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Showing results for tags '240Z'.
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Hello, I'm Agita. I just bought a 240z that is in decently bad shape. It's rusted pretty bad in places and the driver's side panels will need to be replaced. The hood is damaged where some idiot used a crowbar to open it..... not kidding.....what a jerk. Most all of the interior plastic panels are in really good shape, one or two have small cracks that I'm not entirely worried about. One has two holes cut out for speakers..... sadly. I bought a whole driver's door in good condition minus a rust spot the size and shape of a quarter. Much better than the giant dent in mine. I also picked up a cowl that was without damage to replace the damaged one where the idiot with the crowbar used it as a brace to pop the hood. It's a 1970 240z. HLS30-02603 made in March of 1970 I've lurked here for a long while but now I'm gonna jump in. Lots of pics. Please feel free to comment or point anything out. I'm learning and researching as much as I can but I'm far from knowledgeable. I have lots of pictures and am willing to take a pic of anything you would like to see in specific. OK, I don't really know where to start, but the first thing would be the driver's floorboard. I've read about it a lot, and payed close attention to tutorials and all forms of processes listed here and elsewhere. ( feel free to link suggestions, I love reading about it ) I'm reasonably certain that I can replace the floorboards without problem, but I'm concerned about where the seatbelt bolts in near the door. The entire panel twisted out when I went to take the seatbelt off. (see the pic below) Is it okay to just weld in a strong panel then make a place for the seatbelt? Lots more, but lets start there and see what you guys think.
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From the album: 73 240z
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I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
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Looking for 240Z Strut mounting insulators (qty. 2) or 280Z fronts would work. email me: jminer84@gmail.com
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In need of a early (25 spline) rear outer stub axle, just one, don't need the companion flange. OR could be talked into a full set of 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. I'm in Columbus, OH, but willing to pay shipping. Thanks! Ben
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Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
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Like the title states, I'm looking for a clean 4 BBL intake. I prefer the first two--Bob Sharp Racing or Arizona Z Car. If it's a Cartech adapter it must be extremely clean. The only reason I'm posting this is because Arizona Z Car is currently out of stock for the next couple weeks. PM me or let me know on the thread with price, details, etc. Thanks -
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Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
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I am looking for a 72-73 center console, Complete if possible. As good as shape as possible.
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Hello HybridZ, I am in search of a Datsun 240z/260z/1975 280z in the Orange County, CA area. I prefer a rolling chassis, but a car with a motor is okay. I will be swapping in a Weber powered L28 race motor, so I would rather not spend money on a motor I will not use. I will be upgrading to an R200 differential so i wont need a diff or half shafts either. Rust is okay to a certain extent... Nothing too major. Missing interior is okay, as long as the dashboard with gauges are there. Id prefer not to spend more than $2000 for a roller, but I may be willing to spend more for a roller with zero rust and/or upgraded suspension components. I AM willing to purchase an out of state car, provided there are plenty of photos showing its condition and it isnt too far to drive and pick it up. Ill consider shipping a car here to SoCal. Thank you all for your time -Never2BeFinished I can also be reached by cell phone, (949) 322-72zero3. Texting preferred due to sporadic schedule, but I can always return calls later. -
From the album: After sandblasting
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From the album: After sandblasting
Some pictures after sandblasting the 240z -
I'm looking for a good condition R180 to replace my worn out , clunking one on my 240z. Anybody have a spare one?
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Soooooooooo I have always wondered what a 1970 dodge daytona wing would look like on my 280z. Obviously if I were to do it I would have to "shrink" it down. Anyone else think I should waste my money on trying this? If I do ill attach photos at a later date.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to swap an l28et into my '73. Would like to buy as complete as possible, Post or PM what you have w/ details, price etc. Located in central California willing to drive as far as San Diego + Sacramento for pickup. Thanks
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From the album: 73 240z
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I'm pretty new to this forum but I wanted to start a build log for my car so i can document my progress and hopefully get some tips along the way so i can truly get the most out of my car. A little backstory on the car and the swap is that there are few people in New Jersey who really know how to take care of these cars and tune the Su's properly and webers also proved to be quite rare and i wanted something a bit more reliable. My car had been breaking down going lean, going rich, backfiring, all sorts of engine problems that i just didnt want to deal with so i thought id upgrade to fuel injection...being 18 and having this as my only car i need something that i can get around in and wont die on me. So im starting with my 240, taking the l24 out along with the terrible wiring the previous owner did, and putting all new wiring in along with an l28e thats going to be spruced up a bit in the coming weeks, once everything is running and well, im going to ditch the ecu, put in megasquirt dial it in, then turbo the engine, i already have a turbo manifold, im working on getting a turbo dizzy, and oil pan. Today is day 1, the car is covered in snow, and the l28 just arrived itll probably be a few weeks before any work can be done because the swap will be done in my mechanics backyard My goal is to have the engine bay look clean maybe not a show stopped but something i can be proud of, horsepower goal is 275 at the wheels Thats what im hoping to get the car to look like any advice before i start? ( ive read the forums hundreds of times and will probably still read them a hundred more) - nzarano
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From the album: 73 240z
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I came into possession of an actual NOS Nissan OEM 280Z hood. It had sat in a storage shed in Pueblo, Colorado since 1986 and is still in the battleship gray primer with the Nissan part code and sticker on the underside. It does not appear to have ever been placed on a car. I'm considering putting it on my orange 240Z. I would paint the vents a satin black to match the front and rear spoiler on the car. My car is undergoing a turbo motor swap. With respect to this 280Z hood, I'm not sure if the vents are actually functional as I've never owned a 280Z. My other option is to try and fix my 240Z hood which just isn't working out. It's a bit rusty, has been worked on, and I think even with 20 hours of metal work will not be 1/2 the hood this OEM one is. I'm concerned about originality, but since I already swapped the motor, transmission, and differential - I kinda think that ship has sailed. Does any one have a picture of a 240Z (orange) with the 280Z hood for comparison? Any opinions: looks, functionality, etc.?
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I was trying to get rid of a flat spot on my tire, didn't really work too well but fun nonetheless. http://youtu.be/KtUypre2M8I
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Hey guys! This is my first post on the fourm, but i have been looking through posts for about 2 months now. I am a 16 year old high school student who LOVES the datsun Z cars. It has been an intrest, basically an obsession, to build one of my own. So i guess i just have a bunch of questions that i would love to have answered. Thanks! Alighty guys, so i have very little knowledge in mechanics but i have tons of family friends who just so happen to own their own shops so i dont think actually doing mechanical things would be a huge problem. So basically what i want to do is build a 240, 260, or 280Z. I currently drive a 2007 nissan maxima and i love it but i really want a manual transmission and i love the way the Zs look. so here are my questions and inquiries. should i go with an already partially restored or restored z and just fork out the extra cash? or go with one i can restore myself. should i stay with the stock engine or swap to a 350z, i forget the numbers and letters, motor or even a L28et? of corse i want to go fast hahaha i dont want a track moster or a show car. i want something nice looking and fast(16 year old fast) that wont berak the bank in upgrading parts what will i need? i guess my thing is i want to know what is the best platform for building a Z and i want to know virtually everything to build my Z thanks guys, i know my questions are very vague but it's hard to describe exactly what i want on here thanks again guys!
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So, first time poster and first time builder. I have dragged cars out of fields and rebuilt them and built motorcycles from a pile parts from some guys lost ambition. I say that to indicate the scope of the project I can tackle if so motivated. I have had a sports car in my life since my 20s and that was my only z. Two years ago I gave up my z4 to the ex and now it's time to get a sports car again. I have pretty much narrowed it down to a 240z. As I want to put my own mark on the project and not do a factory perfect restoration, it would seem a shame to harm one of the few 70s out there. I have $10k to blow on this endeavor and want to open the doors to some input. I keep my eyes out for project cars where people have lost interest and have missed out on a couple. While I would love to do an rb25 swap, I don't think its in the budget to do it right. So that's the question, $10k setup, most work could be done in house although any major overhauls would probably be shopped out, the paint would not be a DIY, what are your all thoughts?
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Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
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Hey guys! This is going to be my thread for my 5.0 swap in my 1977 280z. A little history....I picked up a 77 280z from a guy in Texas. Its not a bad car for the price. I had this crazy idea to drop a 5.0 in it, since I've got a 1995 mustang GT as a DD. I bought a 1995 GTS with a full Cobra motor in it from an auction website and parted out the rest of the car. My dad had a bunch of Z's back in the day, and I wanted to build something he would enjoy as much as I would. Please if you like any of this, let me know! I would love to keep posting some pics and hopefully get some help and help out some other guys in the same boat. Now...lets get started
