jhm

Sounds like you've made a good choice of components for a daily driver. If you don't already have the Factory Service Manual (FSM), download it from xenonS30....it will be a great reference for you during disassembly and reassembly. Taking pictures like TBL suggested is also a great idea, particularly if this is your first time. Use empty cans to hold parts, and they can be labeled to indicate which component they came from.

http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Big difference in size and shape between R180 and R200.....read all the threads pinned in the Drivetrain FAQs, starting with this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/.

Looks to be the same. I had that style half-shaft on the first R180 that came on my late '74 260Z, but I have no idea if it was the original R180 that came with the car from the factory. I switched half-shafts to the other style only because they're easier for me to remove during maintenance on the rear end...purely personal preference. Maybe it was only the turbo ZXs that came with CV axles and R200?

They're both for an S30....just different styles. The top half-shaft bolts to the differential stub axle with 4 bolts (similar to how it bolts to the hub flange at the outer); and the bottom unit uses a single "button-style" bolt to bolt onto the differential. They both should extend and compress to the same lengths as each other. I don't remember if they were year-specific, but they can be interchangeable if necessary. Datsun switched to CV axles in the rear end during production of the S130. Hope this helps -- I'm sure others will chime in with additional info regarding year-specific details. Did they both come from the same car? If so, a PO must have swapped one out for a different style at some point.

You're certainly on the right forum for V8 Z cars, but you probably need to make sure you're not biting off more than you can chew....especially if you don't have any experience working on cars. Search out local car clubs in your area; they're always a good source of expertise and members willing to lend a hand. Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car at "xenonS30" and read it end to end (you may have to check a few times; I think the website is undergoing maintenance). Good luck with it. P.S. That "hose attached to the radiator cap" is an overflow line....designed to route coolant out of the engine compartment in the event that the coolant boils over. Ideally, it is routed to an "Overflow Reservoir", but they are often just routed to dump the overflow on the ground. If yours is like this, you can fix it easily by purchasing an overflow tank from your local auto parts store.

Search on John Coffey's advice regarding sway bars and suspension stiffness. Your post didn't mention what kind of power and torque you're putting down; but generally, you'll want to move roll resistance rearward for lower power applications and move it forward for higher power applications. (Are you currently running an LS1, as indicated in your build summary?) A 1 and 1/8 bar is pretty big, particularly if you have nothing in the rear. Consider adding some kind of rear sway bar before installing a huge bar up front. You've already got good springing and damping, so don't go crazy with the sway bars until you're sure you need that much roll resistance. Lowering the car's CG also reduces roll tendency. Hope this helps.

Love the torque of the V8, and still able to get decent highway mileage. Hate the heavy manual steering at low speeds (especially with sticky track tires), but small price to pay for all the other good stuff with a V8 swap.

Those would appear to be 12" in length (1200), 2.50" inner diameter (250), and spring rates of 150 lb/in and 125 lb/in. You can double-check me on GC's website, but that should be right. Hope this helps.

Nice looking. For anyone that's interested, cheap alternatives for CAI systems can be found at Lowes, Home Depot and a variety of other hardware stores. PVC piping can be had in a variety of sizes and shapes, and they also carry a wide selection of rubber clamps and connectors. (The PVC can be painted whatever color you want if you don't like the "toilet plumbing" look.)

Mike, you have the patience of Job. Hope she goes back together smoothly and you get her running soon. Looking forward to seeing this beast in action (again)!

Are you talking about your fan control switch, or the air directional control slide control? One's electrical; the other's mechanical. Check your alternator by taking some basic voltage readings at your battery....vehicle off, vehicle running at idle, vehicle running at higher than idle. Minimum you should see 13-14.5 volts at the battery when running with good alternator and battery. Often times the alternator will be fine, but the belt will be loose, resulting in lower than normal alt output. If you don't have FSM for your vehicle, you can download it free here: http://www.xenons30.com/ Hope this helps.

Their ad reads "ready to bolt on".....seems like they sent you an unfinished piece. I would send it back (again) and ask for a complete spoiler (i.e. one that includes the mounting hardware/provisions). If they can't do that, ask for your money back and go with another vendor. Short of molding the thing onto your car with glue and 'glass, I don't know if you'll achieve an installation that you'll be happy with.

Sorry for chiming in late, but here's another option for your consideration.... Rather than lifting the rear with the taller strut mounts in the rear, lower the front by replacing the stock strut mounts with camber plates. Might have to do a little fabrication to get the stock spring hats interfacing correctly with the camber plates. You wont' be able to take advantage of additional negative camber because your stock spring hats will hit the strut tower, but they should definitely lower the front end a decent amount (1 - 1.5"). Disregard all the above if you're happy with your current setup!

Nice having those CONEX shelters for storage, eh Tony? Those things are awesome.

B&M Mega-Shifter 80690 (I think. It was a few years ago.) Pretty easy install, using some flat plate for mounting surface in the stock shifter mounting location. Had to do some minor trimming on the center console and the shifter base. I like the ratchet action and reverse lockout, and it's compatible with 3- and 4-speed autos.

Congratulations on your first Z. What month was it produced? The spec plate on the inside of the door jam will provide that info. Yours does appear to be an early 260, just based on the turn signal arrangement, like rturbo said. Many, if not all, late '74 260s came with an R180 (including mine, which was produced Sep 1974). I'm pretty sure that even early 280s often came with an R180, so I would not assume that you have an R200 just based on the production date.

Interested to see how this one turns out -- good luck with it.

Sehr gut!

B&M Mega-Shifter on my 200-4R. For non-OEM, B&M seems to be an industry standard for auto shifters....very beefy construction and easily adapted to wide variety of applications. A lot of people do away with the center console completely, but it's certainly not necessary. Sorry I don't have a better picture.

Welding schmelding.....glue will hold your seats just fine! Nice looking seats there -- lots of adjustability for comfort and support. Thx for sharing! P.S. Just curious....what do they weigh?

Might not be a good assumption that the lights were working correctly previously. Did a PO do the RB swap? If so, they could (and probably did) change a whole bunch of crap that you'll be finding over the next several years (speaking from experience, of course). Electrically, these 40 year old cars can kind of be a nightmare, especially ones that have been highly modified. Probably start with the light switch stalk itself. Pull it and check for correct functionality....it may be jacked up internally, causing full-time "On" condition. Since this is your first Z, check out free FSM downloads for all years S30 at: http://www.xenons30.com/ Good luck.

Nothing there that won't buff right out!

Saw this on CL today and had to share, for anyone out there that might be looking for a nice 260. And it can be yours for the low, low price of $4000. Enjoy the pics. http://eastnc.craigslist.org/cto/4973138661.html

Ditto what RebekahsZ and JohnC said. I use a '92 G20 conversion van I picked up for less than $3K. It's long and heavy for towing; it's got a 350 with a 700-R4 for semi-decent mileage; and it's decked out inside for weekend camping at the track. I also use my 3rd gen 4Runner for occasional day trips to the track, but would never use it for trips with a lot of elevation changes. The auxiliary trans cooler (for auto) is pretty much a must. And contrary to what you may hear from some folks, it's better to run it inline with the side- or bottom-tank trans cooler integral with most modern OEM radiators. The coolant on the cold side of the radiator is typically 30-40 degrees cooler than your engine temp, and contributes significantly to cooling the trans fluid. It also assists in getting the trans fluid up to correct operating temperature after a cold start. Always route your trans cooling lines so that the fluid is being pushed up (against gravity) whenever possible....that will ensure maximum cooling effect from your cooler(s).