jhm

I've got one; may have the clips as well. I'll take a look when I get home later today and send you pictures, if that's ok.

Curious if anyone else has had this problem?

One thing that caught my eye is the angle of your front control arms...they're already past level, which you normally only see in lowered cars. This is detrimental, if you desire negative camber in your suspension geometry, and the usual fixes include relocating the control arm mounting point and/or bump steer spacers. I didn't see anything about what size wheels and tires you're running. Did you already provide that info? My apologies if you did and I missed it.

Nice original driveshaft, pulled from a non-running early-model 260Z (prod. 11/73) with 4-speed transmission and R180 w/ curved mustache bar. Should fit other years with that drivetrain configuration, but can't guarantee that. U-joints still seem tight; no slop. Shaft and splines clean and undamaged. $80 plus shipping. Thx for looking.

Nice -- thx! Bonus that they're an easy install/adaptation.

Sorry, don't know about a 1997 Bonneville specifically; but I can suggest that it's never a good idea to disconnect the battery from a running vehicle. The battery and alternator work as a system to provide stable voltage and amperage to the vehicle's electrical system, and removing the battery can easily disrupt the system's stability, resulting in damage to the electrical system (particularly, the vehicle's more delicate electronics). I don't mean to sound preachy, but this forum is designed for the discussion of Datsun/Nissan Z cars, although I'm sure someone would speak up if they had specific knowledge useful to you...everyone here is a very helpful bunch. I'm just suggesting that you might find more expertise and experience for your specific issue on a Pontiac or GM forum? A quick google search yielded these top two results: www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum, and https://pontiacforum.com/pontiac. Good luck with it.

Very nice on the 350Z seats....curious how much they weigh? They look fairly lightweight, but with nice side bolsters and bracing.

Trying to leave Feedback for members, and the "Security Check" keeps blocking me....telling me that I'm not passing the security check. I'm filling in all the required information blocks, but can not figure out what I'm doing wrong. Tried searching the site to see if this had been addressed previously, and did not see any discussions on this specific topic. Thank you for any assistance you can offer.

Wow, Conrad280zx sure is a mindless moron. Is that how kids speak these days??

Any of the gents mentioned above would do a great job, and I applaud anyone that's willing to put the time and effort into this forum. If they're interested, I think Miles and New Zed would also be great candidates for Moderator positions. My two cents...

Same here today (29 Nov), but haven't had any problems in the last couple weeks. Weird. P.S. It's an MSA Type 3 airdam, right?

I can recall there were some batches a year or two ago that were not properly hear-treated; which is probably what cause that negative review you saw on eBay. Have not heard anything bad about them since. $375 is a great price. I would go for it.

Lots of options available: Techno Toy Tuning (T3), Arizona Z Car, and Ground Control (GC) are some of the more popular coilover conversions; and all work well for most racing applications. If you haven't done so yet, check out the "Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis" section in the FAQs. TONS of great info there. You can also fab your own coilovers if you want a more custom setup, which is what I did: universal sleeves, Swift springs, and Bilstein shocks. Good thing you have welding and fabrication skills....you're going to need them with these old cars! Good luck with whatever route you choose.

Just saw this, and have to say Joel's passing is another big loss to the Z community and everyone that knew him. He was a big help to me during my recent build; and I knew he was having some health issues, but had no idea how serious. Truly an all-round nice guy. Sometimes life really sucks. RIP buddy, and Blue Skies.

P.N. BZ 3038

I have a set of Illuminas that were used in the rear struts of my 1973 260 for about a year. It's an early-model 260, so it has the same rear strut tubes as the 240Z, so these shocks have the correct spacers for 240 rear. As you know, you can pull the spacer off and use the same shock in the front struts. I'm the second owner on these shocks, so I can't tell you how old they are; but they seem to still have decent damping. No physical damage to the shock bodies other than typical scratches and wear marks from mounting. The adjuster hardware is all in good condition and seems to functioning correctly. How about $75 plus shipping for the pair?

I use GM truck motor mounts on my 350 SBC. They're cheap, sturdy and fit well.

Will do...please give me a couple days.

I've got a good left door (actually have a good right door too) but I think shipping would be pretty expensive. No rust, no bondo, good glass. I'm in zip 23602, if you want to shop for shipping quotes. Greyhound can often be the best deal for big heavy items. LMK if you're interested.

Not mine. Been on eBay for three months now. Can't imagine why it hasn't sold.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240-Z-HEAD-LIGHT-COVER-CRACKED/302191846961?hash=item465c09a631:g:KNEAAOSwA3dYc8pN&vxp=mtr

My late-model 260Z also had the fuel lines running along the passenger frame rail. Car was lowered, raced often, and never had an issue with debris damage to the lines. If you really want to go the extra mile, you could sheath the lines with clear or black hose for extra protection in the most vulnerable areas.

Agree with Nullbound. It should clear....IF you have the car high enough on jack stands. I'm assuming you have a leveler?

You didn't mention the differential mounts, so I would check those as well...this includes the front mount at the nose of the diff and the rear mounts/mustache bar. Even if the nuts and bolts are tight, you can get movement and vibration if the bushings are worn. Most people replace the OEM stuff with poly bushings. And don't forget to check your lower control arm mounting points, as well. I had a rear vibration under similar conditions as you a few years ago and it was driving me nuts trying to track it down. Turned out to be worn rubber bushing on the inner spindle bolts of the LCAs. Replaced all four of them with these guys, and problem solved. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.3104 Good luck with it.

Not sure which harness you have, but you can usually swap out the mounting hardware on many harness setups. (And you can also swap the rear part of the shoulder harnesses as well, as pointed out by theczechone.) Also, have you considered a 4-point roll bar as an alternative to the harness bar? Usually see used bars online for not much more than the new T3 harness bar. Another option for your consideration... Good luck with it. And be sure to post your results once you've decided which route to go. Thx!

Yep, nothing wrong with that. In my case, I eliminated it to give more clearance for the exhaust. Others remove it for weight savings. The little U clips on the rear mounts of the LCA inner spindle also fit the forward mounts. Keep up the great work!