NewZed

You've just re-invented throttle body fuel injection, abbreviated TBI. Hit the Google to learn more about your new old idea.

Looks like two separate problems, as implied in Post #6. Shift linkage, or shaft misalignment, inside the transmission, and bad or un-bled clutch hydraulics.

The curve is steep and not super accurate.

The factory option, same concept.

That's one way. The ECCS system probably runs the CHTS ground through the ECU. The better way to confirm that the ECU is getting what it needs though, would be to measure resistance to ground at the ECU plug and compare the resistance to the temperature versus resistance chart in the FSM. Continuity doesn't really tell you much. Study the diagram for the ECCS ECU and you'll probably be able to figure out which pin is ground and which is the temperature circuit. Check resistance of your other ECU grounds while you're in there, you might have high resistance on the main ground circuit which is giving high readings from the CHTS.

Check for continuity to ground on the other side of the connection at the CHTS. The ECU sends a voltage out that passes through the CHTS on its way to ground. One pin to the ECU, the other to ground. No ground is like no CHTS.

Stuff to check. Highlighted the non-electrical. Note also that their web site says the pumps are rebuildable to "as-new" condition. Polymer wear plates worn, perhaps. Q. Why is my fuel pressure too low, or I have no pump pressure? A. Check the voltage to the pump, relay switch. Could be faulty. They can be bad without going out. Weak relay reduces voltage. Replace them. Check wiring, look for an improper ground. Check the battery voltage. Check the filter and inlet line for obstructions. Look for leaks on inlet side. Adjust bypass. Is there debris in pump bypass (poppet). The bypass valve could be stuck open. Clean filter. Replace deteriorated fuel-cell foam. If no pressure, the pump may be operating in reverse. Check the wiring diagram. No fuel in fuel cell, or fuel cell improperly vented. http://magnafuel.com/support/index.htm http://magnafuel.com/products/efi/pumps/MP-4301.htm

Seems like you're focusing on spark but the problem might be with fuel. You said it started and idled, and that you have spark. How old is the fuel in the tank and carbs? How strong is the spark? Strong and blue or weak and orange? Modules have been known to partially fail. You might check spark and timing would be with starting fluid. Have someone squirt a few shots in while trying to start and have them try to keep it running with the fluid if it catches.

Can't remember something that wasn't mentioned. Your first post sounded like you just put a new system together, with old relays, and had problems. If it's a new problem on an old system that used to work, that's a whole different thought process. So, is everything 3-4 years old, and the problem is new, just out of nowhere? Or are there new parts, and a new problem? Did the relays you changed have any effect? Correlate the changes and a cause-effect relationship might pop out. Good luck. Don't get side-tracked.

Just to focus a little more, the extra juice when running directly from the battery is probably over-powering the blockage. It shouldn't take 10 seconds to get to 42 psi. You might be overheating the pump due to low flow from a blockage or a too-small inlet filter. The key though, is that you hear the pump spinning and you're not getting pressure. There's something odd about the specs on that pump though, The Summit Racing site says it draws 14 amps at 45 psi. That seems like a lot of amps. Anyway, try it without the pre-filter and see what happens. http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/magnafuel-protuner-750-series-in-line-fuel-pumps

Learned this trick on a different forum - right click on the image and you might get an option to search the internet for that image. It works with Chrome, I don't now about the other browsers. It worked for your image. https://www.google.com/search?tbs=sbi:AMhZZisCEH6AzzhnafBNrxStSiX8zrZAv9KVcbTg3tBwGznxnxEA2s6MSlDdQ_1Pt3W_1mYKa7eypuNyaWIF9rI3a1fiCbRa0LiNi-3_1CyB1cyy-uAVQxZOWYKNfmcy4cDCNGP4hI6Le0pnqHujN8mSzpxO-qs5k48wF0YOyWqf9gXnpog9dSqTDoSZY5mhdqTGk95rlYJMMiF4mqywHy03VpFUr1Cekhy-R1ZzNmY8yLjuQynGELvi5B9nmVa5FLADul3g3BE0HgyHdq4S68T7Gzzp_1vdP4600B93BAj8iFQAquM69Y2jpJKn88z8H6pMLeQMTI8ms8FzslimjzPLRWjL4CF_1H9hi6IDZqVgo49on0ksQk3LXO_1OA5RcFzUAZbxRUZJpvRegqHozfcWWlp8IoU2WlYHmYtVHjevS6J-D_1p4R0dQI2IydBhpYwJqPRmg-Ay8VE1zzrIz2VxzVRi3VXkFQ8I1ReJrsceLCvVsqmMncGFu3NbotN1PRsHOQeySk-0LQIhEQurifKY0LEORCT4FYrMwjSQXKrByKguE6tY_1ZDcGuCmimLOAisPc8KE3-2qGBabg68h94hSJ352D5X2vZk8LImN62eCDXSTBT-vibq5iZ-XjAG6cLvnPT6R4Zy-DF8_1ye2edQhjr4ks4v4j6oXZuB_1k9EfojvgbEFedlJ4K4LL5laVbnMgeJgzHcxCX5sK0sLQlOuHs3Ew8fLwnHRuECHOcdyQMbDfHntu_1L5YVQjbA2zJDKtHuDzDzIYp4MoYb28Ls7JVaxwmeB33MrZBjte_1SlE9Phe5ydLl0OSSOypcPDbO5clEmcgNV-rBvTEGm34610uNmkN1XNaoWSO8jvsVGMVwRW0a2VU5nbkBbvvEOQ5Irlta7lfIiKNFBL4BEt2c8epQxQKcUJvtO-tt2ZQT51_1LWHebwIQ-d6qB_1tpKoT8O5piu_10CMMtetIg7PsK5ZdLIZevA6CQCCIP7adLACZ4hUnhMzr9gqZPXfBDzy0-3YdEuSpX6t5-_1D6qLgRCDBLQvO809w_1_16egzjOwVes0raFvOBWr_1vOZdi2Iiy4B67BhAJfDWOh3eHQMHwuI_1FxHOBW-07gGwzXPGPVku0kO-GPwG6yrERThziV_1wTZ7VZkMKsxO_1i4BUNnhH9gTwcmPqq0uL7ArmgNbBXgJoeXX5stJwKI-z2ZtNw6v6d4abatl8nOzym39-Ff2q6TiM8hrVTB2jsubLnKVfoZsJGlWRjYv-a9s5cK5vJJ-hjT2df504dIVCcpY5gtOg07-iPTnmrXf2xAWvPRAQ6aNafUGVWyg3BJ1fRzmdt1NOjwfAlCp6e9y7LMeaXGIpmVKGlmUTltIePFN5jmWU3Fzs6ggTAApkORuXMAl7c-qJ38p2TXTJAhmy_1t-ZmnViqKg9jqfhaN8t0U9fD1sRGcKoVB-6mFxgvdlvzFo3rGTkRqCf9VXOuopUoWVLL2ZkLr3EBI

It doesn't look like an electrical problem.

None of these threads are any good? http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/35-nissan-v6-forum/

When the engine is running,throttle closed (idle) there's about an 8 psi differential between inside and and out. Your smoke test probably has less than one psi differential, if any at all. Pressurize the manifold with the smoke inside and see what happens. Just a guess. You didn't give any details on what the "smoke test" is.

This thread, Post #15, implies that you only added 100 lbs, if all you did was go from aluminum to iron blocks. You said it had an LS1 before. That 100 lbs seems to be having a larger effect than you'd expect. Is their extra stuff hanging off the front like AC compressors and power steering pumps? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59086-enginetrans-weights-definitive/ I'm no LSX engine expert but I think that the blocks for the Gen III engines are all essentially the same. Maybe the ZX just isn't suited for a V8 swap. It would be interesting to know the weight balance front to back of the car, as it sits. Even if you get the heights corrected, you might still end up with a wheel-spinning monster. Here's a good read on what you might have. Maybe you can make some adjustments. Looks like a fun problem. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_MountingInstructions.html And another - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun-ZX_Order.html

Does it not move at all, not read correctly, or twitch and jump? I had a combination of ignition module and coil that caused my tach to twitch and jump, and only read from zero to ~1500 RPM. An extra condenser (capacitor - the typical silver can from the distributor mount in this case) on the negative terminal of the coil removed the noise. I couldn't explain the details of why it worked, since I don't even really know how the tach works.

I only posted to help you clarify your issue. You should post in a ZX forum since your problem is with the ZX suspension. Seems like you might also have an issue with motor placement since the LQ4 is not supposed to be that much heavier than an L6 (100 lbs more?). Your front suspension "smash" seems excessive and the back end really shouldn't have raised, unless the new motor was placed ahead of the front suspension center line. I'm no expert though, and haven't swapped a ZX. Give some details on the swap.

So do you want to lower the ass end or raise the front end?

You can dink around on the Dorman site getting the search format right and choosing the right numbers, to find some options. Other sites, like Summit Racing, tend to have explicit descriptions too, that will let you narrow a search. It takes a few iterations. Oreilly Auto is another site that has detailed part descriptions. I've found also, that using the the "site" term in Google will find many things that a company's own search engine won't find. I usually make one search to see the format, then just replace numbers with partial numbers, like 0.5 instead of 0.509, to narrow. Here's the Dorman page and an option. It could be narrowed further with a specific knurl diameter, the 610-409 part just happened to be on the first page. http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=wheel+stud+M12-1.50+Serrated+Wheel+Stud http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32691-610-409.aspx?origin=keyword Edit - meant to add also, that the OReilly and Dorman sites both show the 350Z as a .5649" knurl. I used 2006 as the year. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/610378/02990.oap?year=2006&make=Nissan&model=350Z&vi=1433005&ck=Search_wheel+stud_02990_1433005_-1&keyword=wheel+stud&pt=02990&ppt=C0337 http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=610-378 And, sites like OReilly have a "Compatibility" page for each part that shows the cross-reference Tony D mentioned. Pretty handy.

Look for value. Receipts and proof that a pro rebuilt the head, versus some guy in his garage. New valve seals don't count as a rebuild. How many accessories and what shape are they in. An old worn out alternator isn't worth much. You can get a used engine form a wrecking yard for about $350. Is it worth $250 more for what you're going to get. Since you're in jail you should be looking for cops on the drive out.

Spend some time thinking about the "givens". Many of the popular mods are popular for irrational reasons. Some have been shown to be ineffective. Some of your old parts might be fine. On the future - if you're going with EFI over the 4-barrel carb, then the surge tank sytem, fuel cell, bugger fuel return lines, etc. make sense now. If not, maybe the stock system is fine for a carb.

For those with 280Z's - the rear strut assembly is too long, longer than the early S30's, to slip out from under the fender well without loosening the inner rear control arm bolts, unless you put a lot of pressure on it. The 240Z's do seem easier to get done. On the nut - you can stick a bar or long screwdriver between the three studs to get leverage, with the strut assembly out or dropped. It's shown that way in the FSM's. Or dill two holes in a piece of steel to set over two studs. Everyone's got their own little tricks and most depend on what tools you have available. Some let the stock springs fly when replacing with shorter springs, if they don't have a spring compressor..

Loosen the center strut rod nut before doing anything else. A socket wrench will work, no vises or impact wrenches required.

Posted Today, 01:03 PM Actually I'm running Windows 7 64 bit under the latest IE. Mine works. Pasted the above from Post #5. I have 32 bit Windows 7, with Chrome browser. Text will cut and paste, images won't. Maybe there's an image in the text you think you've cut. For quite a while I had all three of the main browsers installed. Each one had its own strengths. IE and Firefox bloated and slowed pretty rapidly over the last year though. Chrome works great. As far as privacy, it's pretty apparent now that there is none, no matter what browser you use. Pasted an image below just to be sure. edit - well I guess some images do paste. Better. Administrator Administrators 9177 posts LocationLa Habra, CA, USA Posted Today, 03:27 PM Then the issue is the latest IE. Like This ----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC Quote MultiQuote Add As Video

That's a capacitor, AKA condenser. It knocks down electrical noise from the ignition system. If you have a decent meter you can test it. You can replace it with an alternator capacitor or your Nissan dealer probably has one. They're common to many cars. Just because you have fuel pressure that doesn't mean that the injectors are opening and delivering fuel to the engine. You can have spark and no injector opening, and get a no-start. Best to confirm no spark, using a tester or a spare spark plug. Also, the EFI system has its own power supply. You could have power to everything else, but none to the ECU and injectors. If your fuel system is in good order, it will hold pressure without the pump running. Carry a good meter and a spare spark plug in the car, and have a testing plan ready for next time it happens. There are a few key things that you can test within about 5 minutes, that will tell you more about what's really going on. In the meantime you could open and clean your power supply and ground wire connectors to the EFI system. Often overlooked since there's no reason to disconnect them. They're exposed and they get dirty and corroded.