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Showing results for tags '240z'.
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Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
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ok I am going to blow through a lot of questions here I have a 1971 240Z i upgraded the alternator and now my dash and running lights stay on anytime the key is on what could cause this? Second last monday i swaped a 79 280 f54block n42 head with the biggest cam you can get without going to larger valve springs i bought the motor this way i put my brand new ztherapy 4 screw su carbs on it with the msa 6to1 header and the orignal bosch distributer and e12-80 module but it wont run right it backfires through the carbs when you rev it I did get it to run the other day long enough to set the valves at .012 exhaust .010 intake but Im not sure the coil is right it has a pretronix 3.0 ohm coil from the kit I put on the 240 motor when i got it i also tried a crane cam lx91 and it got worse so I switched back to the pretronix my plug gap is .042 i just need a starting place iv done everything i know how to do to no avail. what am I not seeing?
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Hi all, This is my first post on this forum. I have a 1970 240z that I am currently working. I am picking up an L28et as well as a 5 speed transmission from a 1983 280zx. I am looking to get a good amount of power out of this engine (around 450+ whp). After hours of research I have come up with the following L28et P90 head- port and polish dewebbed intake manifold JE forged flat top pistons (raise compression to 8:5:1) Injector 550cc Holset hx35 turbo Fuel rail? Depends what's out there Stand alone megasquirt ecu Differential 3.9 or 4.11 r180 3" exhaust I know I am missing a few things but I just wanted to get your guys input. I am new to these engines so please bear with me. Thanks.
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Background: Long story short, wasn't interested in cars until I got screwed over by a dealership replacing an alternator shortly after moving to Maine from Ireland. Found a '84 300zx for $300 on Craig's and proceeded to teach myself the dark arts of car wrenching, and consequently fell in love with Z cars/Group B/Rally/Hillclimbing Fast forward a few years, I picked up a 1970 240z with some track prep work done and it begun: Cars 1970 240z: 2.6l engine Mikuni ph44 carbs Battery relocate. MSD Ignition Rota Grids with Toyo Proxxes Put cosmetic (Flat Black paint), small amount of mechanical work (New clutch, relined tank, new Holley Red FP, FR, SS lines) and new shoes on the car to prep for the New England Hillclimb Association 2015 season. Work and life got the better of me and only got to one race. Car performed pretty good and the driver got a lot better over the weekend. Couple of issues raised their heads over the race weekend: Keeps popping out of second gear. Power-band not right. 1st, 2nd great to 6500rpm, go to 3rd and bogs down bad. Last two races, kept stalling in low rpm and overheating - I believe this was from running out of fuel and picking up something in the carb. Need a full roll cage if I keep racing it; wife and kids agree. The last bullet is how I happened upon the 280z. After pricing a cage and always being on the hunt for a deal I came across this 1976 280z in a wrecker yard in MA. Something caught my eye on the Craig's post - I had been lurking on Hybridz for many years and thought had seen the chassis before. Upon viewing it was indeed one of RB240zDET's builds. I was able to get the car and good price and figure the project would be worth my time. 1976 280z - as it stands: Tubular frame chassis. R33 rear subframe and R230 diff. RB20DET engine mated to GTS trans. Lexus SC400 front end. Probably a bunch more I have yet to document. Link to PO frame build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102035-rbs-builds/ Link to RB20DET PO: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94498-just-a-few-pics-of-what-i-have-been-up-to/ Current Winter Plans: 1970 240z - Clutch fan delete./Install aluminum rad and dual fan setup. Find a 5-speed (Anyone got one?) More aggressive cam for hillclimb racing Carb rebuild New fuel cell and sender install. Go racing 1976 280z - Verify and finish engine wiring. Get engine to run or at least show some life. Pull said engine and trans. While deciding if to keep engine or not; fix some weld, blast frame and prime. Select engine. (Open to offers on the RB20DET if anyone is interested.) Build monster. Go racing. Garage - 100A Subpanel 5kw Heater. 40A circuit 208v for welder. A few 20A 110v circuits. Insulation Sheetrock Paint Some sort of shelving system for organization. Any comments, suggestions, critique is welcome. Seán
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My goal is to swap a 2007-2008 VQ35HR and 5 speed automatic transmission into my 1974 Datsun 260z. I had a 2003 350z with the 5 speed auto and enjoyed it more than any vehicle I've ever had. I still have a set of Works Bell Electronic Paddle Shifters for it that never were installed. I plan to retrofit them to the 260z steering column.
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Ok, so I can see the finish line from a very long journey, that is my 1973 RB 240Z. I have a CLSD from an 1989 Z31T with the CV shafts. I'm trying to get the CV axles bolted into my car but I have been finding out that these adapter options for the CV adapter conversion are PRICEY!!! Especially, when you factor in the price for having to get the 27 spline axles from a 280Z (getting harder to find) and the Modern-Motorsport option. Plus, I don't know why NOBODY developed and adapter for the stock 240Z 25 spline stub axles to just bolt to the Z31T CV axles!!!! People keep saying that it was for strength but I don't buy that. They are not much thicker, and you've only gained just 2 splines. For a stock RB, I'm sure the 25 spline will hold up just fine. I'm just trying to get my CV's under the car. Looking for the welded plate to stock flange option so that I can get my car back on the road. I've seen pictures on Google from what Modern-Motorsports "used" to do, but I need better specs for the plate(steal). I found specs for a plate for the 280ZXT CV's, but I cant figure out why no one has done this for the Z31T CV axles. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place... Anyone have any answers??? Thanks for any and all help you give.
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I'd like to purchase the three piece lower valance of a 240Z. I don't care about paint, but I do care that they are in good physical condition. Thank you.
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Hey guys, I recently bought a 240z and it ended up having more rust than I originally thought, thus begins my new winter project. Pulling her home with my 1987 2WD Toyota Pickup. That was a long haul between northeast of Sacramento and Southern California. The truck performed well though! The car sat for a while and the engine internals have rusted. The overview plan is to pull the engine, fix the front half of the car's rust problems, swap the SUs from the L24 to my rebuilt L28, install the engine, and drive it while fixing other things (interior). Some hood damage. Hopefully I can bump these out. Starting to inspect for rust on the passenger side frame rail/firewall interface. It's definitely in need of some work. Inside engine bay rail. Engine removal In preparation for cutting into frame rails I dropped the front suspension to remove as much stressed from the rails as possible. Stand I welded up to support car from the transmission mounts. I've made a little more progress -- started making patch panel templates and cutting metal from the battery tray area. It looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of metal around the battery tray area -- frame rail, battery tray inner fender, a piece of the firewall, and passenger side floor pan. Hopefully driver side isn't this bad.
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So i just got a 240z for my senior project and the internals of my stock flat top carbs are wrecked. I really dont have the funding for a new set of round top carbs right now so im desperately searching for some working flat tops or round tops! either works for me as long as i can get my z running. Let me know what you have!
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First post and thought I would start it off by saying Hi and introducing the '73 240z I picked up yesterday. I have lots of plans but I want to go through and make sure I neutralize any rust first. Seems to be very very minimal from what I have seen thus far. I hope to get more pictures up soon and possibly a multi year build log. Previously owned a '93 rx-7 heavily modded but after apex seal after apex seal, kids, house, I gave up on cars. Fast forward 10 years and I have something to play with again. Hope to make it a daily driven road car. When I say daily driven I mean weekend driver at most. I have a Rav 4 for my daily kid hauler. My 10 year old son is already looking forward to helping me wrench on this thing.
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Hello, About a year ago, someone broke into my Z and trashed/stole a lot of the interior. I have a long way to go, but right now I am hunting down an OEM wooden steering wheel. If any of your are selling one, and you're not asking an arm/leg for it, PM me please. Thank you, Idiot Pic for reference
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I'm looking for a 5-spd transmission from a 280z to put into my 240z. Where is the best place to find one (or do you have one for sale) ? I browsed through ebay and craigslist but didn't really find anything. Also noticed that neither MSA nor Whitehead carry them. Thank you!
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Hey all, looking for a used/new/spare aftermarket header (or perhaps full system?) for my L24. Not concerned with brand, just not rusted or broken. My stock exhaust is shot and it would make life easier to go aftermarket. Shipping to NC 28411 and I would like to use paypal. Pics and price to bstznut@hotmail.com Thank you!
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I'm working on a 72' 240z (production date 11/71). I'm looking for a decent set of brackets and rubber grommets for the fuel/brake headlines. Reply here or PM me, thanks.
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Hi Everyone! I'm new to the forum and looking to buy a 240z. However, I do not have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars. I've been reading and reading and it seems like when looking for a Z, the number one thing I keep reading is to avoid rust as much as possible. I found a 1973 240z for sale locally and wanted some advice on this car. It definitely has rust but I have no idea how much is repairable. I have about a $30k budget, but I'd like to spend about $5-8k for the car and then budget for a minor restoration (get it in good running condition, paint, wheels, and an interior clean up). I am not a mechanic in the least and would be relying on a local mechanic to do a majority of the work. Here is what the seller told me: I'm not in a hurry to get a Z and can afford to take my time to get the right one. I thank you in advance, any/all help is appreciated. ad: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/5132503075.html pics: http://imgur.com/a/5jFXg
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Hey guys, This is the journey of my 1974 Datsun 260z to where it currently stands and where it is headed. I hope you enjoy! This was the car when I first got it... It was a good running car that was fairly "clean" with the exception of some hidden rust. I drove the car like this for a couple of years before I really got the itch to modify it. To start things off, my carbs started leaking so I rebuilt the round top already on the car. The outcome: Nice new carbs and a sad looking engine bay. (Ignore the wheel in the background, we will get to those later...) With the production of the BC Racing coilovers, I decided it was time to pull the car apart for a few updates in the winter of 2014/2015. It would share a space with an old Austin Healey Mini for the winter. With it up on Jack stands, the intentions were to go through the bushings, suspension and address the rear brakes. Along the Way I also picked up a set of Wilwoods for the front which are still having brackets fabricated. I acquired a Silvermine rear disc brake conversion, BC Racing coilovers, & some Prothane Bushings and work began. With all of the parts acquired that I wanted/needed for the winter ahead, I came across a pretty rair set of wheels that I would snatch up: 15x9 3-Piece Revolution RFX's that the previous owner had painted the faces of a House of Kolors Green. At first, I hated the color of the wheels but they have since grown on me a bit. With everything ready for the winter project, I started tearing the car apart... [/url With all of the suspension pulled off and the struts sectioned, I started assembling the front coilovers. The shop I had weld them had some pretty ugly welds that I ended up having to grind down. I also wire-wheeled the knuckle assembly and painted it for a nice finished look. I also went on ahead and wire-wheeled and painted the brake dust shields while I was at it... Finished Products:
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Looking for the two knob rally clock with the oscillator (needed to make it run) Also looking for the following AMCO shift knobs 1) Leather wrapped with 4 speed shift map on top 2) Leather wrapped with Datsun logo on top 3) Wooden with Datsun logo on top
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I'm looking for the cheapest way to get a "good" (you know... not out of round and such) set of wheels. I figure a set of steelies would be my best bet. I have one already (the spare), so I only really need three but would prefer four. I also don't need tires, mine are very fresh. I have a "set" of 4 slotted mags. (Only 2 of them appear to be identical) Aesthetically, I think they're awesome. Mechanically, they kinda suck. One of them is out of round, so I'm using my one steely. I'd like them to match it. They're all the same right? A set of four that match each other is fine too. If anything will be a deal breaker here, it'll probably be shipping. I have no idea what it costs to ship three or four of these things. I'm in north Alabama. I'd be willing to drive a few hours to pick 'em up if I get that lucky. Thanks for viewing!
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I've had a few z's in the past and always fixed them up, made them run and look nice and had to eventually sell them due to random reasons. But now, I feel I've landed myself a keeper! Saw an add on Craigslist for a 71 shell and after a long wait period to hear from the seller we finally struck a deal and head out to pick it up in the middle of nowhere. To say the least, upon arrival the car had absolutely NOTHING in it. And by nothing I mean NOTHING. No mechanical, no brake or fuel lines, no interior no hatch, no windows ... heck, the owner had to Wire the suspension and instead of bolts ran steel wires in between holes (spindle, control arms, etc) just to get it in all fours, which made a huge of a difference when it came to load on to flat bed. While almost no bolts were even provided, To my surprise, the owner had a fair amount of the original parts in a small trailer ready to piece together and threw everything in for free!. The original hatch had miraculously somehow flown off when he previously transported the car home and thus far car's still hatch less. The following day while making a list of the missing parts and further inspection I came to realize the car is actually a 7/1970 car! ^O_O^ After settling down for a few days I found out the car was owned by a member here and got some cool pics and info about the cars history. Found that while the car was very rust free it's definitely had its fun and abuse at the track. Regardless, I got the empty shell for a good price and a positive open mind with hopes of giving this girl new life and a new future far far away from either junkyard and or smasher. I'll be posting some pics of my lady soon. For now, for sure I know I'll be running a 2JZ-GTE power plant & 6speed supra Trans with Z31 finned clsd/CV rear end. Pending the sale of my IS300 to fund the project. For now, let the parts search begin!
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From the album: ls swap
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From the album: ls swap
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Hey guys, not sure if there will be any interest but I want to post up my build here just so I can look back through it for whatever reason. I am starting with an almost completely rust free 240z I picked up for a decent price here in phoenix and have plans to daily it, more or less stance, and eventually make it a nice little track rat I won't feel bad about beating up on when I go road racing. Just recently sold my c5 Corvette after feeling bad about beating it up around the track and the high expenses of everything motor and trans wise so I found this and immediately knew I was going to have a blast driving it (outside of summer, it just got to 115 F here . Working outside yesterday in that was NOT fun. Bought the car a few weeks ago and it was running and driving, albeit it smokes a little which I think is because it is running very rich, and the radiator leaked so I couldn't drive it before buying, just hear it run. Body is in great shape with the exception of the roof which has some dents. Don't ask me how they got there I have no clue haha. Guessing it wasn't treated right as there is a trucker lady front license vanity thing, HUTCH written on the back, and mud flaps when I got it.. Here are the pics of where I first got it and then of me using my first AAA tow. I was amazed at how fast they got there to pick it up! Definitely hasn't been moved in a while, but that will change! First order of business was getting it running and making sure it wouldn't overheat in the brutal Arizona summers. I originally was going to get the original radiator fixed and save me some money. $75 to clean it and get it going so I figured sure why not, save myself some money. Got called back and apparently it would be another $125 to rod it out... so $200 into an old brass radiator when I can get a nice aluminum 3 core for $140. Easiest decision ever! decided now is a good time to put new hoses on as well and I found these gems... Totally rotted out and broken.. so time for a new replacement! Ordered those in along with a new thermostat and were ready to go!... or not. Temp gauge wasn't working so after checking all the wiring I found the gauge was bad and more than likely the sender too. So after trying to get it out unsuccessfully, sorry no pics of this, It was so badly gouged I needed a new lower thermostat housing and temp sender. Yay! Got those in and found a 280z gauge on craigslist and swapped out the front so it would fit behind the cluster like my original gauge and then now we have temp! Does not overheat! I will not mess with cars that overheat, after having severe issues with my big block cutlass and a number of other cars, it just isn't something I like to touch anymore. After this I decided it was time to get keys for the car as I was given none when I bought it. Looking online and at local auto part stores I was not able to find any door lock cylinders for a 240z that could get here in a reasonable amount of time and I was not about to spend bookoo bucks on a full complete set. SO I found that lock cylinders from a 80's 510 fit perfectly if you do very minor work to it. I can take pictures of this if anyone is interested in a cheap way to get new door locks. Onto the hatch lock... I was able to take it out and find a guy on craigslist who makes keys by feel alone! He had a few blanks and a file and in under 10mins made a perfect key for my trunk. What an art! I now have a car I can start and lock Here is a few more pictures of the car and a pic of the seat I will be putting in it out of my c5. Sparco Sprint V and I fit SNUG. Totally holds you in around corners. The old seats are roached and this will be perfect. I will be making a bracket soon to fit in in. I also took the rear bumper off and cut the ridiculously long muffler off! I've always loved the look of ZG flares and only ever had deep dish wheels on one other car and those only had around a 2 ish inch lip so this time I wanted much more. I had thought about getting diamond racing steelies and ZG flares but there are already so many of them and being as cheap as I am there had to be another way. I was able to find some Eagle 028's for $130 on craigslist off of a Cherokee and they had the dish I was craving! I was hoping they could just be redrilled to 4x4.5 but they already had so many bolt holes there was no room to drill. These are 15x10 with -44 offset (3.5 backspacing or 3.25 I forget exactly). They stick out quite a bit! I decided I am either going to spend a lot of money on rims that I like that fit or spend a little bit more on 5 lug swapping the car. I like the 5 lug look a little more anyways and this would let me inspect a the car a little more and keep me occupied over the summer. I have some of the extra wide ZG flares and 5 lug front hubs on order and they should be in soon! I will be taking pics of the rear soon. For the rear the drums were shot and I don't want to get old drums redrilled. After looking at the prices of how much new drums and pads were.. around $150. Thats assuming everything else was still good. Not going to happen. I decided a disc brake conversion was in order. I bought new rotors for $22 each, both front calipers off a 1985 Maxima for $15 and $6 for some 1/8 inch sheet metal. Just finished building the bracket and it looks... interesting.. but it will work and hold everything exactly where it needs to be. Only downside to this is I no longer have an E-Brake. Which to me is a plus because I would just pull it and try to do something stupid anyways.. Another forum member Jmai86 I believe did a coilover conversion using cheap ebay Emusa coils and that is the option I will be doing. They are on order and should be in soon and I can take pics of the conversion as well if anyone is interested. I can post pics of the disc brake conversion as well if anyone wants to convert the rear to disc for under $100 depending on how much the proportioning valve runs me I should be able to keep it right around there. Also just got my tires in! 225/50/15 khumo ecsta. $86 each from online and they look cool. Will post pics soon. Actually a very minor stretch, I wish I went to 205/50/15s to be honest. Cheaper tires like $50 each so thats a plus. Well I will go take a few more pictures of the conversion and the tires all mounted and interior stuff. Let me know if you guys want to see more or any questions and if there is interest I will post the build as it happens!
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Long time lurker turned builder. This thread will be slowly updated and the build may not be the most interesting, but I'd like to share/document. I've used this site for ideas and daydreams for about 8 years, so thanks everyone! My canvas is a 1970 series 1 240z with period modifications. Today was the first day I actually started work on the car, previously I was just trying to get the car running a little better by cleaning and rough tuning the carbs. I started by removing the previous owner's attempt at making a floor.... This left an even larger hole in the floor, perfect for cooling you down on a hot summer's day. The floors were cut out when I bought it and 2x3 frame tubing welded from the TC bracket to the rear rails. Unfortunately the rails were not even close to level, so that had to be fixed. One side almost leveled, but the floor and main frame rails are just the beginning... Time to save up a bit to buy an engine hoist.
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DELETE PLEASE Looking for New/Used/Good: - Good or new Luggage Riser Trim - Good or new wiring harness vinyl covering with the snaps that covers the wires on right side bottom of dash - Interior rivets, about 20-30 Thanks, Steve
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Anyone out there who can give me a performance review after installing SM needles to replace the stock needles in your SU carbs?? Would love to know if this was a good performance upgrade. Thanks! -Steve
