NewZed

It is low on power. And you still haven't told much about the engine. And you still have big injectors on a motor that has no need for them. Like you're not really sure what you're doing. Sorry. You'll have to learn the basics of how engines work. Especially these L series engines. It's all well documented on the site. Except for "W45 intake". Not clear what that is. Show that you have your cam on the right hole and the notch and groove are aligned. What's your compression ratio? Is valve lash properly adjusted? The basic starting points, before you even begin tuning. Your list of things doesn't mean a whole lot without the details. Somebody can probably look at your MS file and get you a few more HP. But there's a lot more to it than just a "tune". Good luck.

It's nice work. But the front mount has the same leverage problem that most of the short nose diff mounts have. The nose load has a short lever on the two body mount bolts. The back bolt is essentially a fulcrum, getting upward load under forward acceleration, and the front bolt gets a downward load.

Exhaust leaks often make a mechanical sounding ticking noise. Kind of sounds like the temperature rise has made you sensitive to all kinds of normal noises. Oil pressure will drop as temperature rises. Does coolant temperature still rise at higher RPM? If you don't have an HG leak in to the cooling system, your cooling system should have been able to maintain temperature. I'd fix your cooling system first. Sounds like it might need work.

100 HP is pretty bad. You don't mention a cam profile, or cam timing, or exhaust system, or compression ratio, or any head work, or much at all in the way of mechanical details. Looks like a stock engine, which typically gets about 130 - 150 HP, with bigger injectors. No point in the big injectors if you can't pull the air to use the fuel. The site just had a series of posts about how attention to the fine details will get you more than the typical 150. You're on the other side, working with few details. No offense, it's just the way it looks. The tune can only maximize to the limits of the mechanical work.

I think that John Coffey had the high HP ITS engine. Search his old posts. Here's one example, but it doesn't describe the engine building just the results. He mentions 200 HP. But I remember reading some of his other posts. It is about attention to detail. Edit - also search just John Coffey and horsepower. Every now and then he would post his best bang for the buck list for creating power from a stock starting point.

So, the pistons aren't the "same" weight. What are you going to recommend?

Is there a question? Just curious. It's a Toyota engine?

The idle speed change is a clue. Could be a big vacuum leak. A small leak raises idle speed, a bigger one drops it. A huge one kills the engine. Could be lash set too tight, or too loose. If you have an intake system vacuum gauge it's a good tool for comparing cylinders while running. The needle will jump. Overall though, all you did, hopefully, was adjust the gap between rocker arm pad and cam lobe. If you got all of the hoses connected correctly and the valve cover gasket placed properly it should be fine. The oil smell might be oil leaking from the valve cover. Who knows. There's nothing you can really screw up. I would retrace the steps you took and see if something's out of place.

I don't hear a knocking noise. If you didn't let the engine warm up you'll get a wet black deposit. Wet carbon is greasy feeling. You might be overthinking things, and nervous about your recent work. If you're sure got the lash aright, warm it up and drive it and see how it sound when it's hot.

The pump is external. There's drawing on page FE-3 with labels. This is from 1982's.

It's not really an adapter. It's an axle. Heat on the flange of the half-shaft. The part that needs to expand. But really, a big plastic hammer or even a piece of 2x4 will do it. Just grab a piece of wood, hold on to the axle (the new shiny part), and hit the half-shaft flange. It will pop right off.

It's not the collar alone that matters. It's the collar (or sleeve as Nissan calls it), and the pressure plate. Together. Start at #35 here and it will make more sense. Maybe. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44389-l28-is-toasting-my-240z-clutch/?page=2 Here's another interesting one -

Hard plastic hammer, block of wood...the part that's sticking is just a press fit. Use a heat gun instead of torch if you don't want to burn your paint.

Necroposting to a Level 10 Necroposter. Apropos. Maybe the @ thing will work @jeffp

Why are you not posting on classiczcars.com? Hybridz is the site where people are most likely to remove their SU's and sell them.

Add any head skimming to the program. Are these guys building the engine for you or just doing machine work? A good shop should be able to lay out everything that they think they need to do, before they even start. Piecemeal from the internet doesn't seem very quick.

Points or electronic? Pictures?

They should be able to estimate the depth with some simple measurements. If it's just some pitting next to a water passage you could probably seal it with JB Weld. Don't conflate coolant pressure with cylinder pressure. Pictures would be neat. Might get some better advice. Edit - not that advice so far isn't good. Just more of it.

These guys probably have what you're looking for. http://www.zspecialties.com/ https://zcardepot.com/oil-pump-drive-spindle-oem-280zx-turbo-81-83.html

Looks like you should have an L83. Things got weird in the 80's with lots of variation, I've never heard of some of the L's. Still, it's a standard early small block chevy. The JTR kit and book should work fine, I'd guess. Those extra pins on the alternator are probably for ECU diagnostics. Not necessary. Good luck. Even with the intake it's probably down on horsepower but probably still a torque monster. A diff and axle breaker. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine#L83

Build a similar plate to the one you already have but put it directly over the mounting points. Run some pipe up the plate, or build a structure from more plate. You could even use threaded pipe portions for pinion angle adjustment. Or tie it in to the tunnel. Removes the leverage problem and clears up a lot of space. Looks like you have the fabrication skills.

First glance says that you have a bad MC. You'll get a firm pedal at first then the pedal drops when pressure blows fluid past a bad seal. The booster gives that extra force to blow the seal. Edit - I wrote something about how "new" reman's are often bad out of the box but it didn't get through for some reason. Weird. Anyway, there it is. "New" doesn't mean good.

Does it even run? Do you have a place to work on it? Not really enough info to say if it's worth $500. If it takes another $1000 to make it a daily driver, keep looking for a $1500 car that runs. Add up the parts you'll have to buy just to get it going. The "seal" on the front brake is going to need a new caliper. A decent battery is $100. If the tires are shot, that's another $600. Looks like the tires don't even match. It might just be a parts car. If you can't take it for a test drive, don't buy it.

There's no this.

It's very often the bleed valve orientation. A bad booster won't cause the pedal to go to the floor. You either have bad seals in the MC, air in the hydraulic lines, or a mechanical misadjustment. The standard test for air in the lines is to see if the pedal will "pump up". Pump the pedal quickly several times and see if the pedal gets higher.