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Showing results for tags '280z'.
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I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car
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Hello All, I've been looking for a Datsun 280z for a few months now, and with my fingers crossed tomorrow might be the day. With that being said I'm unaware of actual condition and have only seen pictures. If it is purchased tomorrow I will be posting pictures as soon as possible to get a bit of feedback as this will be my first project car. From what I've seen it looks good though👍. My apologies ahead of time, I've never worked on a car so I'm very unfamiliar with things. ALL TIPS & CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM APPRECIATED. The Goals LS3/T56 Swap - I plan to buy a total kit from Jegs. (https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/CPSLS376525T/10002/-1) my only concern is that it says Super magnum I had trouble finding that specifically on google/forums. So if I need something like this (https://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/TUET11009/10002/-1) let me know. A/C - really hoping to be able to make this work with the swap as I do intend to daily the vehicle. Was able to find some people could make something over at Vintage Air work. Air Suspension - This has been another difficult area as it seems the only answer has been custom. I am hoping to be able to get an accuair CVT system to work. Rear End/Suspension - This is an area I do need some help in. what would be good enhancements/upgrades to the rear end and suspension? I know the air will just work as the coilovers but what else should be done to ensure a safe and somewhat comfortable ride around 500Whp? Aero/Bodykit - Rocket Bunny Pandem widebody Frame Reinforcement - Since I will be going for higher HP I plan to take precautionary measures and get the frame reinforced to hopefully prevent any bending if there are any kits or tips in this area much appreciated. Roll Cage - here in SF I was able to find someone to Fab/weld in Comfort/Bucket Seats - want the race look but still want to run a harness and be able to go for prolonged car rides without discomfort. Open to ALL suggestions! 😊 Power Windows/Locks - Found a Kit here (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-4211) seems a few people managed to install without issue. Big Brake kit - not top priority as I'm learning I may not be able to run this setup with air or specific rims (more of a dream) A brake upgrade will be preformed nonetheless. I'm sure that I missed so many things but I figure this is a good place to start and it hopefully gives everyone an idea of what i'm going for. I have some BIG goals for the interior but I need to make sure the car is in good running condition before I worry to much about all of that. please point out anything that I missed out or may not be thinking of when getting into this swap. Just to help those who will say "too much for a first project" or "learn more before doing this" I will be working along side a certified mechanic while everything is being done to the vehicle😃. The budget is going to be $35,000 I understand a large portion will go to the engine but there isn't necessarily a limit just spending will slow down significantly after😅. Hope to hear back from some people soon so I can start to get some better ideas on where to start this project. Cheers!
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Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.
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For Sale- NOS 280z coupe backglass. PPG brand- part# FB1222 Been in warehouse for decades. Rare part perfect for your restoration. NLA No scuffs or scratches! $150 plus PayPal fee/Shipping
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Cross-post from Fabrication/Welding. I'm looking at buying this '75 280z. The biggest downside is one of the frame rails has abut an 18" stretch of chewed out metal. Here's what it looks like https://imgur.com/a/TkbKOEo. Are the rails too banged up and rusted to be repaired? And would repairing them bee too costly? Currently the owner is asking 8500 for the car. The only other rust is a little bit in the upper part of the passenger footwell/firewall
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Looking for a ‘78 280z engine wiring harness with A/C. john
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Hello all, 1st post on this forum Picked up myself a 1976 280z and looking at getting new wheels and tires. Decided on Rota Grids V, 16x8 with 0 offset for the fronts and 16x9 for the rears. Slightly lowered but otherwise stock suspension at the moment... I've searched and 16x8 with 0 offset clears rears and barely fronts (strut side). So apparently rears have more room between inner wheel edge and the strut, would I be able to get away with 16x9 with 0 offset, or I have to run -15 Offset? Prefer to go with 0 offset wheel so I don't have to massage wheel arches much. Any help will be much appreciated, have a wonderful day! Thanks, Paul Found it, for anyone else looking for this - YES, 16x9 with 0 offset will fit 280z rear (with stock struts) Post by m1ghtymaxXx in the attachment below has an answer! Will 15x9 -10 wheels fit 280z - The Tool Shed - HybridZ.mht -
I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.
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Hey guys im going to be running fuel lines on my 280z w an Rb25det. Looking to put a rear sump on my gas tank and run walbro 255 fuel pump, z32tt fuel filter and a isr fuel pressure regulator. What type of lines should i run. Keep in mind i have a babre bone shell w everything stripped so ill b starting from scratch. Any input would be nice as far as what kind of line to use not planning on using e85.
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Hi HybridZ, I am Allen G, I'm from North Carolina and I have a 78 280z that I thought I would share as an introduction. I bought my car as a bone stock 280z about 8 years ago and I have been working on improving it ever since. The car currently has a stock(ish) RB25DET and the stock RB transmission that came with it, and is being run on an AEM Infinity ECU. The car has a radium dual pot surge tank, n1 oil pump, and baffled oil pan, but I am currently contemplating having the rear head drain improved to cut down on the possibility of having oiling issues these motors are known for. I've got it running through an OS Giken superlock CLSD geared to 3.92 with wolf creek CV axles. The car sits on T3 coil-overs and I currently have 15" rota grids wrapped with Toyo Proxes RA1s, from what I have experienced with the tires thus far I would recommend them highly! I am building the car for road course use, I am not much for the drag racing aspect of motorsports and VIR is a short drive away for me. I recently got the opportunity to test the performance of the vehicle on track at NCCAR here in NC and it went great! I thought I was in love with the car before but now I REALLY want to keep improving both the car and my own skills driving it. I will say I have worked in the car business all my life and I am not totally uninformed, but I am also always learning and I will probably be learning for a long time to come. Check out my car and let me know what you think, it's a pretty decent setup but there are a lot of aspects that I am still trying to perfect. Thanks for reading, I am looking forward to engaging with you and learning from all of you!
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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🤒 Got her about 3 weeks ago. Has quite a bit done already. BC racing coil overs, polyurethane bushings. New brake cylinders, fuel cell, fuel rail, Ford 508 fuel injectors, full custom straight pipe exhaust &, of course, the Megasquirt system that runs to a crank thingy and O2 sensors. I just switched out the oil pan gasket since it was completely covered in oil underneath. I sprayed it with some heat resistant paint. Bleed the brakes with limited success (still don’t feel good). I installed the noico sound and heat insulation near the shift boot opening and still need to work on adding sound insulation later. Everyone keeps telling me to keep the stock L28 so I plan on just adding a 280ZX Turbo later on. ive read a lot of information here and had some help on Facebook as well. My car knowledge is limited so I’ll be searching the forums for a complete parts listing to turbo her and information on interior parts and installation! Please dont tell me about the fender mirror placement, I’ve heard it enlighten already. I took it to a body work specialist and he said I’d be better off wrapping the car after getting it Epoxied. Does anyone know around what price range I can expect for and epoxy and wrap? And can I just leave it epoxied until I’m ready for wrapping?
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So I bought this car by mistake. I honestly thought I wouldn't win the ebay auction when I made my offer...stupid me. Anyway, I am looking to get rid of it, all out, or part it out. What are your opinions? I already have a 1975 280Z project going on and this is just too much for me to tackle. It came with four carbs total, has two rear coilover setups, an aftermarket gas tank, some janky custom metal work (no offense if one of you originally owned it) and some chassis reinforcement that I actually like. Alloy wheels Not sure if the diff is original, but probably is. Comes with another R200 with a "limited slip device" installed inside it. Also, something weird is going on in the back. There were some racing lights installed on cards, which are in my garage. There also looks to have been a wing at some point. The lock mechanism needs replacing and the driver door linkage needs fixing. You have to hold the lock UP to open it...won't open from the outside. Here is the link to my dropbox with all the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e6j0h829xuizkxu/AAA2yzieFc72zxkFWHuTEcITa?dl=0 I've attached 4
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Was able to attend a local roll race event. Here are a couple of passes of my ls7 280z!!! Enjoy!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkqF5j8-Kjs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMkUFN4t0ms
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Located in Nashville, TN. Partially parting out my car to make it a weekend/SCCA car. Have pictures of the parts and can provide to you on request in PM. Vehicle was originally a California car and have tried to clean up most parts that had surface rust with Evapo-rust. Prices do not include shipping, which will tabulated and provided to you before completing transaction. Will use Paypal or Venmo, or local pick up. Expand the attached photo for available parts and prices.
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Great to have found HybridZ Forums. Have been reading lots of useful zinformation for 2-3 hours and decided to register. This red ‘77 280Z is my 4th Z recently purchased in November 2018. In my late 20s to early 30s I owned a ‘73 240Z, ‘75 280Z and ‘74 260Z in that order. Of course they were fairly new back in the day. That’s me in 1979 with my silver ‘75 280Z. Wish I could have kept it. LOL Yes, I absolutely love these beautiful S30 Datsuns. Look forward to the forums here being a great resource for maintaining our 40+ year old cars. It’s a passion and love affair!
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hi....need front plastic panel for this type sunroof....905-857-6345 phone or text - rob showcars-bodyparts.com
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Hey guys like the title says I am new here , my name is wayde been planning this swap for 5 years now, and actively workin on it for just over a year now. I posted in the members projects section under s30 , including a list of everything that's added to the engine aftermarket wise, don't think I mentioned rear sump conversion but there is a picture. please let me know what you think , happy to answer any questions and hoping to get feedback on what I could or should do next, because a project is never done
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Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler ,
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Looking for some advice before I dive head first into the engine bay. It is a 1977 280z pretty stock minus headers So I had accidentally left my head lights on. So, of course, my battery died. I tried to jump start the car and it cranked and smelled of gas but wouldn't turn over. I figured I might have flooded the engine for trying to much so I let the car sit for about 24 hours. I brought a new battery (tested and all so I know it works) and it was the same problem. The engine cranks and I smell gas but it won't actually turn over. The ignition coil has spark. The distributor has spark. But it just won't turn over. Any ideas of what to check? Also I should add the for about a week and a half before this happened my car has been running a bit rough. It just started out of nowhere. The engine has a bit more shake to it and there seems to be a good loss of power. I kind of suspected the water temp sensor since I had a problem with it in the past. I replaced it's plug but not the sensor itself. And if I ever touched it while the car was running it would cause a rough idle. Anyways if anyone can give me some advice it would be much appreciated. I'd just like to add that I'm a young car enthusiast. I know my way around a wrench (I've changed the intake and exhaust manifold myself and cleaned up some wiring) but I'm far from an expert. And I know very little about the science of electricity.
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Hello Everyone, recently I have become an owner of running 1977 Datsun 280Z. I have always loved them and wanted to get hands on one of them, I have gotten my hands on this 280Z 2+2 GHLS 4 SPD. I am in love with the car, but it does have its flaws. I would like to sincerely ask the HybridZ community for any and all the help you all can provide on bringing my car to at its best. The known issues so far are as follows: All the lights work other than the front Headlights, and Hazard button does not work. Passenger door does not close fully and it seems does not latch on to the hook. Water on the floor of the car from rain seems to be getting in from the doors. Shift boot is nonexistent and can see the ground from the shift lever. (hence the fumes from busted exhaust are almost at hazardous level while driving the car) Atlast the Dreaded Rust is certainly present but it is not severe at as far as I can tell. I am very excited to join the community and would like to humbly ask for all of your help to keep this beautiful car alive and well. Thanks
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Hey all, Firstly thanks for clicking on my build thread and taking the time to read/look at the pictures. So where do I start, if you read my new members post you will see I picked up this 280z from a friend in a trade deal whereby I swapped my home built s2000 turbo (some say I'm crazy to get rid of it but bah, what the hell.. I knew the s2000 was going to a good home and I love old Z cars.) Here it is when I went round to view it at my friends house... I instantly fell in love... I knew I just had to have it! It already had the SR20DET swap which is a little rough round the edges, but in the PO defence, he had 28 day warranty on the engine so had to get it into the car as soon as he could to make sure it checked out OK. This wasn't long after he had it all up and running. I drove home that night with a huge smile on my face knowing I would be a Z car owner!! My dream car was going to be mine. So the day came to swap the cars, here is an image of the 2 cars together..
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Hey y'all, I need some clarification. From what I've read in various forums and conversations & a few google searches. Datsun utilized 2 or 3 versions of the 5 speed for the 280z. Again, from what I've read. It seems as though the later 80-83 version is the more desirable due to it being a close ratio gearbox compared to the earlier versions. And from what I can tell, it doesn't seem as though there is any identification numbers stamped on the transmission. I did read that if the 5 speed has one hanger at the tail end then it's the more desirable version compared to the earlier version which would have two hangers/forks? There was a 4204C label stamped on it, not that this probably helps. If anyone can tell me which version of the 5 Speed I bought, I'd appreciate it. Did anything that I mentioned above seem to be completely wrong? Thank you in advance!
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