NewZed

Search "Vogtland".

Since you have signal, but no sync., and you're using the VR circuit, noise seems likely. The pots are designed to tune it out, to a certain extent. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vradjust.htm

Tony D added a bunch to his post. This could be a red herring, wild goose chase. If you lost drive because the tang slipped out of the notch you should see spin/wear marks on the end of the shaft from where it slipped out. How do the ends of the tang and notch look?

This picture look likes 5mm of possible difference. Looking at your 5mm to notch marking. I don't see a notch in the eBay picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-240Z-280ZX-Rare-Turbo-L28-L24-Oil-Pump-Gear-Drive-OEM-/151384028550?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233f30f586&vxp=mtr

Just an observation from an impartial observer, but you haven't really even described a problem, besides "get nothing" and "signal that doesn't stay sync'ed", and primary and secondary could mean many things. And your no punctuation writing style isn't going to draw many people in.

Added an edit to clarify my earlier clarification/summary (#28). Still seems like there's another design iteration that could give people everything they want. Interesting subject.

Don't the metal rings around the cylinders and the copper rings around the oil passages crush to fit? And work-harden when they do? Doesn't seem like it would work.

AZC and Silvermine are using the same basic design, that could allow the control arm structure to buckle and shorten under certain conditions of assembly and usage. T3 is using a design similar the tube80z design, but without the independent toe adjustment, basically more adjustable than stock, bit not as adjustable as tube80z's. Edit - actually, I think that the T3 design is essentially the same as tube80z's. Maybe even more rigid. Anyway, at least the pictures are all in one spot. From previous posts in this thread, plus T3's site: http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/suspension/rear-lower-control-arm-cnc-for-240z-260z-280z https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z Post #76 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62776-yet-another-rear-control-arm-design/page-4?hl=%20rear%20%20control Just to summarize, for clarity.

Checked/adjusted valve lash lately? Inspect the cam lobes carefully also, especially if you find one with excessive lash.

Bad hydraulic lash adjuster? May or may not be applicable to your engine. You should list the actual numbers for your cylinder pressure test, per cylinder, and also tell which cylinder has the darker plug. You might find some things correlating to one cylinder.

Maybe the chart is just listing the ratios the cars came with, nothing to do with with the differential component. Your logic seems reasonable. The 660 probably has the different size ring gear bolts. 650 seems more likely to be a bolt-in for the 3..9 280ZX diff. The holes will match the bolts. The years listed on the 660 product are later, in the 12mm bolt time-frame. That's a nice find on the chart, thanks for sharing that. Now if I can just figure out to save a Japanese PDF file...

Low fuel pressure comes to mind.

I think that he's saying that if there was no oil at the cam then there was probably no oil at the bearings. No oil > no lubrication > metal to metal contact > damage. Your first instinct was right - (I know, should have towed it). You saved $75 and will probably spend hundreds. For as cheap as it is, oil is probably the most important thing in an engine.

Thanks...

The ECU won't reflash. There's no EPROM chip.

Edited. Too mean. Had to add one more link. Probably a sign of the end... About 1/4 page down. Says he drove it down from Tokyo. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/04/nagoya-exciting-car-showdown-2012-pt-1/

Lithium ion batteries - http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/whitezombie.php

Sounds like you actually have a "no run" issue, not a "no start". The older cars have two wires to the ballast, one to bypass the resistor for starting and the other to pass through the resistor for running. You might have just the Starting wire connected. Attached a 1976 picture to illustrate.

Here's a 185/50/16 on 16x7.5, with technique. And they report fail fail ... not even stretch. Seriously though, it's surprising what will come up on Google if you just search the size, like 185/50/16 on 16x8.

Pressure comes from flow restriction. The other way to lose pressure is for the pump to be moving oil just fine, but the oil to be flowing too freely through some area it shouldn't. A crack or a hole or a misplaced bearing.

Pretty sure that nothing is worth swapping from the 300 to the 240, except the R200. The 240 probably has an R180. You'll need more parts to do the swap, it's not really a throw-in job. You didn't post any pictures so it's not clear that the brown you mentioned is even on a car.

Thanks for the pictures, those are good enough. There are still well-established name brand springs being sold out there that don't do what they're advertised to do, or give odd results, like the Eibach progressive rate springs. People are still buying those, installing them, then asking why the front is higher than the back. Always good to confirm that products do what the manufacturer thinks they're going to do, in my opinion anyway. Mistakes get made.

Just looking for the real world number. The ad copy says 1.25", on brandcarparts. Great to have another option.

Any idea if the springs do much lowering? Your picture looks kind of stockish in height.

You're asking for suggestions and a little help but no pictures or descriptions. And the 1991 300ZX had short nose differentials. Problem? Photobucket is terrible for actually looking at pictures. Might be fine for storing, but viewing takes forever.