SleeperZ

Genius!

Wow, congrats on the carbs, this is an incredibly cool restoration. Once complete I hope to see lots more of these great photos. Do you plan on entering any cars shows?

With the shallower slope of the rear glass, the S130 is more aerodynamic than an S30. The S130 is an attractive car.

Wow, that's really impressive pattern matching.

Wow. I can see it now, new threads here on building L28 bottom ends with titanium rods...."how do I build a 9k engine to be reliable?'"...heh

Check out the "Team Boosted" Youtube channel. Those guys are making some stupid power from that Ford 4 cylinder in an S30.

The L28 definitely has those alignment dowels.

Very nice, but wow those bumpers are hideous.

Definitely yes, I would like one.

Welcome, she's a beauty!

Sounds like an L engine, beautiful!

This is a topic that has not just one answer. Lots of factors determine what you can run, depending on your intended use, price range, and technical ability. I suggest you research what has been done, this site has more information on this than any other, as far as I know. Once you better define your needs, ask more specific questions that are more likely to get satisfactory answers.

Good of them to leave a note, looks like the truck survives.

Thanks for posting this. I wish I could have been there, I loved Kyle Kunhausen's build!

Wow, that sucks in so many ways, were you in the truck? I hope you are ok.

That's crazy, in a good way. What are you planning for chassis strengthening?

You will not get reliable measurements from a multi meter if the component you are measuring is connected. That said, a fuel pump will have a fairly low DC resistance, and a continuity measurement will probably register as a short. So measure resistance with the pump wires disconnected. 9 volts is probably too low to power the pump. I would expect you to measure battery voltage (at least 12V) at the pump when the key is held in the START position, especially with the pump disconnected. If you measure battery voltage with the pump disconnected and 9V with the pump connected, you have bad wiring. Measure resistance from the negative to ground, it should be less than 1 ohm. if you can, measure the positive to the relay or ignition switch, it should be less than 1 ohm as well. I am not very familiar with how these cars are wired anymore, but if you can measure the wires and the connections in the circuit you will find the problem.

Sweet, looks really nice, congratulations.

Hmmm, make an offer.... And it's not even complete, where did the passenger seat and the radiator fan go?? (/s duh) I bet Jay Leno gets it.

300hp is easy with the internal wastegated turbo, 15psi and the MSA downpipe. I'm running a very similar setup, low tech, dynoed 313 to the wheels with stock motor and 12:1 AFR.

What a cute kid. My son had a similar condition, had surgery at 4 months. He's 17 years old now, doing well.

Thanks for that link, very informative and encouraging. The silvermine kit looks great, but it requires 16" wheels, and I already have all the parts but rotors and pads for the rear. I've got about $200 spent on this so far so I will definitely try it before changing parts again. Interesting about the Porterfield equipped shoes, I would not have thought that would be supported. I've already been driving for years with the 280ZX front calipers and vented rotors, so I'll probably have to mess with proportioning in any case, and I really don't like drums. Ah well. I do appreciate the input. If I ever get this thing back on the track, I will give some more feedback, and eat as much crow as necessary.

Proper fuse selection is based on the current rating of the wire in the circuits, so the wire can be protected in case of a short to ground. You are certainly picking your fuse correctly by finding the lowest rated part that won't blow in your circuit, but keep in mind fuses wear out with use, either through surges when the power is applied or through temperature rise by using the accessories in the circuits. Just to make sure you don't oversize your fuse, here is a guide for maximum fuse size by wire gauge: AWG 12 - fuse up to 20A AWG 10 - fuse up to 30A AWG 8 - fuse up to 50A http://bdfuses.com/fusesnwires.php

Wow, that looks stout.

As I said above, I have not had to modify the trans mount, just slot the T5 mounting ears, and it bolts in. There are several trans cross members out there that bolt in, at least on a 280Z, of course the 240Z is probably different. You can run a shortened version of the 280ZXT driveshaft, I've got a 280ZXT rear diff as well, but the input flanges on the R200 can be swapped out if you want to run a 3.54 from a 280Z.