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I don't think I've seen anyone mold in ZG flares, since their whole aesthetic is the bolt on look. Plenty of people have molded in other flares, though. The bodywork in this thread was really well done.

Four (or more) pins definitely make it easier to get into the engine bay and do things, but 2 pins and hinging it is infinitely easier if you're by yourself. You also avoid needing to find space to set the hood or worrying about the wind flipping it and ruining the paint. It's all tradeoffs.

Multiple people have said it already, but if everything in the diff checks out and it's still noisy, check things that aren't the diff. A slight vibration could make a lot of noise with stiff mounts. A video like Sanchez asked for woild help us help you.

What are you planning on ducting the air to? And why did you add in scoops for the stock fresh air vents on both sides? Worried about needing that much ventilation?

This should be in the for sale forum, since it's not a project thread. You need to be a donating member to post there, though.

Yes...

If it's the correct pump and shipping isn't too outrageous, I'd be willing to do that. Do you have any idea about how much shipping would cost?

Cut just enough that you can bottom the shock and then trim more afterward?

I also have no interest in putting heim joints on a street car. They're noisy enough as it is. I couldn't really get a good picture to show the depth of the grooves, but I did my best to measure them. One is less than a tenth of a millimeter deep, and the other is just under 0.2mm deep at its deepest, and less for most of it. The tube is 25mm, and the bolt that goes inside it is 22mm at the max thread diameter, so 1.5mm of metal on each side. I'm going to guess there's more than a 10-15% factor of safety on the tubes, so it should be ok. I might still try to just put some tacks in and smooth it back out. If sheet metal can be welded without warping, I'd think the tube could be. Buying a new one is also an option if I see a cheap one. Thanks everyone.

One of my rear control arm/transverse links had a bushing that was rusted to the tube. I tried a few different things to get it off, but eventuality had to resort to cutting it off. In doing so, I accidentally went a little deep on both sides and scored the tube that slides inside the bushing. One side is hardly more than a deep scratch, but the other side is more significant. What are everyone's thoughts on dealing with this? Run a small bead of weld down the groove and grind it smooth? Or just run it as is? I had assumed the bushings rotate around the tube when the suspension moves, but is that not the case? Or did this bushing just somehow rust solid in the ~2.5 years it's been sitting in my southern California garage?

I'll be very interested to see how much this car weighs once you're done with it.

Oh, you wanted shops to put a different engine in your Datsun, not a shop to work on your Datsun. If you wanted someone who knows SR20s, you should specify that in the question.

Oh damn. $99 is a heck of a sale.

Yes, ProTunerz has been around for a bit. People seem to be happy with their products, despite them just being remixes of things from this forum. You might try the fuel rail OG, pallnet. I'm not sure what his prices are these days.

Newest thread in this sub-forum 5 years old? The top two non-stickied posts are from the last couple months

https://datsunspirit.com/

No. You need aftermarket engine management if you want to go fully sequential.

Anyone ever hear back? Someone on Facebook was asking if they were responding again.

You are correct. Thanks for that. I must have had oil on the mind last night while typing. A water pump is what I'm after.

As the title says, I'm looking for a genuine LD28 water pump with the larger impeller. Hopefully someone that bought one back in the day still has it lying on their shelf somewhere.

I wonder if there's anyone that produces a projector light that has etched glass or something similar to imitate a reflector light. In a vacuum I think I'd prefer the old school look, but it's close enough that the performance gain is worth it.

Any particular reason for not just going with a standard mirrored dual exhaust?

It all comes down to personal taste, and how much you value form vs function. I think they look fine, and modern projectors are going to be much better than reflector headlights.

I have a 1972, but I'd still love to see pictures of the molds. What material did you print them in?

I've looked into a lot of the CNC router options that claim they're capable of cutting aluminum, but I've never been convinced the stiffness is there to get super accurate. What kind of tolerances are you capable of holding?