grannyknot

First thing I thought but wasn't going to say anything Could you just go to the DMV with the VIN and find out who owns it now?

I saw this and thought about this thread, this GTO needs some love, https://northtorontoauction.com/v/235884

I'll wait a couple of years until all the bugs have been worked out, lots of potential.

Sorry to have to tell this but your camber adjustment is all negative, the outside of your slot starts where the original hole was and the slot goes inboard so any adjustment is neg camber, I tried something similar and ran into the same problem so had to cut off the right angle flange on the outside of the cross member, add more steel plate so the slot could go into the positive then weld a right angle flange back on. The 1st pic is stock

Well if your machinist really is experienced then it might be worth it, he probably won't be using a Helicoil, more likely he would use a Time-sert, get your machinist to re seat the dowel pin as @Canadianz mentions above, if it wiggles out you're in for bent valves.

Just contact Nissan and buy a new bolt or Z Car Source and get a good used one, same for the cam, new or good used.

It could also be that it was over torqued in past and the bolt is now stretched.

You could also put in a electric vacuum pump, Volvo uses them a lot, used ones are cheap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-11-VOLVO-V50-C30-C70-S40-SEDAN-ABS-SERVO-VACUUM-PUMP-BRAKE-BOOSTER-MOTOR-OEM/223224522343?fits=Make%3AVolvo&epid=1711309953&hash=item33f937e667:g:3wUAAOSwKCZb5fuc

Do you access to a good flaring tool? If not consider something like this,https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pro-brake-tubing-flaring-tool-with-45-and-37-degree-die-set.html It's the best flaring tool I've ever used and if you don't think you'll ever use it again you can sell it on Craigs and get a big chunk of your money back. The one I bought has done complete brake lines on four Z's now and still shows no wear.

No there is nothing special about the core plugs but not sure where you could buy one, the only thing to be careful with is the aluminum threads in the head. That plug separates the oil from the coolant.

I'm not positive but it sure looks like the power cutoff switches that were sold in the 80's, it came with a couple of those round keys that you mostly saw on vending machines.

$1500 is not bad, the panels alone should get you that back then you get keep all the goodies for yourself. I found the best thing about a parts car Z was all the fasteners, they are getting hard to find and it's nice to get them all re zincd and have them on hand for when you need them. Parting a Z is a drag but you have to think about all the guys you are helping to get their Z's on the road.

For me that is right on the edge of trying to save it, it could be done but there is an awful lot of poor repair jobs that have to be redone. Hope you got cheap, parting out is a lot more work than most think, I would just sell it as, everyone seems to want these cars now.

You have to take the rings off the stubs and install them in your diff, both rings fit into the cutaway slots down the axle hole.

Well you don't have much to work with there so you really only have one shot at it, scrape away the rust on the block by the stud, can you get your hands on a oxy/acetlane torch set up? That would be the best but in a pinch MAP gas, the yellow bottle may work. You want to get that area really hot and cool it down with PB Blaster or WD40 then reheat it again. Repeat that 5-6 times then get a nut with the proper thread and screw it on snug, Mig weld the top of the stud to the nut and reheat the block around the bolt then un screw it.

You should probably think of it as a one off, you will have to do some innovative modifications to tie that stump puller rear end into the unibody. A 280z that has had a badly done V8 great cause it should be cheap, 240's are just too expensive now. The body was only designed for about 200hp so will have to beef it up, electric power steering is easy and light. Big big project, will take lots of dedication and probably more than a few years. I hope you do it, would love to watch.

Nice work, you will love it in parking lots.

That could be great fun, a Tesla is 2,000 lbs heavier than a Z.

Wow, thanks for posting that. That fender even if it had no dents still wouldn't look good, the inner mounting flange is way taller than stock. Did you get your money back?

davek, congrats! Yes I would like to see the pics, I 'm very happy with my Equinox/Bruno's system I built, I have pushed my system hard and it works perfectly in all situations. In fact I had the car out at the track last year and had done a half dozen laps and remembered I had power assist now, turned up the dial a bit and started shaving seconds on my lap times.

As far as I can see Nissan put the spacer there because of the MC they decided to use, your new MC doesn't need the spacer. What's important is the proper setup and length of the brake booster push rod, you could try it both ways, it won't take 10 min. to switch over.

I believe Tabco is the only company still making them although quite few places sell them.

Ahhh, makes sense, all I had to do was read the title of the thread, apologies.

The proportioning valve is part of the design, it balances the amount of the flow to the rear brakes so they don't lock up before the front brakes. If you have no PV then you're probably getting 50% F, 50% R if you have to slam the brakes on your rears will lock up and you start your skid. Why would you think it is obsolete?

Nice treatment on the tips and the SS surround, are you using any resonators?