything in its path in half. It's really dangerous. Sorry.....couldn't resist.

It just "happened".

Ha! I was a little confused by your comment as well, John....thx for clearing that up!

Beautiful workmanship....thx for sharing!

Not mine, but seems like a pretty good deal for a mostly original 240 that appears to be in excellent condition. http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/5241983001.html

This thread seems to have taken off on a tangent from the original post "Fender flare position". Might want to start a new thread with new title?

Nice find! Stories like this always make me jealous!

I recently swapped out my TH350 for a built 200-4R in my late '74 260. The transmission crossmember was the only major change required, as the mounting points on the 200-4R are a few inches further aft than on the TH350. I fabricated a new trans mount, but you can purchase pre-made mounts from a variety of sources. A 700-R4 might be a pretty tight fit in your '71, especially if you're running a JTR-style mounting position for the engine. Typically requires widening the trans tunnel...some do it with a BF hammer; others actually fabricate a new tunnel.

Yeah...good question. Perhaps the dimensions of the four holes changed a bit over the years? It sounds like the earlier runs required a press fit, and the later versions did not. I don't know if Todd was using the same machinist(s) for these as John originally was (John Williams, I believe). Enjoy your LSD -- it's a beautiful thing!

Nope....mine just dropped in as well. The D shape keeps them from spinning when tightening the nut. Used them like this the whole last season without any loosening or issues. This is the only first-hand experience I've had with the WCR side axles, but they're working fine without the press fit that the OEM side axles had. I'm sure others will chime in.

+2. The pre-made pans also have more structural rigidity, due to the additional bends and creases. Obviously, you can do all that yourself as well, with the right equipment and time, if you so desire. I have seen cases where homemade flat pans deform over time.

Used to have one, but it hung pretty low and became more of a hassle for normal street use than it was worth. There are a few vendors that produce these, with varying fidelity, quality, and fitment. I don't know who originally produced mine, but it was kind of a pain installing....very poor fit, and required a lot of cutting, bending and swearing. Looked good when it was done, but I ended up replacing it with a custom lip that provided better road clearance. Sorry -- this is the only picture I could find of it installed. P.S. Two different shapes for the early S30s vs later years, which had a more rounded lower front valance. Make sure you get one that's the right basic shape. Lower valances can also be swapped, if desired.

Have you seen these? They're one of the few options available that meet your budget goal of $300, and they seem to have reasonable performance. There are a few vendors on eBay that carry them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/?hl=%2Banother+%2Boption+%2Bstagg

Ditto what Bruce said. If you're serious about buying track tires, I would spend some time perusing the (many) racing forums online....SCCA Forums and NASA Forums are two good ones to start with. You can always find reviews and discussions on the latest tire technology.

Are you planning on running that welded R200 on the street? That would be pretty unpleasant IMO. I echo Rebekahsz's comments on the Goodrich T/A COMPLETELY....except for the 'cheap' part. Normal retail on those POS is $150 each....gimme' a break!! If you're willing to go to a 195 width, there are several decent tires available for much less. Unfortunately, the tire companies are offering less and less options these in the 14" and 15" sizes. Seems hard(er) to find good selections in 16" even. Believe it or not, you can find a better selection in 13"! I have a set of really light 13x8 wheels that work great for auto-x....been thinking about trying them out at the local strip sometime. Many of us have several sets of wheels, which may be the path you end up taking in the long run. Hard to find a single combination that works well for street, strip and track use. But it sounds like you've already figured that out from your research. If you decide to buy some really high-performance rubber for competition, start by looking at used tires. Several good vendors out there that offer decent used tires for very little money....I've bought a bunch of stuff from this guy, and have always been happy with my purchases: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Welcome! Looks like you're off to a good start.....good luck with the build and be sure to keep those updates coming!! (Looks like you got a steal for $1700.)