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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    It will be stronger than the R180. Good that you got all of the parts. Go down to March 5, 2014 on this page and you'll find one potential issue, if using the stock control arms. Not enough room, binding half-shaft. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670
  2. NewZed
    It's been a year and 4 months. Most say that new OEM rocker arms don't exist anymore, unless you found some old stock. Many people report ruined cams also, so your finding that only the rocker arms are bad is odd. You haven't really described the problem either, just "rocker arm wear". Need details. Is it visible, or is it supposed from valve lash change? How is your mechanic going to "find" a remedy? Different arms, different oil?
  3. NewZed
    Take the cap off the distributor and look at what happens when the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. The pickup wires flex a little bit and might be touching something or losing contact. Your mechanic should have suggested this.
  4. NewZed
    Stick with the stock R180 open, and the skinny tires, and do lots of one-wheel smoke shows. That way you'll be off the street as quickly as possible.
  5. NewZed
    Sorry. I got misdirected. The method of running a hose from the nipple back up and in to the reservoir should work. The key for doing it on the car I think is to get a full stroke of the pistons and/or have the cylinder oriented so that the internal bleed hole is at the top where the gas bubbles are. If I was going to try it on the car, I'd jack the front end up so the front of the MC is higher than the back. Get that bubble up by the bleed hole so it can get pushed out.
  6. NewZed
    I damaged a GM HEI module doing this. Forgot to put two plug wires back on and actually ran the engine for a few seconds. Then it wouldn't start after I put the wires back on even though I had spark, weak and yellow. It would start and run with starter fluid but that may have been because the engine was warm. I think it may have been starting from detonation then the higher voltage once the key was off Start let it keep running. Anyway, your actual ignition transistor is inside the Crane box so that might be your problem. I've never seen a manufacturer's warning about disconnected spark plug wires. Makes my past problem source more probable. If you're experimentally minded, I've seen that the GM HEI module will trigger from a variety of sources. They use it as an ignitor with the 0 and 5 signal from the turbo computers. It might trigger from the optical signal of your distributor. Not multi-spark but still high energy.
  7. NewZed
    Actually Miles is probably right. With air in the master cylinder you could have one side flow well and the other not, because you're unable to build pressure. Still shows an imbalance in the two sides but once all of the air is out it may not matter much. You probably still have a leak but you should be able to build some pressure.
  8. NewZed
    Seems like you're getting distracted and not really finishing the individual tasks. Confirm that master cylinder is not leaking in to the booster, confirm that wheel cylinder is not clogged, confirm that line to wheel cylinder will flow freely, etc. You still don't know where that fluid went, and you've shown that the hard line will drip, just like the bleed valve. Not really any new knowledge.
  9. NewZed
    Wouldn't a new factory engine have a painted block? Looks like a rebuilt engine with a new head.
  10. NewZed
    Even easier, the back of the master cylinder will be wet if it's leaking. Pull it forward and stick your finger in there. Sometimes the fluid will leak down the front of the booster also, from the mounting surface.
  11. NewZed
    Start a new thread with "SU Carb Problems" in the title and you'll get more interest. There are tens or hundreds of "L28 won't run" problems posted every year. People don't even look any more.
  12. NewZed
    So you're building a drag race car? You haven't said anything about engine management or or transmission or how often you'll race or what your budget is. Those would help narrow things down. As you said, the options are many. Just curious, which companies sell the engines with the "junk" parts?
  13. NewZed
    If you remove the booster be careful of leaking fluid. I still have marks on my paint from a few drops I didn't see fall.
  14. NewZed
    So the problem now is identical to the problem before all of the new stuff? And the carb "cleaning"? Have you tuned the carburetors? Have you spent any time in the FMS's Fuel System chapter? Just trying to establish a better state-of-the-situation.
  15. NewZed
    260Z's have their own special battery drain when converting to the internally regulated alternator. It's out there on the internet somewhere. 280Z's can have a problem also but it's from a different source. I think that both are relay-related though. Always powered after the rewire. If you hear a relay click when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, you have that problem.
  16. NewZed
    Speed bleeders on the rears will let you push a lot of fluid through the lines quickly. Don't give the small bubbles time to settle in to new crevices, and purge residual fluid.
  17. NewZed
    Looks like Toyota uses an extra switched power wire at the alternator. Not sure why but it's there. Easy enough to add on. Can't remember if the S wire on a Z is switched or constant so be careful with the diagram. Might add a battery drain. L and S should be obvious, IG is the new one. http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html
  18. NewZed
    How do you get the bolts back in and the pickup reinstalled? Tiny hands? Seems like good advice, just wondering.
  19. NewZed
    Not trying to ruin a sale but you can buy surprisingly long lengths of prefitted brake line at most auto parts stores. No need for flaring tools or sourcing line and fittings. Just use a piece of string or wire to get the length, and either know the fitting size or take an old one with you. New sealing surfaces and clean line. Then, the quality of the bends depends on how much time you have and how artistic you are.
  20. NewZed
    Seems like 9 should be fairly easy since the potential is well in to the 7's. Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 2400 pounds and HP of 1000 is7.80 seconds and MPH of 173.29 MPH.
  21. NewZed
    There are several areas where wires get stretched and moved and can chafe. The console harness, and the heater control panel, for example. Both easier to remove than the dash. Almost better to get a short and have to fix it than have one of those lights that goes on and off randomly. Crap, I have to fix it, wait, it's working now.
  22. NewZed
    Seems like it should be doable - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100127-do-i-have-to-hoist-my-engine-to-replace-oil-pan-gasket/?do=findComment&comment=938907 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81528-replacing-piston-rings-with-the-engine-in-the-vehicle-l-series-faq/
  23. NewZed
    The guys that build engines on this forum say that the stock L28E intake doesn't even flow very well on the 2.8L engine it comes on. You're talking about a head with smaller valves (the MN47 is not the same as the L28 N47) , and its intake manifold, on an engine that is 30% larger than the engine it was designed for (3.1 vs. 2.4). Seems likely that it will be choked. It will probably bolt up fine but be down on potential power. And the CR might be high depending on the pistons you use. ~13.2 with flat-tops, ~10 with dished. Apparently the MN47 chamber's are about 39 cc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43671-n47-head-l28/ Just more stuff to think about. You can make anything work, but "good" is subjective. Good luck.
  24. NewZed
    Seems like the simplest, cheapest, temporary engine would be the complete L24E package, with the LD crank, if just getting the crank installed is the goal. And new pistons, of course. Small valves, small intake, very high CR, and tuning to keep the engine from blowing up, but the crank would be in there. If that's the goal of the temporary package. Or just install the L24E complete and drive it while you get the other parts together. From my reading, the "stroker" engine doesn't have the greatest HP/$ ratio. I haven't built one, I just read a lot.
  25. NewZed
    Make up your mind, was it me or is it you? I took the inflammatory part out, and left the funny stuff. No need to be so sensitive. You left yourself open. What you wanted, ARP studs, is in the thread I linked - "just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger.". The answer to your question is indirectly on the ARP web site - they don't list one.
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