jhm

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=1inch+rubber+grommet&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=190508408056&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4148781904786829751&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008565&hvtargid=kwd-296782376793&ref=pd_sl_3cn0xzpnz5_b

That would explain it. Thx. (And yes..."For Free" would be a great addition to the forum.)

Silly question, but JTR doesn't produce that part anymore? Still showing on their website, but maybe it hasn't been kept up to date? I have their rad mounts on my car, and can take measurements if you decide to fab your own. PM me. Happy to help.

Generous offer on your part, but probably should post this in the "Parts for Sale" section?

Off-topic; but that is one clean, shiny new-looking half-shaft, napabill!

I was working on my parking brake linkage the other day, and it looks like you should be able to put a spacer (or washers) on the long linkage...which would have the effect of "shortening" the rod, thereby tightening the system and hopefully giving you the capability to fully engage the parking brake. Good luck with it.

Sorry....meant to say that pressure recommendations can often be found on the manufacturers and vendors websites. TIreRack.com is a good source of data. The right answer will vary for every driver, based on numerous variables. Tire construction methods, compounds and materials vary significantly; and they all affect a tire's comfort, performance and wear characteristics. What I find "comfortable" may be intolerable to others. Some highways are in great shape....others are a crumbling mess full of potholes, expansion seams, etc. Experimenting with different pressures will yield the best result for you.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

What tires? Usually, the manufacturer's recommendation will give the optimum mix of comfort and performance for everyday driving...it's printed on the sidewalk.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/?

Have you checked with JTR, as Tyler suggested? Probably costs a bit more, but may have it quicker for you if you need it asap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html

Also, don't forget the importance of proper bumpstops. Recent discussion here covered this topic: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126177-ride-difference-between-cut-springs-and-coil-overs/?hl=%2Bbump+%2Bstops&do=findComment&comment=1179414

Thanks for all that info, Mark....and good tip regarding the longer adjuster bolt. The AZC arms are indeed $299 per side; but of course they include an adjustable TC rod, as well. Thx, everyone. r/John

Hey Greg- I alternate between 5 kg/mm and 6 kg/mm on my late '74 260 w/ SBC, which is used mainly for track events....probably on the low end for a track car, but most of the venues in my area are pretty smooth w/o much elevation change. I also like to drive it on the streets occasionally. I'm using Bilsteins in the front and Tokico adjustables in the rear -- they haven't blown up yet, but I'll probably switch to Koni yellows when they do. The car weighs roughly 2780 lbs, and is balanced pretty close to 50/50. IMHO, 200 - 250 lb/in should be a good starting point for you if most of your driving is on the streets. Road conditions and your personal preferences in ride comfort vs handling will be major factors in what setup works best for you. Good luck with it. r/John P.S. Forgot to mention that your Illuminas should be fine with 250 lb springs, as long as the shocks are still in good condition.

Has anybody tried these, or at least have some data on them? Seems like a new source for adjustable fronts, at a really cheap price. I hadn't seen these until recently, and figured I'd ask if anyone knew anything about them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-70-78-Control-Arm-Front-Aluminum-Adjustable-NEW-890-/322270157450?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item4b08cc5a8a:g:8oEAAOSwOdpX1bwb&vxp=mtr

This one seems popular: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WPW6BAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1472777344&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=obd+ii+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=41cD405-HGL&ref=plSrch

I had fuel starvation with just the stock mechanical pump for track use. Maybe it was my particular pump, but problem solved permanently with the electric pump.

Ditto Miles comments. I'm using a similar fuel pump in my mild SBC 350 with no problems. Not sure what HP you're making, but any decent electric pump should meet your needs. Probably want to incorporate some kind of automatic cut-off switch in case of crash or accident -- a cheap inertial switch works fine. As an FYI, I have run my car on the street with just the stock mechanical pump....it seems to work fine for general street use, but is clearly lacking for any hard driving.

Likely no problem with your bar. Some easy solutions you can consider are flat spacers between the bushings and your frame rails or try playing with the length of your end links....either one might solve your clearance problems. Good luck with it.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but wouldn't the backspace be 5.0" with 0 offset on a 15x10? Not sure if you saw this discussion, but it may have some useful info for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110251-custom-wheels-9wide-19mm-offset/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bwidth+%2Bbackspace&do=findComment&comment=1030715

Off-topic; but were you at Hyperfest last weekend, Cameron? Heard it went well, despite the crappy weather. Good luck with the repairs. r/John

Thx for sharing, Cygnus! Haven't heard much from you lately....been busy with other projects? Good choice on the Miata seats -- they are cheap, light and plentiful.

Admins- This "Steve B" does appear to be replying to many of our WTB ads, and his replies all appear to be a similar same scripted response. Perhaps someone can verify his credentials, and remove/ban him as a user if warranted? No sure what procedures, if any, we have in place for this type of situation. Thank you in advance.

Looks like you're off to a great start....good luck with it. P.S. I, too, really hate it when I see frame rails that are totally destroyed because some jackass thought they would make a great jacking point. Frustrating as hell.

Looks like a ST rear bar for 240, with some funky homemade mounting brackets. Even though it was originally designed for use on the 240, it's a very popular upgrade on the 260s and 280s, as it does not bind with the rear LCAs on lowered cars like the stock sway bar is prone to doing.