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Found 341 results

  1. Hello everyone on HybridZ! First a quick introduction, as this is my first post here on the forums. About a year ago, I bought a 1971 240Z which I bought from a gentleman Tecumseh, Oklahoma (right outside of Oklahoma City). I don't know much about the car's history aside from the fact that it sat at the gentleman's house since about 2008 because he thought that the engine was blown. Well long story short, the carbs were way out of tune and the distributor was turned about 180 degrees. Now a year or so later I haven't been able to get much work done, however I am in the process of stripping down the whole car, bagging and tagging everything. Being that the car will hopefully be completely stripped of all of its parts soon, I am looking into fixing the rust that exists on the car. The floor pans are long gone as well as the entirety of the passenger footwell all the way up under the cowl, just on the passenger side fortunately. The other hotspots per se are the driver's side a pillar which has a large rust hole, and a few other spots here and there. I am wanting to remove all of the rust that I can in order to ensure that my long-neglected Z doesn't have rust issues in the future. I plan on having it media blasted and epoxy primered (to prevent rust until I can have it painted), I was quoted about $1500 for the media blasting and primer work. I plan on replacing the floor pans, the frame rails, the rust hole on the a pillar, battery tray, etc. Now for my actual question, thank you for staying by the way. My main question is, in what order should I go upon repairing the rust and body flaws? Before or after the media blasting and primer? I've got a lot of work on my hands and I appreciate any advice that you've got. Thanks!
  2. Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
  3. Would someone be so kind as to look for me and tell me which side the wiring comes out of for the steering wheel, left side of it or right side of it, that would be super helpful. I'm having trouble getting the reach I need and I think I installed incorrectly.
  4. I've been wanting a Datsun for the last 20 years but it seems like there is never a right time to buy a 30+ year old car, especially with my intense love for motorcycles. Somehow I've finally managed to take the plunge and picked up a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Body work was "professionally-done" and was primered about a year ago. Interior is mostly complete and is the best i've seen since i started looking recently. A modified Ford 306 was swapped in with a 3-speed C4 transmission with a manual body. Suspension is stock. I'm going to post in the FORD V8 section in the next day or two as i am in completely over my head, lol. Here are some quick pictures, cause now "just-bought" thread is complete without them. Please forgive the blue tape, its been raining here in CA and the trim is in the garage at the moment.
  5. https://youtu.be/30nyGWq4mJQ Here is one of the runs. Got 3rd! Not bad on 6 year old dry rotted tires.
  6. I want to share with everyone my DIY intercooler sprayer. I went to find a windshield fluid reservoir from a junkyard but couldn't find anything that I liked. Then I ran into this: http://www.midwestbusparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_319&products_id=2046 My Streetsmart boost controller controls a relay that powers the built in pump and activates at certain boost pressure or RPM. I made a bracket from cutting up a straight price of aluminum from the Home Depot and bolted it to the factory battery tray and a factory hole in the fender.The size is awesome and it fits perfectly using factory mounting holes. I have two patio mister nozzles each attached to the front license plate mounting tabs. With my setup, if I put them higher than this, the water sprayed all over the hood/engine leaving spots every where. This initially created a syphon when first kicked on as well but I fixed that with a simple anti syphon/drip valve designed for backyard misters. Theses where hard to find ironically and only found them on Alibaba Express and I had to buy a 50 pack for $10 but only needed one. Windshield washer fluid has worked the best when it comes to minimizing water spots under the hood. Alcohol would be better but washer fluid is cheap. I haven't measured the benefits yet but when I do I'll post it, I can't imagine it's not effective. It drains quickly if I set the boost controller to activate it at lower psi, slower if set to higher pressures. Same would go for RPM triggering. This same system can work with a basic switch versus using an electronic controller if so desired.
  7. Been working on power steering. I decided on a 2004 Subaru WRX steering rack. I did some measuring to make sure everything would work. First I needed to figure out how much to cut off the steering rod. In steering, the pivots are the key to getting it to handle correctly. The stock pivots on the 240z steering rack is 616mm. The WRX rack is about 634mm. Some individuals use older Celica inner tie rods with the stock Subi outers to get everything to fit, but my rack is the "late" Subi rack. The threads are larger, M16 x 1.5, on the "late" Subi rack and the Celica rods didn't fit. I did some online research and found that 2000 Hyundai Sonata rods had the correct length and thread. The added bonus is that the inside of the Hyundai rods are vented and stepped to allow for more steering angle without shortening the outer tube of the steering rack. The step did have a lip that had to be ground down though. The step on the Hyundai rod is 5mm which adds 10mm on the travel on the steering. So, while I cut 18mm of the rod, it reduced the travel by 8mm. Stock 240z travel is 120mm, Subi is 132mm. Now the travel is around 124mm because the measurements are not perfect. So I added a little travel, hopefully it doesn't bind the steering knuckles. Here is a picture comparing the shortened Subi rod vs. the 240z rack. The final measurement was 576mm for the steering rod. Then I mounted the subframe on the engine to check clearances . In this swap, the engine mount perch has to be clearanced to make room for the angle of the Subi steering shaft. Also, the subframe has to be clearanced for the rotary valve and lines. Also checked the clearances with the A/C compressor mounted and to plan the pressure line. I cut the end of the steering shaft off to weld the Subi U-joint to the 240z steering shaft. I just shaved the weld and pulled the shaft out the Subi joint and the 240z shaft diameter was exactly the correct diameter to push inside and weld. I think it looks better that the stock Nissan weld, and that lasted 45 years. Hope I didn't cook the grease out of the joint when I welded it. There wasn't much smoke, so I think I am good. The stock Subaru rod ends ended up only having about 12mm of thread engagement when the alignment was roughed in and I wanted more. I did some research and figured out that 2003-2009 Mazda 6 tie rod ends are 7mm longer than the WRX ends. They are curve and have a left and right though. The taper on the stud seemed to match the original Datsun rods as well. Now I have plenty of thread engagement. I used compression fittings to move the hydraulic lines to where they would fit around the subframe. They worked out well and only one needed to be tightened up. They are 1/4 inch fittings. This is how much I had to cut out of the subframe. Metal was added to strengthen the subframe. If the engine mount becomes a problem, then I will gusset it. I used the RB25 (R33 non HICAS) pump, which is the same as most 240sx pumps. I built the pressure line out of -6AN Fragola PTFE hose with a M16 x 1.5 banjo metric adapter and the M14 x 1.5 power steering fitting for the rack. I did kinda skimp on the reservoir though and will switch it with an OEM style later. I used a 120 degree end on the rack side so it will clear the A/C pump later. Should have used a 150 degree though. The feel is great and feels about as a power steering car should. I dont have too many bumpy roads around here, so I cant fully test for bump steer. Havent felt any yet and we do have some railroad crossings that I have tried. There arent too many curvy roads either, but parking lots seem to be way more tolerable. The steering ratio seemed to stay about 2.7 and without a degree wheel to measure it, will stay "about". If there are any questions, let me know and I will ad them in the first post to help keep everything together.
  8. Hello, My name is Joey, and I am looking to start a dream project. Thing's I care about: -Little to NO rust -Title/Paperwork Thing's I don't care about: -Engine Please contact my gmail @joepez56 or via text @773-719-9133 (Please do not abuse my info, I only am giving it because I will resond faster to those)
  9. Zcardepot.com has the tool for removing those stubborn rear suspension spindle pins! Remove the spindle in minutes with no cursing with this tool. The spindle must be removed to replace the lower control arm bushings on 1970-78 Z cars. We offer this tool to purchase or as a rental to U.S. addresses. https://zcardepot.com/tools/spindle-pin-removal-tool-240z-260z-280z.html
  10. Hey, i was planning on getting Work Equip's 03 replicas for my Z -Cosmo Racing Coilovers (already installed) -15x8 et0 FRONT (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) -15x9 et0 REAR (wheels that i'm planning to buy, equip's 03) I'm planning to buy them and go with the 205/50/15 or the 225/50/15 to have some stretch and fit under my stock fenders, i'm currently on Cosmo Racing Coilover's for s30 that they can be dropped on 3'' Let me know your answers and if you have pics it would be better.
  11. I've had a few z's in the past and always fixed them up, made them run and look nice and had to eventually sell them due to random reasons. But now, I feel I've landed myself a keeper! Saw an add on Craigslist for a 71 shell and after a long wait period to hear from the seller we finally struck a deal and head out to pick it up in the middle of nowhere. To say the least, upon arrival the car had absolutely NOTHING in it. And by nothing I mean NOTHING. No mechanical, no brake or fuel lines, no interior no hatch, no windows ... heck, the owner had to Wire the suspension and instead of bolts ran steel wires in between holes (spindle, control arms, etc) just to get it in all fours, which made a huge of a difference when it came to load on to flat bed. While almost no bolts were even provided, To my surprise, the owner had a fair amount of the original parts in a small trailer ready to piece together and threw everything in for free!. The original hatch had miraculously somehow flown off when he previously transported the car home and thus far car's still hatch less. The following day while making a list of the missing parts and further inspection I came to realize the car is actually a 7/1970 car! ^O_O^ After settling down for a few days I found out the car was owned by a member here and got some cool pics and info about the cars history. Found that while the car was very rust free it's definitely had its fun and abuse at the track. Regardless, I got the empty shell for a good price and a positive open mind with hopes of giving this girl new life and a new future far far away from either junkyard and or smasher. I'll be posting some pics of my lady soon. For now, for sure I know I'll be running a 2JZ-GTE power plant & 6speed supra Trans with Z31 finned clsd/CV rear end. Pending the sale of my IS300 to fund the project. For now, let the parts search begin!
  12. Hi Guys Can anyone tell me the engine origin of the codes cast on L6 crankshafts. Is there a list I could look up? I bought a lot of stuff from Electromotive in the late 80' early 90' when they were clearing out their racing Z program. I have 15 cranks of various type including P30 and E31, even some with no cast marks.
  13. Hey guys, I have my 240z stripped all the way down and working on fixing some body issues before rebuild. I have replaced the roof skin as I had an aftermarket sunroof and wanted a slicktop. I'm wondering if I need to replace the entire section of the rear bumper/valance that goes all the way up to the hatch or just cut and patch the damaged portion. I don't have any experience with body work so not sure what the best approach would be. There is a very small ripple in the floor of the hatch and the very end of the frame rail has a little wow in it. Also looks like the right taillight frame is slightly bent. See pics. Thanks in advance! Cheers!
  14. I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack
  15. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  16. 240Z Parts OEM Driver Side Mirror - $ 40 drip rails - $30 70-78 Hood with openings- (local pickup only) Los Angeles $120 RB26 Parts New Unused SplitFire coils for RB26 - $275 RB26 Injector Drop resistor. New- $50 RB26 Injector Drop Resistor. Used $30 - Needs connector piece Auto Meter pro comp liquid filled boost gauge. New $30 RB26 CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) - Used- $50 RB26 Cam gears- oem used- $25 Intercooler 4" x 12 x 22 $80 RB26 OEM Intake Manifold- $75
  17. We are now stocking 5 different Datsun related top quality handmade leather key chains: 510 Datsun 240Z S130 Classic Z Please visit: www.datsun-garage.com Not advertised but do have: SSS 280Z For any questions/suggestions please PM me or feel free to email us at: info@datsun-garage.com Thanks, - Jeff
  18. I am selling the SU carbs that I just took off a running 72 Datsun with an L28 swap. These are in good shape...but definitely need to be cleaned and tuned up. Missing one of the keepers on the rear fuel line inlet (see pics). Asking $300 obo plus shipping for the whole set up. I also have air filters and another N36 intake for sale that would make a great package.
  19. Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  20. I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  21. I have been working on resurrecting my '72 240z w/ l28et conversion. In the past two years the car has come a long way. Due to lack of time and/or lack of expertise I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction on the following items remaining on my restoration to-do list: 1. Installation of interior control panel 2. Install of radio and speakers 3. Install of sound deadening 4. Fender roll or install of fender flares 5. Troubleshoot ignition/fuel issue (fairly certain it's a bad TPS) I'm in north/central jersey. If anyone has a trustworthy and reasonably priced mechanic that can do the work, please let me know.
  22. Hey everone, So i`ve finally gotten the chance to do a engine swap in my car and thought i would post up a build thread on here so show you what im up too and to get some advice from all you gurus.I`ve got a 1972 240z with a L24 with basically just a MSD ignition setup on it. But at work we had a pretty clean 7M-GTE sitting around so I picked it up for $200 and started my swap. The 7m had a blown hg so I decided to do a full rebuild as this will be my daily. An older picture of my car: *sorry for crappy cell phone pics What i currently have: when I first took it out of the box: after a little tear down/inspection and clean: the two mating faces: So far I have started by pulling it all apart and getting the head machined. Luckily it was only warped 0.005in needed a total of 0.012in to take all the pitting out of the block for the metal head gasket. Then I microsonicly cleaned all the parts and did a proper rebuild, with a little port on ex runners, polish on ex runners, and all new seals and gaskets all around. And of course some paint to make it look a little nicer. Picked up a freshly rebuilt R154 from a local mechanic: Had the flywheel machined: Started tearing down the block: As of right now I have a fully rebuilt head ready to be put on the block and the block was decked and honed. Im just in the middle of ordering some parts then I'll put it all together!! I litterally cannot wait to drive this car when its boosted. its a long awaited dream of mine. Any questions, opinions and comments are welcome!! just don't hate on the 7M to bad, I think since I am building it properly it will be good as a daily with 250-300bhp Chris
  23. SOLD! Hey there! For a faster response, PM me! For Sale: Used MSA 3-2 Header, Square Ports, No Smog Fittings for 70-76 240z-260z-280z, comes with 2.5" piping, and rubber mounting brackets already welded on and drilled, connected to a 2.5" Magnaflow muffler. Location: Southern CA, San Diego area. Local pickup only, sorry. Price: $150 Reason for selling: I purchased the system to use temporarily until my current headers were finished and installed, no longer need them now. I purchased the MSA 3-2 header from Motorsport!, installed it back in April of 2016, and took them off on the 7th of Sept. I put around 500 miles through them, you'll see in the pictures there is a small amount of rust but nothing serious (you'll have to clean them and get them powder coated). The welding was done by Richards Performance Muffler in Oceanside, CA. If you've never heard a Magnaflow exhaust, they're amazingly nice. Sounds like a V8/old race car. Link to MSA add: here If you have any questions please let me know. I switched from the Magnaflow to JDM twin pipes and let me tell you, the twin pipes do not compare! Reason for edit: SOLD
  24. 1972 Datsun 240Z Project SOLD!!!!!! SOLD!!! Awesome clean 240, would be a great cruiser with weekend racer potential, or a great base for a vintage race car. This was a 100% running car until I took the motor out of it. A complete L28/5sp is included, but the motor needs a rebuild. A good rebuilt running motor would make this into a fabulous car. CLEAN OREGON TITLE IN HAND! 240z shell with good paint, and minimum rust. Clean dog-legs, lower fenders, lower valence, no rust in the battery tray, hatch tray or in the hatch itself, very clean gas cap area, no dents or dings. Some paint chips, but overall the paint is 8/10. Engine: N42 L80 with N47 head. MSA 3-2 header. Rebello prepared twin SU carbs flow ported, tuned needles and jets set for autocross, Fuel tank acid cleaned and POR 15 sealed, Mallory HyFire 6 - digital ignition control, relocated light weight battery, dual electric cooling fans, electric fuel pump. Driveline: 5sp Transmission, Subaru R160 LSD diff, out of an SVX, CV axle conversion. Modern Motorsport rear disk brake conversion using 240sx rear calipers. Stainless brake lines front and rear, Hawk HP plus brake pads. Suspension: Adjustable coil overs, springs with 320 lbs front and 400lbs back, corner balanced, lowered 1.7", Tokico five position adjustable shocks, adjustable camber plates, adjustable caster control arms, rear caster and camber adjustable concentric bolts, Two front sway bars racing 7/8" and softer 3/4", front and rear shock tower braces. Body/Interior: 4 point welded roll bar installed, custom front to rear body stiffening frame rails, Recaro seats with 5 point racing harness. Clean mostly complete interior, capped dash, solid center console, good transmission tunnel upholstery, great condition headliner and sun visors. Momo steering wheel, aftermarket tach with programmable shift light. Working locks, Techno Toy Tuning tow hooks front and rear Front and rear 240z bumpers in good shape, ZG flares, Type 1 airdam, headlight covers. Lots more high resolution images in the gallery: https://imgur.com/a/srrYY Car is located in Portland Oregon.
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