NewZed

Actually that last instruction isn't much good of the drum doesn't turn. Peel the rubber boot off the backing plate.

Lots of other good stuff in the chapter.

Look at the other half.

Page 109 in the Rebuild book describes examining lash pad wipe pattern. Not much there except a captioned picture but it's there.

Try to visualize this... then try to answer your question. Can't be done.

Ya gotta turn this wheel to loosen the shoes and hope they haven't rusted/bonded to the drums. Page 12 and 13 - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1976/BR.pdf

There's a test procedure in the FSM. Tells where to apply voltage and what to look for after. Pages 19 and 22. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/260z/1974/EE%20Engine%20Electrical.pdf

Interesting stuff, but outside the design principles. The system is under pressure all of the time that way, and the clutch will move toward disengagement as the fluid heats and expands, and away as it cools. Could also be susceptible to losing adjustment over time if one of the seals leaks slightly. Actually, I think that my moving disengagement point is probably due to slight leakage of the primary seal in the MC. Internal slippage. Also, your method makes the fluid in the reservoir irrelevant. It never gets in to the line or the slave. Probably stays nice and clean though. Anyway, sounds like you know what's happening. I'd use a bottomed out slave piston and adjustable slave cylinder rod if I wanted to have the TO bearing pressing on the clutch fingers. It lets the hydraulics do their intended thing and would be more stable in use and over time. Easier to adjust also, and allows maximum throw from the pedal.

The hydraulic is self-adjusting, resetting "zero" start point each time the pedal comes up. With the pedal up you can push the slave rod back in to the cylinder by hand, pushing fluid back in to the reservoir. Your adjustments at the pedal would preload a mechanical system though. So you didn't have 6.6 mm of activation at the start, you lost 6.6 mm on the other end, after your pedal adjustment. I assumed (or maybe saw somewhere, can't find it) that Duragg used a mechanical means to preload his clutch. You'd have to have the slave bottomed out and an adjustable rod at the slave and extend it out to preload the fingers. Forgot to say that if you do push the master cylinder rod too far out and piston too far in that you can block the return hole and lock the hydraulics. Then when they heat up they'll push out a little farther. Uncontrolled. It happens in brake cylinders. I've always felt that my clutch is kind of inconsistent in engagement point and wondered if it was the hydraulics. Considering how the seals can blow I'd think that somebody would have designed a mechanical system, for racing or just general simplification. You could probably design a cable pull.

I have an engine sitting in the garage with distributor out, all stock parts, probably 150,000 original miles, and I can reach in and grab the tang that drives the distributor with a pair of pliers to give it a twist. I get ~ 1 degree of play if I don't let it move up and down. It has about 1.5 mm of play up and down, and twists about 1.5 degrees on the gear face as it moves. No noticeable bushing/bearing play. Surprisingly tight considering the mileage and condition of the rest of the engine. A point of reference for you.

Try the tests here - http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/1141.pdf The Pertronix modules are an old design without the protective power-cut features of newer electronic modules. If you left the key On for too long you might have overheated it. A stray spark will damage even the newer modules.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/35-nissan-v6-forum/ Your 85 has a VG30ET. Your 77 is an S30. Your 85 is also a 300ZX, not a 280Z.

Then intercooler only removes heat produced when the turbo pressurizes the system. Otherwise there's no heat to remove, it's at equilibrium. ambient to ambient.. All of your measurements at low or no load (no boost), and with the throttle closed are the same that anybody with an NA engine would see. At zero boost there is no way for the temperature sensor to get hotter than the surrounding metal. The energy just isn't there. It's phyicsally impossible (I left that S there on purpose). So the turbo has little to do with what you're seeing. When you close the throttle but don't disengage the engine from the drivetrain, you might be pulling hot gases from the crankcase in to the intake manifold. There's no air flow to purge them and the pistons are moving faster, compared to idle. One possibility. It might be telling you somersetting about your PCV system, or condition of your rings, but probably has little to do with much. 215 degrees is a pretty weak skyrocket.

Open up the PD chapters and take a look - http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-300zx-factory-service-manuals.html

Do you have power to the injectors? Have you tried starting with starter fluid? Is the engine flooding with fuel and the wait time is for things to dry out (pull a spark plug and see if it's wet or dry), or is it not starting because it's too dry. You were on the right track, confirming spark and fuel pressure. Now just figure out if the spark is strong enough, and if the injectors are opening when they should. You have to get under the hood with a meter, and a few other tools.

Amusing. Curse words, watch the sound. short crash at 12:40 but lots of D-baggery along the way. Ends appropriately.

Single coil or wasted spark?

Did you get propeller shaft u-joints, or half-shaft u-joints? They're different. Post the MOOG part number,

It's a vent. In a low pressure area to pull air from the cabin. The badge pops off and you'll see the hole.

I just browsed through that section and have to admit it's not very clear. I'd guess that "air pipe" means throttle body port, based on the diagram and port locations. So, even based on your picture, the EGR and vacuum advance lines shouldn't change at all with throttle body. They're connected to the TVV. The canister has it's own ported vacuum line. Called "vacuum signal line' in the second drawing. So it looks like you could have a T off of the MSA port, with one hose going to the top port of the TVV, and the other going to the cap on the canister. Usually the cap is labeled, and the vaccum line is a small one. You should check your old throttle body though to see why there are three ports. It may be that they all actuate at different times which would mean you won't be able to match it exactly with the MSA TB. You can usually see the ports inside the TB, by the blade, Nissan really regressed in 1982, in FSM quality.

Get in to the FSM and figure out which hoses need ported vacuum, which need full time vacuum, and which need switched vacuum. Then figure out where to get those vacuum sources, using tees off of the MSA TB, or making new holes. Not sure what you mean by "vapor valve", maybe the charcoal canister purge line?, but there are no vacuum hoses that should ever pull raw fuel. Could be that you've confused your hoses and you're actually looking at the FPR vacuum hose, and your FPR is damaged and leaking fuel. At the least, figure out the right names for what you're looking at.

Your comment about the sensor location was buried, and in parens. Missed it. Follow the wires. You should really do the conversion work, if you want more responses. Most of the forum members work in Farenheit. (1.8 x Celsius) + 32 = Farenheit, for anyone who wants to do the math.

Where's the sensor and how is it mounted? You might be measuring heat transferred from metal at low air flow.

Congratulations. You're ahead by -10 days.

You won't see a tiny voltage drop from low current flow unless you have a good meter. Try measuring where the power should be going when you turn the key. The starter solenoid, when you turn the key to Start.